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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/3/2006 4:30:44 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/3/2006 6:07:51 AM EST by GPSIG]
Okay, I have searched and searched and I admit I am a dope. Now, how the heck do I get the tantal handguards off? I have removed the roll pin and can turn the screw at the front of the hanguards, but the screw just turns and never goes anywhere. Any help you can give is appreciated. Thanks (my first build, can you tell?)...

Edited for additional questions:

1. Which rivet set do I use to build this? I want whatever is strongest/safest
2. I can't find the pin holding the gas piston to the bolt carrier assembly? Can you give me a hint on how far back from the back of the gas piston and its orientation (I assume horizantal)

Link Posted: 1/3/2006 11:26:37 AM EST
You shouldn't have had to remove anything from the retainer. The roll pin should provide just enough tension to snap into the notches on the "screw" head. It's not really a screw. The opposite end is peened to prevent it from coming out, and there are no threads on it.

The "screw" doesn't come out of the handguard retainer. When you turn the "screw" head, the shaft turns just like a standard AK retainer. When the shaft lines up correctly with the notch in the barrel, the retainer is locked in place. Turned 180 degrees, the shaft will disengage from the notch in the barrel and the retainer can be pushed or pulled forward.

Since you don't know whether the "screw" is in the lock or unlock position now, you will just have to try to pull the retainer forward with the "screw" in both positions. Be careful not to pry against the handguards or you may damage them.

Additional questions:

1. Any rivet set that will work on an underfolder or side folder will work just fine. Don't use the Tapco rivets for an AK build.

2. The gas piston retainer pin is about 3/16" to 1/4" back from the front of the carrier. The ends are peened over and ground flush with the rest of the carrier. Use a bright light and look at the sides of the carrier (3:00 and 9:00 positions) at an angle, and you may be able to see them. You can also try a little WD-40 or mineral spirits down the recoil spring hole of the carrier. The oil should wick around the edges of the pin and outline them.

Link Posted: 1/3/2006 2:26:37 PM EST
Wow, it works great when you know how to do it, Thanks! If you have time, I have another question--it looks like the barrel is held on place by two pins, is that correct? It looks like one only comes out in one direction, the second doesn't look directional. Can you confirm this is correct? Thanks.
Link Posted: 1/3/2006 6:08:00 PM EST
The barrel is only held in by one pin. It's the large pin (approximately 1/4" diameter) that runs through the trunnion.

Here's a K-Var pic of a Romanian AK-74 trunnion. The barrel pin hole is visible on the right.

I haven't looked at my Tantal kit for awhile, but I think the other pin you're referring to isn't actually a pin. One of the changes to the manufacture of the AK was to eliminate pins and holes by pressing a spot on the barrel block to secure them in place. The block that has the rear sight (affectionately known as the Rear Sight Block or RSB), is a separate piece from the trunnion. The trunnion is the block that is riveted into the receiver. The barrel is pinned into the trunnion with the larger pin.

Here's one of K-Var's pictures of an AK-102 barrel.

You can see the shape of the RSB and get an idea of how it interlocks with the trunnion. The RSB on this barrel would be pinned through the hole that is visible.
Link Posted: 1/4/2006 2:32:28 PM EST
Yep, now that you explain it, it is very easy to see what you are saying. Now, to get the barrel pin out, should I try to drift it, or wait and use a press?
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