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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 2/1/2006 7:29:08 AM EST
I've had moderate success with manganese parkerizing home brewed from Jasco and batteries.

Some steel takes this quite well and other steel doesn't. The first thing I noticed was the welded and heat treated spots took it diffently. I've also noticed, even on factory built firearms, different metal pieced don't always match perfectly. Different steel alloys or heat treating I assume.

This isn't really a problem to me, but does a zinc parkerizing behave the same way? Is it any easier or harder to work with?

What if zinc and manganese was used in the same solution?

I though about experimenting with a zinc solution. I was planning on simply substituting the manganese with zinc in the Jasco recipe.

What should I used for the zinc? I have the zinc left over from cutting up the batteries. I also wondered if post 1982 pennies could be used since they are actually zinc with a copper clad. They could be cut in half to expose the zinc. Any thoughts on this?
Link Posted: 2/1/2006 8:22:10 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/1/2006 8:27:08 AM EST by Weasel_Master]
Pennies are 98% zinc. You could use some copper solvent to remove the outside coating. Not sure how it would affect the zinc though. Zinc melts at 787 degrees F while copper melts at 1984 degrees F. If you got a good source of heat you could melt it that way. In a lab one time we used electric current to melt two metals and seperate them. I'd have to fish around for the instructions though.
Link Posted: 2/1/2006 12:09:06 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/1/2006 12:10:04 PM EST by Hammer in PA]
What happens when you get different colors on metal parts is usually either from heat treating or dissimilar metals. The chemical reaction affects different metal in different ways.

To eliminate this you should use the zinc phosphate but before you do dip the part in a pre-black solution (both the zinc phosphate and pre-black are available from Brownell's). The pre-black coats the metal and makes that part look black. Then you use the phosphate solution to seal the pre-black. The method will make all the parts the same color regardless of heat treating or dissimular metals.

Those parts that you want a grey color, you just use the phosphate solution by itself.

I have used this type of phosphating and I am really pleased with the results. Below are two pictures of the finished product.

Enfield No4 Mk1* using pre-black.

Shotgun with both pre-black and non-preblacked parts.

Link Posted: 2/4/2006 4:41:39 PM EST
The guys over here say that you can just drill a hole in the penny to give the solution access to the zinc. You might spend some time snooping around over there. Its not very active, but there is plenty of good info.
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