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Posted: 6/14/2009 9:40:14 AM EST
Dupli-Color Ceramic Engine paint, 'Low-Gloss Black'. Available at NAPA for $5.50 along with 'Gloss Black'. Withstands 500F and can be baked after drying. The 'Low Gloss' is almost 'flat', but not quite. I applied it to a gas tube after cleaning with drugstore alcohol, just a light coat which covered very well. I left it to cure in the hot sun about 4 hrs, then put it in the toaster oven at 250F for an hour. The color and finish did not change during baking, and it still looked like it did after initial drying. Probably not as durable as the dedicated gun finishes, but it can be baked at a lower temperature so you could cure parts/receivers with springs without any concerns. The paint doesn't HAVE to be heat-cured, but I don't have the patience needed for air-drying.
Notice how it matches the Hungarian military finish on the vented steel handguard.
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 10:44:32 AM EST
That looks good. Thanks for the info.
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 12:54:51 PM EST
Excellent post, Saxman. It's hard to tell from the photo, but would you say that this finish is similar to the black "GunKote" type finish in the TGI AMD-65's? Would it be closer to the GunKote semi-gloss or matte?

The Hungarian wood there looks amazing. I've tried your recommendation, using Ballistol and steel wool, but so many of the nicks and gouges still remain. I've resorted to lightly sanding, then applying oil, but the end result is not nearly as nice as your handguards. :)
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 3:36:00 PM EST
Thanks, Serb. No, the steel wool can't do much for nicks and gouges - with the Ballistol it cleans and does some minor smoothing. Mine have nicks and gouges too, and the steel wool seems to 'melt' the sharp edges a little. I also have a TGI AMD-65, and just now comparing the two gas tubes, I have to say that the finishes are identical. The 'Low Gloss' is not 'flat' (matte) but is more dull than a 'semi-gloss'. Just right for the AK. If you like those pistol grips, check out the wood on my SA85M before it became an 'AMD-63'. Believe me, I definitely kept the original gas tube and hand guards - they're put away in case I want to change it back - takes about ten minutes.
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 6:38:38 PM EST
Nicest 85 I've ever seen. The furniture looks like it was sent to you directly from the woodshop in Budapest...not even issued! The '63 project is looking great. All you need now is a set of ultra-rare plastic '63 furniture!

Link Posted: 6/15/2009 4:09:28 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 12:10:00 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/15/2009 12:10:32 PM EST by CarlosC]
Refinished with the ceramic engine paint.




Link Posted: 6/15/2009 12:59:47 PM EST
I've used it to paint all the receivers I made.
Not as durable as some other finishes, but repainting takes care of that.
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 1:21:20 PM EST
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
I've used it to paint all the receivers I made.
Not as durable as some other finishes, but repainting takes care of that.


You should see better durability if you heat-cure it. 250F for as long as you want to cure it (over 1 hour).

Link Posted: 6/15/2009 1:43:40 PM EST
Carlos; It looks good! Did you heat it at all or just air dry? Your -65 is just like mine before i changed out the muzzle brake/2" pipe for a Tapco one-piece extension brake that looks just like the original. This makes the barrel 3/4" shorter but still legal at 16.25".


Serb; tell me you're kidding about the 'ultra-rare AMD-63 plastic furniture' - I don't need another 'holy grail' right now.
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 1:44:30 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/15/2009 2:17:43 PM EST by Serb]
Nice work, Carlos. I really like your AMD now that the barrel has been shortened. I've got to make a little trip to my friendly neighborhood NAPA store this week!
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 3:47:54 PM EST
+1 for the Dupli-Color fans. I use it and heat cure it...works great for me!
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 3:02:27 AM EST
Originally Posted By 1saxman:
Originally Posted By POLYTHENEPAM:
I've used it to paint all the receivers I made.
Not as durable as some other finishes, but repainting takes care of that.


You should see better durability if you heat-cure it. 250F for as long as you want to cure it (over 1 hour).


I've done it both ways.
Uncured is about as durable as Bulgarian "squid ink".
Cured is about as durable as Polish paint.
Either is acceptable to me because I don't own wall hangers or safe queens.
Neither is as durable as some other finishes, which is important to people who care as much about how a rifle looks as they care about how it works.
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 5:56:25 AM EST
If you bake it, how resistant is it to solvents, specifically CLP, Hoppe's, and brake cleaner?

I've used Aluma-Hyde 2 and Gun Kote in the past which are extremely resistant to most solvents (including the ones above), but that stuff runs $10-$20 per can and I have to get it from Brownell's. A cheaper option I can get at NAPA would be nice.

Can anyone comment on thickness?
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 6:02:03 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 6:58:41 AM EST
Originally Posted By strat81:
If you bake it, how resistant is it to solvents, specifically CLP, Hoppe's, and brake cleaner?


IDK about CLP and brake cleaner, but Hoppes doesn't affect it, so long as you don't soak it or leave it on for a long period.
It may not be affected if you soak it or leave it on. I've never done either that I can recall.

Link Posted: 6/17/2009 8:42:02 AM EST
After all, it is engine paint which must be resistant to hot gasoline and oil. Thickness? You can get a very thin coat with it that has no effect on markings or surface texture. You can recoat within an hour and before heating to get it as thick as you wish. Perfect for AK mags too, although I favor Alumahyde II for polymer mags.
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 9:26:10 AM EST
Anyone know what will match the finish on a Yugo Krink?
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 10:08:33 AM EST
Originally Posted By 1saxman:
Carlos; It looks good! Did you heat it at all or just air dry? Your -65 is just like mine before i changed out the muzzle brake/2" pipe for a Tapco one-piece extension brake that looks just like the original. This makes the barrel 3/4" shorter but still legal at 16.25".
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb27/INLAND44/Guns/AMD65a.jpg

Serb; tell me you're kidding about the 'ultra-rare AMD-63 plastic furniture' - I don't need another 'holy grail' right now.


Sorry for the late response!

Mine was just air dried and thanks for the compliment. I have since replaced the sling on mine with a new one, so it looks even more like yours. I like and prefer the lighter pistol grips you have, but mine will do for now.
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 11:17:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/17/2009 12:56:16 PM EST by Serb]
I read a thread posted on another forum about four months ago where a gentleman actually found one of the rare plastic AKM-63 sets, minus buttstock hardware and pistol grip plug. There is also a photo posted from a Japanese publication on the same thread, showing the stock, which has a somewhat unusual shape, though very similar to the wood '63 stock. Supposedly, it's the same material as the plastic grips for the '65, but a different, lighter color.

Although this "grail" is out there somewhere, your wood stock is much more beautiful. Don't go there!

Serb
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 11:21:40 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/17/2009 11:31:48 AM EST
Originally Posted By Chris_1522:
Originally Posted By JIMBEAM:
Anyone know what will match the finish on a Yugo Krink?


All the Yugos that I know of were blued, I would assume the Krink would be no different.

You'll have to blue the reciever if you really want it to match - but that's not really all that hard.


Do you think cold blue would match?

Link Posted: 6/18/2009 7:02:52 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/18/2009 7:06:07 AM EST by Shrike37]
I would strongly reconsider using the 500F version. If you ever shoot more than a mag or two rapid fire, you will cook it off. There is a 1200F version of the Dupli-Color Engine paint; I have used it on multiple rifles. It looks great, durable to cleaning solvents, doesn't flake, and is cheap! I always cure it in the oven though.

Breakefree CLP and Remoil do not harm the 1200F version if left on indefinitely. Hoppes #9 does not harm it either, however, I have never left it to soak on the paint more than maybe 15-20min. before wiping off with CLP.
Link Posted: 6/18/2009 9:09:59 AM EST
Originally Posted By Shrike37:
I would strongly reconsider using the 500F version. If you ever shoot more than a mag or two rapid fire, you will cook it off.

Perhaps it will "cook it off" the barrel or gas tube, but it will not harm the paint on the receiver, even when air dried.

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