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Posted: 3/13/2009 9:58:21 PM EST
I got my Arsenal Saiga SGL20 and it came with the muzzel nut screwed on. It comes with 24mm threads. I bought the K-VAR AK74 style brake with 24 mm threads for the AK47 to put on. The brake was like 80 bucks too. It won't fit! WTF?! I thought it was 24mm threads. I can't screw it on.....I can only get maybe one turn and that's as far as it will go. What gives?
Link Posted: 3/14/2009 1:46:32 AM EST
Originally Posted By FChen17213:
I got my Arsenal Saiga SGL20 and it came with the muzzel nut screwed on. It comes with 24mm threads. I bought the K-VAR AK74 style brake with 24 mm threads for the AK47 to put on. The brake was like 80 bucks too. It won't fit! WTF?! I thought it was 24mm threads. I can't screw it on.....I can only get maybe one turn and that's as far as it will go. What gives?


Might have to chase the threading on the SGL20.

The SGL20 was threaded on Russian equipment after who knows how many others on the same tool head. (Causing over sized threading)

The K-VAR (I'm assuming your getting a US break) was machined to close American specs on the 24mm.

You might be able to just use a little extra elbow grease to get it on.



There is also a slight chance that one or the other aren't threaded 24mm so you should verify first.

You can get a 24mm nut and bolt at most hardware stores for under $1 the nut threads on the barrel you know the barrel is good, if the bolt threads into the break then the break is good.
Link Posted: 3/14/2009 11:14:16 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/14/2009 11:14:29 AM EST by kurgie]
Ah ha! Someone else besides me. I actually tried to put the muzzle brake from an SGL10 on an SGL20 and it would only screw on half way. WTF is up with that? I mailed Arsenal but never heard anything back from them. Is this some kind of retarded 24.1x1.58 threading, I mean wth?
Link Posted: 3/14/2009 1:19:14 PM EST
Ok, I went over to a friend's house who has an AK74. We switched brakes and it went on fine. Thus, it's the KVAR brake that is messed up. We oiled the threads heavily and then screwed it on as tight as we could. I think I might have screwed the gun up in the process. Although I got the brake on with considerable force, I might have stripped the threads. I saw tiny metal shavings come out in the slot on the final turn. I"m probably not going to mess with it any more. It's on tight as a vise, made it down far enough to lock in the detent, and not going anywhere. That's good enough for me.
Link Posted: 3/14/2009 1:22:45 PM EST
Also, I'm not all that satisfied with this rifle for an $850 gun. The workmanship is certainly better than a WASR but it's no where the level of quality as my Polytech Legend. The trigger to gritty, heavy, and the safety is on tight enough that you need to use considerable force just to flick it on or off safe.

If the brake comes off, I guess I might have to get a new FSB since I'm sure the threads are messed up.
Link Posted: 3/29/2009 9:46:27 AM EST
But the Legend runs about $1,500 to as much as $2,500 for a used rifle no less. So I don't think it's a fair comparison. Beyond fit and finish, have you tested them both for accuracy, performance, ammo feeding choice (mil surplus, etc.) and ergonomics?
Link Posted: 3/30/2009 2:30:07 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/30/2009 2:30:50 PM EST by deadduck357]
There were some K-var 74 type brakes that had out of spec threading, I called them and talked with them about this and was told they were aware of this, so I ordered one and told them it was going on a SGL20 and make sure its got good threads, got it in and it went on just fine, very nice brake.
Link Posted: 3/30/2009 2:43:24 PM EST
I just got a reply back from KVAR. Return it to where it was purchased and have them return it,and they will send a different one.
Link Posted: 4/1/2009 10:56:05 AM EST
I had the same problem with mine, ipon inspection i found that the ID of the break "" the smooth part just inside the threads""" was to small and binding on the smooth part of the FSB. I opend mine up with a fine dremel sanding bit and now it goes on and off like it should. That was what was wrong with mine break. And to think that these rifles are had fitted "BS" I almost couldn't even get mine break to unscrew from the rifle rite out of the box, so i bet it was a bitch for arsenal to put it on to begin with.

Link Posted: 4/2/2009 4:24:34 AM EST
I found out the same,one or both are out of spec,I was able to switch mine with another one and it fit,but very snug once it was half on.The unthreaded parts definately seem to be out of spec,not the threads.
Link Posted: 4/2/2009 5:09:32 PM EST
OK, I was worried but I just got my brake from K-Var and it fits like a glove. It's funny because the one from my SGL-10 didn't fit. Oh well.
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 4:39:29 PM EST
I, too, could not get my K-Var brake to fit my SGL-20...but I do not see my particular problem/solution listed in this post, so I'll add it, for posterity's sake. Perhaps my experience might help.

My SGL-20 came with the "muzzle protector nut", rather than the cool AK74-style brake. As soon as I got the rifle home, I knew that the first accessory I had to order was a brake for my gun.

Got it from K-Var, and though it was expensive, it was a very nicely machined piece. I screwed off the muzzle nut, and attempted to screw on the brake...without much luck. It would thread on about 1/3 of the way, and simply lock up. My first impulse was to email K-Var, and express my dissatisfaction. But then I carefully re-read their product description:

"The consistent and precision cut 24x1.5mm right-hand threads eliminate the wobbly effect common with other units. The compensator remains rock solid even if the incorrectly cut threads on your front sight block do not allow it to screw on flush with the wall of the block."

So, basically, my front sight base is probably crappy, and it's cool if the break does not screw on the whole way?

So, my angle of attack became to thoroughly inspect and measure their brake...and find fault if I could. Turns out that I could not. Their thread pitch was correct. The minor and major diameters were fine. Concentricity checked out, too. That left me wondering about the bore diameter of the brake (the smooth "female" section that comes AFTER the threads, heading toward the muzzle end of the brake). Perhaps it was too small, and thus it would not slide over the "male" part of my front sight base.

Nope. The Brake's bore was actually several thousandths bigger than the front sight's Outer Diameter (the part right at the muzzle, before the threads), leaving plenty of room for it to screw on.

So it must be the threads on the Front Sight Base? Nope. They were fine, too. Pitch was fine, and the major diameter was actually a bit undersized, which should result in a rather loose fit with the brake's threads.

Then I noticed something important on the sight base's Outside Diameter....there were thread scars being left on it, from the brake's threads. Turns out the front sight base's OD was not concentric with its own threads. In other words, the Front Sight Base's OD was not perfectly centered with the bore, and had an out-of-round high spot, much like a camshaft. It was only a few thousandths, but that's was enough to prevent my brake from screwing on.

So, I looked to see where the brake's threads had left marks on the FSB. It was a section that covered about 7 to 11 o'clock. I got out my trusty (and very fine) file, and filed only the area with the thread scars, just until the thread marks vanished. Then I took a blue sharpie marker, and covered the inside of the brake, and the OD of my FSB with blue ink. Screwed on my brake, and looked for areas that rubbed off to identify high spots that might still be binding.

The brake screwed on about 3/4 of the way now, and after removing it, I could tell which parts of the FSB were still a little high. One more pass with the file, and a little fine sandpaper, and the brake then screwed on completely.

The problem was, indeed, with the FSB. The machining was so nice on the K-Var brake, I didn't want to mess with it unless I was sure it was at fault. I would also caution everyone to take extra care not to cross-thread their brake! It is VERY easy to do.

Hopefully my experience will give anyone else with a stuck break, one more place to look for a solution. The brake works perfectly, and accuracy has not been affected in any way.
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