I have an AK74 brake that my friend made for me out of cold roll. He used a Bulgy AK74 brake to get all of the dimensions, and made it on the CNC machine. I ordered my threaded Romanian 22mm FSB from K-Var, and the only thing needed was to thread the brake itself.

I know absolutely jack squat about machining, threading, etc.  All I knew was that I needed a tap for 22x1.5mm right hand threads to get this project done.. I called MSC, and ordered a tap. I did not know the difference between a D3 tap and a D6 tap. (I do now.) The D6 tap that I ordered cuts deeper threads than the D3 and so is a little loose on my threaded FSB. With the break screwed in all the way on my FSB, even with the spring loaded detent pin in place, it has a slight wobble from side to side, or up and down. It is probably less than 1/32" of wobble.

My question is, can I use some sort of loctite to illeviate the wobble.Or, will it be okay to fire the rifle with the slightly wobble? I am sure I could use plumbers teflon tape to stop the wobble, but that would probably melt. What do you guys think I should do? The muzzle brake looks just like the Bulgarian AK-74 brake, and I can't wait to get it gunkoted and installed, and give it a try

Thanks as always for your input.

Herman

Had the same wobble problem with my after-market muzzle brake(s) ,tried two solutions, Frist I used a belt grinder to remove a "very" little of the steel and making test fits each time   till with some torque I could turn the brake to the next detent tent and it tightened up with out the wobble. On the 2nd brake I made shim out of a "tin can" lid, used a sept drill bit(the one you see the gang on "American choppers" use all the time") to get a hole as near as possible to the muzzle diameter, went off to the hardwear store to find a bolt as near in size to the hole, with a nut and two washers to clamp the shim between them and ground the shim pretty close to the right and neatly rounded shape, you'll need to make a cut-out for the detent pin (what would I do without a demrile tool) . you can adjust the tickness of the shim by running it back and forth on a sheet of emery paper (it will also adjust the thickness of the skin on your finger-tips), also made  shims out of a aluminum lids, the aluminum has a crushable ability and gives a good fit. it's a lot of work for a such simple problem but I've far to much time on my hands.

You could use a little blue loctite on the threads.  That way you would not have to ues heat to remove the brake.

I am not sure how it is on others, but I have found many of the 14 mm x1 LH brakes to be loose and wobbly on the end of the barrel.  And that was on pre-84 mfg rifles.


The biggest trouble could be the bullet striking the brake if you had to much slop.  That would be a bad thing.  

Mounted the Romanian FSB and Romanian comps from K-VAR on two SAR2's a while back. The point is that they both have minimal wobble like you discribe and it won't affect a thing. Have put approx 1000 rds total thru both rifles with nary a problem. 2-3" MOA @ 100yds.

Thanks for the info guys. The wobble is very slight.
I am going to use some blue loc-tite and not worry about it.

The slop in the brake is not enough to cause
a bullet to hit the brake.

Ya, lock-tight should do it, as for me I spent over 20 years in the ordnance field and that wobble just drove me nuts.h.gif

Give it a shot!!!! WATCH for bullet strikes and wear eye protection. Good luck... posibility that you may have a loss of zero do to inconsistancies of the break.

All of the factory muzzle devices that I've ever checked had noticable play in thier fit. It won't cause any problem- not much is precision fit on a Kalashnikov!