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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/2/2005 7:09:27 AM EDT
Any advantage to either? For a Rom. kit build. Also, can someone explain headspace, and how you do it with live round. These may be basic questions, but still getting info together and some things don't make sense. TIA
Link Posted: 8/2/2005 7:38:14 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Sigfest:
Any advantage to either? For a Rom. kit build. Also, can someone explain headspace, and how you do it with live round. These may be basic questions, but still getting info together and some things don't make sense. TIA



Go with the 1.0, it'll make your life much easier. It's plenty sturdy enough.

I use a no-go gauge and a live round to check headspace. Strip your bolt of the extracter (and firing pin) and put it back in the carrier. Put the live round in the clean chamber and press the carrier forward by hand and watch the bolt fully rotate into battery. Then do the same with the no-go guage, but this time the bolt should not fully engage. If it passes those tests, you're good to go.
Link Posted: 8/2/2005 10:29:12 AM EDT
I'm not crazy about the idea of doing any testing with a live round.
Splurge, spend the $26 and get a go guage, to go with your no-go.
Link Posted: 8/2/2005 10:55:28 AM EDT

Originally Posted By maxxx93:
I'm not crazy about the idea of doing any testing with a live round.
Splurge, spend the $26 and get a go guage, to go with your no-go.



I don't blame you. If you're not comfortable then by all means spend the extra money. Since the firing pin, extractor, and FCG are not there, I figure it's about as safe as a no-go gauge... I point in a safe direction, check for lockup, pull it out, and I'm done. If you want to be really safe, I guess check with the no-go gauge first. And even safer is don't use a live round.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 6:14:19 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Sigfest:
Any advantage to either? For a Rom. kit build. Also, can someone explain headspace, and how you do it with live round. These may be basic questions, but still getting info together and some things don't make sense. TIA



If you are having someone else build it, 1.6. If you are doing it yourself, 1.0

I myself am going with the 1.6 because someone elese is building mine. (Partially)

ben
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 6:21:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/3/2005 9:41:51 PM EDT by Gloftoe]
I've got one of each. With the 1.6mm receivers, you'll have to mill down the sides of your front and rear trunions by .60mm on each side. Otherwise they won't fit in the receiver.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 9:38:07 PM EDT
On a 1.6 you have to mill .60 on each side of the trunions.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 9:40:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/3/2005 9:41:38 PM EDT by Gloftoe]
I think you're correct. Editing my mistake from above!
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 12:56:11 AM EDT
Go with the 1 mm. It is correct for the rifle and saves the problems of fitting parts as stated above. If you are having someone else do the build they will probably charge you $25.00-$50.00 more for the fitting/milling mentioned above.
Link Posted: 8/4/2005 1:32:13 AM EDT
the 1mm is correct
the 1.6 is 10x smoother feels like a milled

(selfserving plug)
i have a milled down russian trunnion and underfolder in the ee
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