Alright folks need your help sorting a problem out. Here is what we have.

Remington 700 in a masterpiece arms chassis
Badger rail.
American rifle company rings.
Zero compromise scope

I can level the scope true. Using arisaka scope mounter device. Everything is true and level. Same level measured across three points. The chassis itself. The base. The scope cap and the scope tube itself from the underside. When on the gun the reticle looks fantastic counter clockwise. My buddy can confirm this as he sees it as well.

What am I doing wrong?

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With everything mounted up have you used a plumb line to see if the reticle is actually canted not just some sort of illusion? While ZC makes fantastic scopes, it is always possible it does have a canted reticle.

I have the same chassis OP, I use a plumb line to set the reticle, then use a tall target to check it at the range at 100 yards to verify it stays straight as I dial my dope...

This is actually a tall target and a box target combined....

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I will say OP, the plumb of the rifle really doesn't matter, so long as the reticle is plumb when the trigger is pulled...and the scope internals are square with each other and the reticle...

How level is the table or bench it’s resting on?  Check that first and report back before you fuck something up.

Level your gun/stock. Use a plumb bob 20+ yards away.


Send me ammunition and we’ll call it even

What does that matter if the rifle itself is sitting level in its chassis?

What exactly is there for me to fuck up?

This.

Something about the way righties mount the stock. If ambidexterity isn't a concern, level the reticle to your shooting position. With ARs, I turn it about <5*CW to counter the illusion and let my firing arm be in a more neutral state.

Before leveling, did you make sure your cross hairs were mechanically centered.  If someone has moved the dials to an edge, you may have a problem.  Count clicks, divide by two and center for a starting place.

If your bench is not level, the error will transfer up into the bag your gun is resting in, up thru the gun and your bubble level may show level but it it is actually not because your scope is actually rotated slightly.  Try leveling the table without moving the gun then check the gun. You might be surprised and your scope more than likely has no issue. Not sure if this is making sense.

What I do is mount the scope on my rifle so that it looks pretty good to the eye when I am behind the optic/rifle.  I use no special tools or levels.  Then I attach a scope tube level (will be installed permanently on the scope tube) and hang a plumb line from a tree @ an appropriate distance.  With the rifle on the bipod and a rear bag, I square up the reticle with the plumb line.  Then carefully adjust the scope tube level to read level and then tighten it down (I use a little loctite blue or purple).  Then one last check to make sure that nothing moved during the tightening process.  If so, I give the loctite a day to cure and then have fun shooting my leveled reticle.  One nice advantage of using a level that is on the scope tube is that if you ever move the optic to a different rifle, the level stays with the scope and you don't need to re-level it!  

Other posters are right, small amounts of cant can be difficult to impossible to "see" when you are on the scope and likewise, external references (like turrets or other flats on the outside of the optic) are not guaranteed to be absolutely square to the reticle.  That is why I don't waste my time fiddling with them too much.  I do have 2 small bubble levels that I sometimes throw across the rail or the top turret to see if things are "close" but I don't pay much attention unless something seems to be very wrong which hasn't happened to me so far...

I have some of those little levels. Mine are not true. Find something flat and verify with a carpenter's level and check the little level to see if it is true.

I discovered all of them were inaccurate!

I used to think some of mine were canted until I started using the plum bob trick.