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Posted: 7/28/2005 7:40:08 PM EDT
How can i improve my wasr-10?

I know i need to fix the trigger slap.

The trigger itself isn't all that smooth and crisp, can i fix that too while i am at it?
Is there an easy parts kit i can buy that will take care of this?


Link Posted: 7/28/2005 9:12:21 PM EDT
http://gunsnet.net/Linx310/slapfix.htm
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 5:07:43 AM EDT
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 4:14:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/29/2005 4:15:32 PM EDT by Chalex]
I hope i don't sound like an idiot, but what is the site address to ee?

Also would a buffer be a good investment?
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 5:59:34 PM EDT
A friend of mine put a Red Star trigger group in his and it shoots nice. No more slap!
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 6:28:52 PM EDT
buffers are worthless. get a G2 trigger group. EE is Equipment Exchange. there is a link up top with all the other forums. www.dpharms.com is a good place to get them. i would also get a retaining plate from tapco because it makes a 10 minute job into a 10 second job when installing and removing the trigger.

the G2 will fix all of your trigger problems at once. your WASR-10 might already ahve a G2 trigger group. check if the trigger itself is marked USA.
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 10:10:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/29/2005 10:14:48 PM EDT by longhorn789]
Any of the cheap and easy improvements on THIS site are the way to go..

I did the following to my WASR-10..

1. Refinished wood the cheap way with sandpaper, stain, and polyurethane spray (looks GREAT).
2. Replaced trigger group with G2.
3. Polished bolt carrier and charging handle with steel brush on the end of my power drill.
4. Pinned gas rod into bolt carrier.

CLICK PICTURE TO EXPAND







Go ahead and try to fix your AK up a bit for your own enjoyment. You will appreciate the rifle more after you do...and it's CHEAP!
Link Posted: 7/30/2005 5:29:35 PM EDT
What is the difference between double hook and siungle hook g2 fcg's?
Link Posted: 7/30/2005 6:54:41 PM EDT
Double hook triggers hook the hammer on both sides. Yours I am sure is a single hook trigger and notice how it only hooks on one side of the hammer.

Some like the trigger pull of a double over a single (I do) while some don't care. If you go with a double, you will need to notch out the bottom of the receiver (a simple little notch) to allow for the second hook. Take a look at where your trigger comes out and notice the square slot with a little offset rounded notch on one corner. That is what you have to match on the opposite side of the square to fit a double.

I think single hook triggers came about when rate reducers were added to the trigger group and so the second hook was dispenced with as it sits in the same place as the second hook.

If you decide to go with a double hook, the little notch can be make using a round needle file although a Dremel works faster.
Link Posted: 7/30/2005 9:58:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/30/2005 10:03:10 PM EDT by walrus]
WASR-10's are double hook.

Out of the box:

After some work:
Link Posted: 7/31/2005 5:08:18 AM EDT
My 2001 WASR10 is a single hook. It came with the muzzle nut welded in place, single stack version, and no bayonet lugs.

Not all WASR10s are the same apparently.
Link Posted: 7/31/2005 9:42:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/31/2005 9:43:55 AM EDT by Chalex]
I looked at my trigger and it looks like it's a single hook. Only one hook is holding the hammer down from the trigger itself. Also there is only oine notch cut where the trigger meets the receiver and the hook needs extra room so it goes where that notch is.

I looked into triggers and is the red star arms ajustable trigger a good investment?

Also how do you get your bolt carrier to be that shinny sliver color? It looks like a russian ak and looks awesome.

One other question, how do you get the wood part off the gas tube so i can stain it to look good?
Link Posted: 7/31/2005 10:44:40 AM EDT
To remove the bluing, get some bluing remover (phosphoric acid) from wally world or the local gun shop. I think any kind of rust remove may also work.

To remove the wood off of the gas tube: Remove the gas tube hold in your hand and take a wrench and turn the front part of the gas tube (the part that locks down into the receiver). The gas tube has those flats on it on the end. Just put your wrench on it.

You want to turn it 180 degrees and the end of the tube will turn. You will then be able to easily remove the wood.

Link Posted: 7/31/2005 10:47:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/31/2005 10:47:49 AM EDT by walrus]

Originally Posted By Chalex:
I looked at my trigger and it looks like it's a single hook. Only one hook is holding the hammer down from the trigger itself. Also there is only oine notch cut where the trigger meets the receiver and the hook needs extra room so it goes where that notch is.

I looked into triggers and is the red star arms ajustable trigger a good investment?

Also how do you get your bolt carrier to be that shinny sliver color? It looks like a russian ak and looks awesome.

One other question, how do you get the wood part off the gas tube so i can stain it to look good?



The RSA triggers will run you about $80, the Tapco G2's fix trigger slap for around $35. Considering the rifle isn't more than $400, that's alot to spend on a trigger. If you want an adjustable trigger that is VERY nice, then go for it, but I'd reccomend the G2.

Strip the bolt carrier of bluing using a blue and rust remover or just use a dremel tool with a polishing pad, steel wool, etc. After the bluing is removed, find a chrome polishing compound and rub it on there.

To remove the top handguard, just rotate the wood to 6 o'clock and it'll come off.

Remember when working on the WASR-10, it's not going to be of the highest quality, so you might have to use a tad more force to remove certain parts, file rough edges down, etc. Like others have said, check out this page. It'll tell you most anything you need to know about working on your AK.
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 11:48:38 AM EDT
Have you handled another AK? try handling a better quality (Chinese/Russian) AK and see if your mags rock in as easily. if not, or if you are experiencing some difficulty wedging your mags in your Romy probably needs some meat removed from the mag area. I just did mine with a dremmel and she's a mag slut now (but the mags do NOT rock loosely while properly seated after my job).
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