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Posted: 12/6/2006 3:43:05 PM EDT
[#1]
Member wjm on the equipment exchange. I'll make it easy on you............................
Take your time and for best results remove or move back the FSB while threading. Correctly position the threading die with the TAT and use plenty of cutting oil. Back up the die to clear metal shavings every 1/4 to half turn. Make sure you install the spring and detent pin. |
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Posted: 12/6/2006 4:08:03 PM EDT
[#2]
How do i remove the Fsb and what is good cutting oil |
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Posted: 12/6/2006 5:05:00 PM EDT
[#3]
To remove the front sight block (or move it rearward a bit temporarily like I did) just knock out both crosspins left to right. Then the FSB should move back with a tap from a rubber or plastic mallet about a half inch. Just thread a turn past where you would have stopped.
I got threading oil from ACE hardware is all and it was about a dollar and a half. A thick motor oil would probably work if you can't find it. |
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Posted: 12/6/2006 5:40:58 PM EDT
[#4]
I've used wjm's kits on my SAR-1 and SAR-2. I used motor oil and followed the written instructions included with the kits. Takes about 10 minutes. I did not move my front sight base and it worked out OK. I can see where moving the FSB would be beneficial but not absolutely necessary. You will have to remove the front sight base pin to install the spring detent pin so you are halfway there already. You make the call.
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Posted: 12/6/2006 5:45:18 PM EDT
[#5]
tag
 good info. thinking about doing the exact same thing......
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Posted: 12/6/2006 6:33:20 PM EDT
[#6]
Whats this detent pin im kinda new to this sorry
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Posted: 12/6/2006 6:38:02 PM EDT
[#7]
it is a pin that hold the brake on some one should be able to get a pic of it i dont have one. my question is where to get the pin and spring? |
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Posted: 12/6/2006 6:52:00 PM EDT
[#8]
www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16819&cat=303&page=1  
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Posted: 12/6/2006 6:58:15 PM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 12/6/2006 7:02:08 PM EDT
[#10]
What are the little nubs for
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Posted: 12/6/2006 7:15:54 PM EDT
[#11]
We are talking a SAR-1 here, not a SAR-2. Is the diameter of the SAR-1 barrel going to fit that without boring it out? And the AK-74 brake will not work too good for a 7.62x39 round when it is designed for a 5.45x39 round. I have one on a SAR-2. The correct way to do it is threading on that rifle and it is also much less expensive. Don't take my word on it though I've only done a few. |
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Posted: 12/6/2006 8:36:34 PM EDT
[#12]
 oops. Missed that. I never intended to doubt you Mak, I was just offering (what I thought was) an option. I have an SAR 2, and this got me thinking of "fixing" mine. My bad.
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Posted: 12/7/2006 1:50:30 AM EDT
[#13]
Well maybe he should just call up US AK and ask them the question about this, becuase it seems that the '74' brake that they have comes in 7.62mm and even has a thread adaptor for it, so maybe getting that Kvar FSB (if it can fit on a SAR1 barrel) might be the way to go. |
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Posted: 12/7/2006 3:05:15 AM EDT
[#14]
A couple of tips I have to add on cutting muzzle brake threads.
Tip 1- take a couple paper towels roll them into a funnel shape and wrap them around the barrel. Then tape them to the barrel on the bottom like in the pic below. This keeps the cutting oil and metal chips off the floor. The metal chips are razor sharp with really jaged edges. Stepping on them will imbed them in your foot and cut the crap out of it. I have had to patch a half dozen holes in my waterbed from the chips getting stuck in my socks before going to bed. Once you have your barrel threaded hold the barrel upright till you get it over a trash can and then cut the tape using the paper towels to wipe off all the chips/oil into the trash can.  Tip 2- Turn the die no more than 1/4 a turn before turning the die in reverse till you feel the chips break. Then every two revolutions of the die stop and with your mouth over the die blow the chips out of the die,off the barrel,and into the bottom of the paper towels. Then apply more thread cutting oil. To me it is a lot easier to spend the extra $1 and get the spray can of thread cutting oil. As the pressure in the can will blow the chips into the bottom of paper towels so no need to use your breath to remove the chips. |
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Posted: 12/7/2006 4:28:48 AM EDT
[#15]
Thanx Guys i think i know what to do now
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Posted: 12/7/2006 11:40:22 AM EDT
[#16]
You can make anything work but if he buys that FSB how many different types of muzzle devices can he install? I've got one installed and I can find exactly one (1). The Romanian style brake. I haven't seen any 22mm to 24mm adapters to use 24x1.5RH threaded devices. I don't think there is such a thing as the diameters ID/OD are too close to provide both threads and strength I would think in the application at the muzzles end. Threading your SAR-1 provides you with endless types of muzzle devices you can install. You can also then use the 14x1LH to 24x1.5RH adapter and use the Bulgarian Flash Hider for AR-M1 which accepts the three common AK calibers.   |
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Posted: 12/7/2006 1:46:56 PM EDT
[#17]
If you don't want to pay for the little detent pin and spring you can very easily make one for less than KVAR has them for.
Anyone have tips on getting the FSB pins to move? Mine won't budge. |
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Posted: 12/7/2006 1:53:21 PM EDT
[#18]
That is one cool looking flash hider. Does it perform well?
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Posted: 12/8/2006 4:03:59 AM EDT
[#19]
ok, so what sort of flash hiders/muzzle breaks are available for the 14X1 (SAR1) threads? birdcage? vortex? other? links would be great too. and yes, i googled, but apperently my googlefu is weak.......
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Posted: 12/8/2006 4:45:44 AM EDT
[#20]
Instead of cutting the barrel you can use the adapter that has 4 set screws in it to secure it to the barrel. To really secure it you could drill slight indentations into the barrel for the set screws to sit in. A dab of locktite in each depression and the job is complete.
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Posted: 12/8/2006 5:33:57 AM EDT
[#21]
I didn't have to move the FSB to thread my barrel and I got threads cut all the way back to the FSB. Ditto on what everyone said with going slow and don't skimp on the cutting oil. I did a 1/4 turn and backed off, repeat. Definately need the centering spud in the bore. As I recall, the die is slightly recessed on one side. You can flip it over and finish the threading to get it flush with the FSB.
I had a hell of a time getting the pin out to install the muzzle brake detent. I had to heat up the FSB with a torch to do so. It did have one other beneficial effect. I had oiled the freshly cut threads on the muzzle to keep them from rusting and the torch did a very good job of burning the oil and blackening the the threads for me. Didn't have to blue them! |
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Posted: 12/8/2006 11:59:00 AM EDT
[#22]
I used a hefty center punch on one that would not move and that broke it loose. I had already ruined a couple of punches and used a mapp gas torch to heat it up. You can also drill them out if they won't move. The detent pin can be made from steel rod or even a nail of the correct diameter. Some have used a spring out of a Bic pen. www.veriforcetactical.com/gun_accessories/AK47/PRE-BAN%20MUZZLE%20BRAKES/17/ aa-ok.com/AK_Spare_Parts/Spare_Parts.htm www.midwestarmory.com/page6.html globaltrades.com/ak_muzzl_1.html www.k-var.com/shop/home.php?cat=289 dpharms.com/ak47-muzzle-items-c-26.html?osCsid=cf0d34d32564e73e7a51dc69412dc624 |
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Posted: 12/8/2006 12:04:09 PM EDT
[#23]
To name a few... Muzzle nut, slant brake, birdcage, vortex, AK74 brake, 3-prong A1 FH.. I'm sure I'm missing a lot more. Cope's Distributing carries some, and also thedukeryan's place.. I think it's called Midwest Armory? |
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Posted: 12/19/2006 4:28:51 PM EDT
[#24]
Well i dont get the removing the FSb do i have to and why do i need to remove it to pu in something
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Posted: 12/19/2006 4:51:02 PM EDT
[#25]
Do what you have to do. The threading die I had was a type that did not get close enough to the FSB for a slant brake to look right unless I moved the FSB back a bit, in fact the die bottomed out against the FSB with the threads back too far from the FSB. You can see where the threads end in the picture above doing the way I did. It was a die that cut a bevel with one side to start the die on the barrel the other side cut the threads. You have to remove the front cross pin to install a detent pin anyway so why not pull the other pin when it takes less than a minute to do. You don't have to remove the FSB, with the pins out you can slide it back. A correct installation needs a detent pin and if you don't install one you might as well solder the muzzle device on or it will most likely unscrew. I always find it better to do the job right the first time. |
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Posted: 12/19/2006 5:04:42 PM EDT
[#26]
Can i take them out with the pin punch that comes in the cleaning kit and is there a specific way to take it out
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Posted: 12/19/2006 5:06:50 PM EDT
[#27]
I would use a good quality steel punch. Otherwise you will just bend or break them. I start mine moving with a good center punch. If you have wjm's threading kit his die may be different than the Polish one I used.
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Posted: 12/19/2006 5:08:27 PM EDT
[#28]
Yeah i am using wjm's and i dont know if i have any punches wait i'll check
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Posted: 12/19/2006 5:15:27 PM EDT
[#29]
Do you think i can thread it then just put loctite on it to hold in on there and then find a good punch and then do the rest
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Posted: 12/19/2006 5:22:59 PM EDT
[#30]
If you are going to loctite it you will want the type that is high heat resistant. Silver solder and mapp gas would be a better choice but the loctite if the right type should work until you get the detent pin in.
Try threading the barrel and then put whatever muzzle device you want to use on and see if the threads are close enough to the FSB that you will be happy with them. An US AK-74 brake I have actually goes on closer to the FSB than the slant brake will so the device you use may make a difference. Clean the threads off when you are done threading with a wire brush or any stiff brush if you don't have a bronze brush. A bore brush will work, it will clean off remaining chips from the threading. |
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Posted: 12/19/2006 5:25:59 PM EDT
[#31]
Im gonna be using the Loctite from the aa-ok page its the blue kind i dont know and im gonna put a birdcage flash hider on there
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Posted: 12/19/2006 6:48:42 PM EDT
[#32]
Well can i use a Centerpunch to make it budge cuz mine wont move at all, and once i get it moving im gonna use the Punch from the cleaning kit. And wouldnt the Center punch mess up the pin? And one more question what will i all need? im already renting the kit so what do i need other than that and the break?
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Posted: 12/19/2006 6:52:49 PM EDT
[#33]
www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16819&cat=303&page=1
Or you can make one with a nail filed to the same size and shape and a spring out of a ball point pen if you can find one the right size. |
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Posted: 12/28/2006 2:44:14 PM EDT
[#34]
You are not using wjm's threading kit, and you won't be using any of my threading kits. You are one lying little sob. You claim to have two kits that you are renting out on the EE, but you are renting one of my kits to thread your barrel. You need to be kicked of this adult board and go back to playing with your Xbox. |
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Posted: 12/28/2006 3:51:54 PM EDT
[#35]
NO NO NO- put down the center punches and walk away from the gun!
 I did a tutorial on this a while back...... Is no one taking notes? LOL  WJM's kit is good but the tap does bottom out on the FSB so you cannot thread it all the way to the FSB... see pic  what you need to do is put the slant brake in a table vice and grind down the first few threads on the backside of it. What this does is allow you to thread it beyond normal depth and it will seat right against the FSB. I did this with both a WASR and a SAR1 to great success.. After using this...  I got this....  and the final result.......   once again before  after   ANY QUESTIONS??? IM ME 
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Posted: 12/28/2006 4:02:19 PM EDT
[#36]
You may have your way of doing it and I have mine. The pin needs to come out one way or another to install the proper detent pin. What is that attachment called? But the issue of how to do it doesn't seem to be the issue at all in this thread anymore. 
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Posted: 12/28/2006 7:25:31 PM EDT
[#37]
Yes. This works. |
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Posted: 12/28/2006 7:50:46 PM EDT
[#38]
I think that needs to be repeated. mmk |
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Posted: 12/28/2006 8:58:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Bye-bye
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Posted: 12/29/2006 8:58:00 AM EDT
[#40]
We canned him too
Thanks Mak and Raptor22, good job exposing the little rip off. |
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