I have bedded those SPS stocks a few times, I think it certainly is worth it. And what have you got to loose, a cheap plastic stock? I have not had one damaged or need rebedding yet. Have had a 308 for over 10 years, a 270 & 22-250 for around 5 years.
I use a dremel/foredom and a carbide cutting bit, a small twisted fluted bit. Hog out the stock around the recoil lug, action screw holes and the footprint of the action. I try for at least 1/8" clearance. I then like to stipple the areas epoxy will go with a soldering iron on synthetic stocks. This helps get a good mechanical bond as well as burning off any mold release or other oils that might be in the stock.
I like to put aluminum pillars and free float the barrel channel. I degrease the stripped barreled action and put a layer of tape on the front and bottom of the recoil lug and put wax in the nooks and openings to dam off the epoxy. I coat the action and first couple inches of barrel with Johnson Paste Wax as a release agent. Coat the action screws with release agent as well as the screw holes in the action. Wrap a few layers of tape around the barrel to center it in the stock.
I then "paint" a thin layer of epoxy on the stippling, ensuring that it is covering and holding. Then gob on a little excess epoxy and set the barreled action in it. I then put the action screws in and tighten them down only enough to get everything sitting where it should. I clean up any oozing epoxy with Qtips and then Qtips with rubbing alcohol ensuring to clean up inside the locking lug area and magazine well and trigger group well. I use epoxy that cures in 24hrs so after about 8-10hrs I pop the action out and trim up the semi hard epoxy with a razor blade then reassemble to let it fully cure.
Then I degrease the action and install the trigger and bolt release, magazine etc. I like to give it 3-4 days before torqing the action screws and firing it.