The long take-up is part of the design and really shouldn’t be changed much. A common mistake is to shorten the length of the primary hook in an attempt to shorten the trigger pull. This can come to no good. Amoung other things it creates the possibity for the trigger hook to not catch the hammer when it is released by the disconnector. The rifle would then fire unexpectedly. The purpose of the disconnector is to hold the hammer back until the trigger hook is in position to snag the hammer as the trigger is released after a shot.
The best thing to do is to turn it into a double stage trigger. You can make the first stage as smooth as a babies bottom if you polish the rubbing surface on the hammer. Polishing the hook is not usually needed. On a microscopic scale, the rubbing part of the hammer surface is very bumpy as it comes from the factory. Once you get the surface flattened, the pull will be smooth. I use a small diamond file and always work back and forth in the direction of the hook travel. You will need to take off a tiny bit of the surface, but that is OK. Just don’t change any angles or round off the edges. Once you have that done, the purpose of the mod pictured above is to give a well-defined let off point. When set up right, the disconnector will contact the hammer just before the trigger hook releases the hammer. The contact with the disconnector hook provides resistance at the let off point. As this resistance is overcome, the trigger will feel like it snapped all at once. These make very nice two stage triggers once you do these mods. Hope this helps.
P.S. Go easy on the disconnector mod. If you go too far, the disconnector will never release. Then you will have to take some off the disconnector hook or the back edge of the hammer where the disconnector holds it. You might want to experiment on a scrap FCG until you get the feel of how much to take off.