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Posted: 10/17/2014 1:18:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mathecb]
I was turned to a 50/50 mix of Butches and Kroil at a match a while back. Have been using it since and very happy with the results.

Method:
1 wet patch with 50/50 mix of butches/kroil.
10-15 passes with a brush
wait a few minutes
1 dry patch
repeat until patches come out clean

Finish with a patch of alcohol or acetone, a patch of oil, and one dry patch.

Whats your favorite solvent and cleaning procedure?
Link Posted: 10/17/2014 5:39:01 PM EDT
[#1]
I've been using shooters choice bore cleaner for a long time and even though I have used other products It is my favorite normal usage cleaner.

Usually I push a few wet patches through and then a few dry patches.

Then push a few more wet patches and then let it sit for a few minutes and then push a few dry patches.

If those dry patches are clean enough, I run a patch with rust preventative and one dry patch and call it done.

If after the second wet patches the dry patches come out dirty or show copper I run wet patches followed by several passes with a wet nylon brush and let it sit for "a while". 30 minutes up to several hours.

Repeat that until patches are clean and don't show copper.

With my precision rifles I almost never see enough copper on patches to worry about it but I do occasionally like to get it all out to make sure I don't get an excessive build up.

Some might say that is over doing it but that is the least that I can do and not have my OCD issues start bugging me

On non precision guns I might use a bronze brush to speed things up.

Link Posted: 10/17/2014 6:35:40 PM EDT
[#2]
break-free CLP
Link Posted: 10/17/2014 8:27:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Hoppes #9 for the barrel, never clp in a precision rifle unless you're behind enemy lines. :) You can use the Hoppes to pick up chicks in a pinch too!
Link Posted: 10/17/2014 11:37:38 PM EDT
[#4]


Pretty much all the small stuff I need for maintenance. The solvent is on the left and its the carbon remover. I prefer to use a jag as well so that is also there. I just pass through some of the carbon remover then the nylon brush to break anything large up and follow with more patches. It doesn't need to be super complex. One of the things not pictured is my cleaning rod. I have a Tipton 40" carbon fiber rod. Make sure to get spare brushes because they will foul up and especially the nylon bore brush can become disfigured so you may need a new one after a while. Just a good idea to have spares.
Link Posted: 10/18/2014 12:00:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: HighpowerRifleBrony] [#5]
Favorite solvent: Hoppe's #9.
Method:




2x solvent-covered brush from breech to muzzle (I remove it after it emerges out of muzzle and screw it back on after pulling rod out)




Wipe off action and bolt with paper towels and Q-tips. Grease for bolt-guns and oil for semis. (takes about 10 minutes)




1x dry patch (preferably thick cotton)




1x wet patch




1x dry patch




1x Hoppe's oil patch




1x dry patch




After removing rod guide, rotate a dry patch (in a loop jag) in the chamber to absorb any liquid that may have got in there.




Visually inspect chamber and bore for fuzzies and blowout or run dry patches through to remove them.



 
Link Posted: 10/18/2014 1:00:23 AM EDT
[#6]
My favorite: Hoppe's #9

For all my precision long range guns I use the 10% method.  For how many rounds I shoot down the tube that down, 10% of patches I run.  

First 2 are wet patches.  Then alternate dry and wet until the last 2 patches are dry.  Inspect the chamber and barrel.  

I like doing it this way because next time I go back to the range Im pretty much hitting where I left off the last time I went to the range.
Link Posted: 10/18/2014 1:43:47 AM EDT
[#7]
Two wet patches of hoppes #9, followed by shooting the bore full of wipe out foaming cleaner.  Let it sit for an hour, patch out, repeat as necessary.
Link Posted: 10/18/2014 9:40:33 AM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 8:26:25 AM EDT
[#9]
I like Butch's.  



When I was getting started I thought this video though long was very informative.






Link Posted: 10/19/2014 8:40:01 AM EDT
[#10]
Link Posted: 10/19/2014 4:05:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Old_Painless] [#11]
Link Posted: 10/20/2014 7:54:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Sierra5] [#12]
My bolt gun
I usually use Hoppes as my solvent.  Two wet patches, let sit, scrub in multiples of 10 when needed, two wet patches, then dry patch until fairly clean.   Once a year I'll strip the barrel out using one of the copper eaters.  My rilfe always shoots tighter and more consistantly when a little on the dirty side so I'm not too obsessive about getting a mirrored barrel every time I clean.  When I strip my barrel out once a year it takes 100-200 rounds to get it diry enough to come back in to where I like it.

I'm still figuring out what my OBR likes so its a little more random right now.
Link Posted: 10/20/2014 9:00:27 PM EDT
[#13]
i learned to clean after every 10-20 rounds at Thunder Ranch back when they were still in Texas.  I got smarter/lazier since then.   now i  clean a new barrel after every round until it stops copper fouling, and then i'll usually go 1500 rounds or so before i need to clean it again.
my current barrel seems a little unusual though.  i was seeing higher than normal SDs and as an experiment tried cleaning and sure enough, my SDs dropped in half, but only for 30-40 rounds then they were back up again.  I dunno.  always learning i guess... need to clean it a few times and see if it's repeatable

i don't use brushes until i get to 1500 rounds and then i scrub the crap out of it.   when it's new, patches are fine.  let the solvent do the work.   i also use 1/3 kroil, 2/3 shooter choice.  works pretty dang good.  i have a suspicion about anything would though.


i only push patches through one way, but that's because i don't want to dump solvent in my action, not because it's like rubbing the fur on a cat backwards or something.  

bore guides are a must.   proper diameter coated rod is also important.   and wipe down the friggin rod before you stick it back in the bore.  don't put dirt back in there.
Link Posted: 10/21/2014 11:08:54 PM EDT
[#14]
Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range....
Link Posted: 10/21/2014 11:23:38 PM EDT
[#15]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Slug-O:


Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range....
View Quote




 
Shoot it.  Seriously just shoot it.   I shot my brand new barrel and tested my load and everything was fine. I don't believe in the shooting and cleaning and shooting and cleaning.
Link Posted: 10/22/2014 1:50:59 AM EDT
[#16]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Slug-O:


Very interesting... I have a new Bartlin .260 barrel with zero rounds and am not sure what to do the first time at the range....
View Quote


My habit is to clean any factory gunk out, shoot 1 and wet/dry patch it for 5 rounds just to pay homage to the barrel gods.

Then I enjoy it and put a Moly layer down.

 
Link Posted: 10/22/2014 7:04:13 AM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 10/22/2014 7:14:16 AM EDT
[#18]
For bench cleaning Im pretty basic and just use a Dewey coated rod,jag/brushes with a Brownells bore guide and clean breech to muzzle.For field use I much prefer the OTIS 3gun kit I have.
Solvents:for normal cleaning good ole Hoppe's No.9 Nitro Solvent....for copper I prefer Sweets 7.62 or BoreTech.
Oil:Weapon Shield,Break Free CLP or Slip2000 Gun Lube.....whichever is on hand at the time.....not picky about which one anymore.
Link Posted: 10/22/2014 11:07:28 PM EDT
[#19]
I don't




Link Posted: 10/28/2014 9:18:28 PM EDT
[#20]
montana extreme cleaning rod

possum hollow bore guide

non-brass jags and nylon brushes

boretech eliminator

kroil
Link Posted: 11/12/2014 12:00:23 AM EDT
[#21]
Eliminator

Everything else, Bore Tech as well.
Link Posted: 2/4/2015 3:48:31 PM EDT
[#22]
Jb bore cleaning compound on bore snake followed by dry bore snake
Link Posted: 2/6/2015 12:52:03 PM EDT
[#23]
foam it "gun slick"



walk away for 30 min



brush it a bit

clean brush in a bottle of alchole



dry patches till clean.. 3 to 6



put some HBN on a patch and swab the bore..
Link Posted: 2/10/2015 2:43:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hydra-shokz:
Eliminator

Everything else, Bore Tech as well.
View Quote



Link Posted: 3/14/2015 8:05:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Currently, I am using the mpro7 products. I still have to use about 10-15 fouling shots after a bore cleaning before my 308 will shoot well. I buy cheap ammo for fouling. I clean the bore after every 120-150 rounds from my 308.  The mpro7 claim of making your bore easier to clean after continued use seems to be valid in my camp. I have never used any cleaning product that does not work. The mpro7 seems to work faster, and with no smell at all.

I still have one of the large bottles of Butches that I will use outside when it warms up. I don't want to waste it, but the smell stays in the house for days.

Both cleaners work best with bronze brushes.

I still want a reasonably priced bore scope to see what is going on. I have yet to see one in hand that I think is worth the money. One at a gun show was $199.00, but useless. It wouldn't go down a .30 bore. Another was $500.00, about $200.00 more than I am willing to spend. They wouldn't let me look through it anyway.
Link Posted: 4/24/2015 12:29:25 PM EDT
[#26]
mPro 7 Bore Gel, run a wet patch through, let sit for 5 minutes.

Put clean patches through until dry.

Put oil patch through.

Done.

I never use a brush unless I'm changing bullet brands, and possibly afraid of issues with the old copper fouling vs the new bullets.  Haven't had a drop in accuracy since I bought her back in 07.  1500+ rounds through the pipe.
Link Posted: 4/27/2015 5:22:43 AM EDT
[#27]
Factory barrels...who cares.

Premium barrels...they should not copper up after a few sessions.  

Carbon ring around the throat is an issue but it is mitigated with carbon cutter and a nylon brush with plenty of soak time.  GM Top Engine Cleaner works as well.  

I love Hoppes # 9.  It can't cause rust, can't damage the bore, and is mostly kerosene.  You can literally soak a bore in it forever and it will be fine.  

I don't clean mutch beyond rust prevention but if I have a dirty precision rifle, it gets wet patches of hoppes, soak time of overnight, more hoppes, brush a little one direction...then dry totally.  Don't forget the chamber/throat.

Use a bore guide...a good one and a coated rod.  

Never get solvent into your stock or trigger.
Link Posted: 4/27/2015 3:21:45 PM EDT
[#28]
For copper fouling KG12 is awesome.

KG1 is also excellent for removing carbon.

I subscribe to the you can do more harm cleaning the barrel than shooting it. When accuracy degrades clean the barrel.
Link Posted: 8/7/2015 10:27:52 AM EDT
[#29]
Shooters Choice.

1-2 wet patches then let sit for a few minutes. Barrel down I go after the chamber, then 2-3 passes with a bronze brush down the bore, then another 1-2 wet patches, then 3-5 dry patches, then a pass with a bore mop.
Link Posted: 8/7/2015 3:15:31 PM EDT
[#30]
Clean when rifle tells me to, and when the time comes for carbon only.  Example .308 Bartlein barrel goes well over 800 rounds before she wants to be cleaned.  Factory barrels will let you know sooner.

MP7 and a bronze brush.
Flush barrel with Brake clean.
MP7 and a bronze brush.
Flush with Brake Clean.
Push three patches.
Back to shooting.

That being said if the rifle gets wet it gets cleaned no matter how many rounds down the barrel.  If the rifle is going to be stored for months the rifle gets cleaned.

Those that shoot and clean, shoot and clean may never know the accuracy potential of their rifle.


Link Posted: 9/10/2015 1:06:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dangerdan] [#31]
Soaked bore brush with Kano Kroil several times through the barrel. Let it sit for about 20 minutes, wet patch soaked with Kano Kroil, then dry patch a few times.







In about 5 minutes after letting the Kroil do it's job, its nice and clean.
























I've tried Hoppes #9 several times, but it doesn't seem to work as good as Kroil and Kroil is cheaper and has more uses (because it's cheaper)




 









I haven't had to use copper solvent yet.
Link Posted: 10/8/2015 7:21:13 PM EDT
[#32]
I'm just a moron that likes to shoot, but for my precision bolt guns, I only use Wipe-Out bore foam and patches.

I hose it down the bore and let it sit for a couple hours.  Run a clean patch through.  If no blue, I'm done.  If blue, I hose it down a 2nd time and let it sit overnight.  When I run a clean patch through in the morning, it usually comes out a deep, brilliant blue, along with a lot of brown and black.  I then run a patch with some Weapon Shield on it, call it good, and put her away.

It seems to work great for me.  Perhaps I'm doing something wrong?
Link Posted: 11/24/2015 9:35:23 AM EDT
[#33]
I started using Seal1 cleaner about 3 years ago - it's a great all around cleaner for your gun.   www.Seal1.net
Link Posted: 12/25/2015 4:27:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: LoneStoner] [#34]
At the range, I make sure to run a patch and brush 2-3 strokes with a 50/50 mix of Kroil and Shooter's choice
after about every 25 rounds.

On my last string of shots at the range, I run a few patches and brush-strokes of 100% Hoppe's Benchrest and let it sit
overnight, then I start checking for copper "tell" on patches using nylon bore brushes.

I use Benchrest because it is the copper solvent, I don't think regular Hoppes #9 is formulated to remove copper.

Then, usually after about 10 brush strokes and patches, when the patches start to look
like most of the copper has been cleaned out, I run a mop with Hoppe's Elite thru
the barrel.

I like to use Benchrest (work on powder fouling, too) to clean fouling off the flash hider then coat it with Break Free LP (Not CLP) because it's thick and provides
protection against rust.

I run Hoppe's Benchrest thru barrel after about a week to see if any more copper gets leached
out.

Usually get a little, so I clean as shown above, the finish off with Ellite-soaked mop thru barrel, and re-coat every 6 months while "inactive"
Link Posted: 3/15/2016 11:23:19 AM EDT
[#35]
I use Mpro7/Hoppes Elite products. They seem to work just fine. They also allow me to clean inside of the house. The Butche's or Hoppes 9 stink up the house for hours. I have yet to find a cleaner that did not work well.
I do a complete bore clean every 200 to 250 rounds.
Link Posted: 6/10/2016 3:10:00 PM EDT
[#36]
I am pretty sure Hoppe does remove copper. I after alot of rounds through my JP barrel, I was told to do one more session with JB compund.
I ran it through multiple times, patches were black. Then I ran a hoppe soaked patch and it came out blue. few more, then all dry patches until clean

It seems that no one uses copper brushes in the precision barrels. Any reason? How could it damage the rifling, since copper is so much softer then steel?
and it seems like it would save the use of the copper removing chemical, but physically removing the buildup.

How about the Hoppes Tornado brushes? They are thin spiraled wound wire, that is very flexible. I use them in my revolvers. are they safe?
It just seems a nylon brush would do very little in removing copper buildup.

Link Posted: 7/18/2016 11:43:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MS556] [#37]
Hoppes #9 for general carbon and powder residue removal.  Butches Bore Shine for copper, especially after shooting monolithic solid copper bullets like Bsrnes TSX and TTSX.

If copper build up is extreme and Butches is not getting it all (patches still greenish) I go to Barnes CR-10.  It is the strongest copper solvent I know of, but does little for powder residue.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 2:43:53 AM EDT
[#38]
I've been using patch-out foaming bore cleaner in my 260.  Gets a absolute ton of copper and carbon fouling out of the barrel.

I usually foam the barrel, let it sit 60 minutes,drain, refoam, let it sit 60 minutes, then scrub gently with a nylon brush, followed by a few wet patches of liquid patch-out, followed by a few dry patches.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 2:36:39 PM EDT
[#39]
With good barrels, I have had good luck just using MPro-7 to get all carbon out, followed by Montana Xtreme for copper.

But with a mass production factory bolt rifle barrel, carbon can be stubborn. My most recent factory Remington barrel is really stubborn for carbon fouling. I found an excellent procedure of using Wipe Out foaming bore cleaner followed my MPro-7.  Basically, Wipe Out and let sit over night. Patch (this gets pretty much all the copper) and Wipe Out again. Let sit for a few hours. Patch and Wipe Out again. Let sit for an hour or so. Patch out and then flush with MPro-7 and nylon brush. After this, a few patches and it is carbon free and relatively copper free.
Link Posted: 1/15/2017 11:58:14 PM EDT
[#40]
After you get your barrel nice and clean, how many rounds till it shoots well again?
What do you use for fouling ammo?
Link Posted: 1/16/2017 11:00:55 AM EDT
[#41]
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