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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 3/27/2006 12:19:43 PM EST
And it needs a good stain.

I want to refinish the stock from my romy G kit with a nice reddish brown finish and make the ironwood handguards match.

What's everyone's favorite recipie for a durable wood stain and finish?
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 12:52:12 PM EST
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 6:06:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/27/2006 6:07:34 PM EST by clubsoda22]
very nice. I don't think i want to use shellac though. Would something more durable like polyurethane turn out acceptable?
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 6:44:55 PM EST

Originally Posted By clubsoda22:
very nice. I don't think i want to use shellac though. Would something more durable like polyurethane turn out acceptable?



I've used Tru-Oil over my stained furnitures and am very pleased with the results.
Link Posted: 3/27/2006 6:58:17 PM EST
I mainly use amber shellac for the color it gives and have begun to use spray on spar urethane over the shellac when I'm finished.... lightly sanding in between coats of course. It's been pretty durable. You're right that shellac isn't the most durable finish out there but apparently that's what the Russians used on their stocks for what it's worth.
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 7:47:05 AM EST
urethane over the shellac sounds like i good way to keep the authentic look without the authentic wear
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 11:45:32 AM EST
i went with no hardening top coat, because when you scratch them, you will get white streaks. if you want it kinda shiney, you can get that just by sanding with a fine grit paper. if youre after protection, you can use a wood wax and buff it out. also, watcos oils do a nice job of both staining and protecting
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 10:52:34 PM EST
Yep, greeneyed devil is right. If you scratch a polyurethane finish it's scratched forever. No way to repair it. If you scratch a shellac finish, just wipe on some more shellac and it'll "melt" together. When applied correctly, shellac is actually a very durable finish.

Every Russian Mosin Nagant, SVT, SKS, and AK that left Izhevsk (Izhmash) or Tula left with a shellac finish. Good enough for the Reds, good enough for me.
Link Posted: 3/28/2006 11:55:55 PM EST

Originally Posted By skywarp989:
If you scratch a shellac finish, just wipe on some more shellac and it'll "melt" together.



That's a good point. Isn't shellac somewhat vunerable to water damage though?
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 12:22:54 AM EST
I really do have wood
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 7:03:21 AM EST

Originally Posted By tapeo1:

Originally Posted By skywarp989:
If you scratch a shellac finish, just wipe on some more shellac and it'll "melt" together.



That's a good point. Isn't shellac somewhat vunerable to water damage though?



Yeah, it is. Water can get through it if it sits on the surface. If you get caught in a rain shower with your rifle you'll be fine. Just don't set your cold beer bottle on it and you won't have much trouble, I bet.

But it can easily be repaired and is far more waterproof than a boiled linseed oil finish.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 9:56:59 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/29/2006 9:57:22 AM EST by tapeo1]

Originally Posted By skywarp989:
Yeah, it is. Water can get through it if it sits on the surface. If you get caught in a rain shower with your rifle you'll be fine. Just don't set your cold beer bottle on it and you won't have much trouble, I bet.

But it can easily be repaired and is far more waterproof than a boiled linseed oil finish.



I didn't realize that. Thanks for the info.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 10:10:55 AM EST
I used this http://www.chestnutridge.com/images/inv/MAWAL1.asp on my ironwood walnut stock set and it came out great.
Link Posted: 3/29/2006 11:34:41 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/29/2006 11:35:53 AM EST by GreenEyedDevil]
also, alcohol will wash your shellac right back off again, for better or worse
thats why new shellac bonds with existing, the alc in the new product re-activates the old
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