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Posted: 1/11/2009 10:03:48 AM EST
I'm new to the dark side.
I just bought my first (kind of) - a used WASR 22. (I know it's not the best out there, but it was cheap. From what I here they're fun and cheap to fire so I picked it up) I'm also ordering a big brother for my little WASR (most likely now a Saiga.) You can see that decision topic here.

Now I don't know how old this WASR is... no cosmetic problems, just minor wear and some very light rust on gas tube and sight.  So it not close to new.

Any way here's my first problem:
I can't get the plastic block out of the rear of the receiver to remove the bolt.  I've tugged like hell on this thing.  I don't want to snap it.  Is there a trick to getting it out.  Google/ Forum searches turned up nothing.

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong, or do I need more force with a screwdriver or something?

I also can't remove the bottom front forearm.  The metal plate holding the wood in won't move at all.  Not as big a concern as the bolt, but need help with that too.

I'm also replacing the top with a standard top and plugging the gas tube hole.  So I know about those problems.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 10:38:56 AM EST
Yeah!
I got the block out.  It only took the strength of god, some pliers, and a lot of blood!

Ok so now the furniture:
How do to I get the front bottom forearm retainer to move?
How does the wooden stock/grip come off?

I'm loving AKs already!
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 10:44:40 AM EST
Got the stock off with a Screwdriver and a Hammer.   It was also on there really well!

This is great! I'm like a kid with his first bicycle!

I'm on to the bolt disassembly. Still need help with the forearm though.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 10:46:45 AM EST
To get the buffer block out of the receiver, the back end has to come up to clear the receiver. the front is held in by slots in the plastic engaging the folded top edge of the receiver.

Start by prying with a cheap knife or sharpish awl at the back of the block a little at a time. As soon as the back of the block gets high enough, the block can slide back and out.

Now you can get the bolt out and fiddle with the FCG, replace the disconnector spring if needed, become acquainted with the wonder that is the shepherd's crook.

To get the handguard off, flip up the lever locking the gas tube on and remove the gas tube.
Now you can flip up the pin locking the lower handguard on. Slide the metal forward ( gentle tap with a brass or plastic mallet may be needed) and the wood comes off.

Don't chop on the recoil spring just yet. I'll post the pics of my new 10ga spoke, nipple, and bushing front spring guide soon. It's used with the tubular rear spring guide for a East German AK74 and Ciener recoil spring if you need to tune the spring to stop hammer follow induced doubles.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 10:59:07 AM EST
Clean it up inside with lots of HOT soapy water, dry, and re-oil.

Reassembly is a bitch he first time.

You can hook the spring legs over the top of the hammer so there's no tension and slide the hammer into place, temporarily securing it with a pin from the RIGHT.

Looking through the LEFT hammer pin hole, slide the shepherd's crook into place in line with this hole and push in the hammer pivot pin from the LEFT, all the way in. Tug back on the shepherd's crook and that pin is now secured.

Drop in the trigger, and start its pin OVER THE TOP OF THE SHEPHERD'S CROOK, then through the trigger,and sear.

Once you get the pin all the way in, with some swearing but no HEAVY hammer blows, hold the pin all the way in from the left with a thumb and with a smallish punch, screwdriver, or tips of needlenose pliers (my preference)push down on the shepherd's crook right where it passes under the trigger pin and pop it into the retaining groove.


Your FCG is now secure . See linx's sticky.

I'll check back on you later.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 11:19:39 AM EST
Thanks for your help, it's awesome.
I've dissembled and reassembled the bolt.  Took off the extractor and firing pin.

Here's a question.  What's the screw piece for?  I reassemble it so it gives the extractor claw the most tension. Was I correct?
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 12:26:07 PM EST
Disassembled!

A hammer did come in very handy, and that Shepard's Crook was a wicked pain!  Can't wait to try to get that back in.

Thanks for your help so far.  Off to clean everything.

Getting it back together might be a problem, but you guys are here to help out.

Can the Rear Sight Leaf come off?
And what is the screw on the bolt for?  Isn't there some improvement you can make with it?
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 12:33:57 PM EST
Yep, 2 positions, high or low tension. Most of us use high.

I've filed the leading edge of the hook to provide better extraction of unfired rounds.

I THINK if you compress the rear sight spring, the sight blade can be tilted to disengage its trunnions from the sight base.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 12:44:06 PM EST
The front sight is banged up too.  Is it possible to replace that too?
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 1:14:45 PM EST
Linx310's sticky has lots of repair. Canted sight bases /gas blocks can be repaired or replaced by drifting out the crosspins, straightening said part, and drilling new holes( in proper alignment) in the barrel.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 1:50:57 PM EST
Thanks I'll check that sticky out!
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 7:05:17 PM EST
Done!
I've stripped everything I could off the receiver. Cleaned.  And Reassembled.
I feel like I just doubled or tripled my knowledge on AKs and I'm loving them so far.
The range is later in the week. Can't wait!
Thanks again to all!  You'll hear from me soon I'm sure.
Link Posted: 1/11/2009 9:02:53 PM EST
You have.. i was at the range a few months ago, and a guy there had a black funitured AK, he paid i think 600-700 for it, so it was probably polish or something or other, anyways the mag was STUCK in it, and he had NO idea how to get it out, they called me over since I bring Ak's frequently, he had never taken the cover off or cleaned or anything since buying it (i clean everything after purchase new or not). Alot of people do not know anything about their AK's before shooting them i guess...


PICS!
Link Posted: 1/12/2009 12:16:52 PM EST
Pics will come, right now it's just in standard WASR 22 form. So not much to look at.  I'll get a before and after for you!
Link Posted: 1/12/2009 6:22:32 PM EST
that works too, i dont think any of us mind looking at the EXACT same gun, its yours, its gonna have slight different nuances :)you might have REALLY nice matching wood!
Link Posted: 1/13/2009 5:35:13 PM EST
Get a few SOG (Southern Ohio Guns) AKT-98 MAGS (akmt-22 mag @19.95 each) they are nice Weiger steel  AKM mag bodies with the cugir plastic 10 round inserts  in them and look& function really well , and get the  BDM highcaps as well ... plus some Romanian Military laminate "takeoff" furniture as well ...
Link Posted: 1/13/2009 7:29:07 PM EST
Wow they are weigers? almost makes you think you could buy those rip off the top and put some nice 5.56 followers and have cheap wieger mags!
Link Posted: 1/14/2009 3:50:20 PM EST
I fixed up my WASR-22 before shooting it for the first time.

Polished bolt, threaded muzzle,and refinished Romy G wood.

Luckily it functioned well right out of the box.

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/458/dscn2720ls0.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/896/dscn2723ry7.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7773/dscn2737zh6.jpg
Link Posted: 1/14/2009 4:01:57 PM EST
That is nice!

I just shot mine. AWESOME! I love it!

I had a the usual shells left in the housing if I fired it fast that caused jams (I'm getting a standard top cover).  If I took slow shots, it functioned great!  The sights were dead on too!

I only had one problem.  I had two failure-to-feed.  The bullet got stuck on the flat side of the barrel below the barrel hole.  I'm surprised there is no feed ramp.
Is there anything I can do for this?

Oh I was firing Blazer 22s.
Link Posted: 1/14/2009 6:08:48 PM EST
These little beasts are soooo much more fun & affordable & user friendly (ability of owner to repair himself and install the unlimited combanations of furniture & acessories) than the new plastic fantastic 10/22's & GSG 5 variations ...
Link Posted: 1/14/2009 6:54:49 PM EST
Quoted:
That is nice!

I just shot mine. AWESOME! I love it!

I had a the usual shells left in the housing if I fired it fast that caused jams (I'm getting a standard top cover).  If I took slow shots, it functioned great!  The sights were dead on too!

I only had one problem.  I had two failure-to-feed.  The bullet got stuck on the flat side of the barrel below the barrel hole.  I'm surprised there is no feed ramp.
Is there anything I can do for this?

Oh I was firing Blazer 22s.


My AKT 98 did this and I took the sharp edge off the chamber opening with a dremel.  I also changed the angle on the follower of my BDM mag to where the nose of the bullet rides higher and is more of a direct line feed into the chamber..  I went very slowly on both trying not to remove any more metal or plastic than I had to.  I've had very good luck shooting Blazers and Fed 550 Bulk 22's from Walmart.  My rifle runs about 99% of the time with either ammo and even in rapid fire.
Link Posted: 1/14/2009 7:03:31 PM EST
DREDnot that is one good looking WASR 22.  The BDM looks like a 5.45 orange plastic mag and the muzzle break looks awesome.  It looks just like a 5.45 rifle, very nice looking AK.  Where'd you get your tool to thread your barrel.  Did you order your barrel threading tool or rent it?  I've thought about threading my barrel but never took the plunge.

Link Posted: 1/15/2009 10:16:21 AM EST
Quoted:
I fixed up my WASR-22 before shooting it for the first time.

Polished bolt, threaded muzzle,and refinished Romy G wood.

Luckily it functioned well right out of the box.

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/458/dscn2720ls0.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/896/dscn2723ry7.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7773/dscn2737zh6.jpg


Did you polish the bolt yourself?
Link Posted: 1/15/2009 4:23:59 PM EST
The threading die I bought from K-VAR.
I had to find a 1.5" die stock(handle) locally.
The diameter of the muzzle was a bit too big for the die to handle so I had to sand it down some before the die would bite.

the bolt was easy. I just smoothed the outside surface and left a satin-like finish with an angle die grinder and some scotchbrite wheels

http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/448/dscn1893rhv3.jpg

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/2706/dscn1844at6.jpg
Link Posted: 1/16/2009 11:09:32 AM EST
Thanks DREDnot for the info I'll check K-var's site.  I've bought things from them before and had good service.  I just like the looks of a muzzle break on the barrels.

Link Posted: 1/17/2009 3:23:35 PM EST
I just order the pistol grip nut and standard top cover from K-Var.  thanks
Link Posted: 1/17/2009 8:24:32 PM EST
You will need the Grip nut & screw for swapping out the PSL to another stock ! and the Ribbed topcovers look  the best ../
Link Posted: 1/18/2009 3:39:52 AM EST
Yup, got the ribbed top cover.  I just need the nut from k-var.  I got a screw coming from a company I found a grip from, DS Arms I believe.
I also ordered new hand guards form DS Arms.  Hope they look nice.  We'll see in about a week.  I'll try to have pics by then.
Link Posted: 1/19/2009 6:19:40 AM EST
Quoted:
The threading die I bought from K-VAR.
I had to find a 1.5" die stock(handle) locally.
The diameter of the muzzle was a bit too big for the die to handle so I had to sand it down some before the die would bite.

the bolt was easy. I just smoothed the outside surface and left a satin-like finish with an angle die grinder and some scotchbrite wheels

http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/448/dscn1893rhv3.jpg

http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/2706/dscn1844at6.jpg


What size die did you use?
Link Posted: 1/19/2009 3:50:48 PM EST
Nice work... is there a difference between the WASR 22 and the AKT98?

I have the AKT 98 and it works flawlessly for me, will WASR 22 mags fit AKT98?
Would love an orange mag.

Thanks
Billy
Link Posted: 1/20/2009 9:14:35 AM EST
Quoted:
Nice work... is there a difference between the WASR 22 and the AKT98?

I have the AKT 98 and it works flawlessly for me, will WASR 22 mags fit AKT98?
Would love an orange mag.

Thanks
Billy


You should feel very fortunate your AKT 98 works flawlessly.  I can't really say I've read where someone had no trouble with their AKT 98.  The AKT 98 and WASR 22 are made at the same Cugir factory in Romania and the only difference is in the polymer furniture on the AKT 98 and the wood furniture on the WASR 22.  Most of the AKT 98's were sold through SOG of Ohio and I think Century Arms International has imported most of the WASR 22's.  The magazine bodies are different on the AKT 98 and WASR 22 but I believe the 22 inserts are the same in both mags.  The BDM mags work great in my AKT 98 and my rifle functions better with the BDM mags than the factory 10 rounders.  I really like the extra rounds you can load in the BDM and the Bolt Hold Open Followers (BHO).  I wish BDM would produce a short AK mag like the 15 rounder he brought out for the AR 22's.  The shorter mags would  be worth having for the BHO follower and reliability and ease of shooting off the bench.

Link Posted: 1/20/2009 8:46:57 PM EST
Quoted:

What size die did you use?


14x1 LH

Standard AK47 thread.

Link Posted: 1/21/2009 1:28:43 AM EST
Thanks
Link Posted: 1/21/2009 5:33:40 AM EST
Quoted:
Quoted:

What size die did you use?


14x1 LH

Standard AK47 thread.



interesting....guess i need to get a die and guide...i have a couple of these to do....who has the guides for 7.62?
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 11:03:10 AM EST
I've set the extraction screw to high.
I've replaced the top cover with a standard cover.  
I've plugged the gas tube.

I still can't get through a 10 round mag without at least one failure-to-eject.

What else can I do?
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 1:21:05 PM EST
This can be caused by inadequate bolt speed.

Most .22 autos can extract/eject without an extractor. I had an expensive .22 Short rapidfire match pistol that had no provision for extraction of a dud, short of your pocketknife.

Solution may involve:

3-Lighter hammer spring.
1-Polished hammer face/bolt bottom
2-Lighter recoil spring
4-Lighter bolt
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 2:08:20 PM EST
Do they make light hammer springs for AKs.  
And I had the same problem with an AR, but the lighter hammer spring wouldn't fire all the time.
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 2:45:05 PM EST
There are no hammer springs other than center fire hammer springs that I have been able to locate.  The centerfire AK hammer spring is multi wire wrapped spring.  I read where 1 poster tried to remove a few of the strands to reduce its pull weight.  On my AKT-98 I ended up cutting the factory recoil spring.  I clipped off a coil or two and tested the rifle.  I quit when the rifle worked with my ammo.  The reduced recoil spring pressure does increase bolt speed which does give the case a better kick from the ejector.  I ended up taking off about an inch 1/4 off my recoil spring.  My rifle works great now with Walmart Federal 550 bulk 36 grain plated HP ammo.  If you have a new WASR 22 you might see if Century will sell you a new recoil spring before you start cutting yours.  I tried century but they wouldn't sell me anything.  I bought a centerfire recoil spring which is also a multi wire spring.  I cut this spring to a shorter length than my factory spring but it caused my rifle to double and triple because it was still way to heavy.  There is also a post where someone made a recoil spring guide rod to fit his WASR 22 and he is using Lakeside springs intended for the Ciener AR 15 conversion.  This might be another option to cutting your factory recoil spring.  The recoil spring guide thread is on the 22 page WASR 22 thread on about page 20.  Good luck I hope you get your rifle working.

Link Posted: 1/25/2009 4:21:36 PM EST
Quoted:
There are no hammer springs other than center fire hammer springs that I have been able to locate.  The centerfire AK hammer spring is multi wire wrapped spring.  I read where 1 poster tried to remove a few of the strands to reduce its pull weight.  On my AKT-98 I ended up cutting the factory recoil spring.  I clipped off a coil or two and tested the rifle.  I quit when the rifle worked with my ammo.  The reduced recoil spring pressure does increase bolt speed which does give the case a better kick from the ejector.  I ended up taking off about an inch 1/4 off my recoil spring.  My rifle works great now with Walmart Federal 550 bulk 36 grain plated HP ammo.  If you have a new WASR 22 you might see if Century will sell you a new recoil spring before you start cutting yours.  I tried century but they wouldn't sell me anything.  I bought a centerfire recoil spring which is also a multi wire spring.  I cut this spring to a shorter length than my factory spring but it caused my rifle to double and triple because it was still way to heavy.  There is also a post where someone made a recoil spring guide rod to fit his WASR 22 and he is using Lakeside springs intended for the Ciener AR 15 conversion.  This might be another option to cutting your factory recoil spring.  The recoil spring guide thread is on the 22 page WASR 22 thread on about page 20.  Good luck I hope you get your rifle working.



This mod with the Ciener Recoil spring & motorbike spoke & nipple & AK74 tubular guide looks like the Winner for these prollems  (Look at the Pics )
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 5:24:23 PM EST
Quoted:
There are no hammer springs other than center fire hammer springs that I have been able to locate.  The centerfire AK hammer spring is multi wire wrapped spring.  I read where 1 poster tried to remove a few of the strands to reduce its pull weight.  On my AKT-98 I ended up cutting the factory recoil spring.  I clipped off a coil or two and tested the rifle.  I quit when the rifle worked with my ammo.  The reduced recoil spring pressure does increase bolt speed which does give the case a better kick from the ejector.  I ended up taking off about an inch 1/4 off my recoil spring.  My rifle works great now with Walmart Federal 550 bulk 36 grain plated HP ammo.  If you have a new WASR 22 you might see if Century will sell you a new recoil spring before you start cutting yours.  I tried century but they wouldn't sell me anything.  I bought a centerfire recoil spring which is also a multi wire spring.  I cut this spring to a shorter length than my factory spring but it caused my rifle to double and triple because it was still way to heavy.  There is also a post where someone made a recoil spring guide rod to fit his WASR 22 and he is using Lakeside springs intended for the Ciener AR 15 conversion.  This might be another option to cutting your factory recoil spring.  The recoil spring guide thread is on the 22 page WASR 22 thread on about page 20.  Good luck I hope you get your rifle working.



Good Stuff, Thanks!

I'm going to try to cut it a little at a time.  
I saw K-Var has some recoil springs incase I screw on up.

I was firing Federal Game Shok 40grain plated solid bullets.  
I'm not sure what other bullets get more kick back.
Link Posted: 1/25/2009 7:31:28 PM EST
Todd, the centerfire AK recoil and hammer springs are WAY too heavy, so don't count on using them as replacements.
I wrecked my hammer spring and have gotten a 3 strand AK spring to work, but it has been a pain in the butt winding an extra part of a coil on to weaken it .
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 11:12:31 AM EST
Quoted:
Todd, the centerfire AK recoil and hammer springs are WAY too heavy, so don't count on using them as replacements.
I wrecked my hammer spring and have gotten a 3 strand AK spring to work, but it has been a pain in the butt winding an extra part of a coil on to weaken it .


Didn't know that.
OK, so where would I get another recoil spring if I mess up this one?
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:28:31 PM EST
As far as I know, you can't. That's why, after screwing up my hammer spring I was reluctant to start chopping down my recoil spring.

But if you aren't successful, my Lakeside spring system will get you running again. See page 20 of the big WASR22 thread.

The standard centerfire AK disconnector spring helps many of these guns , too.
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