Typically, I’ve only seen gas port relocation done when going shorter (i.e.: cutting a midlength/rifle down to carbine). I read a suggestion somewhere that you can plug a gas port and relocate it forward as well. Well I found a guy selling some 22” & 24” rifle gas 6.5CM barrels (DPMS extension spec) - he had a criterion and a Bartlein. Would saving some money on a premium barrel that only has rifle length gas and relocating the gas port be very detrimental to accuracy, if at all? I’ve read that anything 20” or longer in 6.5CM really requires a longer gas port than rifle to solve the timing issues caused by high port pressures.

I’ve seen suggestions from just covering it with a plugged/reversed gas block or tap it for a set screw to actually welding the hole over. I’m thinking that regardless on how well I plugged a barrel, there’s still be a small spot in there to collect fouling.

Or am I overthink this... should I buy the basically almost a half-priced Bartlein from a guy at our gun club?

Both mine are 22" with rifle length gas. Adjustable gas block and tuning an SCS to H2 weight took care of everything.

I’ve read that the adjustable gas can take care of the excessive gas and hard cycling, but it ultimately does not cure the timing issue.

Can you run a wide variety of loads without having to retune the gas on your gun?

I've posted about it before, but I had a 260 Rem 20" RLGS Lilja barrel that I wouldn't recommend to anyone.

In my experience, a RLGS, even with an adjustable gas block is no good on the 6.5 platform.

Perhaps it depends on the gas port size; the lilja was drilled ~.020 wider than the +2 Proof Research barrel that replaced it.

I've never looked into plugging a gas port, but I wouldn't imagine you'd have too many issues with it.

I have a 20" 6.5CM Faxon with rifle-length gas and an SLR gas block. Shoots great, easy on brass. OP, I think you're worrying too much about the issue. Get a barrel and an adjustable gas block and shoot it.

@SuperDutyMikeMc

Did you have an adjustable gas block on it?

@Pneumagger

Yup, had an SLR Sentry 7 on the Lilja, and have an SLR Sentry 8 on the Proof.

The Lilja just wouldn't tame down with the adjustable block. You would set it maybe ~3 clicks from closed, and it wouldn't cycle; open it another click and it would cycle 100%, but it would be trashing brass like crazy.

It ruined a set of Lapua brass in ~2-3 firings.

I guess I'm just lucky. I have a 24" noveske with a rifle length gas system. By most accounts it should be awful but it's not hard on brass even with some stiff h4350 loads. Slash xh buffer and slr adjustable block.

I stick between 120-140+. GB and buffer affect timing.

This is the case with both 6.5 Creedmoor and 6mm Creedmoor. For the 6mm I usually stay in the higher projectile weights as well.

Similar issues.  I'd lose primer pockets with warm loads.  Reducing gas didn't help.  22" with rlgs.

I'm actually swapping to a rifle buffer and PRS stock to help.  Already using slash heavy buffer, tubbs spring, jp FMOS bcg...it's better, just not where I want it.

Other option is to just shoot the barrel you have, then get a Rainier Match to replace it down the line.  They offer a +2" gas system and the Match barrels are under 4 bills.

Rainier match is a nice barrel. That's what my 6.5 Creedmoor is. The 6mm is a Wilson Combat and it's a great barrel too.

My 308 is a Rainier Match; Blackout is a Select.  They've got good kit.  Match and Ultramatch chambers are definitely on the small side of the SAAMI spec though.