Was looking at the Redding Match set for $200, but then another reloading buddy told me that out of all the dies he's ever used, Lee impressed him the most due to their factory crimp die: https://leeprecision.com/308-win-ultimate-die-set.html

Lee is also easy on the wallet, but the old saying of "you get what you pay for" has me still willing to pony up the $200 for the Redding set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TABVUK/?coliid=I2M3BS2MF7SITD&colid=11KJ928M7MK5P&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Here's the Lee set, which is about 1/5th of the price: https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Reloading-LP90695-Ultimate/dp/B00HAN37H8/ref=sr_1_1

Also considering that I've heard (is it true?) that reloading brass that's been fired from your gun for your gun only requires neck sizing. It seems the Lee set comes with that and the Redding set does not.

I don't crimp bottle neck rifle cartridges..308 or otherwise...As for dies, I have a bit of everything, but on the long range stuff its Redding dies individual shoulder only and neck only dies, for bullet seating my go to is forester...

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So left to right.. RCBS universal decapper/Sinclair mandrel die/Redding shoulder die/Redding neck bushing die/ Forester seating die....

That does not mean you can't make perfectly good rounds with any set of dies, just my setup is what is working for me...consistency is the key...

Lee dies are ok, especially in pistol calibers, they are not what I would call suitable for a long range precision rig and I would not advise crimping unless you need to to prevent recoil induced bullet set-back. There's a time and a place for everything, and it's called college. Lee dies are great to learn with since most reloaders will probably bugger up at least one die while learning what not to do.

You don't say what kind of rifle you're using (bolt/semi/crack barrel/rolling block/etc...) so any information you get is unlikely to be well tuned to your needs. Focus first on what KIND of dies, not what brand. Then you can think about brand intelligently. Get ready, the road gets gravelly from here on. I'll be using terms about die types and not defining them because YOU NEED TO GO LEARN ABOUT THE KINDS OF DIES THAT EXIST so you can choose the right ones for you.

If you're on a bolt gun, you'll do well to get a bushing type neck sizer (with a small assortment of bushings) and a full length sizer. You may want a micrometer seater or not, I don't think it's going to matter for a new reloader right away. I personally like Hornady New Dimension seaters for most things and Redding micrometer seaters for things that I use multiple weights of bullets in.

If you're on a gas gun, you'll want to have a small base full length die on hand and a regular full length die as well as the seater of your choice. All of my small base dies are RCBS but I'm sure others (other than lee) are just fine.

You should also consider getting a universal decapping die and pulling the expander mandrel and decapper out of whatever sizing die you pick.

EDIT: Also, what AKSnowRider said should be paid attention to.

Ditto. I don't crimp them for any reason, precision rifle or otherwise.

I use Dillon dies for .223 and .308, Redding for 6.5 Creedmoor- regular 2-die set (no micrometer nonsense), and those are what I'll get for 7mm Mag when I start with that cartridge. Add a neck sizer die if you're shooting a bolt action.

Don't bother with the factory crimp die...don't need it. For years I've used the Lee collet dies. Use them on my .222,.223,6.5 CM, and my .308. Would have gotten one for my 338LM but the die is too big to go into my press.

I use Arbor press for my loads above 700 yards... it requires different dies (LE Wilson seating dies). I do also use Redding and Forster dies (both with neck bushings) for my 308 bolt and 6.5 creedmoor...