I know I've been a ghost here recently but I just got into reloading and have a question or two.  I would have posted this under the AR 15 subforum but I didn't see a reloading category so my rifle might not be precise enough for this category lol.

Anyways, here goes:

1) with an emphasis on the AR platform is there any reloading manual that's better suited for semi's?  I was told on another forum (pafoa) that there's a difference between loading for a semi and for other action types.  I've got no clue as to which manual would be better, so I need a little guidance

2) I currently have H4895 after having seen I can use it for .223 & .243 which are my only rifle calibers.  Should I stick with it or go to another .223 powder?  I.E is there any major downside to using it in 223?  Current projectiles are Hornady 55gr pointed soft point varmint

I should add that I'm not looking specifically for 1 hole groups at 100 yards (would be nice though lol) but rather a good plinking & coyote round.

My sierra manual lists different load data for .223's (24" manual) and 20" gas guns.

I believe the nosler and lee manuals also do, but can't quite remember.

You should be able to cook up a load that works using the h4895, afaik it seems common and is listed in all 3 of my manuals.

Sierra and Hornady have service rifle/semi auto/AR data. The main difference is port pressure and gas volume affecting carrier velocity and recoil. Go far enough outside the ideal burn rate and charge, and you get short cycles, or ripped rims, whereas a bolt action might just show some primer cratering and have a heavier bolt lift.

In general, slower than IMR4198 and faster than IMR4320 functions well with published Start through Max loads. Standard ARs in 5.56 are mostly limited by case capacity and length to gas port.

H4895 is my preferred powder overall. May not make the absolute fastest muzzle velocity, but 25gr should be rather precise with your bullet and kill yotes good enough.

ETA: the regular reloading forum is in the Armory here - https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Reloading/42/

Appreciate both responses & the proper location of the normal reloading section

I'm glad you mentioned 25gr of H4895. That was the first loading I tried with Remington 6 1/2 and mixed brass and I had 2 out of 5 primers pierce on me.  They were needle point holes but still pierced

I've gotten conflicting information on a few forums. Some say they've used the 6 1/2 with no issue, others have said they're not suitable for the AR. I found a printer comparison chart that shows the 6 1/2 match to CCI 400s & I haven't heard any complaints about them. It's very possible my seating depth was off. Would that result in the piercing?

If I remember right, Johnny’s reloading bench did some high pressure work ups and found that he pierced Remington primers with even normal/hot loads. He went back to CCI.

As for seating depth, I’d expect that a deeply seated bullet would create a higher than expected pressure, but it’s guesswork on my part as to how bad. You definitely don’t want to keep making loads that get pierced.

The REM 7 1/2 is good to go for AR15 work, but not the 6 1/2.

The 6 1/2 were meant for low pressure rounds and some of the boxes are marked to that effect. The cup is weaker and is known to pierce and leak at 223 pressures. This isn’t good for the bolt face or firing pin.

The REM 7 1/2 on the other hand, is a very popular primer for the AR Service Rifle competition crowd and is rated for the highest pressures.

Remington 6.5s are for small, low pressure cases like .22 Hornet. The 7.5s are a great magnum.

CCI 400s will handle .223 load data, and a bit beyond in my experience, but not quite ripsnortin' 5.56 loads. Slamfires are more likely with uncleaned pockets, in my experience. I prefer the thicker cup of the 450s, but 400s are more common in stores.

Do check your firing pin tip. If it's damaged much, it may cause a slamfire or puncture even with magnum primers.

Regarding your questions

1
Loading for bolt vs semi is more than what's listed in books. For example oal and seating for mag length vs lands

2
There are a lot of good 223/556 powders. 25gr H335 is a known good load for 55gr soft points. You can get those projectiles for a decent price in the EE.

I'll have to pick up some 7 1/2 or 400s in the future then. I use a primer pocket cleaner (Lee basic chucked in a cordless drill) but I'll be ordering a primer pocket reamer soon since I have a good amount of crimped pockets.  From my understanding, the reamer also uniforms the pocket depth (I could be wrong, feel free to correct me)

I've visually inspected the pin & subsequent brass I fired from the same rifle & all appears good so far.

One of the first things I checked for is a slam fire situation, more so because of primer depth & floating pin but so far so good. Regardless, muzzle is always pointed down range or at the dirt in front of me when chambering a round (reload or factory) just to be on the safe side. I was born with this many bits & pieces & I plan on keeping them ALL until I die

Hopefully I can get to a show soon and get a decent deal on primers, powder seeing as how most of the shops here don't carry much reloading gear except maybe 1 shop I know of. Hopefully I remember to swing by tomorrow & see what they have since it's near my preferred range

Should have done a bit more research before I bought the 6 1/2's but hind sight is 20/20. The Hodgdons annual manual I have shows 2.200 for all but 1 of the 55gr flavors & that oddball is shorter. I know MAX mag length is 2.260 but even at 2.200 I'm barely hitting the cannelure. I don't want to seat them TOO deep but the cannelure is there for a reason, isn't it?

& Yeah, I don't want to create an excessive pressure situation but the funny thing is, the primers arent flattened or extruded through the firing pin hole or have an ejector mark, so WTH?

Now that I have a Chronograph I can at least get an idea of what's going on. I can't measure chamber pressure like the pro's do but velocity is directly related to pressure so I have that going for me at least

I don't know why they make crimp cannelures so far up bullets. If you don't crimp, 2.250" should be just dandy.

Can't really seat too deep pressure-wise unless the bullet is excessively compressing the powder.

I see the 7 1/2's or CCI in my future but right now I have quite a few 6 1/2's on hand & the AR is the only caliber I have that uses a small rifle primer. If I keep pressure on the lower end I should be OK.  I downgraded the 25gr load to a 22gr load for another 55gr bullet to see if it was a mix up in projectile data & with FPS around 2300 my rifle cycled fine & primers were completely normal. Only shot 5 rounds with that charge but I could maintain it as my "plinker" load and burn up the primers that way

Hell I've even seen some "mouse fart" loads that I kind of, just a little want to try. They're subsonic (1000-1200fps) & call for pistol powder but might be fun with a can or on furry little bastards that like my basement!!  Move to Pennsylvania they said, it'll be fun they said. They DIDN'T say there's woodchucks, raccoons, possums, skunks, porcupines & stotes (I think that's what they are, look like ferrets but smaller & wild) that like to take shelter in your house & under your car

The two most common crimp removal tools are the Hornady reamer and the Dillon swager.

The Hornady tool is cheap and works well for small quantities of brass.  It is far superior to using a deburring tool as some do, because the bottom is a blunt-ended depth stop.  You can use it manually with the Hornady handle or can chuck it in an electric screwdriver or drill.  It does not uniform the primer pockets, but that is unnecessary IMO unless shooting 600 yards or further.

The Dillon primer pocket swager is expensive but works really well for large quantities of brass.

If you want to uniform primer pockets, I recommend using the Sinclair primer pocket uniformer with a cordless drill or screwdriver.

hth,
dcat

I looked into the Hornady and Lyman handheld ones. I can get the Lyman locally for the same price as online, haven't seen the Hornady one in person but they seem about the same as far as the business end goes & the same price. I would prefer a swager but for now $10 versus $40 for the RCBS press mounted one, $10 it is.

I didn't think I had to uniform my pockets for plinking & yotes, I just assumed the reamer also uniformed. If I were to get into serious competition I would consider it but for now I see no reason

Slightly different topic but I'm considering using WC844 pulldown powder since it can be had for roughly $130 for 8lbs & is comparable to H335. If I can find it at a show & eliminate haz mat, I might just pick it up. It has the benefit of being used in my 243 as well for vmax loads