Did old computer hard drive die?  I bought a toy I can usb into a computer that you plug a hard drive into, so can sometimes get stuff off old hard drives that way.

If old hard drive died, I would not pay for service to recover info since it tends to be expensive.

The toy I speak of was not expensive, search net and see who has it cheapest.

I kept having old computers given to me since people did not trust putting em in the trash.  I pulled hard drives and if someone wants some parts gave em the parts and tossed the remains.

So having some old hard drives to mess with was amusing.  Then dismantle for magnets.

There is a thing you can buy that uses a usb cord.  You need to remove old hard drive from desktop, I am assuming desktop size hard drive here, and you honestly just plug it into new toy and new puter reads it.

Something like this

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwi-_MCbpZjkAhUB_uMHHfITDdIYABAGGgJ5bQ&sig=AOD64_3teVKPqmFsxpGDQAHP-QIuEAuITg&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjo2LibpZjkAhWBY98KHcXrCPQQ9aACCEM&adurl=

Project farm in YouTube did comparisons for tire sealing goop. Some of them worked extremely well. Tire guys hate the stuff, but for a slow leak during busy season, it may be worth looking at.

And yes, lithium battery jumpers are the cat's meow

Before gooping things I like to plug holes in tires.  I have gooped stuff but I prefer plugs.  Lawn mower tires should be easy as heck to plug.

On vehicles these days the tire shops want to patch things, discount tires told me they don't have a single plug in their building.  I thought about telling em they would when they pulled my truck in but left it alone.

I will use a plug and may or may not get the car or truck tire patched afterwards.  In some cases, may put spare on and let em patch it cause plugs won't work cause I did not have big super duper plugs at time.

Anyway, plug goes in hole in tire.  Use spray bottle of soapy water to let you see bubbles when you air tire up.  At worst the plug will help fill hole and goop will have less work to do.

I am late to this party. What I have done on my trailor is mounted a boat winch to the front rail of the trailor. Winches up my
1000# zturn with ease. Hand crank of course. Mine is set back some so I can crank the mower against the rail. I did add a treated 2x4
on the rail. Helps keep the front in of the mover secured. Just leave it hooked up when traveling. I still strap the back of the mower down.

It should be noted: there should be an actual ground wire in your trailer/truck connection. I've seen trailers that rely on the ground connection between the hitch and ball, no ground wire.

Also, a lot of trailer wiring issues are from corrosion on the trailer wiring connectors, can be on either the trailer or truck side. Keep a can of electrical contact cleaner and some small brushes, and you can solve most trailer light issues.

The links just bring me to the main hd web site.

What is the biggest engine you want to be able to jump?

You want lithium, not lead acid.

Do not get a combo device with air compressor, those are gimmicks.

I bought this:

But its no longer available.

Notice the rating you really need to pay attention to: the 1200amp maximum output.

Now, that amperage is only a very, very short surge, and then it drops to a few hundred amps. ALL lithium jump packs share that property, but it works. I have started my old Ford 2 valve 5.4 V8 AND my 2 valve 6.8 V10 on just the jump pack: battery disconnected. Interestingly, it spun the V10 faster, probably due to a gear reduction starter (not sure if it has one, but that makes sense as the 5.4 is not super great on compression).

So it is safe to say that capacity would start anything you need to start.

NOTE: Lithium jump packs like an engine that starts within a couple seconds. They don't like to crank and crank an old carburated engine that needs to crank a lot. If I tried to use it on my 316 in the winter, it would not work, because my 316 likes to crank and crank. Just be aware of that.

A lot of the lithium jump packs tout having a big capacity.
Example:

Notice its advertised capacity is 18000mah. The one I have is 16000 and change. BUT, the one I have was rated to 1200 amps max, this other one with higher capacity "amount of energy stored" is only 600 amps. Half. Will it start the same engine? Maybe, maybe not.

Fun part on all these jumpers: there is no standard for which to test them. So I tend to look at ratings, warranty (though they can be laughable terms) and the not only having good reviews, but lots of them, and then sold or fulfilled by Amazon in case there is a problem with the product (say what you will about Amazon, their CS is great).

So, if I were shopping for a new jump pack, I would take a good look at this one:

It has a good number of good ratings, looks like a 2 year warranty, has the specs. I can't endorse it as I don't have one, but that is the one I would probably gamble on. Make sure you test it out when you get it by jumping your vehicle (I would put in a dead battery, taking the battery off like I did can be bad for your vehicle) and then making sure a full charge stays full for a full week (and then keep an eye on it, I top mine off every month or so).

None of these lithiums like temps below -4, but you should not have to worry about that.

And don't use the jump pack to charge your electronics unless its an emergency. If you want a portable power pack, get a portable power pack. A dedicated electronics charger power pack is far cheaper, and you save your jump pack for what you bought it for: saving your a$$ when your battery died from leaving the lights on.

ETA: What you want for charging your phone away from a regular charger:

Not necessarily that one, but you get get it for under $20 with the Amazon coupon.

Question on charging them, are they as dangerous as rc ones? As in the catching on fire thing, so everyone charges them in fire bags and ammo cans?

Are these the same portable jump packs we have kept plugged in in our garages and shops the last 15 years or so?

No more dangerous than charging a smart phone.

The RC car batteries are usually a slightly different technology that is more, shall we say, fussy.

ETA: All batteries need to be regulated on the charge. Lithium batteries (rather devices that have them built in) usually have charge controllers that not only control the charge profile, but they monitor the temp of the battery. A bare cell has no such protections.

Thanks!

They want 100 bucks for this now.  It was 40% or so off on prime day with a coupon or other discount.  Happy with it but it is indeed a use it and lose it sorta thing I guess.  I want it for charging phone as well so I deal with it and it will start stuff.

But the old ones or even just a 12volt battery from wally world is what I would get if you have something to jump that is hard starting and you deal with it often.

@Kitties-with-Sigs
Here are a couple of pictures. Flat bar bent at 90 degrees bolted to the angle iron on trailor top rail. I added a piece of angle iron(bolted) to the triangle part of the trailor then bolted the base of the L to the angle iron. On bend of the flat bar I did weld a little brace in the bend. The treated 2 by 4 is bolted to the angle iron top rail.
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Edit to add there are two reasons why the winch is forward of the front rail. It takes up no space on the trailer and the main thing is you have to have the crank on the winch clear the front rail.

Something to also consider if considering an electric winch, even a wittle one, is if you plan to get it a battery then that battery could also be used to jump stuff.

Old style batteries are big and heavy but handle abuse better like tons of cranking and what not.

The new lithium jump packs are tiny and very light.  I think it is kinda nice being able to unplug the jumper cables from them as well.  I then have a little battery than can charge my phone.

I will say, it did not charge the phone more than a couple times before it wanted charged as well.  For something able to jump start a vehicle I figured it would charge the phone all week.

Works for my needs.  Find something on sale.  I would buy larger than you think you need, or at least exactly what you need.  I always oversize on stuff.

12v battery + 2500lb winch + quick disconnect/connect jumper cables + a couple extra quick connects + battery box , mount all on trailer, you can jump start with 30 ft cables, then unplug and plug winch in and with a couple extra connectors the uses are endless for 12v

Heck add a small 25 or 50 wt solar panel and 4 way charge controller  to keep battery charged when trailer disconnected, if you use a 7 pin connector on trailer harness you can even charge the extra battery with truck running







lots of ideas you can start with a battery and the cables you use now and add on as business grows

ETA there is a guy on ebay that sells all the wire stuff and can do custom lengths etc, I am going to order again from him soon, he will package it all together

What are plans through the winter with no grass to mow? Wood chucking? Snow removal or ?

Just curious

I could also do a book of what's not done
before long we could make money selling an encyclopedia set of what needs to be done

$$$$$$$

I can add to that list substantially .

We split profits 3 ways, right

If brackets are bolted through bed and into frame of truck then within reason, baby winch, you could fabricate something to bolt a winch onto and have it secured in bed of truck and lockable.  Still have all the other issues, but I suspect bed of truck is taller than trailer framework so other than maybe tailgate you should do ok running winch cable out of bed of truck.

As far as list of stuff not done, I am way over cluttered and been working on breaking down amazon boxes and assembling projects and I am still over cluttered.

Killin Bugs, paintin redneck trucks, fancy lawncare , car washin', driveway tar stuff? Which one

They are all legit after re-checking location

The weight rating is higher.
Sturdier tire.
Less sidewall sway.
Less likely to have a blown out.
Kind of an insurance policy of sorts.

I've got 3 half tons all with load range E tires. They are also called "ten ply". I think the new thing is a load index number and these are about 120. I got another set that says E and also says it's load index is 115, so I'm not sure what the exact equivalent is.

As far as your tread pattern, I don't know what you mean by "turf" tire, I know what they are in relation to tractors, but I don't think I've ever seen a DOT car or truck tire called that. Aggressive tread can cause weird handling on pavement.
Most of my trucks now have severe weather rated all terrains on them now. They've been good to me so far and they're supposed to grip well in rain, snow and ice. I've recently put mud tires on a couple of my 2wd trucks in the rear because I felt the need just to get through mud on my driveway.
What I do is look at some cheap tires on walmart.com and read the reviews and maybe post here in the "cars and bikes" section asking for reviews.

Very simplified explanation

Tires are complicated, worst thing is heat. You may not think would be an issue. Tires are molded with a bladder inside out (we make bladders for a tire OEM) when you mold a rubber tire, it in corporates the cords,bead etc into a package. If you over load the package it can disform and bulge, this puts stess on the cords that are formed in the rubber...there is no place to go for the parts/pcs of a tire.

If you look at tires, there are 2 basic types, radial ply and bias ply
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Radial tires are "softer" the plys can move easier, giving a better ride.
Pro better ride
Con they can flex and wiggle sideways
The more the belts can move=more heat

Bias ply tires in play ride rougher because as the tire tries to conform to a surface the tire itself is internally moving different directions...now for trailer and towing this is good....tires dont flex sideways and tires internally stay happy and cool.....BUT...they ride rough because they dont flex much or sway

Raitings on tires with numbers is different...10 ply radial is normal, 10 ply bias...beT no air would be needed lol....

That probably didnt answer anything BUT......it is reseach material.

If I pictured a true view of the back of my truck people would laugh at my tire selection....because it is done for heat and tire integrity...not looks...I have had an extra glass of of and am going to bed

Oh to add to his good explanation....wt on tires is 100% the truth.

With your 1/2 ton I would try to get 500 pounds or so between cab and axle....when you put wt on your hitch the forces of the dark side take over.

Your rearend becomes a cantilever, 500 pounds tounge wt turns into your front end becoming light...that takes wt off front but puts grip on rear tires.

Now! Lets put the load of you trailer behind the trailer axle to the point of!!!! Pulling up on your hitch, this makes less wt on rear tires and...no traction.

...oopp gotta go...pregnant dag giving babies orr some shiat wife yelling...long night

No pups yet, just crazy mom dagbarking at something

Tires are one of those things that somewhat still have old definitions messing with current reality.

You have an f150 I think.  So half ton truck.  Generally you would not mess with d or e range tires.  On my wrangler I made sure to skip passenger car type tires and get a tire like a 31x10.50x15 for the tires.  This is kind of an old school size concept, not metric, and doing this got me truck tires with a decent sidewall but I skipped the d and e range stuff cause it was a 2 door wrangler.

Jeep came with car tires in size 275x35r15 I think and I had these tires on cars made in the 70s and early 80s.  Was common for v8 rear wheel drive american stuff.

I did buy used, previous owner put those one it to probably sell his expensive spiffy tires.

The basic concept I tell folks is to look at actual weight the tire will see.  A heavily loaded half ton will do fine on d and maybe e rated tires.  You run around empty all the time you may be running your d or e rated tires at way low tire pressures to try and get decent tire wear.

E rated is considered 1 ton truck tire area.  Now depending on size and what not I don't have an issue with half ton trucks running em, but these are 80 psi tires.  Not all half ton rims are rated for that sort of psi.

My sister had one of those rounded body blazers back during the 90s or so.  She drove it like it was a corvette.  Tires never lasted.  She could not warranty em cause she was halfway honest.  I had rims checked, they could handle 40 or 45 psi.  I forget.  Anyway, we started looking at tires in the right size that could handle that pressure.  Factory tires ran at 35 psi.  There were tread wear issues still, but less issues.  As fancy suv things came along with low profile tires I told my sister to look at them.  She is much happier.

The d and e range tires will have stiffer sidewalls.  To some extent that means they can handle a load at x pressure better than lower rated tires at similar pressure.  An example would be a wrangler on e range tires at 5psi might see very little sidewall bulge.  More noticeable when driving but not so much sitting.

I am not against running tires beyond what the truck needs, and at the same time you need to keep in mind the truck you are driving.

Kitties, I don't know much about the logistics of spraying yards, but have you considered using your customers spigot (assuming they have one) to fill and mix on site?  If your tank isn't that big, then I wouldn't worry about it, but if we're talking 100's of pounds of H2O, I'd consider investing in 100' of good garden hose and using your customers H2O.  If you can, I think your half ton pickup will thank you.

Slight tangent: a coworker recently started his own power washing business.  By the sounds of it, he is doing very well.  So well that he bought a new van just for this endeavor.  Anyhow, he spent a lot of time on a power washing forum of some sort, studying other folks set ups, then plagiarizing them.  I imagine that you have probably already done similar, but I figured I'd mention it since I would think that there would be a lot of overlap between the two industries, especially with regards to equipment.