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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:00:43 AM EDT
[#1]
SDS Max.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:01:37 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
SDS Max. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:05:31 AM EDT
[#3]
Hilti TE70 with some SDS Max bits. If you already have SDS/SDS+ bits though, you cannot use those. Have to get Max bits.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:11:40 AM EDT
[#4]
I used a Milwaukee sds+ and a HF chisel. Cut the end off leaving me a round shank, slipped on a piece of auto hose with a hose clamp. Drove two rods in slicker than snot.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:21:33 AM EDT
[#5]
In Canadian rocky soil we could not get them straight down so we angled them. Try and keep them as deep as possible but if it's rocky.
Chinook3 |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:30:36 AM EDT
[#6]
I'm looking to rent, not going to spend over $500 for something I might use once every couple of years. So my choices are limited. Was just wondering if smaller models can do the job.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:41:55 AM EDT
[#7]
Get the biggest one you can find and ride that puppy. Thats my experience
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:57:02 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get the biggest one you can find and ride that puppy. Thats my experience |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:59:26 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I need to put in a ground rod, and I've seen videos of people using hammer drills. Home Depot rents Makita models in various sizes, 11, 20, and 27 pounds. Does anyone have experience doing this? Will the smaller tool do the job? My soil is packed clay. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 1:09:34 AM EDT
[#10]
Try this first. It worked for me, and I did it here in Texas, where the ground is hard packed clay. The only problem I ran into, was when I actually hit rock, once I got the rod to about 7' deep.
The haters will say it's impossible, but it will only take about 10 minutes to see if it will work in your soil, so what do you have to lose?  Driving a Grounding Rod |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 1:11:09 AM EDT
[#11]
I used a small jacobs-chucked DeWalt hammer drill that I had picked up reconditioned for something like $60. It took a couple minutes of whacking instead of the 15-seconds the big boys will do, but the rod sunk right in. Any of the larger units that you rent should do a terrific job.
So many double entendres there. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 1:54:22 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hilti TE70 with some SDS Max bits. If you already have SDS/SDS+ bits though, you cannot use those. Have to get Max bits. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 2:11:35 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Try this first. It worked for me, and I did it here in Texas, where the ground is hard packed clay. The only problem I ran into, was when I actually hit rock, once I got the rod to about 7' deep.
The haters will say it's impossible, but it will only take about 10 minutes to see if it will work in your soil, so what do you have to lose?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0dyf-fibzgUse a shovel or garden trowel to dig a hole about 8" in diameter, and about 6" deep. Take the nozzle off the end of the hose and put the end in or at the edge of the hole, so a slow stream of water keeps the hole filled while you're working. I found that clamping a big set of vice grips to the rod gave me something solid to grab, instead of gripping just the rod (which really sucks). You can move the vice grips farther up the rod as you sink it deeper. Using a steady pumping motion, forces soil (mud) up and away from the rod end. The rod sank 8" or more with each... thrust. I attribute the speed of this operation to keeping a constant supply of water in the hole. The guy in the video is right - jamming the rod down hard is counterproductive. Let the water/hydraulic forces do the work. I had a full size ground rod sunk in less than five minutes. My next door neighbor, a master electrician, was completely blown away. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 5:01:41 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Try this first. It worked for me, and I did it here in Texas, where the ground is hard packed clay. The only problem I ran into, was when I actually hit rock, once I got the rod to about 7' deep.
The haters will say it's impossible, but it will only take about 10 minutes to see if it will work in your soil, so what do you have to lose? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0dyf-fibzg
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Posted: 2/11/2020 6:21:11 AM EDT
[#15]
I drove one Saturday with a bottle of water and my bare hands. Shove the rod in and pull it out. Pour some water in the hole, then act like your churning butter, repeat water as nessary. 5 minutes and you’re done.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 6:26:57 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I drove one Saturday with a bottle of water and my bare hands. Shove the rod in and pull it out. Pour some water in the hole, then act like your churning butter, repeat water as nessary. 5 minutes and you’re done. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 7:30:26 AM EDT
[#17]
I've always used a post driver and finished it with a sledge hammer. I just remembered that I used an electric jackhammer once.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 12:07:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Try this first. It worked for me, and I did it here in Texas, where the ground is hard packed clay. The only problem I ran into, was when I actually hit rock, once I got the rod to about 7' deep.
The haters will say it's impossible, but it will only take about 10 minutes to see if it will work in your soil, so what do you have to lose? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0dyf-fibzghe’s a cable repairman at ma bell it’s surprisingly easy . |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 6:17:09 PM EDT
[#19]
That is cool. I will have to try that.
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Posted: 2/11/2020 7:37:31 PM EDT
[#20]
For my East Texas soil i built a water drill out of thin wall 1/2 inch PVC, a u shaped section, and fittings to connect it to the water hose.
It worked... ok. I was able to get 6' rods most of the way in. If I had known of the water trick I would have tried it first. |
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Posted: 2/11/2020 8:22:15 PM EDT
[#21]
good luck trying that in north east pa. our soil grows rocks
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Posted: 2/11/2020 10:26:27 PM EDT
[#22]
I use a T-post driver, but I had it anyway for fencing. You have to finish of the last foot or so with a hammer or sledge.
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Posted: 2/12/2020 11:08:18 AM EDT
[#23]
The water method is the easiest if your soil will support it. I had a site that the first four feet was dirt then everything below that was solid limestone. Had to rent a 10' hammer drill bit because the rods were just bouncing off of the limestone. If you are serious about grounding look at chemical ground rods. MUCH more effective than standard rods. Years ago I had a site that would get a strike every three or four months and not matter how elaborate the ground system was it would not dissipate the strike. We were up to strapping between rods and a dual ground loop around the building. With every strike we would have equipment damaged. One of our equipment companies was tired of replacing rectifiers under warranty and introduced us to chemical rods. Zero damage after installing them.
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Posted: 2/12/2020 12:41:57 PM EDT
[#24]
My FIL taught me the water method years ago. He told me that he could drive a ground rod with a Coke bottle full of water and he did. It works to get the rod in the ground and pass an inspection. I believe NEC requires a rod driven into undisturbed ground so I question how good your ground will be with one driven into a mud slurry. I now drive all of my ground rods with a hammer drill and a ground rod driver bit. I think the bit was about $30 online. There are very few rocks to contend with here.
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Posted: 2/12/2020 12:57:16 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My FIL taught me the water method years ago. He told me that he could drive a ground rod with a Coke bottle full of water and he did. It works to get the rod in the ground and pass an inspection. I believe NEC requires a rod driven into undisturbed ground so I question how good your ground will be with one driven into a mud slurry. I now drive all of my ground rods with a hammer drill and a ground rod driver bit. I think the bit was about $30 online. There are very few rocks to contend with here. |
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Posted: 2/14/2020 1:48:18 AM EDT
[#26]
I used a hammer to drive mine. It took a while...I don’t have lots of big rocks here in the city.
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Posted: 2/15/2020 1:50:13 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm looking to rent, not going to spend over $500 for something I might use once every couple of years. This one is $170 - and it's a beast. |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 2:11:01 AM EDT
[#28]
The water method is the way to go. The concerns are mostly theoretical, after time with settling and water/drying cycles it will end up being the same.
You probably won't believe me, but if you're putting rods in for lightning protection, cut the 8 foot rods in half and put in twice as many 4' rods. In most soils, very little current goes further than 4~6' down the rods due to impedance. |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 4:41:22 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The water method is the way to go. The concerns are mostly theoretical, after time with settling and water/drying cycles it will end up being the same. You probably won't believe me, but if you're putting rods in for lightning protection, cut the 8 foot rods in half and put in twice as many 4' rods. In most soils, very little current goes further than 4~6' down the rods due to impedance. |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 7:17:44 AM EDT
[#30]
Thats interesting, didnt think the soil type would have that much effect.
We must have very resistive soil on my job in Central Fl, all the ground rods are 30' long. There were a couple of unhappy guys on the LP crew when they saw that noted on the plans. |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 11:31:48 AM EDT
[#31]
Bosch 11311EVS Demo Hammer with Bosch SDS-MAX Ground Rod Driver
BD's KF7P Cable Entrance Panel I used this rental combo 10 years ago to drive (4) 8' ground rods into hard Indiana clay. 
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Posted: 2/15/2020 5:50:31 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Try this first. It worked for me, and I did it here in Texas, where the ground is hard packed clay. The only problem I ran into, was when I actually hit rock, once I got the rod to about 7' deep.
The haters will say it's impossible, but it will only take about 10 minutes to see if it will work in your soil, so what do you have to lose? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0dyf-fibzg |
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Posted: 2/15/2020 7:04:30 PM EDT
[#33]
I'm late to the party, but I like everything suggested.
Obviously try a water method first as it is the least expensive. Where I live the ground is everything. A friend a couple miles away just stuck the ground in the ground and worked back and forth. Where I am ... not a prayer. I found by shear luck on ebay (my poiint of view versus my wife's) the largest Bosch hammer drill for a song (<$300 shipped). I shudder to suggest, but look on ebay as well as buya.com. I found mine on ebay. Thinking it would be doa, I also ordered a motor rebuild kit (~$30) and didn't need. This thing is a little heavy. So knocking in an 8' rod requires a step ladder. With it at the top of a rod all that is needed is to hold it steady and the rod melts into the ground. No additional downward pressure needed. Just an idea that worked for me. |
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Posted: 2/21/2020 1:28:31 AM EDT
[#34]
I tried the water method and no it does not work where I live near Portland, OR. After 4 ft there is a solid concrete like clay layer. I Drove two 8 ft rods in with a sledge hammer recently and hurt my back in the process. Next time I will rent a demo hammer from Home Depot. I had a small compressed air air hammer that did not work at all.
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Posted: 2/21/2020 9:04:18 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
I need to put in a ground rod, and I've seen videos of people using hammer drills. Home Depot rents Makita models in various sizes, 11, 20, and 27 pounds. Does anyone have experience doing this? Will the smaller tool do the job? My soil is packed clay. 
My first rod went in 5 feet and just stopped. I have no idea what construction debris is down there but I hit it. I drove a second one in about five feet away and it went in the full 7.5 feet. A couple of years later I had my AC upgraded and the guy dug up the drip line from the condenser coil that had been buried just under the vegetation. In the summer it gets a pretty solid dripping when the AC is running ... I thought perfect and drove a third ground rod into that area. Make big gentle sweeping bends with your ground wire to encourage the bazillion volts from a lightening strike downwards. |
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Posted: 2/24/2020 12:05:13 AM EDT
[#36]
Another vote for the water method. I put in four ground rods around the base of a club mast like this, easy and fast.
I doubt we used 4 gallons to do all four. |
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Posted: 2/26/2020 11:32:10 AM EDT
[#37]
I have an SDS bulldog that has served me well for years pounding all kinds of stuff. However it will NOT do ground rods unless its super soft. For ground rods an SDS MAX with at least a 3/4" tool. I have an old Milwaukee 3/4" hammer drill that will we have had the rod hit stone and turn sideways. but still beat the rod in. Go big, it will save you a lot of work. As far as the bit, I made my first one in the shop from an old spike that I never used. we finally snapped it at the weld. The weld actually fractured the metal and came apart. So I bought the actual bit. Worth every penny. Think it was 60 bucks. But I was putting enough ground rods in to justify the cost.
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Posted: 3/2/2020 8:41:47 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
SDS Max. I also bought a "bit" for driving rods. I think it was $75 or maybe $50. Some say just use and wide open chuck to drive rods which for a few might be ok, but that does wear the chuck a fairly expensive replacement. But, it all comes down to how you take of your tools and how many rods you want to pound in. For what it is worth, electricians in SW Connecticut can make $160/hr .. so I am told. Anyway that set the budget for me and a SDS Max hammer drill for $250 seemed like a steal. The fundamental requirement for the hammer drill is SDS Max to handle large pits and the weight that goes with is all that is required to drop ground rods into tough earth. You do not need to push down as it is not a jack hammer. HOWEVER, make sure that you need it for your soil conditions. Where I am in SW CT the soil is quite firm down to a large subsurface rock .. all over. Most of my rods had to be knocked in at an angle or cut off if knocked in straight. I wanted to get as much of the rod in as possible so a fairly steep angle was what I had to do. The big deal in my area is that many of my nearby buds are closer to the LI Sound. They thought I was stupid as they only had to work the rod down by hand with a little water and pushing down. One guy was 78 y/o at the time. So fine ... .. . is all that I could say. I needed a manly man tool to get anywhere. |
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Posted: 4/9/2020 1:41:09 AM EDT
[#39]
Update - I decided to give the butter churning method a try and was surprised that even in my rocky packed clay soil it really works! I had some trouble initially pulling the rod out each time, it gets wedged in pretty tight So I clamped some vise grips onto it and discovered just by twisting it was relatively easy to pull out. Had to add a bit of water every few minutes. I got it in 6 feet this way and then started using a 5lb sledge, didn't take long to finish. Overall I'd say it took about 15-20 minutes. The next one will be faster and easier.
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Posted: 4/9/2020 8:52:49 AM EDT
[#40]
I can drive a ground rod in five minutes or so with this slide hammer I whipped up out of scrap. Once the handle is hitting the ground you flip it over and send it home.
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