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Posted: 7/5/2020 8:46:02 PM EDT
I have a Dometic G6A-8E gas only water heater in my camper.

On first trip of season last weekend, it fired up fine the first time, and hasn't worked since. The fuse on the control board is fine. There is no other fuse that seems to control the 12V source on this that I can see. I can't light it manually.

Does anyone know how to troubleshoot as to what might be bad, the control board or ingnitor? I hear no clicking, and I can't hear any gas coming out either.

The ignitor is $14 on amazon, the control board $117.

There does seem to be a couple of LED's on the board, but I'm not sure.
Link Posted: 7/5/2020 9:11:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 7/5/2020 10:03:10 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks! That's more helpful than the owners manual.
Link Posted: 7/7/2020 9:23:32 AM EDT
[#3]
Look at the thermocouple if it has one.
I'm familiar with older ones and they were a standard safety feature.
They're fairly cheap and reasonably easy to replace.
Link Posted: 8/23/2020 10:28:34 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I have a Dometic G6A-8E gas only water heater in my camper.

On first trip of season last weekend, it fired up fine the first time, and hasn't worked since. The fuse on the control board is fine. There is no other fuse that seems to control the 12V source on this that I can see. I can't light it manually.

Does anyone know how to troubleshoot as to what might be bad, the control board or ingnitor? I hear no clicking, and I can't hear any gas coming out either.

The ignitor is $14 on amazon, the control board $117.

There does seem to be a couple of LED's on the board, but I'm not sure.
View Quote
Attachment Attached File


You're not sure there are LEDs as in they aren't lit?  Then 10.5+v is not reaching the board.  

10.5v+ starts at the remote switch, which can be bad.  If the non-ignition light comes on, the switch is probably ok. These are tested with continuity.

Then through the thermal cutoff, which if tripped will not come on again.  This is due mud dauber type obstructions in the burner tube. Again, continuity on either side.

Then through the automatic thermostat.  This can be bad too, preventing 10.5v+ to the board. If the water is cool, it should have continuity.

Then the board.  There is no way to tell if a board is good directly.  A tech uses a board tester that says the board is either bad, or might be good. Everything else after the board is tested to rule the board in or out.

It's usually not the board.
Link Posted: 8/23/2020 2:02:36 PM EDT
[#5]
I hope to hell it's not the switch. It's in a panel with several other switches, and it's a freaking rats nest in there.
Link Posted: 8/23/2020 2:31:45 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I hope to hell it's not the switch. It's in a panel with several other switches, and it's a freaking rats nest in there.
View Quote

It might be easier to test the switch by putting one lead to the brown wire before the thermal cutoff and the other to ground with switch in on position.
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