User Panel
Posted: 10/20/2014 9:47:08 PM EDT
I'm curious to see if/what anyone is using to flush their bore out after dry patching the solvent out. It seems no matter what I do some residual is left inside the bore.
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[#1]
Alcohol works well for that. Some people follow it up with something like Lock Eez, too.
Anymore I'm not real keen on cleaning them. It changes things too much. |
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"Hope is not a policy, and, at present, there is no realistic path to a world free of nuclear weapons."
- John Deutch |
[#2]
Never thought of alcohol. I'll try that. Unfortunately it's a work rifle so I'm forced to clean it. Thanks.
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[#3]
Brought up on olde 303 rifles and even older ammo.
I boil out most barrels if the heritage of the ammo is in doubt. A couple of pints of water gets the barrel nice and warm...and I check a couple of days after & give them a second pull-through just to be sure |
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www.mooreleather.co.uk
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[Last Edit: Hammer_In_PA]
[#4]
Birchwood-Casey Gun Scubber will remove all traces of solvent. I use it on patches then use dry patches to finish.
It doesn't leave any residue and dries very, very quickly. However, it may cause damage to plastics/or certain finishes. |
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[#5]
when i clean. (which is not that often) i end by blowing out with brake clean. and then air.
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"Audentes fortuna iuuat"
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[#6]
I typically use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol to remove solvent residues before oiling the bore for storage, or before firing to remove the storage oil.Reduces the chance of solvent residues degrading my storage oil,and a dry bore for firing.
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[#7]
I plug the flash hider end of the barrel with a patch and use the red straw to spray sea foam deep creep down into the barrel and gas tube. Let that sit for couple mins, pull out the patch and run the brush down one time then the bore snake. And last ill spray napa silicon lube down the gas tube and then down the barrel and I'm down.
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[#8]
Originally Posted By Blankwaffe98:
I typically use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol to remove solvent residues before oiling the bore for storage, or before firing to remove the storage oil.Reduces the chance of solvent residues degrading my storage oil,and a dry bore for firing. View Quote This is what I do. A patch with 91% alcohol followed by a patch with a light oil and a dry patch. |
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[Last Edit: 458winmag]
[#9]
No, but I do before.
After it would remove any lubricate |
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[#10]
I clean by running a swab with Hoppes #9 through the bore and letting the gun sit for a while (think days) then 3 dry patches just before using the gun the next time.
Almost no work, gets 'em clean, can't harm the bore--Hoppes #9 prevents rusting of the bore. |
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[#11]
doesn't a completely dry bore copper foul quicker than a bore that has a very light coat of oil?
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[#12]
my understanding is that having an oiled bore when firing is detrimental. The reason as I understand it is that the passage of the projectile over the oiled surface puts additional outward force on the barrel and causes excessive wear. Where normally you would have straight bore on projectile contact, now you are adding oil between these. I am however willing to cede this point to anywone who may be better informed.
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[Last Edit: mathecb]
[#13]
Originally Posted By Yoikaze:
my understanding is that having an oiled bore when firing is detrimental. The reason as I understand it is that the passage of the projectile over the oiled surface puts additional outward force on the barrel and causes excessive wear. Where normally you would have straight bore on projectile contact, now you are adding oil between these. I am however willing to cede this point to anywone who may be better informed. View Quote Have you ever tried to push a bullet down a bore by hand? Do you think it would be easier with a dry barrel or one that had a bit of oil? I am not saying lots of oil in the bore is a good thing but I would rather leave a very light coat of oil after cleaning than a bone dry bore. After I run a patch of Alcohol through the bore, I follow with a wet patch of oil followed by several dry patches to get most of it out. Leaving a little in there isn't going to hurt anything. |
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[#14]
I don't do anything. The dry patch has left the bore as clean as it needs to be.
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[#15]
Be careful what you consider oil for your bore. There are some "oil" products that are very bad for accuracy
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[#16]
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Distinguished Rifleman #2223
FBHO TK4L "Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara |
[#17]
I just run a dry patch down and call it good.
Someday I need to clean my new AI as it has almost 700rds on it right now and I have never cleaned it. I figure at 1K rounds I will just clean it for fun since there isn't any copper fouling and it shoots great. I tend to not clean unless there is a reason to do so. |
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[#18]
MPro 7 until clean. Follow with dry patch, CLP patch, dry patch. Done.
If it is particularly copper fouled I will use MPro7 first, JB bore paste, Mpro 7, and then the CLP. All the time. Every time. |
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We President now!
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[#19]
I use solvent then dry patch . I then run a lightly CLP patch twice and call it the day. I ALWAYS run a dry patch through every firearm before I leave for the range. WarDawg
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[#20]
OK, here's my odd ball "average day" cleaning routine >>>
When I get home from the range, I remove the bolt from my rifle and stand it nose down onto multiple thicknesses of paper towel (1 sheet folded in half 5 or so times). I then flood the bore/chamber with WD-40 and stand holding the rifle nose down on the paper towel for about a minute. I then lift the rifle off the paper towel and let the WD-40 out of the muzzle. I put the rifle up onto a counter with the muzzle several inches lower than the chamber and put something under the muzzle to catch any drippings. I let the rifle sit in this position for a few (5?) minutes while I clean and lightly lube the bolt. After this short "soak", I run a dry boresnake through the bore twice and then mop the chamber with a dry mop. I then replace the bolt and put the rifle in its case for storage. I occasionally brush the chamber with a nylon brush before boresnaking. |
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[#21]
WD-40 is a horrible product for gun cleaning and maintenance. It will do more harm than good over time.
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[#22]
Originally Posted By mathecb:
This is what I do. A patch with 91% alcohol followed by a patch with a light oil and a dry patch. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mathecb:
Originally Posted By Blankwaffe98:
I typically use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol to remove solvent residues before oiling the bore for storage, or before firing to remove the storage oil.Reduces the chance of solvent residues degrading my storage oil,and a dry bore for firing. |
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This is...a clue - Pat_Rogers
I'm not adequately aluminumized for this thread. - gonzo_beyondo CO, FL, MI, SC, OR - Please lobby your legislators to end discrimination against non-resident CCW permit holders |
[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#23]
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[Last Edit: mathecb]
[#24]
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#25]
Originally Posted By mathecb:
Keep using it. You seem to be content with the results, don't let me get in your way. View Quote |
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[Last Edit: mathecb]
[#26]
Did not mean for you to take offense to my comments. I've got a few degrees myself as well as a few gunsmiths in the family if we're doing whip it out and take measurements though. WD-40 is a effective general purpose, household product. I use it on a regular basis around the house and at work and it does fine. Don't spin my words as claiming that WD-40 does horrible things when used properly. I'm saying it's a poor choice of a bore cleaner and also as a firearm lubricant. Why? We have tons of options for firearm specific lubricants, solvents, and cleaners designed with a purpose, not as a generic product. As for doing more harm than good, WD-40 can leave a gummy residue over time and if it gets in the wrong places, can lead to other issues. I've cleaned it out of more than a few rifles and shotguns that seemed to work fine after being cleaned and lubed properly.
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#27]
Originally Posted By mathecb:
Did not mean for you to take offense to my comments. I've got a few degrees myself as well as a few gunsmiths in the family if we're doing whip it out and take measurements. WD-40 is a good general purpose, household product. I use it on a regular basis around the house and at work and it does fine. Don't spin my words as claiming that WD-40 does horrible things when used properly. I'm saying it's a poor choice of a bore cleaner and also as a firearm lubricant. Why? We have tons of options for firearm specific lubricants, solvents, and cleaners designed with a purpose, not as a generic product. As for doing more harm than good, WD-40 can leave a gummy residue over time and if it gets in the wrong places, can lead to other issues. I've cleaned it out of more than a few rifles and shotguns that seemed to work fine after being cleaned and lubed properly. View Quote The way that I got to the idea of using WD in the first place is that, in precision shooting, many folks only "clean" their bores every several hundred rounds or so. My OCD won't let me shoot and then not clean at least a little so I have decided to try the "minimalistic" method that I described. WD-40 is mostly solvent with a little oil of some sort. When you run a dry boresnake over a bore wet with WD, there is only a miniscule amount left behind and by the time the solvent evaporates, there is almost nothing remaining. |
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[Last Edit: mathecb]
[#28]
There's nothing wrong with putting your weapons away clean. I take the same approach, just a little different method. A wet patch with a mild solvent like Hoppes #9 followed by a few dry patches 5-10 minutes later, quick and easy, nothing aggressive. I use to be a rem-oil on a bore snake kind of shooter but now I can't stand the thought of dragging a dirty patch or snake through a good barrel. They are great for clearing a dirty bore away from home though. There's more than one way to do the job though and everybody has their favorite method. I have a lot invested in this game so I don't mind spending a few extra dollars on good quality products to take care of my equipment.
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John 8:12 "I am the light of the world: he that followeth me shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the light of life."
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[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#29]
Yeah, the thought of a dirty boresnake getting dragged through my barrel doesn't give me a warm & fuzzy either! I never put anything on boresnake before running it through my barrel, I just use it like a "dry patch over a brush followed my 3 to 5 more dry patches" more than anything else. And when the boresnake starts to look dirty, I wash it by hand with (Dawn) dish washing soap (lots of suds), rinse thoroughly, and then hang it in my laundry room to dry.
P.S.: I have to admit, YOUR solvent smells better! |
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[#30]
Gun cleaning opinions is just like brass prep opinions. Some will spend hours doing it and some will do the least amount as possible.
A few dry patches on a tight fitting jag is usually how I finish. You'll need a fouling shot or 3 whether it's a completely dry bore, lightly oiled, special conditioner, etc. |
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