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Posted: 1/31/2021 7:00:00 PM EDT
We are wanting to try raised beds this year. I was originally thinking 2 or 3 8'x4' beds. I found a Justin Rhodes plan for a 8'x4'x2' bed made of cedar. Priced out the lumber and they would be about $450 each.
I starting thinking and realized that galvanized metal roofing comes in 8'x2' sheets, and if I built the frame out of cedar and replaced the cedar decking with galvanized, the price would go down to $250/each. Not sure how well the thin galvanized steel will hold up long term. For even cheaper, Northern tool sells a 8'x3' raised bed that is all corrugated steel for $73, but it's only 1' tall. What other options am I missing? |
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My local Menards sells old railroad ties for a decent price.
Just make sure you bring a helper, those things are HEAVY! |
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90's Chevy pickups are dirt cheap and most of them have raised beds. Usually plenty of drainage holes
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Whatever material you choose make sure there are no issues with anything leaching into your soil.
ETA: check out hugelkultur Attached File |
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Quoted: My local Menards sells old railroad ties for a decent price. Just make sure you bring a helper, those things are HEAVY! View Quote This is not really recommended due to the chemicals used to preserve them. If I were to try and build some beds, I would certainly look for any kind of scrap to use, be it metal or wood. |
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Check out the vids on youtube about building interlocking concrete sides.
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used pallet racking and sheet metal for the frame?
a 16' 30" ish wide upright is about $50. chop that up into 2' pieces. measure and cut it so the teardrop holes line up and you're beams sit flat. 8'-12' load beams are $5-$15 each depending on condition , you'll need at least 4 per frame , unl;ess you wanted to go shallow. Line the interior with galvanized metal and fill with dirt. Wont last forever and you might want to add concrete pavers under the corners to keep the steel from sinking in the ground |
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How about dry stacking concrete blocks and then filling the cavities with concrete?
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My plan for this spring might interest you...
Make your bed walls out of hay or straw square bales. When the season is done, mix the hay into the bed and get new bales next spring. |
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find soeone that puts up etal buildings. buy their cover sheets. build a siple frae out of wood or anything, line with cover sheets,fill with dirt of choice. plant, grow, enjoy
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Quoted: My plan for this spring might interest you... Make your bed walls out of hay or straw square bales. When the season is done, mix the hay into the bed and get new bales next spring. View Quote Piggy back onto that, buy the "less than desirable ones" for much cheaper. The ones no longer fit for feed (ones that get wet get moldy/ruined) but they still might be usable for building walls for a garden. |
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Quoted: My plan for this spring might interest you... Make your bed walls out of hay or straw square bales. When the season is done, mix the hay into the bed and get new bales next spring. View Quote Bear in mind, if you use hay you’ll be introducing weeds to your garden beds. Straw shouldn’t have that issue. |
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Quoted: How about dry stacking concrete blocks and then filling the cavities with concrete? View Quote Any wood you use is going to eventually rot unless it is treated, which is not recommended. I dry stacked blocks last spring without filling the cores and they are holding well. The biggest problem is grass and weeds growing in the cores. I plan to put up a greenhouse this year and relocate the beds inside it. I may fill the cores then. Attached File |
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Some of the best raised beds I've seen are my brother's. He has several tractors and industrial equipment with rubber tracks. When he replaces tracks he turns the old tracks on their side and uses them as raised beds. They're rubber so they can take on any shape you want, they deteriorate very slowly, they can be easily relocated, they don't require any assembly, etc.
If you have an industrial/agricultural tire supplier in your area go ask them if they have any old rubber tracks that need to be disposed. They usually have to pay to dispose of them so as long as they know you're not misusing them (burning etc) many will usually give them away. You may also check with servicing dealers such as Kubota, Gehl, John Deere, Caterpillar, Case, New Holland etc. Sometimes people go straight to the dealer for replacement tracks. It's likely they don't have any right now but they may be willing to keep your name for when they do, ask them if they would. You can get them in nearly any width (height once turned on their side) but narrower will be more common due to use on many CTLs & mini excavators now. Be forewarned, if you want big like found on big tractors (30" wide, 18 feet long), they're going to be heavy and you will need a tractor to move them. The smaller tracks are easily moved with 1 strong individual or 2 average individuals. |
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Find a local wood mill or anyone in your area that mills. go get their rounds and ugly cuts. They'll hold up for some time, my initial batch will be on their third season this year and still solid. Bonus is when they rot out its just more food for the bed and you can build a slightly larger frame around it.
Last two years I used my neighbors mill to cut up pine from our property into 2x8s and built 6 4x10 beds 16" high. this year I'll be using our brand new mill to cut my own! |
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I made 2 4x8 and 2 4x4 beds like these for about $300.
Beautiful DIY Raised Garden Beds in 3 MIN! - How to Build |
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I've used treated (newer stuff, not the old kind) lumber for raised beds with no problem.
Mine are 2x8's, I don't need tall beds. As an alternative, look at plastic deck boards. You may have to get them 2 high to get height like mine, cause I'm not sure if they go more than 6" wide. |
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You can line anything with black plastic or heavy poly, if you're worried about leaching, rot, corrosion, etc. Just leave the bottom open so it can drain.
I got an old toilet out back with a fake mother of pearl seat on it. I bet you could make a hell of a crop of tomatoes and peppers in that thing. |
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Quoted: My local Menards sells old railroad ties for a decent price. Just make sure you bring a helper, those things are HEAVY! View Quote Heavy with stuff you don't want in your food. Really you don''t want this stuff on your property. America's lack of science education will make us even dumber. |
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Quoted: Any wood you use is going to eventually rot unless it is treated, which is not recommended. I dry stacked blocks last spring without filling the cores and they are holding well. The biggest problem is grass and weeds growing in the cores. I plan to put up a greenhouse this year and relocate the beds inside it. I may fill the cores then. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/3813_jpg-1806045.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: How about dry stacking concrete blocks and then filling the cavities with concrete? Any wood you use is going to eventually rot unless it is treated, which is not recommended. I dry stacked blocks last spring without filling the cores and they are holding well. The biggest problem is grass and weeds growing in the cores. I plan to put up a greenhouse this year and relocate the beds inside it. I may fill the cores then. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/460899/3813_jpg-1806045.JPG Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. |
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Quoted: Heavy with stuff you don't want in your food. Really you don''t want this stuff on your property. America's lack of science education will make us even dumber. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: My local Menards sells old railroad ties for a decent price. Just make sure you bring a helper, those things are HEAVY! Heavy with stuff you don't want in your food. Really you don''t want this stuff on your property. America's lack of science education will make us even dumber. I bet you'd complain about me disposing of my motor oil in a cat-hole, too! (I am jokingly referencing an ancient Popular Mechanics article showing how to do this) |
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I didn't read through any of the other replies, but a buddy made a pair out of old worn out rubber skidsteer tracks that he got from a mutual friend. I thought it was pretty cool, but I realize that most of us don't have access to that.
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Quoted: Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. View Quote "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: make Thin CSA Concrete Garden Boxes PART 4 - cast garden forms |
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Quoted: My plan for this spring might interest you... Make your bed walls out of hay or straw square bales. When the season is done, mix the hay into the bed and get new bales next spring. View Quote You can use the bales as a raised bed. Takes a little bit of prep work, but they do work well. Search online for a video or web page on it. I wouldn't use any pallet wood or used railroad ties for anything food related. Too many nasty chemicals in that shite. |
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Quoted: I didn't read through any of the other replies, but a buddy made a pair out of old worn out rubber skidsteer tracks that he got from a mutual friend. I thought it was pretty cool, but I realize that most of us don't have access to that. View Quote Post #15 I bet more have access than you think of. Just have to ask the right people. |
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Quoted: "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo My boxes are starting to rot out and will need to be moved for my proposed home addition. These are a fantastic idea. |
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Quoted: I was under the impression the stinky stuff railroad ties are treated with is not a good thing to be used with raised beds intended for food stuff? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: My local Menards sells old railroad ties for a decent price. Just make sure you bring a helper, those things are HEAVY! I was under the impression the stinky stuff railroad ties are treated with is not a good thing to be used with raised beds intended for food stuff? Very much so. Even getting creosote on your skin with any frequency is not a good idea; the stuff is basically composed of petroleum carcinogens. That's why nothing can eat it when you put it in the dirt. |
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Quoted: "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo That's pretty slick; could even get fancy and add in drainage paths or even wiring provisions for lights. I'd like to see a masonry guy's thoughts on the construction, simply because I've seen thin-cast concrete fail after a year or two (neighborhood sound barriers) when the mesh rusted & expanded. If this is a decade-long solution, it seems perfect. A lot of work, but that's a feature, not a bug. |
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If you have a saw mill near by you might be able to get what my local mill called thick and thin. Along with cross ties that didn't meet standards to be finished out to be used as rail road ties.
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Quoted: That's pretty slick; could even get fancy and add in drainage paths or even wiring provisions for lights. I'd like to see a masonry guy's thoughts on the construction, simply because I've seen thin-cast concrete fail after a year or two (neighborhood sound barriers) when the mesh rusted & expanded. If this is a decade-long solution, it seems perfect. A lot of work, but that's a feature, not a bug. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo That's pretty slick; could even get fancy and add in drainage paths or even wiring provisions for lights. I'd like to see a masonry guy's thoughts on the construction, simply because I've seen thin-cast concrete fail after a year or two (neighborhood sound barriers) when the mesh rusted & expanded. If this is a decade-long solution, it seems perfect. A lot of work, but that's a feature, not a bug. I was actually thinking of making regular concrete ones. Not light weight ones. Make them 3-4in thick so they’re tough. Bend a piece of wire or rebar out the top as a carrying handle so I can move them with the tractor bucket or excavator and “place” them. Or even form in pockets for forks to go into from the tractor that are also drain holes on the bottom. Now I’m thinking how I’m going to do this. Because I was just going to build my new beds out of landscaping blocks. But this seems to be a much better idea. Also a great idea for small retaining walls. I’m not super concerned about weight because if heavy equipment. And if you don’t like the color, add dye to concrete. |
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I am using 50 gallon food grade material plastic barrels.Cut in half and placed in groups of four.several 3/8 inch holes drilled into the bottom for drainage(not too big of a hole so tunneling vermin like voles can't get in)They work nicely.Spreading wood chips between the barrel clusters keeps weeds from growing.
I get my barrels from work,I have about 40 now all in the process of being converted. |
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Quoted: I was actually thinking of making regular concrete ones. Not light weight ones. Make them 3-4in thick so they’re tough. Bend a piece of wire or rebar out the top as a carrying handle so I can move them with the tractor bucket or excavator and “place” them. Or even form in pockets for forks to go into from the tractor that are also drain holes on the bottom. Now I’m thinking how I’m going to do this. Because I was just going to build my new beds out of landscaping blocks. But this seems to be a much better idea. Also a great idea for small retaining walls. I’m not super concerned about weight because if heavy equipment. And if you don’t like the color, add dye to concrete. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo That's pretty slick; could even get fancy and add in drainage paths or even wiring provisions for lights. I'd like to see a masonry guy's thoughts on the construction, simply because I've seen thin-cast concrete fail after a year or two (neighborhood sound barriers) when the mesh rusted & expanded. If this is a decade-long solution, it seems perfect. A lot of work, but that's a feature, not a bug. I was actually thinking of making regular concrete ones. Not light weight ones. Make them 3-4in thick so they’re tough. Bend a piece of wire or rebar out the top as a carrying handle so I can move them with the tractor bucket or excavator and “place” them. Or even form in pockets for forks to go into from the tractor that are also drain holes on the bottom. Now I’m thinking how I’m going to do this. Because I was just going to build my new beds out of landscaping blocks. But this seems to be a much better idea. Also a great idea for small retaining walls. I’m not super concerned about weight because if heavy equipment. And if you don’t like the color, add dye to concrete. Just buy some Jersey barriers |
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Quoted: Just buy some Jersey barriers View Quote Jerseys might be cost prohibitive but that gives me a good idea! Hesco barriers can be bought in fairly small sizes, IIRC around 30". If you can find them reasonably priced just expand them out, fill with soil, and done! Just as easy as the rubber tracks method. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Concrete blocks are good; cinder blocks can apparently contain some heavy metals like mercury/arsenic (from the fly ash) I'm curious if there are any affordable polymer/masonry based options, since that seems like could be both affordable and long lasting. I am wanting to make a pair of two-tiered raised beds as a quasi hugelkultur thing. One problem with hugels is they do NOT like heavy rain until totally overgrown with plants. In Texas, heavy is basically how we get it. I am thinking a terrace may behave better. "Man about tools" has like a dozen videos on casting concrete panels for raised beds. He experiments with various forms, release coatings and cement/additive mixes in the various videos. Copying some of his ideas is on my "to do" list... one of these days. ex: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7jz96MDvyo That's pretty slick; could even get fancy and add in drainage paths or even wiring provisions for lights. I'd like to see a masonry guy's thoughts on the construction, simply because I've seen thin-cast concrete fail after a year or two (neighborhood sound barriers) when the mesh rusted & expanded. If this is a decade-long solution, it seems perfect. A lot of work, but that's a feature, not a bug. I was actually thinking of making regular concrete ones. Not light weight ones. Make them 3-4in thick so they’re tough. Bend a piece of wire or rebar out the top as a carrying handle so I can move them with the tractor bucket or excavator and “place” them. Or even form in pockets for forks to go into from the tractor that are also drain holes on the bottom. Now I’m thinking how I’m going to do this. Because I was just going to build my new beds out of landscaping blocks. But this seems to be a much better idea. Also a great idea for small retaining walls. I’m not super concerned about weight because if heavy equipment. And if you don’t like the color, add dye to concrete. Just buy some Jersey barriers Local concrete company sells 1yard concrete blocks. They’re 4ft long, 2 feet wide, 2 feet thick. $45 a piece. I’d use those other then the fact I have to get my largest equipment out to move them. Used them to make our manure pit. We were increasing the size in this picture. It’s now 2 blocks high. And 20x20 ish. |
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Quoted: I was actually thinking of making regular concrete ones. Not light weight ones. Make them 3-4in thick so they’re tough. Bend a piece of wire or rebar out the top as a carrying handle so I can move them with the tractor bucket or excavator and “place” them. Or even form in pockets for forks to go into from the tractor that are also drain holes on the bottom. Now I’m thinking how I’m going to do this. Because I was just going to build my new beds out of landscaping blocks. But this seems to be a much better idea. Also a great idea for small retaining walls. I’m not super concerned about weight because if heavy equipment. And if you don’t like the color, add dye to concrete. View Quote On a similar note, I can get 10' long (I think) concrete feed troughs at my local concrete batch plant for about $100. They're heavy mofo's though and not nearly as modular as what you are talking about. ETA: but I doubt they're as heavy as the concrete LEGO's that Foxtrot mentioned right above me. |
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Quoted: On a similar note, I can get 10' long (I think) concrete feed troughs at my local concrete batch plant for about $100. They're heavy mofo's though and not nearly as modular as what you are talking about. ETA: but I doubt they're as heavy as the concrete LEGO's that Foxtrot mentioned right above me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I was actually thinking of making regular concrete ones. Not light weight ones. Make them 3-4in thick so they’re tough. Bend a piece of wire or rebar out the top as a carrying handle so I can move them with the tractor bucket or excavator and “place” them. Or even form in pockets for forks to go into from the tractor that are also drain holes on the bottom. Now I’m thinking how I’m going to do this. Because I was just going to build my new beds out of landscaping blocks. But this seems to be a much better idea. Also a great idea for small retaining walls. I’m not super concerned about weight because if heavy equipment. And if you don’t like the color, add dye to concrete. On a similar note, I can get 10' long (I think) concrete feed troughs at my local concrete batch plant for about $100. They're heavy mofo's though and not nearly as modular as what you are talking about. ETA: but I doubt they're as heavy as the concrete LEGO's that Foxtrot mentioned right above me. Those blocks are about 4000-4500lbs depending on the concrete mix / rebar / etc. they’re poured from remains of large jobs. Super cheap. Super heavy. That chain is a stamped lifting chain for if I remember, 14,000lbs. That excavator can lift one all the way extended towards the tracks. With an additional counter weight we have, it can go to the side. But yeah. They’re heavy. |
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Quoted: Those blocks are about 4000-4500lbs depending on the concrete mix / rebar / etc. they’re poured from remains of large jobs. Super cheap. Super heavy. That chain is a stamped lifting chain for if I remember, 14,000lbs. That excavator can lift one all the way extended towards the tracks. With an additional counter weight we have, it can go to the side. But yeah. They’re heavy. View Quote There are certainly variations but mine (2x2x6) come in around 3700 lb which more closely aligns with published density of concrete. Dad hauled 7 semi loads of 12 of them for me last summer...he ran a few over the scales to make sure he was under the limit. |
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Quoted: There are certainly variations but mine (2x2x6) come in around 3700 lb which more closely aligns with published density of concrete. Dad hauled 7 semi loads of 12 of them for me last summer...he ran a few over the scales to make sure he was under the limit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Those blocks are about 4000-4500lbs depending on the concrete mix / rebar / etc. they’re poured from remains of large jobs. Super cheap. Super heavy. That chain is a stamped lifting chain for if I remember, 14,000lbs. That excavator can lift one all the way extended towards the tracks. With an additional counter weight we have, it can go to the side. But yeah. They’re heavy. There are certainly variations but mine (2x2x6) come in around 3700 lb which more closely aligns with published density of concrete. Dad hauled 7 semi loads of 12 of them for me last summer...he ran a few over the scales to make sure he was under the limit. I wouldn't call these ones... exactly... Square. They're all sorts of iffy sizes. Some of them are 4-6 inches taller than others. But hey! $45 - not complaining. |
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Quoted: My plan for this spring might interest you... Make your bed walls out of hay or straw square bales. When the season is done, mix the hay into the bed and get new bales next spring. View Quote I have done this and I recomend straw, hay did not break down as good as straw for whatever reason. |
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Quoted: I wouldn't call these ones... exactly... Square. They're all sorts of iffy sizes. Some of them are 4-6 inches taller than others. But hey! $45 - not complaining. View Quote I get mine for $25 and they sound a bit more uniform than yours, but still rough. It's my brother (3.5 hours from me) that really gets the best deal. He gets them for $10 each from a manufacturer of precast concrete beams. When they're done with a pour the professional finishers make blocks with the excess. They're perfectly uniform, perfectly smooth, and made with the best concrete you can get. Lucky SOB. Can't afford to haul them 7 hrs round trip though. Not trashing your blocks, you get what you can get. Just throwing details out so you and others have an idea what these sell for around the country. |
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Quoted: I get mine for $25 and they sound a bit more uniform than yours, but still rough. It's my brother (3.5 hours from me) that really gets the best deal. He gets them for $10 each from a manufacturer of precast concrete beams. When they're done with a pour the professional finishers make blocks with the excess. They're perfectly uniform, perfectly smooth, and made with the best concrete you can get. Lucky SOB. Can't afford to haul them 7 hrs round trip though. Not trashing your blocks, you get what you can get. Just throwing details out so you and others have an idea what these sell for around the country. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I wouldn't call these ones... exactly... Square. They're all sorts of iffy sizes. Some of them are 4-6 inches taller than others. But hey! $45 - not complaining. I get mine for $25 and they sound a bit more uniform than yours, but still rough. It's my brother (3.5 hours from me) that really gets the best deal. He gets them for $10 each from a manufacturer of precast concrete beams. When they're done with a pour the professional finishers make blocks with the excess. They're perfectly uniform, perfectly smooth, and made with the best concrete you can get. Lucky SOB. Can't afford to haul them 7 hrs round trip though. Not trashing your blocks, you get what you can get. Just throwing details out so you and others have an idea what these sell for around the country. Damn I’d say so. You get a deal. For the uniform ones they want $75. They also make more “decorated” ones that have a fake wall pattern on one side. Those are $135. Also I think your right. Mine are not 4ft long but 6ft ish. Again very not uniform. |
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Quoted: I am using 50 gallon food grade material plastic barrels.Cut in half and placed in groups of four.several 3/8 inch holes drilled into the bottom for drainage(not too big of a hole so tunneling vermin like voles can't get in)They work nicely.Spreading wood chips between the barrel clusters keeps weeds from growing. I get my barrels from work,I have about 40 now all in the process of being converted. View Quote We have plenty of used molasses tubs, which are the same thing. Plus they are easy to move with the forks on the skidsteer or tractor. |
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Quoted: Damn I’d say so. You get a deal. For the uniform ones they want $75. They also make more “decorated” ones that have a fake wall pattern on one side. Those are $135. Also I think your right. Mine are not 4ft long but 6ft ish. Again very not uniform. View Quote That's sad that they can't even manage to make them uniform... I worked out bulk pricing bc they have a few thousand sitting there. Normal price is $40 each... and they let you pick and choose your blocks within reason, they aren't going to move bad ones out of the way to get good ones. My price on half-blocks (3 feet long) is $15 each. I just need my dad to get back down here and haul another few loads. No way that can happen in this weather though. Sloppy here. |
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Quoted: That's sad that they can't even manage to make them uniform... I worked out bulk pricing bc they have a few thousand sitting there. Normal price is $40 each... and they let you pick and choose your blocks within reason, they aren't going to move bad ones out of the way to get good ones. My price on half-blocks (3 feet long) is $15 each. I just need my dad to get back down here and haul another few loads. No way that can happen in this weather though. Sloppy here. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Damn I’d say so. You get a deal. For the uniform ones they want $75. They also make more “decorated” ones that have a fake wall pattern on one side. Those are $135. Also I think your right. Mine are not 4ft long but 6ft ish. Again very not uniform. That's sad that they can't even manage to make them uniform... I worked out bulk pricing bc they have a few thousand sitting there. Normal price is $40 each... and they let you pick and choose your blocks within reason, they aren't going to move bad ones out of the way to get good ones. My price on half-blocks (3 feet long) is $15 each. I just need my dad to get back down here and haul another few loads. No way that can happen in this weather though. Sloppy here. Yeah. I’d just imagine they have a collection of forms they use, that were not made all the same. Works for my purposes. But if you can get uniform ones, 100% better. My purpose of pushing cows shit into, they work fine. Just vary the depth. Measure and fit the best. When I used them for the base of a tarp barn, I had to saw cut the ends a bit to square them up. 100%, you get a steal. Kudos my man. |
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Northern Tool, they have a few
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200746833_200746833 |
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We bought galvanized stock tanks, 6' long, 3 or 4' high, 2' across. Have used them three years so far and they work very well. Way cheaper too, I have $80 each into them. I empty them and move them by hand or with my tractor.
BUT, I like the hay bale idea best so far. |
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Find out who maintains your local rr tracks. Sometimes you can get the old ones they take out free if you pick them up at the work site.
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