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Posted: 7/18/2021 6:34:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JohnCarter17]
Is this an easy thing to do? I am failing so far.
OK, maybe I shouldn't have started this, I have a mountain tactical rail I want to put on it. I have used some PB blaster, tapped it a bit, waiting, no joy. OTOH, its a real pain finding any solid bit to fit in those flat heads. Note the customized skid marks from an attempt with a power tool.  Attached FileI wasn't expecting it to be this difficult. I think the only thing I accomplished so far is remove the front stop? screw. |
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Posted: 7/2/2021 8:01:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JohnCarter17]
[#1]
And a side question.
I upgraded the bottom plastic on my Sporter with Mountain Tacticals metal version. I looked at 2 of their videos, and there was no mention of torque spec. What should be used for the bolts on the bottom metal? What is factory standard with the plastic bottom with its embedded washer? I am seeing torque specs (Googling) from 35-52 lbs/inch. EDIT Found on Tikkashooters.com 35 for wood laminate 45 for synthetic |
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Posted: 7/4/2021 8:19:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: cruze5]
[#2]
it takes HEAT. it is basically glued on
i used a iron for i forget how long unless it loosened up then i was able to pry it apart, you are wasting your time and breaking tools doing it whatever way you are now |
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Posted: 7/5/2021 9:07:58 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cruze5: it takes HEAT. it is basically glued on i used a iron for i forget how long unless it loosened up then i was able to pry it apart, you are wasting your time and breaking tools doing it whatever way you are now This is the way. I had a 20moa and then went 40moa. They make good stuff. |
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Posted: 7/6/2021 9:11:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: JohnCarter17]
[#4]
Are you talking about a clothes iron just sitting on the rail for 10 minutes or so?
Would a heat gun be too low powered? Are you separating the action and barrel from the synthetic stock or can it take the heat fine? |
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Posted: 7/6/2021 3:31:48 PM EDT
[#5]
The rail is glued to the gun
It takes extreme heat for 15 plus minutes to remove |
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Posted: 7/11/2021 9:17:02 AM EDT
[#6]
Probably not the right way to do it, but I used the very front screw (for a heat shroud) to lift up the front edge. I applied a little bit of heat with a hair dryer then screwed he front screw in instead of out. It lifted up the edge a tiny bit and I was able to get the edge of a flathead screwdriver under. Then I just rotated and the rail popped off.
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Posted: 7/13/2021 8:37:44 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TripleJ: Probably not the right way to do it, but I used the very front screw (for a heat shroud) to lift up the front edge. I applied a little bit of heat with a hair dryer then screwed he front screw in instead of out. It lifted up the edge a tiny bit and I was able to get the edge of a flathead screwdriver under. Then I just rotated and the rail popped off. I'll remember that.... If I ever get the !@#$@#$@#$@#$ screws out.. |
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Posted: 7/18/2021 12:08:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: JohnCarter17]
[#8]
Given the extra effort I bailed on removing the mount.
I did upgrade the recoil lug to the Mountain Tactical steel one (which probably doesn't matter that much on a 223) I previously upgraded the bolt shroud to the metal one from Mountain Tactical. T3 223 CTR with SWFA 3x9 HD (mil quad) mounted w/ Aadmount rings and caps.  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/18/2021 6:34:28 PM EDT
[#9]
Topic Moved
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Posted: 11/14/2021 6:00:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: JohnCarter17]
[#10]
And done.
20-30 seconds with heat gun resting on rail above each screw, a few light taps and then screw removed. Some tapping on under side of sides of rail and done. I don't know what will clean the excess glue on top of receiver so I left it. Old rail to left, new rail (Mountain Tactical 20MOA) mounted, a little overzealous with leftmost bolt when tightening, half stripped like an oaf. I'll do the trigger spring upgrade next, while everything is out.  Attached File |
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