Quoted: I just made a rivet jig that really is no more than a simple anvil affair out of a piece of 4"x8"flat iron 5/8 thick and another one 2"x4" and a piece of bar stock 13/16th 2" long.First I welded the 2"x4" piece in the middle of the bigger flat on edge then cetered the bar stock on top of the 2" peice the long way for support then put a little blob of weld about 3/4" back from the edge so it will set up in the milled out slots inside the truion. Works great. Did the riveting on the trunion in about ten minutes with a hammer and a rivet set made out of air chisel attachment.
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I don't mean to split hairs, but you didn't make a jig, you made a bucking bar. Just a tip, it's a good idea to polish the surface of the bucking bar that the rivet shank will be pressed against in order to create a uniform shop head.
Another tip: after center punching the surface of the rivet you remove, start with a smaller bit (preferably a #40). Drill about 1/16th below the flush surface. Change your bit to the appropriate size hole and ream the pilot hole. Take a pin punch of the same size as the bit and gently pop the head off. Support the underside of the work area with a wood block, or something equally sturdy and punch the rivet through. You shouldn't have to kill it to get it out. If it's not coming out, drill a little deeper and try again.
The aforementioned method aleviates the probability of elongating the hole.
**One important point to remember** - If you are drilling out steel rivets, use slow speed & heavy feed. If you go full power you're just gonna destroy your drill bit (work harden).
I hope this helps.