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Posted: 12/9/2019 2:05:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: snakeyes711]
Was looking at, tubbs fire lapping bullets. Probably put the og thread in the wrong forum.
Thinking on trying these as a last ditch effort before going with a criterion. Probably will only use the last 3 grit bullets since I've got 200rds down the tube. Its a 18" SS barrel. @bfoosh06 |
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What is the issue and what are you trying to do with the bullets? Barrel only has 200 rounds? Caliber and semi auto?
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Oh, sry i thought i put a link to the thread.
It's a pa10 308. SS 18" barrel. And see people using this system for accuracy. Basically it won't group better than. 2-3 inches with both 168, 175gr fgmm loads. |
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You can try it. Won't hurt from the sounds of it. I actually used the TMS rounds in my 20" PSA.
If you use the Final Finish do like you were planning and only using the 3 finest grits. Clean the barrel very well getting all the copper out before using them and between each grit. |
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Roger that! Ive got them in there cart at midwayusa right now.
What I'll do is shoot a group with fgmm loads. Clean the barrel, shoot the tubbs FF. Then shoot another group with the fgmm. And post pictures, this may be what the pa10 ss 308 upper barrel's need. If it goes wrong, I'm looking at the new barrel anyway, and I'm out the 35 bucks for the tubbs. |
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Yup might as well try it. Won't hurt anything in that rifle. Follow the directions on how to load the bullets and powder to use. Hopefully it helps.
Did you try taking the A2 flash suppressor and shoot it? Sometimes they can effect accuracy. |
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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I'd try cleaning the barrel with JB Bore Polish, Kroil and VFG pellets first. BE SURE TO BUY the Adapter for the pellets ( All available at Brownells and with the current free shipping coupon, it is stuff you will use again )
You can adjust the "fit" of the pellets to the bore, by simply threading them on further / tighter... Or looser, if desired... Brownells - Using JB Bore Paste and Kroil with the VFG Bore Pellets SS barrels take a little longer to break in. Do you have a bore cam you could use / borrow ? I'd check the leade and throat first... that is a critical area for your barrel. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2019/10/50-teslong-borescope-works-great-full-review-with-videos/ From Kriegers webpage .... https://kriegerbarrels.com/faq#breakin "Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file. When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure. From BA's webpage... "No matter how polished the finish is inside the chamber of a barrel, tooling marks in the throat will always be across the direction of projectile travel. When a bullet is fired, copper dust that is dissolved in the expanding hot gasses, travels through the bore and then condenses on the bore and the rifling. To the untrained eye, fouling appears to be caused by the bore due to the projectile travel but in fact it is the cross sectional feed lines in the throat that cause fouling. Now, with this understanding we see that barrel break in is really a smoothing effect about the throat." I have gently polished throats before... but that is another subject. I'd try the Kroil , JB Bore polish and VFG pellets first. As mentioned, you will use all of that stuff again... great cleaning system, IMHO. And it will hone the bore pretty danged smooth. The fire lapping might help, but as always no guarantees. I have always considered fire-lapping a last ditch effort. |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. TOGC,IADC |
Interesting reading.
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. TOGC,IADC |
The Tubb bullets will smooth that throat area out and why I said to clean the bore very well before using them as you want the lapping grit to hit the steel and not copper. It will actually do more than the usual shot one and clean "break in".
As I said I have used the FF and TMS rounds with good results. The TMS are good for custom barrels as it's a very fine grit. Finer than the lapping compounds. Here is a piece I wrote on them. First part was written in 2001 on the old Sniper Country but I added the TMS later. http://teamblaster.net/reviews/TubbFFTMS.pdf |
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Wow thanks rob. I actually read that article before i posted this. Thanks for feedback and advice. I'll post back next week if i can get to the range.
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Think I asked before but forgot but where in NC are you?
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Just north of winston salem
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Ah ok. I am just south of Fuquay Varina.
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http://www.teamblaster.net
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Originally Posted By Rob01:
The Tubb bullets will smooth that throat area out and why I said to clean the bore very well before using them as you want the lapping grit to hit the steel and not copper. It will actually do more than the usual shot one and clean "break in". As I said I have used the FF and TMS rounds with good results. The TMS are good for custom barrels as it's a very fine grit. Finer than the lapping compounds. Here is a piece I wrote on them. First part was written in 2001 on the old Sniper Country but I added the TMS later. http://teamblaster.net/reviews/TubbFFTMS.pdf View Quote |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. TOGC,IADC |
So i got the FF kit today. Upon reading the directions, it says only use the #3, 4, 5 buillets for an acceptable shooting barrel. which they define as shooting 1/2". Versus shooting 1 1/2" groups. Now I (and you) am thoroughly confused.
Bfoosh06 |
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I jokingly refer to that kit as the Finally Finish because of what the whole thing will do to a barrel.
I still only recommend the finest two or three grits (2 really) and it would really help if you had a borescope to check it after each shot. |
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"And then I woke up."
"You can make O6 or keep your integrity.” -Sylvan |
Originally Posted By ziarifleman:
I jokingly refer to that kit as the Finally Finish because of what the whole thing will do to a barrel. I still only recommend the finest two or three grits (2 really) and it would really help if you had a borescope to check it after each shot. View Quote Ok, I'll only load up the last two grits. |
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Ok, range report!
I fired this group at 100yds with a 175smk load similar to fgmm. The range i went to didn't have any bags or rests or anything so i fired this group off the bipod with my hand on the rear stock. Attached File Then the 30 rounds of the FF kit using 41.5gr varget cleaning in between grits. I then fired 4-5 old hornady sst loads from a few years ago to foul the barrel a bit. Then i had some actual fgmm i found in my box. This time i shot off a block of wood with a rag under it and my hand on the stock. I feel i may shoot better off a front bag than a bi pod. Plus the table wasn't level at all to begin with. So i felt i may do better with out the bipod. Attached File Success i believe! The vertical is no doubt my fault. Over all i feel the bore is a lot smoother, significantly less resistance on that final clean. I also noticed the last ff buillets , were printing higher and higher, which even though i didn't have my chrono i feel it improved velocity. Also i zeroed my sons ruger amer. Off the block And it printed this .710" group. Attached File If you can notice the top right was initial shots from the bipod. The last group was a bag. I feel you in fact do shoot better off a bag instead of a bipod. @bfoosh06 |
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Very Nice !!
Looks like it worked well for you and your barrel ! Might give it a try on a stinker barrel I have been trying to "fix" for a friend. |
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*Hold on to your AR-15s. Their magic must be very powerful, or they wouldn’t want them.*
JAFOM.... Just another fat old man. TOGC,IADC |
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