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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 3/30/2006 3:39:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/31/2006 3:27:04 AM EDT by metroplex]
I have a Vepr K with a new Tapco G2 single hook kit. I am re-using the Vepr/Robinson hammer spring and disconnector spring. The trigger pull is about 1-1.25 lb (yes, 1-1.25 lb). Basically if you put your finger on the trigger and gently start squeezing, it will release the hammer and surprise you 100% of the time.

Why is this happening? I'm guessing it should be easy to bump-fire now, but I'd prefer at least 3 lb - 4 lb trigger pull. What can I do to fix it?

I have run about 1300 + rd through the original hammer spring. The original FCG was a 2-stage Robinson/FSE which gave nasty trigger slip. I didn't care much for the 2-stage either, but would the hammer spring need replacing to use the single stage Tapco G2?
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 3:27:07 AM EDT
ttmft
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 5:07:42 AM EDT
Just checking, but are you sure the hammer is installed the right way. It will still cock if its backward and it makes for an extremely light trigger pull.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 5:22:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/31/2006 5:30:05 AM EDT by metroplex]
I'll check when I get home, but the sear engagement looks correct. However, the firing pin contact point is curved which seemed odd to me since the original Russian hammer had a flat contact point.

I'm pretty sure it is installed properly. There's almost no travel and the hammer breaks with a trigger pull of about 1 lb. I am using the Tapco G2 single-hook FCG. The hammer spring has 1300 rd and came with the Robinson / Vepr FCG (Robinson 2-stage trigger, FSE disco, Molot/Russian hammer).
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 9:49:59 AM EDT
It sounds like you have the hammer in backwards. A G2 typically has a rather long travel.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 11:47:08 AM EDT


It doesn't look like it is backwards.
Although the hammer surface does not strike FLUSH with the firing pin shroud of the bolt. It hits it at an angle but the FP looks like it is being completely pushed forward as required.

I'm guessing the 1 lb pull and practically nil travel is the result of the hammer pin and trigger pin locations (build tolerances). If you have any ideas, let me know.

It feels like it would be easy to bumpfire.
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 12:20:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/31/2006 12:23:30 PM EDT by stargazer111]
Hhhmmm, is that hammer in there correctly?
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 12:34:27 PM EDT
Hammer is installed correctly can you take a shot of the bottom of the receiver specifically where the trigger opening is... I have seen these where there is a clearance on the side of the trigger opposite the hook... might need some clearance added between the trigger and the opening...
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 1:18:20 PM EDT

Link Posted: 3/31/2006 3:24:28 PM EDT
OK see the corner opposite the hook? notice how the trigger is cocked forward already?

You either need to releive the trigger or the receiver on that corner... Ran into this recently on a SAR-1 I will see if I can get you a better picture of what I mean next time I am in the shop...
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 3:48:06 PM EDT
Which corner? The one diagonal from the hook or the one 90 degree from the hook (where the 2nd hook would be) or the one 90 degree from the hook towards the rear?
Link Posted: 3/31/2006 4:59:20 PM EDT
second hook side... The trigger does not fit in some receivers not saying that this is your trouble but from what I see without hands on I believe this is what your trouble is... again I will take a picture next time I am in the shop
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 3:01:13 AM EDT
You're on to something... When I first installed the G2 FCG, my safety would not fit. It's possible the rear of the trigger is "too thick". Shaving some material off might fix the problem. I'm going to pull out the FCG and compare it to the stock Robinson FCG.
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 4:31:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/1/2006 4:33:14 AM EDT by Andreuha]
Are both sides of the spring positively hooked over the trigger?
(edit: LIKE THIS)

How about the hook on the trigger? it is possible that it is worn to a different angle.

I think aside from this and the previously asked questions, there's no mechanical reason why it should be that way, besides having a weak spring (which is highly unlikely after so few rounds shot!)
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 5:04:39 AM EDT
AFSOC was right, the Tapco trigger had to be relieved at the corner where the 2nd hook would normally be. I relieved some of the trigger material and "squared" the corner of the receiver. There's slightly more travel now, and this explains why I had to dremel the safety during the initial install. Now there's some travel in the trigger with the SAFETY on, but its still "safe". I may have to get a new safety just for peace of mind.

However, the overall pull is still about 1 lb. There's just a bit more travel to the trigger. The Tapco G2 is brand new FWIW.
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 7:35:03 AM EDT
I had to take some off the trigger also. Just enough so the trigger had its full travel forward. The pull is light but long, seems to be plenty of engagement. I cocked the hammer on an empty chamber and slammed the butt on the floor pretty hard, but it always stayed cocked and safe.
Link Posted: 4/1/2006 8:20:37 AM EDT
My "new" pull isn't long, I'd say about the same or slightly less than an AR-15 which I think is the norm for a single stage.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 6:35:38 AM EDT
I would look carefully at the motion of the parts to try to see if the trigger is getting the full travel.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 6:46:27 AM EDT
Did you install the trigger pin sleeve that came with the kit?

I left mine off thinking it was an aid for installation but not required. Boy was I wrong!
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 8:11:29 AM EDT
The sleeve is in place and as far as I can tell, the trigger is getting full travel.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 12:09:24 PM EDT
I used my trigger pull gauge to see if it is any better. It measures about 2.22 lb now, much better than the 1-1.5 lb from before.

I examined the trigger as closely as possible and cannot see anything that is prevent full travel. The only other thing that would allow a longer trigger travel is to remove some material fromthe bottom of the trigger tail (where it rests on the receiver). The problem with that is if too much material is removed, the disconnector may not function properly.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 2:51:11 PM EDT

Originally Posted By metroplex:
I used my trigger pull gauge to see if it is any better. It measures about 2.22 lb now, much better than the 1-1.5 lb from before.

I examined the trigger as closely as possible and cannot see anything that is prevent full travel. The only other thing that would allow a longer trigger travel is to remove some material fromthe bottom of the trigger tail (where it rests on the receiver). The problem with that is if too much material is removed, the disconnector may not function properly.



Check the front of the trigger where it goes thru the receiver. When I installed mine it was binding slightly & not allowing the hammer to engage 100% (scary light trigger pull). A wee bit of file work between the trigger ears (I have a double hook G2) & it's fine now.
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 3:39:46 PM EDT
I shined a light to see if there was any contact between the trigger and receiver. I can see a thin slit of light so the trigger isn't resting on the receiver.

How much of the trigger "ear" does your trigger hold? Can you look at the photo I posted and compare?
Link Posted: 4/2/2006 5:16:53 PM EDT
If nothing here works, you could try sending it back to Tapco.

I had a G2 that started out very nice, but became light as you describe with a surprise break. I called TAPCO, they said I could send it in under warranty. (I did have to pay for S&H). Haven't received it back yet.
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