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Posted: 8/19/2006 11:34:01 AM EDT
Ever since the AWB expired, I have been pondering over a clean method of threading the muzzle and installing a flash suppressor or muzzle brake. After much evaluation, and even trial and error, I have narrowed down two of the "easiest" ways of doing this.

Option 1:
Have someone make a 5/8 x 24 TPI RH thread alignment tool, and use a 5/8 x 24 RH die to thread it for AR10 muzzle accessories. The Vepr K's muzzle OD measures 0.620", perfect for 5/8 x 24 TPI. The problem is getting someone to make the special TAT... Precise Innovations sat on the order for months and months... An AR15..com machinist explained that it wasn't profitable to make these due to the low demand for only a few applications (Uzi, AR10, Vepr).

Option 2:
Have someone turn down the muzzle and thread it for whatever you want. Gunsmithing labor fees can run very high, and since the Vepr isn't a "target/precision rifle", I wanted to try something different.

I bought a 14mm x 1 LH TAT and a 14mm x 1 LH die. I used my WECSOG dremel skills to "turn down the muzzle" to a smaller size (I mic'd it to be around 0.560"-0.590"). The initial chamfer is very important, make sure to get it close to 0.554" but slightly more is OK since you can opt to remove more material later.

Since my die did not have a "flat side" that would cut threads all the way to the FSB, I improvized and opened up the ID of an AR15 peel washer so that it would fill in the gap between the FSB and the muzzle device. This bypasses the need to shave the muzzle device or remove the FSB. In the end, it worked like a charm.

Everyone said I had to turn down the muzzle OD close to 14mm on a lathe but the die itself can cut down the material (just takes a bit longer and more patience).

Link Posted: 8/19/2006 1:36:50 PM EDT
Someone send me the plans for the thread alignment tool...I will make one or two....And how did you manage to turn down the muzazle with a dremel? Just sand around it and around it?...You got the mad machinist skills bro...

The reason that its such a hassle to thread the barrell. correctly is because on order to fit it in a lathe and not take a chance of bending the barrell is you would have to remoce the barrell from the reciever and the gas block and front sight to get in in the lathe...I have been trying to design a tool that can be used to turn down a muzzle without pulling the barrell....But i have had to put it on the back burner due to excessive school and work schedule...
Link Posted: 8/19/2006 1:49:22 PM EDT
I've been thinking about putting a flash suppressor on my Vepr the right way (threaded muzzle, NOT with cheesy set-screws). It's been eating away at me ever since I got the Vepr... day and night, it was in the corner of my mind, screaming "thread me!" I don't really like paying people to do the work for me, since I feel a tighter connection to stuff that I work on myself.

I hear you on the lathe - it'd be a PITA to remove the barrel, but if I had a TAT for the 5/8-24 RH threading, it'd be a 5 minute job. I'm surprised Robinson didn't just do this after the AWB expired.

My WECSOG method of turning down the barrel was to use an endmill bit (flat top, so it doesn't chew away the FSB) and remove material in parallel to the bore (so the flat top might kiss the FSB but not hurt it).  ETA: I used a dremel for this. Not for the faint of heart or impatient, but it is do-able.

I had originally cut 5/8-24 threads but took a gamble and didn't use a TAT. I learned that this wasn't a smart idea... so this time around I ended up just removing the old threads and removing additional material. With the 14mm x 1 LH TAT and die, I cut very straight threads and the flash suppressor is straight when installed (contacts the peel washer evenly, and I verified the bullet shouldn't hit the muzzle device).

For a 7.62x39 Vepr K, the TAT pilot end should be 0.298"-0.299" (I can measure my TAT again to make sure) and if you want the easy route, just go with 5/8" - 24 TPI RH threading so you can use Uzi/AR10 muzzle devices. The Vortex for the AR10 is expensive ($70+) but should be a nice addition to a Vepr. YHM has Phantoms in 5/8-24 that are about $30.

I originally wanted to install a brake to cut down on the muzzle climb, but the flash suppressor doesn't need to be timed and should eliminate the fireball I see in broad daylight. With 14mm x 1 LH, I can use the slant brake or the AK-74 US brake.

I am not sure if the muzzle OD measures the same for the 5.45x39, 5.56x45, and .308 Vepr Ks or the Vepr IIs (20" barrels).
Link Posted: 8/19/2006 3:00:38 PM EDT
TAT dimensions (for 14mm x 1 LH):
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 5:18:42 AM EDT
WOW, that is rediculously easy.....Man If you would have posted I would have hooked you up....For a miniscule fee. basically I would have made of the 25 or so bucks that the die cost....anyone else need one? If you guys need something Like that made let me know. If it is simple I can make it as school...The only problem is that we dont have odd taps and dies, like anything left hand......I may just buy the taps and dies and start making them for all calibers and threads....
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 5:32:03 AM EDT
Actually, I did ask about a custom TAT on AR15.com's AK forums awhile back but didn't get any bites.

There is one slight problem on the Veprs... The muzzle only extends about 0.485" from the FSB. On typical AKs, they have around 0.625" to work with, so there are more threads to secure the muzzle device. In addition, non-Veprs can also have plungers installed to time the muzzle devices. These are just some slight caveats which I considered before going with something that doesn't need to be timed.
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 9:59:46 PM EDT
Looks good.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 5:24:04 PM EDT
If you're not bound and determined to do it by threading, here's how I mounted a muzzle brake on my PTR91.  I was given a muzzle brake by another PTR owner who had mistakenly bored out a press fit brake about .003" oversize.  I stripped the paint from the end of the barrel, degreased the barrel and brake, and used Loctite 620 to secure the muzzle to the brake.  620 is high strength and high heat tolerant, I think it will do the job.  I read a pdf file (google Loctite 620) about a company using 620 to assemble shotgun barrels.  It's made for a slip fit application, so the .003" should be fine.  To keep the loctite from fouling the muzzle or crown, apply a band maybe 1/8" wide just below the muzzle, all the way around the barrel.  Place the brake over the barrel, rotate while seating to spread the loctite, and stand the gun upright for an hour to let it cure.  I'm thinking of doing the same for my VEPR.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 5:44:53 PM EDT
I would like info on where to aquire the TAT and Die for the same project on an Arsenal SA93 Barrel.
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