User Panel
[#1]
I recently switched from a plastic spoon, tweezers, RCBS trickler and a gempro 250.
Currently using a Lyman Gen6 that gets checked on the gempro. The first 3 charges from the Lyman get dumped back into the reservoir. After that it tends to throw spot on or .05-.1 light. I trickle on the gempro to bring them up. I'm more ocd than I need to be, but I like my charges to be accurate to the hundredth. I'd say the Lyman has cut my loading time by half to 2/3rds. We use 4451and 4350. I've got some rl16, but haven't cracked the seal on it. |
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"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives."-Abba Eban
"I like it both ways, but still mainly mouth it" -gonzo_beyondo |
[#2]
I use a Lyman power measure set to be light or a Lyman scoop that will be light. Then trickle in the rest on the old RCBS 10-10 scale.
Takes time but they are all weighed and right on. I don't load large numbers, only for my precision guns. I will never trust a powder measure to throw the charge exactly. Or I need a better one. |
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I plead the 2nd.
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[#3]
Originally Posted By rob78:
I recently switched from a plastic spoon, tweezers, RCBS trickler and a gempro 250. Currently using a Lyman Gen6 that gets checked on the gempro. The first 3 charges from the Lyman get dumped back into the reservoir. After that it tends to throw spot on or .05-.1 light. I trickle on the gempro to bring them up. I'm more ocd than I need to be, but I like my charges to be accurate to the hundredth. I'd say the Lyman has cut my loading time by half to 2/3rds. We use 4451and 4350. I've got some rl16, but haven't cracked the seal on it. View Quote Then I read the problem was being caused by old style ballast transformers. I switched to the newer electronic version. Now the scale stabilizes easy and stays that way. I've gotten used to the Uniflo, throwing light and trickling for precision loads, but may set up the Lyman to throw light and then still use a separate trickler. I don't know whether it will save any time, though. |
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[Last Edit: mustang-cars]
[#4]
I use 2 Chargemasters with the speed turned up and reducing inserts. Quick and accurate enough for PRS
Edit to add I use H4350 |
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[#5]
Originally Posted By MS556:
I have a Lyman Gen 6. My workshop has fluorescent over head lights. The electronic scale would not stabilize and threw erratic. I switched back to the baffled Uniflo. Then I read the problem was being caused by old style ballast transformers. I switched to the newer electronic version. Now the scale stabilizes easy and stays that way. I've gotten used to the Uniflo, throwing light and trickling for precision loads, but may set up the Lyman to throw light and then still use a separate trickler. I don't know whether it will save any time, though. View Quote I'd read that fluorescent lights would screw up scales. I picked up an LED light and haven't had any problem. I know the Lyman has saved us a ton of time, but we were coming from no dispenser at all. Even double checking the Lyman is significantly faster than before. |
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"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives."-Abba Eban
"I like it both ways, but still mainly mouth it" -gonzo_beyondo |
[#6]
I use a Redding BR10 thrower with a Redding beam balance and Redding trickler.
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[#7]
I really wanna upgrade my ChargeMaster to the Autothrow/ auto trickler a&d Scale. The charge master while fast than a thrower and trickler is slower than the auto throw from what I have seen whatching you tube videos.
Scott |
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Shut the front door.
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[#8]
Originally Posted By Scotts556:
I really wanna upgrade my ChargeMaster to the Autothrow/ auto trickler a&d Scale. The charge master while fast than a thrower and trickler is slower than the auto throw from what I have seen whatching you tube videos. Scott View Quote I just bought 2 Chargemasters and 2 inserts when RCBS was having its rebate. After the rebate I was into both Chargemasters for $340 plus $35 for the inserts. |
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[#9]
Originally Posted By mustang-cars: You can buy an additional chargemaster, some inserts, and tune them for faster speed for a small fraction of the cost of the A&D and be just as fast. Wont be as completely accurate but if you find the velocity flat spot on your load it wont matter. I just bought 2 Chargemasters and 2 inserts when RCBS was having its rebate. After the rebate I was into both Chargemasters for $340 plus $35 for the inserts. View Quote Scott |
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Shut the front door.
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[#10]
Originally Posted By Scotts556:
I have thought about that. I really have. My big thing as of now I have a really small bench, and 2 Chargemasters are a huge foot print. There is a large chance I may go that route. But the A&D has a major cool factor to it. And I Do feel it is more accurate while I doubt a few kernals matter. But I can get some major OCD some times. Scott View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Scotts556:
Originally Posted By mustang-cars: You can buy an additional chargemaster, some inserts, and tune them for faster speed for a small fraction of the cost of the A&D and be just as fast. Wont be as completely accurate but if you find the velocity flat spot on your load it wont matter. I just bought 2 Chargemasters and 2 inserts when RCBS was having its rebate. After the rebate I was into both Chargemasters for $340 plus $35 for the inserts. Scott |
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[#11]
Originally Posted By mustang-cars:
I hear you on the OCD thing. That’s why I almost bought the A&D myself. You can shoot a lot of precision reloads for the savings so I went the CM route. Either way the A&D eliminates the charge weight consistency for sure. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mustang-cars:
Originally Posted By Scotts556:
Originally Posted By mustang-cars: You can buy an additional chargemaster, some inserts, and tune them for faster speed for a small fraction of the cost of the A&D and be just as fast. Wont be as completely accurate but if you find the velocity flat spot on your load it wont matter. I just bought 2 Chargemasters and 2 inserts when RCBS was having its rebate. After the rebate I was into both Chargemasters for $340 plus $35 for the inserts. Scott |
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Shut the front door.
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[#12]
Finally got a Charge master lite.. Holy crap this thing is way nicer then weighing each charge... and after running IMR4064 and today picked up a pound of Varget to try.... it really does weigh out the Varget faster....
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Just Drop... Buckethead!
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[#13]
I use Harrell's Precision's Premium measure and Redding's BR-30.
My Dillon 550 for handguns. |
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[#14]
why no all of the above option?
I use a redding br-30 with trickler for my 1 at a time precision loads(.260) , have a hornady auto charge I use for my volume precision loads(mk262,m118lr spec), what ever came with my hornady lnl for bulk rifle ammo(aka blasting ammo) then my favorite the lee pro auto disc for all of my handgun needs. |
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[#15]
Lee perfect powder measure throws good enough for 3 gun ammo with extruded powder. Redding 3BR for ball powder. I used a lot of AA2520 and Tac with it with good results.
Lee Perfect Powder to get close then trickle up for precision with extruded powder. |
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Ohio weather sucks.
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[#16]
I use an old RCBS(built by Pact)Dispencer/scale and a new charge master light.... both get weighed again on a gem pro 1500, both dispensers throw pretty accurate especially on RL-33, H1000, US869, Retumbo and Varget..I also have an rcbs charge master 1500 scale sitting in the box, but the gem pro has proven accurate enough I don't bother running over 3 scales for each load any more...
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[#17]
I'm still on a learning curve with powder measures, but I discovered something recently that has me reconsidering my earlier opinions about some of these measures. I'm probably going to stay with doing my precision rounds on an individual basis as I don't shoot heaps of them to really benefit from mass production efforts or equipment. So for that it will remain a light charge that is trickled up to an exact measure.
However, I'm currently learning right now the often mentioned metering quality or issues that certain powders have. I've been using one Uniflow unit that came with my Rockchucker Supreme kit a few years ago. Then earlier this year I bought a Lee Auto Drum measure for higher production rounds like 5.56 and to go on a turret press I recently acquired. To my surprise the Auto Drum yields better, more consistent results than the Uniflow...with exceptions. My complaint with the Uniflow is that it is very herky-jerky with extruded, small stick powders. It usually wants to hang on the handle stroke. It doesn't result in horrible throws, but they're usually not the kind you're happy with for anything semi-precision. I have polished and graphited this Uniflow and don't have static issues. Low and behold, the Auto Drum does these same powders with ease and much more consistent results. I suspect the nylon drum and that little silicone insert assists these kinds of powder in flowing and shutting off a lot easier than the hard, sharp Uniflow drum. Now, I just started using some H110 for some 300BO supers, and I had seen the reports of the Auto Drum measure not doing well with these fine, almost dust, powders. I didn't even try it in mine and went straight to the Uniflow. Well, the Uniflow threw basically precise charges every time, and I mean precise...no hangup or rough handle strokes. I get why. So, now it looks to me like I will stay with the Auto Drum for the "bulkier" powders and use the Uniflow for the finer powders. Short of going to some of the quality but much higher priced systems mentioned here, I think I have found a compromise that I'm happy with at my price point and comfort level. I'm not sure I even want to use any different method with my two precision guns for the relatively low number of rounds produced for them. OCD and paranoia for that application is too strong for me...LOL! Again, I'll mention how surprised I am with the Lee Auto Drum measure. It just doesn't seem right that a $30-$35 measure should yield this kind of accuracy, especially with the more "problematic" extruded powder types. |
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[#18]
Originally Posted By Happy2shoot:
I use the Hornady Lock-N-Load Auto Charge Powder Dispenser for long stick powders like varget and 4064 https://www.natchezss.com/media/catalog/product/P/C/PC050068.jpg View Quote |
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"You couldn't possibly understand an educated, squatch-cocked, freedom-loving, combat veteran, sexual tyrannosaurus like me. My entire existence is a foreign concept to you. " - DaringRaider
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[#19]
a year later it seems i went against the majority. i ordered a competition powder measure from RCBS. my main issue is h1000 powder.... i guess i will find out in a few weeks if this helps.
it will certainly be an improvement over my 20 year old hand me down RCBS standard measures... right? |
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[#20]
Not trying to rain on your parade... but I have never found a volumetric measure that was standout for charge weight dispersion.
At least not enough to be significant with stick powders. There seems to be no relationship between what I spent, versus what the standard deviation of those thrown charges would be. If anything, one of the least expensive Lee units seemed to jam the least on powders like 4064 or 4350, and that tended to have a slightly better statistic for extreme spread. If someone asks me honestly, what is the typical performance of anything from a Harrel’s to a Lee, I tell them 0.5 grains six sigma. If someone asks me honestly, what is the typical performance of my Charge Masters (I run two at a time to speed things up, so they composite) I tell them 0.15 grains six sigma. I have not yet done what I call the uncertainty tests on the A&D-Auto Trickler, but I am told it will hold within 2 powder kernels. I’ll know soon enough, but getting time for the testing will be a while since to have a lab scale better than the A&D will mean doing that at work in a clean room on my own time. |
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[#21]
Originally Posted By cruze5:
a year later it seems i went against the majority. i ordered a competition powder measure from RCBS. my main issue is h1000 powder.... i guess i will find out in a few weeks if this helps. it will certainly be an improvement over my 20 year old hand me down RCBS standard measures... right? View Quote |
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[#22]
Lee PPM.
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Distinguished Rifleman #2223
#FreeBradders "Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara |
[#23]
I have a standard RCBS powder measure with a home made baffle, and after I installed the baffle I noticed it was more reliable. I also have a Pact digital powder measure I picked up that was barely used. Funny thing is I barely use it either because it takes time to "learn" about the powder so it doesn't overthrow a charge. About the only time I use it is when I'm dispensing IMR 3031 or I need to dial up a bunch of different charges for optimal charge testing. it's a bit slow to trickle a charge, (stars fast, then slows down as it reaches chosen weight) however it's consistent.
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[Last Edit: xCLAYBUSTERx]
[#24]
I picked up one of these a couple weeks ago. Pretty happy
Auto Trickler 03AEFE9F CC9F 45B6 924A F7337F39067A |
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[#25]
i loaded 10 300 WM loads using 76 grains of h1k powder just now
so far i am a happy camper, no issues with it getting stuck |
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[#26]
Originally Posted By JoeMal:
Charge master. Every 5 throws gets weighed on a beam View Quote My electronic scale, with a little care, gives my 1/10 gr. accuracy. That is adequate for XTC, Palma, and the steel matches I shoot with .308, .260 rem, and .223. I do NOT shoot F-Class at this point. I'll ask those guys this weekend, but I know at least some of them use electronic scales. |
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In difficult and desperate cases, the boldest counsels are the safest. Livy.
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