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Posted: 5/8/2022 9:20:34 PM EDT
Hi, i'm going to start off by saying my experience with mounting optics is red dots and pre-mounted prisms...thus I did not do an adequate job of mounting a mil PST2 3-15x and a PST2 1-4x on two rifles. It turns out using a flat surface to parallel my reticle off of is not a successful idea.
 What kit do you suggest I use to level the reticle? The Wheeler has mixed reviews and nothing on Amazon looks remotely like it stands a chance of being able to level itself from the reviews. Defensive Edge's kit looks like some of the homebrew kits I've seen on YouTube, but (as money has gotten quite tight recently) i'm hesitant to spend that kind of money on something that might be crap, and will be used about six times in my life. TIA for your tips and suggestions. |
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USA
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Posted: 5/8/2022 9:43:20 PM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 5/8/2022 9:50:35 PM EDT
[#2]
As long as your scope has a flat surface parallel to a flat surface on the mount and/or rifle...
This has treated me well and is pretty foolproof: https://arisakadefense.com/optic-leveler-combo/ |
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Posted: 5/8/2022 10:41:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fks4l: As long as your scope has a flat surface parallel to a flat surface on the mount and/or rifle... This has treated me well and is pretty foolproof: https://arisakadefense.com/optic-leveler-combo/ When it fits , this is the only answer |
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Posted: 5/8/2022 10:45:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 50-140]
[#4]
If your scope has a flat bottom and you have a rail or scope base, the old feeler gauge method will get you damn close, when used in conjunction with a plumb bob you're good to go.
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Posted: 5/9/2022 1:53:54 AM EDT
[#5]
I use a small 2" electronic level and a stringline....
 Attached FileThis is a good test to verify its right...  Scope Tracking: Tall Target Test | Applied Ballistics with Bryan Litz |
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Posted: 5/9/2022 6:11:24 AM EDT
[#6]
I'm happy with the arisaka kit.
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Posted: 5/9/2022 6:52:22 AM EDT
[#7]
Where it works, the fix-it-sticks leveler is pretty damn good.
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Posted: 5/9/2022 8:34:13 AM EDT
[#8]
I mount the rings where they need to be on the rail and then use an old small level I got years ago on the rail to level the rifle then set the scope into rings and level the scope with level on elevation knob and slowly tighten rear ring watching level. Then pop the front ring cap on and check on a plumb but haven't had one off yet.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/9/2022 8:45:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#9]
I use a plumb bob and a high viz line for the leveling process.
 If you plan to use the rifle to shoot any medium to long range targets, you should probably put a level on your scope tube as well.  When you mount the scope, you don't need a precise level. Mount what looks right and feels reasonably comfortable. THEN, use the plumb line to set the bubble level before you tighten it down. And don't forget to check that the bubble level is set correctly AFTER you have tightened it down... 
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Posted: 5/9/2022 9:29:40 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Reorx: If you plan to use the rifle to shoot any medium to long range targets, you should probably put a level on your scope tube as well. https://drwzpk38qkpfb.cloudfront.net/www.hollandguns.com/uploaded/images/Categories/scope%20level-700.jpg When you mount the scope, you don't need a precise level. Mount what looks right and feels reasonably comfortable. THEN, use the plumb line to set the bubble level before you tighten it down. And don't forget to check that the bubble level is set correctly AFTER you have tightened it down... Are you saying mount the scope loose and then before tightening the rings use the plumb to level the reticle and then tighten rings and then mount the mounted scope level to the same level using the plumb? Reads kind of odd. |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 5/9/2022 6:37:34 PM EDT
[#11]
I have both the Arisaka leveler kit and Fix-it-Sticks Scope Jack. Both are far superior to any other method when mounting on a single-piece picatinny rail. If you don’t have a single-piece top rail to index the scope turret bottom off of, then I would recommend something like the Fix-it-Sticks bubble level kit.
Or the Defensive Edge kit you looked at. That said, I would note that front-to-rear/Z-axis leveling of the weapon is irrelevant to leveling a scope, and Defensive Edge’s #3 level insert is arguably a waste of your money if you’re concerned about the cost. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/9/2022 10:13:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Reorx]
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rob01: Are you saying mount the scope loose and then before tightening the rings use the plumb to level the reticle and then tighten rings and then mount the mounted scope level to the same level using the plumb? Reads kind of odd. |
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Posted: 5/10/2022 8:44:08 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Reorx: Not exactly. I usually mount the scope "by eye" to be pretty close but "comfortable" - it's usually within a few degrees of "perfectly square". Then with the scope mounted and rings tightened to torque spec., I level the reticle (by adjusting the rifle cant) and then set the bubble level to read "level" and then torque it down to spec as well... The result is that the bubble and the reticle are exactly leveled to each other but not necessarily to the rifle (exactly) - I mean it's pretty close just not necessarily "perfect". Ok. I must be missing something but not sure why you wouldn't level the scope properly and then install the level at proper level as well. Why have something close but not perfect on the set up? |
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Posted: 5/11/2022 10:17:31 AM EDT
[#14]
Thanks everyone.
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Posted: 5/11/2022 10:25:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: BuckeyeRifleman]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rob01: Ok. I must be missing something but not sure why you wouldn't level the scope properly and then install the level at proper level as well. Why have something close but not perfect on the set up? I think what he’s saying is mounting the scope to rifle “level” (having the crosshairs perfectly level to let’s say the picitanny rail) isn’t necessary for precision at range. However a precise scope to scope level (IE making sure the crosshairs are exactly level when the level mounted to the scope is level) is what is critical when shooting at distance. I’m OCD about both, but what he’s saying is correct. |
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Posted: 5/11/2022 12:16:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: I think what he’s saying is mounting the scope to rifle “level” (having the crosshairs perfectly level to let’s say the picitanny rail) isn’t necessary for precision at range. However a precise scope to scope level (IE making sure the crosshairs are exactly level when the level mounted to the scope is level) is what is critical when shooting at distance. I’m OCD about both, but what he’s saying is correct. I know there are people like FClass shooters or high power guys who have a canted rifle for their body position and have the scope level and it works but I am not overly OCD but if doing it and getting it set up right I just don’t see the advantage to just eyeing the scope to rifle and then get the reticle to level level. You can do all very easily. Takes me about 10 min to mount a scope with everything level. |
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Posted: 5/11/2022 3:46:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rob01: I know there are people like FClass shooters or high power guys who have a canted rifle for their body position and have the scope level and it works but I am not overly OCD but if doing it and getting it set up right I just don’t see the advantage to just eyeing the scope to rifle and then get the reticle to level level. You can do all very easily. Takes me about 10 min to mount a scope with everything level. I have a friend who has his rifle canted to the scope and level, he does it because of the shape of his shoulders and how the gun fits into his shoulder..if he levels everything the butt pad digs in at one spot and is painful... |
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Posted: 5/11/2022 3:56:52 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AKSnowRider: I have a friend who has his rifle canted to the scope and level, he does it because of the shape of his shoulders and how the gun fits into his shoulder..if he levels everything the butt pad digs in at one spot and is painful... As I said I understand that and if a reason but not just because. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2022 7:41:13 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rob01: As I said I understand that and if a reason but not just because. |
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ID, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2022 3:48:04 PM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By MoparMike: Hi, i'm going to start off by saying my experience with mounting optics is red dots and pre-mounted prisms...thus I did not do an adequate job of mounting a mil PST2 3-15x and a PST2 1-4x on two rifles. It turns out using a flat surface to parallel my reticle off of is not a successful idea. I'm in the same boat. Not a precision shooter, just trying to get it mounted & leveled. The pros may scoff at this & call me a jackass, but it's simple & good enough for starters. I first tried the usual stuff: rifle leveled & held tight upright, plumb-bob outside 50 or so feet away to be in-focus, waiting for wind to die down, constant re-aiming/twiddling to get it right. Then, by pure coincidence, stumbled into a method that that could be done indoors without buying any expensive "specialty" tools, and never even have to look thru the scope. Rifle propped up & leveled via bipod on dining table, plumb-bob hanging on a white/light color wall/door/other 4-6' behind scope, strong LED flashlight pointed down the scope, reticle is project onto surface. Turn scope until reticle/stadia parallel to plumb-bob line, cinch down. Hardest part is holding the flashlight aligned to scope bore. I'm working on a coupling tube for hands-off. 
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NH, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2022 5:44:51 PM EDT
[#21]
some info for you re/ scope mounting takes time but well worth it.
https://ridgelineshooting.com/precision-rifle-set-up-part-iii/ Regards, PeterNNH |
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Posted: 7/27/2022 8:08:59 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Arnery: I'm in the same boat. Not a precision shooter, just trying to get it mounted & leveled. The pros may scoff at this & call me a jackass, but it's simple & good enough for starters. I first tried the usual stuff: rifle leveled & held tight upright, plumb-bob outside 50 or so feet away to be in-focus, waiting for wind to die down, constant re-aiming/twiddling to get it right. Then, by pure coincidence, stumbled into a method that that could be done indoors without buying any expensive "specialty" tools, and never even have to look thru the scope. Rifle propped up & leveled via bipod on dining table, plumb-bob hanging on a white/light color wall/door/other 4-6' behind scope, strong LED flashlight pointed down the scope, reticle is project onto surface. Turn scope until reticle/stadia parallel to plumb-bob line, cinch down. Hardest part is holding the flashlight aligned to scope bore. I'm working on a coupling tube for hands-off. http://www.nullTime.com/NAR/SLx/projected-reticle.jpg Awesome! Basic home brew of this. Real Avid |
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Posted: 7/27/2022 3:05:24 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By UnaStamus: I have both the Arisaka leveler kit and Fix-it-Sticks Scope Jack. Both are far superior to any other method when mounting on a single-piece picatinny rail. If you don’t have a single-piece top rail to index the scope turret bottom off of, then I would recommend something like the Fix-it-Sticks bubble level kit. Or the Defensive Edge kit you looked at. That said, I would note that front-to-rear/Z-axis leveling of the weapon is irrelevant to leveling a scope, and Defensive Edge’s #3 level insert is arguably a waste of your money if you’re concerned about the cost. Yeah I pretty much just use the Arisaka leveling kit. That gets everything right on point. If I can't use the kit (distance between top of pic rail/bottom of scope is too tight then I just use two levels - one on the pic rail and one on top of the elevation turret. |
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Posted: 8/6/2022 3:45:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: rpoL98]
[#24]
I use the Badger Ordnance scope leveler (Brownells)
and a bubble level on top of the turret. I'm having to do it often enough that it was worth the initial outlay. |
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