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Posted: 8/26/2005 4:37:24 PM EDT
I just watched the AGI video about assembling a kit. They used the barrel for a bucking block when installing the front trunnion rivets. Has anyone tried this method? It looks super simple. Is it a reasonably good method?
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 12:39:04 AM EDT
Did that method have smashed looking rivit heads ? I often wondered the same thing.
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 2:52:11 AM EDT
No, not really. They used a rivet setting tool that looked like a punch. It had a concave end on the tool that left a rounded rivet.
After they had the rivets all set, they dressed the heads down with a sander. Actually, the rivets looked pretty good when finished.
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 1:08:23 PM EDT
you have to pull the barrel to remove the rivets and drill the holes anyway
Link Posted: 8/27/2005 1:15:25 PM EDT
I have already pulled the barrel and removed all of the trunnion rivets. I'm thinking the AGI method is kinda hokey. I would like to be able to inspect the finished rivets before I re-install the barrel.
I saw a rivet press that worked with an arbor press at one time, but I can't find it now. It was different than plinkers press.
It also seems that some folks have breakage problems with modified bolt cutter tools. Is there another riveting tool that I can build? I have access to metal fabricating equipment and am fairly experienced in fabrication, just new to AK's.
Link Posted: 8/31/2005 9:05:39 PM EDT
I've built 5 now by AGI method and the only thing i changed was i got a rivit bucking bar from Tandy's leather store for about $6-$7. they make perfect round heads just like originals. I built my own bending jig from drawings, it took a month on my mini-mill but it works perfectly if you follow tape instructions just don't beat it to death its 4140 steel and easly workhardens. I also make my own swelled head rivits for rear trunions as i haven't found a satisfactory one. I use mild still rod (3/32) welding rod if i remember right, then i have a heavy piece of steel with round nose mill indentation make the rivit extend out about 1/4 in or a little more both sides set one side on block other side in bucking bar and set the rivit. when you turn it over it already has head started and just requires a little more riviting. sorry about long winded answer but i see lots of people fighting that rivit problem and it's not a problem.
Link Posted: 9/1/2005 6:28:01 PM EDT
The bucking bar you got from Tandys, can I purchase this online?
Link Posted: 9/1/2005 8:31:51 PM EDT
I have done it on a homebuilt receiver, and it helps to dremel a slot in the end of the rivet, so it spreads inside against the barrel... but it's a crap way to do a build, and I wouldn't do it again.

I was using 3/16 rivets too.

I tried it without slotting the rivet tip, and it just smashed sideways, and didn't expand inside.

And the heads are flat on mine, but it's a homebuilt so who cares. It's works, that's all that matters, right?
Link Posted: 9/4/2005 4:45:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/4/2005 4:55:49 PM EDT by NAVYRETIRED1]
I'm sure you can order on line. they call it a rivit set if i remember right but don't try their rivits they're made for leather and way too soft. the rivits have to have a slot cut in end or they won't spread that spreading is important to get rivit to swell instead of bending over a bent over rivit will not stay tight because it bends instead of swelling. i took a reciever back off trunions once and the rivits were spread end WHATS wrong with that its a lot safer than screw builds. i did 28 years in navy and drove a lot of rivits if you can't have a bucking bar on back side it won't look like school book rivit job but it will do job the object is to sweel rivits and make them a part of trunion and reeiver. marv
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