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Posted: 10/7/2004 3:27:43 AM EST
I completly assembled my rifle last night, to make sure it was working just to dissassemble it for the refinish,question 1. when cycling the charging bolt the dissconnector would grab the hammer and not let it fall on the firing pin. After removing the dissconnector the damn thing works fine. Should I leave it out or try to figure why it doesn't need one ( or does it need one). #2 should the firing pin be spring loaded in the bolt? Mine "free floats" in the in the bolt. Thanks guys

P.S. I'm using the stock fire control group.
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 3:39:52 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/7/2004 4:37:21 AM EST by mr_wilson]
oops wrong topic
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 4:05:01 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/7/2004 9:01:56 AM EST by LtRon]
Mr Wilson, Respectfully
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 7:01:42 AM EST
LtRon,

If you leave the disconnecter out, you will have a runaway slamfire machine on your hands.

How are you making your parts count correct, if you are using the stock FCG?
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 8:15:46 AM EST
The disconnector holds the hammer back until the trigger is released and engages the hammer(semi auto), or it is tripped by the auto sear (automatic).
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 8:37:02 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:09:41 AM EST
The dissconnector isn't releasing the hammer. I can physicaly move it back with my finger until it clicks and the trigger works correctly, but until I do that I can squeez the trigger until dooms day and it won't trip. By stock, I'm using the FCG that came with the weapon. I'm assuming there American parts. I do have 2 parts left over that I can't identify in my assembly instructions. One is a large spring (not the dissconnector spring) and a small metal piece I really can't describe. I could get a pic and maybe one of you guys could id it?
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 9:55:42 AM EST

Originally Posted By LtRon:
I'm using the FCG that came with the weapon. I'm assuming there American parts. I do have 2 parts left over that I can't identify in my assembly instructions. One is a large spring (not the dissconnector spring) and a small metal piece I really can't describe. I could get a pic and maybe one of you guys could id it?



It sounds like you are talking about the Shepard's crook and auto trip sear (aka rate reducer)

Ron it sounds like you have the original FA FCG.
Keep in mind, 922r did not sunset, if you have more than 10 imported parts in this rifle, you are a Felon.
Do not assume you have US parts, because it sounds like you don't
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 10:21:03 AM EST
Auto trip sear, maybe anywhere I could find a pic of one? Definately not the shepards crook I can id that (BTW I'm using "E clips") I'm going to look somemore to try to find some more info, also the play in the trigger/dissconnector on the axis pin is awful, is this to be expected?
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 10:24:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/7/2004 10:25:15 AM EST by LtRon]
Mark, Thanks Pal, thats good to know. Where are you located? where do you guys shoot?
Link Posted: 10/7/2004 10:29:22 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/8/2004 4:05:15 AM EST

Originally Posted By LtRon:
Auto trip sear, maybe anywhere I could find a pic of one? Definately not the shepards crook I can id that (BTW I'm using "E clips") I'm going to look somemore to try to find some more info, also the play in the trigger/dissconnector on the axis pin is awful, is this to be expected?



I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you have the "large hole" disconnector and trigger that require a bushing to fit onto their pin properly. Without that thin steel tube, there'll probably be enough play in the disconnector so that it won't function properly.

The last kits I bought (AMD-63 and AMD-65) both had these included with them, but without the bushing.

BTW, if you have what I think you have, they are semi-automatic, but are NOT U.S. parts.

Also, your free-floating firing pin is fine. Only the Chinese put springs in them. Both types work.

-Rich
Link Posted: 10/8/2004 7:17:01 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/8/2004 7:20:59 AM EST by avatarhammer]
If your talking about the disconnector/safety sear (the small hook with spring that keeps tension on it and grabs the hammer when you pull the bolt carrier to the rear with the trigger pulled back, you may need to take a bit off the front of the hook part so that it will release the hammer and pass it to the main trigger hook(s) (sorry for the long run on sentence). First make sure all the parts are in -- disconnector spring, sleeve (unless the trigger and disconnector fit snugly on the axis pin meaning your FCG doesn't use the sleeve),etc...

I usually turn single stage triggers on AK's into two stages. On two, I took too much metal off the disconnector trying to rotate it Fwd and it wouldn't let go of the hammer like your describing. Filed the hook part of the disconnector to shorten it (Make sure it stays squared up). Then when you release the trigger it lets go sooner. You could also epoxy (I like JB weld) up where the disconnector stops its fwd travel on the trigger I JB'd a small steel shim on another of my "mistakes", although building up with a MIG may have been preferable -- the JB holds and the trigger is sweet. This will keep the disc. further back and release the hammer sooner too -- accomplishes the same thing.

The FCG that came with your kit is most likely not US made, so if your counting the FCG to make up part of your domestic count you should probably get a new FCG.

If you have extra cash try the Redstar Arms tiggers, they are the crispest trigger for an AK I have ever seen. If money is an object, The FSE and G2 ones can be smoothed up very nicely too.heThe FP does freefloat on the AKM and AK74.
Link Posted: 10/8/2004 6:02:06 PM EST
put saftey selector all the way down
into semi , with stock trigger group
F pos. ( middle ) is full auto.
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