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Posted: 12/7/2018 12:42:21 AM EDT
never done it before, as i never had access to the hardware.
im in the market to complete my reloading bench, and add more tedious work to my reloading process... any particular one i should look at? im interested in buy once cry once as i want something that will last a long time, work well and be consistent . |
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I've sold to every army but the salvation army.
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[#1]
The only thing I ever found is how out of round the necks are with regular brass. By the time I turned the necks even there was not much brass thickness left!
I gave up. |
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Bad news. Your little car's gonna drown. And you're gonna die, wearing that stupid hat. How does it feel?
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[#2]
I use an RCBS trim pro2 manual with the proper auto feed neck turning kit for the caliber I am using...very. simple to use, very consistent results...
I assume you are going to be using stock SAAMI spec chambers with spec neck diameters correct? If so, then you do not turn to clean the whole neck, all you want to do is clean the "high" spots...(aprox 1/2 the neck diameter or less)ON my 300rum, my brass averages 0.016" per side, my max cut is 0.0145" I also use a Sinclair mandrel to size the brass up to .307" from the neck turners .306" mandrel after sizing it down with a .336" neck bushing...This makes the inner diameter perfectly round and transfers the out of round to the outer neck for trimming... Manual trim pro up front(necks) powered trim pro in back(case trim length) Attached File Attached File I use a Sinclair gauge for verifying neck thickness and concentricity.... Attached File Attached File |
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[#3]
Unless you are competitive bench rest shooter you are probably wasting your time.
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[#4]
Originally Posted By GFrancisco:
Unless you are competitive bench rest shooter you are probably wasting your time. View Quote |
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[#5]
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider:
Not a competitive bench rest shooter......Have found accuracy in consistent neck tension...part of which is uniform neck diameters.... Since I am trying to kill rocks out past 2K yards..every little bit helps... View Quote once a neck is turned, will it need to be done each time after that or is it a once and done event? |
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I've sold to every army but the salvation army.
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[#6]
Originally Posted By par0thead151: exactly. im looking to see how good i can get my ammo as well as myself out far. once a neck is turned, will it need to be done each time after that or is it a once and done event? View Quote |
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[#7]
Originally Posted By GFrancisco:
Unless you are competitive bench rest shooter you are probably wasting your time. View Quote You don't have to be a benchrest shooter to appreciate the reduction in "WTF?" moments when shooting at longer distances. I'd load everything up meticulously. Double check powder charges. Trim/Chamfer/debur. Anneal necks and shoulders. Etc.,etc. I'd still have a round shoot high/low at distance. A chronograph would show velocity swings that I couldn't explain. Turning necks to a consistent thickness affects neck tension. Neck tension affects pressure. Pressure affects velocity. I use Hornady brass because its cheap. You can see uneven neck wall thickness without a dial indicator. Neck turning has virtually eliminated "thrown" shots for me. Now, uniforming primer pockets? I've not seen any empirical evidence suggesting it does much. You can find and see the data that supports consistent neck tension. |
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"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives."-Abba Eban
"I like it both ways, but still mainly mouth it" -gonzo_beyondo |
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#8]
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider:
I use an RCBS trim pro2 manual with the proper auto feed neck turning kit for the caliber I am using...very. simple to use, very consistent results... I assume you are going to be using stock SAAMI spec chambers with spec neck diameters correct? If so, then you do not turn to clean the whole neck, all you want to do is clean the "high" spots...(aprox 1/2 the neck diameter or less)ON my 300rum, my brass averages 0.016" per side, my max cut is 0.0145" I also use a Sinclair mandrel to size the brass up to .307" from the neck turners .306" mandrel after sizing it down with a .336" neck bushing...This makes the inner diameter perfectly round and transfers the out of round to the outer neck for trimming... Manual trim pro up front(necks) powered trim pro in back(case trim length) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/404934/o5xtXKW2Sce_kJG0ra_t6w_jpg-763500.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/404934/vlZl27pXQG2DotdsgqgB2g_jpg-763503.JPG I use a Sinclair gauge for verifying neck thickness and concentricity.... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/404934/fullsizeoutput_3a0_jpeg-763508.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/404934/IMG_1640_JPG-763511.JPG View Quote |
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[#9]
AKSnowrider, has it right. You have to ensure that the neck is perfectly round on the inside before you turn the outside and then take off only what's needed and no more. I smoke the neck with a lighter so I can see exactly when enough is enough. The whole point is to ensure consistent neck tension. Since that is the goal, then you'll also need the correct crimping die and bushing and if you don't want to keep changing bushings then you'll turn all the brass you'll be reloading exactly the same. Depending on the quality of the brass, you may end up with a lot of brass that ends up in the plinking bucket because it can't be turned to the same specs as you're test case. I use Lapua brass for my precision reloading and so far it's been very consistent. It's a lot of work but can be rewarding and once it's done you usually don't have to do it again unless you start noticing the "doughnut". I only had that happen once and it was with Winchester fire formed brass that I was learning on.
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[#10]
For long range ammo and only through a bolt action rifle.
Lightly skim the high side off the neck. Never turn the neck down so far that it's cut all the way around. That should only be done for custom tight neck chamber bench rest rifles. My goal is 50% +/- metal removal on the neck. Some will be 65%, some will be 40%. All will exhibit less than .0015" run-out. Power is your friend. After trying this I have come to the conclusion it's better to buy Lapua brass and skip this madness. You're never going to make crappy brass great, you can only improve it some. Buy Lapua and run it as is and you'll be money and time ahead |
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[#11]
I loathe neck turning, but the 21st century neck turning lathe is a nice piece of equipment. I like accuracy, but for the type of shooting I do it just isn't needed.
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I got it at the Costco.
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[Last Edit: MS556]
[#12]
Originally Posted By borderpatrol:
For long range ammo and only through a bolt action rifle. Lightly skim the high side off the neck. Never turn the neck down so far that it's cut all the way around. That should only be done for custom tight neck chamber bench rest rifles. My goal is 50% +/- metal removal on the neck. Some will be 65%, some will be 40%. All will exhibit less than .0015" run-out. Power is your friend. After trying this I have come to the conclusion it's better to buy Lapua brass and skip this madness. You're never going to make crappy brass great, you can only improve it some. Buy Lapua and run it as is and you'll be money and time ahead View Quote |
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[#13]
Neck turning is a one time thing so taking the time to do it once is not overly obsessive. It's all about taking control of all the mechanical aspects of the ammunition. Some will say it's not worth the time and I can understand that, just reload to save a few bucks and enjoy your shooting. However, if you're into precision shooting and you're goal is to shoot the best your possibly can then you might want to consider neck turning as just one of the steps in ensuring that all of your ammo for a particular rifle is identical. Eliminating as many mechanical deficiencies no matter how minor they may seem allows you to confidently work on the physical aspects of your precision shooting.
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[#14]
Originally Posted By MS556: I started using Lapua Match cases a year ago or so for my precision .223/5.56 reloading. Yes run as is, and then after first firing, full length resize, trim to minumum for uniformity, and mouth chamfer. That's it. No neck turning. They don't seem to need any further prep. My LC brass got the full benchrest prep, weight sorting and such and never did nearly as well. I still like LC for non-precision use, but skip the obsessive prep now. View Quote I use a Whidden Bushing Die to keep consistent neck tension. See below. Bushing Sizer Die Information |
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Shoot Quickly ,Accurately and Safely.
What Have You Done to Defend Your Gun Rights Lately ? |
[#15]
Back in the day when I was shooting silhouette matches with a 7mm-308 wildcat (then), I did inside neck reaming and outside neck turning once I fire-formed .308 brass.
I tried it after I sold my Wichita pistol and got into Hunter-class benchrest, but gave it up. Now, I make hunting and plinking loads and rarely get a shot past 400 yards. No need for all that jazz for that kind of shooting. |
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