never mind, you don't know.

I'll find it myself.

Pic of setup.

just forget it.

you guys don't know.

Did you shoot it with or without the suppressor.
If with, try it without.
You are eliminating one variable of poor accuracy that way

nevermind

Is it a 30 moa mount ?First thing I thought was mount might be reversed. Three feet at 50 yards is 72 moa?

30 moa mount was what I was thinking

nevermind.

nevermind.

Assuming you mounted it correctly, the ATN Thor is a digital optic that advertises a "1 shot zero"!  You are not looking thru a glass path, you are looking at a high resolution video screen image that was taken by the camera in the front of the scope.  Plus, there is no way to increase the elevation of the rear of the optic probably because there is no need for it.  Read the owners manual carefully - I think the answer you seek is there...

Found it did you?!?!?    Me2!...

OP spent serious lettuce on a high tech digital, IR optic and didn't bother to read the owners manual...  Failed at the range and then came here for the "easy answer"...  when we all started asking obvious questions, he broke down and did some reading and found the (simple) solution...  then torched the original post...

He posted "nevermind" while I was looking up the optic and composing my answer so I didn't see that until after my post...

Problem solved!

ok I found the issue.

Yes i read the owners manual from cover to cover, and followed the zeroing process perfectly. I used the ATN thermal target that I bought from them, it works great. I had a "one shot" zero. Just like it said. The issue was I had to move the "zero" all the way down to the bottom of the screen. So now I have a screen with the cross hairs on the very bottom of the picture.

The reason for this? Perhaps the scope rings are not exactly level, causing the scope to point UP, therefore making the cross hairs end up at the bottom of the screen. Logic right?

you guys assume so much that is wrong, it's laughable.

all I wanted to know what how much to shim up the rear scope ring to put the cross hairs in the middle of the screen.

Yet NO one has managed to help me with this. When it was requested for a pic of the set up and details, I knew you were going to sidetrack and forget about the original question. I obliged, but it just got worse.

I asked on another forum and got an answer with the correct math in less than 5 min. It's a matter of triangles...

my shim needs to be approx  .0667 to move the scope approx 24" at 50 yds.

Yes I pulled everything down because you guys were not answering the basic question.

Have a good day.

thank you I appreciate it.

sometimes people only want what they ask for, no more, no less.

now I have an answer, it's time to solve why is it this way, and what's the best way to adjust it.

my money says, the scope rings are at fault.

I'll put on another set and see.

they do make adjustable inserts for scope rings to adjust the height now days.

I bet I could 3d print an insert....

Man I love a good "don't know and can't be told" thread.

You, sir, are being . . . insulting and condescending to those trying to help you.

New rings may be the solution.  Shimming, probably not unless you want to bend a scope tube.

Burris XTR Signature rings with Posi-Align inserts may be an answer.  Just trying to help, anyway.  Not quite sure why.

new rings arrived, solved problem.

insulting and condescending...

well if the question was answered that was asked, instead of trying to make your answer fit the question not asked....

don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.

OP... There are so many different variables that would have caused your issue that no one was able to give you a proper answer without more specific details. I think everyone would hate to tell you how to shim your rings when you had a loose barrel extension or a burr in the end of your barrel. It would not have been the first time that someone bought a 20 moa set of rings thinking they were a normal set of rings.

Sorry that we wanted to help you and somehow offended you.