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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 7/25/2005 10:51:28 AM EDT
Both Ammoman and Sportsman Guide have 147/148GR 7.62x54r Russian/Polish/Czech ammo that is listed as corrosive. I thought I had heard that you neutralize it with ammonia. If that is true, doesn't that cause crazing with a chrome lined barrel? How do you deal with this? Also, some of the ammo is listed as Silver tip LPS. What does LPS stand for?
Link Posted: 7/25/2005 12:51:05 PM EDT
I would not buy corrosive ammo, it is not worth the hassle.
Link Posted: 7/25/2005 12:52:59 PM EDT
So can you point me to some 7.62x54r 147/148GR non-corrosive. I would like to use Wolf, but it is a little to hard to find right now.
Link Posted: 7/25/2005 12:57:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/25/2005 12:59:29 PM EDT by repub18]
What kind of rifle are you using?

said to be non corrosive www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=195727
Link Posted: 7/25/2005 3:13:27 PM EDT
Romak III. I saw that ammo too, but it is a little more that I want to put through a Romak III.
Link Posted: 7/25/2005 4:01:36 PM EDT
Windex. A patch or two covered in windex, then clean normally. You'll want to take care of the gas system the same way. That's it. No rocket science, no drama. Just the way things were done before these fancy-schmancy "non-corrosive" primers. The chrome bore properly cared for will outlast you most likely.

Shit, get the store brand windex for $2. Then grab some of the DIRT CHEAP Czech or Polish silver tip 147gr. and have a blast. I'm working through some of the Czech stuff from the '60s and it shoots right for me. No rust on my guns yet

Link Posted: 7/26/2005 12:37:51 AM EDT
Corrosive ammo is not really a problem. It is just that you have to clean your rifle when you get home from the range.
Running a patch or two down the bore with windex on them is not going to cut it!
That is unless you have a bolt action rifle.
With a semi auto rifle you have to feild strip the rifle and clean all the parts that gas comes into contact with. Bolt,bolt carrier,inside the receiver,all gas system parts,and the barrel. Even the muzzle brake. I have been using CLP to clean and protect all my firearms since the late 1980's. It works real good on the corrosive residue from corrosive ammo. It doesn't disolve the corrosive residue but takes it into solution so it can be rinsed out with brake parts cleaner.
This is how I clean AK/SKS rifles. I use CLP on all my firearms. I don't know the size of the gas tube on a Romak III so you will have to figure that out for yourself.

Go to Wal-mart and get from these depts.

Sporting goods dept.
A pump spray bottle of Break-Free CLP www.break-free.com/
A 30cal and a 20 gauge bore brushes

Automotive dept.
A can of brake parts cleaner
A set of brushes or brush with brass or steel brissles. like this

Housewares dept.
roll of paper towels

Drug dept.
A new tooth brush.

When you get home swap out your new tooth brush for your old one.Spray down all the parts of your rifle with CLP and let it sit for 15 minuites. Use your old tooth brush to scrub the inside of the receiver and parts. Use the brass/steel brush on the gas piston. It will take several applications of CLP and scrubbing to get heavy amounts of carbon off the gas piston. A wire wheel in a electric drill can be used to cut down on the amount of scrubbing needed. Use the 30cal brush on the bore and the 20 gauge brush on the gas tube/gas block. Once clean put 4 paper towels in the bottom of the bag you brought the stuff home from Wal-mart in. Hold the parts over the bag and use the brake parts cleaner to rinse everything off. Brake parts cleaner removes everything and leaves no residue. Spray a 4"x4" piece of rag and one patch with CLP. Rub the rag on every part inside and out to lube/protect it and run the patch through the bore. Put the rag and patch in a zip lock bag to use the next time you clean your rifle. Make sure to wipe the gas piston and the inside of the gas tube and gas block. The CLP will get into the pores of the metal and not let the carbon stick tight. So the next time you clean your rifle the brass/steel brissle brush will not be needed only the tooth brush. Take the bag with the paper towels which have absorbed all the brake parts cleaner and dirt outside or in the garage to let the bpc evaporate then throw it away.

The only thing I can add concerning cleaning a Romak III would be to get a GI M-16 long receiver cleaning brush to do the muzzle brake with.

Link Posted: 7/26/2005 7:00:10 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 4:07:38 PM EDT
JA545, Thanks for that info! Im printing this one up! Heres a novice question, what makes ammo corrosive? I have some old .308 ammo that has some green residue on in and also had some red box .22 ammo that also had all kinds of residue all over it ,Im assuming thats corrosive? Also do the Arsenal rifles have chrome? Didn't meen to hijack your thread ASNixon
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 4:09:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/6/2005 4:10:23 PM EDT by repub18]

Originally Posted By BillC:
JA545, Thanks for that info! Im printing this one up! Heres a novice question, what makes ammo corrosive? I have some old .308 ammo that has some green residue on in and also had some red box .22 ammo that also had all kinds of residue all over it ,Im assuming thats corrosive? Also do the Arsenal rifles have chrome? Didn't meen to hijack your thread ASNixon

It should really be said "corrosive primer" it has nothing to do with the bullet, casing or powder. afaik
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 5:43:09 AM EDT
I had zero luck with Windex and corrosive ammo. The only thing I've found that works is a strong ammonia cleaner, such as Sweets 762. Don't leave in the bore more than say 5-10 minutes. Clean everywhere the gas could have gone; even the inside of the receiver. I had a gas tube really rust fast using just Windex. Between the corrosive as hell Yugoslav and E German ammo, it's really pitted badly.

I now avoid any ammo that is corrosive.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 8:12:56 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 8:15:51 AM EDT
Potassium Chlorate is used in the primer compound and once the primer goes off the residue of the potassim chlorate is what makes the ammo corrosive. The residue absorbs water from the air and forms a very weak acid. The acid speeds up the iron in the steel of the firearm combining with oxygen to form rust. As with all chemical reactions the higher the tempature the quicker the reaction occurs. Also the higher the humidity of the air the more water is available for the chemical reaction. In the winter when the temp/humidity are low it may takes weeks for enough rust to form for you to notice it. But in the summer with the high temps/humidity it may only take a few hours for enough rust to form to be noticeable.
The green corrosion on brass is commonly called Verdigris basicly it is the copper in the brass oxdizing like rust on steel. The 308 ammo can be tumbled or wiped with a rag to remove the green corrosion but should be checked for pits. Small pits that are not deep are no problem but deep ones could result in the brass cracking when fired. Due to the 22LR ammo having lead bullets with lube on them tumbling would remove this so they will have to be wiped off with a rag.
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