together. How are they holding up? How many rounds total so far, and have you noticed any loosening of the trunnions?

I'm finished with the threading of the trunnions on my K-VAR Bulgie 74, now I'm waiting for the receiver from OOW. I ended up going with 5mm buttonhead screws, seemed the best choice for tapping based on the trunnion rivet hole diameters. I'm taking dig. pics. at each step and plan on posting them on Webshots. I'll get ya the link when it's all set up.

Let me know how your screwed kits are holding up!

Two, 400 and 900 rounds.  Just fine. Screws locked with epoxy on one, loctite on the other. None have worked loose.

mg34ss, did you dimple the receiver screw holes to fit into the countersink holes of the trunnions? Or is your receiver a flush fit to the trunnion? After drilling and tapping for 5mm and 6mm screws there is not much of a countersink left. If I try to drill more of a countersink then I start taking away threads. Was just wondering how solid of a fit I'm going to get with a flush receiver to trunnion setup. I was also debating using a Locktite designed for pressfit parts between the receiver and trunnion to help hold things together, then standard Red locktight for the screw threads.

The holes in one AK were flush so the reciever tighted up, you can fill the countersink with JB weld or dimple the reciever into the countersink and fill that, of course your are leaving room to screw, some folks in the past discussed turning down a small washer or the rear of the screwhead.
locklite red is fine so is JB weld, never tried epoxy (sure it would work, but the reason for the blue loctite is allow you to replace the whole front unit. But, if you desire a solid locked screw use JB, I never considered a adhesive for between the rec. and trunnion as you will need every mm to get screw depth(on one side the screws are short

sprat

forget rivets screw ak's

The Locktite for press fits must be really thin to be used on solid bearings or bushings, so I still think the receiver would snug down tight. A friend of mine that builds robots for the Defense industry said this stuff sets up quick and is pretty much permanent It's just an idea anyway.

I think the receiver to trunnion fit gets a lot of it's shear strength from the dimples. If I slip back on the remnants of the receiver to either the fwd or aft trunnions on my Bulgie 74 kit, the dimples hold very tight.

I've tried drilling holes in the old Bulgie receiver to try out different methods of creating this dimple, but the metal is very hard. And I don't want to pound or try to peen the metal down using the trunnion as a mold for fear of damaging the trunnion. I could be wrong.

I guess I'll have to wait till my OOW receiver gets here to see how hard the metal is, then decide from there. I just hope the receiver screw holes don't start to elongate from the recoil, especially the rear trunnion since this takes the most stress during firing.

These are just ideas I'm kicking around while waiting for my receiver to arrive, I want this project to be a rifle I can enjoy for years to come, not something I'll have to send out later down the road to have someone doctor up my mistakes!