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Posted: 12/30/2006 9:23:14 PM EDT
    Ok guys my question....what is the best finish out there for my AK....I have a vector arms AK47 but want a better finish put on her, I live in a area that gets VERY humid, all guns and rifles are placed in a safe with a few desi paks inside

   

    Have a sig 220 with the Robar NP3 finish and absolutely love it...dont think  iwill ever have to worry about rust issues with that, was thinking to NP3 the AK :) but the nickle finish may look a bit ghetto.....I want something as good as NP3 and as corrosive resistant as the NP3 finish....but black, anyone know anything about there ROGUARD finish??  remember I am in a humid area, clean rifles always after I shoot, but noticed last time I placed rifle in safe next day there was a little rust on handle from finger print.....Do not want that.....so what say you??   prices and names of establishments mucho appreciated.


   
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 9:41:58 PM EDT
semi gloss black molyresin or duracoat over the factory parkerized finish
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 10:30:55 PM EDT
ok why moly resin and duracoat?  are they the same or better than NP3?  also would like the rifle I think bead blasted and then coated......any recommendations for people who do finishes? and what is price?    ok what other suggestions?   remember give me reasons why it so good   who does the work also   thanks :)
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 10:45:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/30/2006 10:47:36 PM EDT by TacticalOpsAR]
read the info about molresin here, i have no experience with NP3 www.molyresin.com/molyresin_about.asp  most people do not BEAD blast for paint prep, they MEDIA/SAND blast.. but it it was me i would molyresin over the park, it is a proven combo. www.mcarms.com offers the service for $150.

duracoat is an industrial epoxy type paint, a nicer looking finish but wont hold up to very harsh solvents or heat  as well as molyresin.

Link Posted: 12/30/2006 11:46:40 PM EDT
it's an AK shoot it, clean it now and again. have fun with it not a museum piece.
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 4:56:55 AM EDT
not meant to be a MUSEUM piece, just looking for a tough durable finish but thanks for your answer


keep the good answers coming fellas :)
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 6:09:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By survivorman:
not meant to be a MUSEUM piece, just looking for a tough durable finish



I hear you. My safe is not a museum, but I don't want stuff RUSTING in there, for Pete's sake.

Reminds me of old-school bikers I've met who leave their Harleys parked in the rain, 'cause "only a FAGGOT would park his bike in a garage!"
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 6:35:00 AM EDT
exactly....some people may have hundreds of dollars to piss away on a rifle and have rust up on them, because hey its JUST an AK, just shoot it......but I work to hard for my money to have a care free attitude like some people


so guys any other suggestions for finishes?  anyone know anything about Roguard?  how does it compare to molyresin and duracoat......also saw gunkote?  whats that all about thanks fellas
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 7:31:04 AM EDT
I've used gunkote on quite a few rifles and it seems to hold up to everything so far.Its easy to do yourself too.
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 7:32:07 AM EDT

For Corrosion Resistance the most practical option is one of the High Tech "Paint"
finishes ON TOP of a good solid parkerizing.

While all paint finishes will show abrasion marks , and may chip if banged around,
this combination will be EXTREMELY resistant to normal corrosion.

Several companies specialize in polymer type coatings in various colors.
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 7:35:49 AM EDT
and these companies would be?
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 7:41:19 AM EDT

Originally Posted By TacticalOpsAR:
semi gloss black molyresin or duracoat over the factory parkerized finish


Molyresin over park. I do it at home. Baking the molyresin is the hard part. Also starting with an extremely clean surface.
Link Posted: 12/31/2006 8:47:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/31/2006 8:48:13 AM EDT by eddiein1984]
Here is my low cost option: Dupli-Color High Heat exhaust manifold paint.  I refinished my Saiga in this stuff, and it is awesome.  Very resistant to solvents, doesn't scratch, seems very durable.  I does have to be baked for 2 hours at 300 degrees, but the result is worth it.  A can cost about $4.
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