I don't know where to begin...

I had a problem with my Century trigger group in my Romanian SAR-1 AK-47. It would occasionally double fire. The disconnector, if released very very slowly, would release the hammer which would slip past the sear. In otherwords, either the disconnector or the sear wasn't getting enough length on the hammer. This isn't uncommon with low-quality Century trigger groups and the most recommended solution is getting a Tapco G2 trigger group to replace it.

Today I received and installed my Tapco G2 single hook trigger group in my AK-47. The trigger pull was extremely short. I mean, as soon as you START pulling it, CLICK! It is also fairly light. Anyway, it wasn't a safe combination by any means.

So it turns out the trigger group wasn't fitting quite perfectly in the trigger well (which had rounded corners). I fixed this by rounding off the corners of the base of the G2 trigger with a file. The trigger group now sits perfectly in the trigger well and doesn't touch any of the sides. Because the trigger could rotate forward more, this also fixed the issue with the length of pull. The trigger pull became longer.

However, now I have the following problem: if I let go of the trigger (to cancel a shot for example) it does not go all the way forward again. Apparently there is a lot of friction on the sear and the hammer. I think the problem has something to do with the G2 sear because I swapped parts and it doesn't matter which hammer I use (G2 or original Century), the G2 sear continues to get stuck up. On the otherhand, the Century sear runs smoothly with both the G2 and Century hammers.

What should I do? Needless to say I am very frustrated. I've been spending the last 3 hours trying to fix this. Filing edges, swapping out parts, nothing seems to work.

Please help me!

Quoted: I don't know where to begin... Today I received and installed my Tapco G2 single hook trigger group in my AK-47. The trigger pull was extremely short. I mean, as soon as you START pulling it, CLICK! It is also fairly light. Anyway, it wasn't a safe combination by any means.

I pulled out 3 of my AKs to check how they worked.  One has a K-VAR trigger group in it, one is a G2 that I have polished and the last is a US most likely Hesse that I have never worked on.  The K-VAR and Hesse both have a long trigger pull.  They K-VAR is gritty as it hasn't been fired much and when you take the trigger up halfway you can release it and it will return.

The Hesse has a pretty crisp hammer release when the trigger is pulled.

The G2 in the third rifle I have polished the contact surfaces and it is so smooth that you can't really tell when you are halfway to let the trigger release and return forward.  So, I went and pulled out a couple more AKs which I know have either Jerry Gordon G-Tech or Tapco G2 FCG's in them and tried them out.  One has had a polish job the other hasn't.  Both are short crisp trigger pulls.  

I believe they were designed this way.  Yes, you do sometimes have to file the lower part of the trigger to fit into the receiver slot/s.  This was normal with the original G-Tech FCG as I talked to Jerry Gordon about it some years ago.  

If you polish the surfaces of your FCG it will smooth it up as far as releasing the trigger and letting it go forward.  You can do this with a dremel using a cotton bullet shaped polishing attachment alone or even with some polishing compound, not an abrasive rubbing compound as it may affect the heat treatment.  Instructions can be found here on linx310's site

As for short stroking the trigger as you mentioned.  That is unsafe with any firearm and is not recommended for the reason you mentioned, it is unsafe.  


Dupe, you posted this question 3 times on one day.

Dupe x 4