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Posted: 10/4/2005 3:36:51 PM EDT
What finishing options are available for my metal parts exclusive of the folding stock?  Also, can the barrel with trunion, gas block and sight be finished in one piece.  What is done about the chrome lined barrel?

All comment accepted!!!
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 3:45:00 PM EDT
Sandblast, parkerize and then paint.  I like flat black Molyresin paint.  If you dont have the stuff to sandblast or park, just phospho it (with Jasco from Lowes or other phosphoric acid treatments) and then paint.  Of the mass marketed paints, Krylon and Duplicolor have the best solvent resistance.
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 6:26:59 PM EDT
Thanks.  I thought parkerizing was a end result finish.  Can I expect the paint to retard solvents such as gun cleaner fluids and gun oils?
Link Posted: 10/4/2005 7:46:41 PM EDT
Moly-Resin once applied properly is damn near impossible to penetrate.

I will say however that just spraying stuff down with Brake cleaner isn't your best bet.

Spray it down but also come back and scrub/wipe everything down with acetone, it's amazing the amount of trace grime and oil you'll pull off.

In fact it's not a bad idea to heat the parts up in the oven to about 200 before the final cleaning.
Link Posted: 10/5/2005 9:19:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/5/2005 9:21:43 AM EDT by Atreides]
Parkerizing can be avoided, especially on non-heated metal parts like a folding stock. They can be refinished using high grade automotive paint products.

If you are refinishing a sandblasted  piece, blow down the parts carefully with compressed air BEFORE applying any type of surface cleaner to the part. This will avoid dust from building in all the nooks and cranny's. Initially clean the part with Alcohol: plain old store bought Isopropryl Alcohol. It evaporates very quickly yet is strong enough to lift most types of oil and contaminates from the piece.

You will need an undercoat that bonds to the metal. You have 2 choices: an etching type of primer (acid based that will literally 'burn' into the metal, or an catalyzed expoxy. I prefer a catalyzed Epoxy like DuPont's 2690S "Prime & Seal" for this. First off it is available in black and it is so durable it can be used as a final coat if desired. The Epoxy dries to an attractive semi-gloss and will withstand most solvents such as laquer thinner, parts solvent, WD40 and so on, as well as stuff like Gasoline and Acetone. Once fully cured, the Epoxy primer cross-links to a waterproof surface. No moisture will penetrate it. The primer itself is very flexible as far as paints are concerned and very VERY chip resistant as a result. I have used this type of primer on engine blocks and intake manifolds as well though it is not recommended by the manefacturer.

If you are unable to Parkerize any of your parts, using a good 2K Epoxy primer on your parts is your next best bet.
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 4:34:58 PM EDT
I've been looking in to what type of finish to use on my AK recently.  Has anyone used the Teflon/Moly oven cure gun finish that Brownells sells?  If you are familiar with it, does a person use a phosphoric acid treatment like Phospo to prepare the surface?  What about priming the surface with the epoxy primer mentioned above?

Thanks for any help,  whiterabbit_308
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 5:19:18 PM EDT
Tagged...

I am also at the point I need to learn this art....

My plan was to parkerize and then Durakote but I always have time to listen to a better way!
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 8:16:07 PM EDT
I just finished two AK's, both parkerized with Manganese dioxide, then painted with two coats of Moly semi-gloss. One gun I did flat black by heating to metal to 300 degrees before the application, and the other I did semi gloss by only heating to 100 deg. The semi gloss can thus be used as a flat.

I get best results from moly by doing an initial light coat and focusing on the hard to reach areas, then bake, then a heavier coat. If you get it too thick in a coat then it chips off too easy.

I've used moly, gunkote, and Duplicolor engine enamel. Moly is my favorite.
Link Posted: 10/12/2005 9:21:16 PM EDT
I've been experimenting with Duracoat and like it VERY much!
Link Posted: 10/13/2005 6:15:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/13/2005 6:17:13 PM EDT by BurntPocketHole]
I want to know if anyone has had their ak POWDER COATED.

I have good a friend that works for a large metal plating company.  He told me it wouldnt cost anything to get my parts coated.  It's so easy for him, that he said he would powder coat the wheels on my car for like 12 bux each, any color.  Ive known him forever,  I know it could be done, given the word.  

Im wondering if I would have trouble putting my gun together once done.  my main concern is getting some coat in an important place like the barrel and what not

I figure the best bet would be to give him all the metal parts minus wood of course, plug up the orfaces with earplugs or somehting thatll work, and let him go at it.

This seems like one  of the best options for coating quite a few things, but what about our AK's???

Im in the same boat as woodsman.  Its time to refinish!!
Link Posted: 10/13/2005 6:26:35 PM EDT
Link Posted: 10/13/2005 7:20:57 PM EDT
I never thought of powder coating.  Make sure you take the parts directly from sandblasting to the spray booth and then the oven.  Also, make sure you cover any threads or plug any hole.  Once baked on these areas, it is a bitch to remove or should I say grind off.

Good luck
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