If your talking about the disconnector/safety sear (the small hook with spring that keeps tension on it and grabs the hammer when you pull the bolt carrier to the rear with the trigger pulled back, you may need to take a bit off the front of the hook part so that it will release the hammer and pass it to the main trigger hook(s) (sorry for the long run on sentence). First make sure all the parts are in -- disconnector spring, sleeve (unless the trigger and disconnector fit snugly on the axis pin meaning your FCG doesn't use the sleeve),etc...
I usually turn single stage triggers on AK's into two stages. On two, I took too much metal off the disconnector trying to rotate it Fwd and it wouldn't let go of the hammer like your describing. Filed the hook part of the disconnector to shorten it (Make sure it stays squared up). Then when you release the trigger it lets go sooner. You could also epoxy (I like JB weld) up where the disconnector stops its fwd travel on the trigger I JB'd a small steel shim on another of my "mistakes", although building up with a MIG may have been preferable -- the JB holds and the trigger is sweet. This will keep the disc. further back and release the hammer sooner too -- accomplishes the same thing.
The FCG that came with your kit is most likely not US made, so if your counting the FCG to make up part of your domestic count you should probably get a new FCG.
If you have extra cash try the Redstar Arms tiggers, they are the crispest trigger for an AK I have ever seen. If money is an object, The FSE and G2 ones can be smoothed up very nicely too.
heThe FP does freefloat on the AKM and AK74.