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Posted: 7/20/2019 8:23:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
$450 for the unit, and $200 worth of batteries to make it run, all for 1800W? I think I'd just carry a generator. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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For charging multiple batteries I use the DeWalt DCB1800 watt portable power station (yeah, its overkill but so awesome): https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/generators-and-portable-power/1800-watt-portable-power-station-and-simultaneous-battery-charger/dcb1800b It also charges the FlexVolt batteries. Not only can you charge up to 4 batteries simultaneously, but you can use use it as a "generator" (but doesn't need fuel!). It provides 15amps of juice (1800 watts) for quite a while (you need 4 fully charged batteries, and the larger capacity batteries are recommended for this). It will run pretty much any corded tool, or power your fridge, etc. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 12:17:06 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for the info on the compressor, I had a feeling it was noisy. 
Regarding charging your batteries, DeWalt makes a charger with a connector that plugs into your vehicle's 12v aux plug/cigarette lighter, but its only for the 20v Max (and 12v Max) batteries. I don't believe it charges the FlexVolt batteries though. https://www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/batteries-and-chargers/chargers/12v-max--20v-max-lithium-ion-vehicle-battery-charger/dcb119 But, you could just use your single charger that you probably already have a few of that plug into a wall. Get yourself a cheap little inverter such as the Cobra CPI 475 400 Watt Power Inverter (or anything similar) and you can plug that into a 12v aux plug/cigarette lighter in your vehicle. Which DeWalt charger are you using for your FlexVolt batteries? Just double check what its amp draw is so you don't blow the fuse in the inverter and/or the 12v aux plug of your vehicle. For charging multiple batteries I use the DeWalt DCB1800 watt portable power station (yeah, its overkill but so awesome): https://www.dewalt.com/products/gear-and-equipment/generators-and-portable-power/1800-watt-portable-power-station-and-simultaneous-battery-charger/dcb1800b It also charges the FlexVolt batteries. Not only can you charge up to 4 batteries simultaneously, but you can use use it as a "generator" (but doesn't need fuel!). It provides 15amps of juice (1800 watts) for quite a while (you need 4 fully charged batteries, and the larger capacity batteries are recommended for this). It will run pretty much any corded tool, or power your fridge, etc. 
If I have to schlep a bag of batteries into the house each evening and plug them in (and pray I don't forget them tomorrow), I'll just have to do that right now. I have the gamut of chargers. Slow chargers, fast chargers, and only one charger for my 12v drill/driver. I've gotta say....yeah, I'm wed to the Flexvolt thing at this point, but you could not pry my awesome little 12v drill and impact driver out of my cold, dead hands. I'd just about give up a gun before I gave up those two little tools. Okay ALMOST. Probably not. I would have to think about it. I could always run a drill bit through somebody's face in self defense. 
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Posted: 7/22/2019 12:29:24 AM EDT
[#3]
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I've been intrigued by these engine mounted generators. What they use on fire trucks and scissor lifts. http://www.fabcopower.com/images/bgen/safeuse-engine.jpg PM-110 120v 29A 3500peakW 2500W 3600 RPM27 lbs. http://www.fabcopower.com/generat/bgen.htm My truck has a spare bracket position, but getting the right pulley and serpentine belt might be a chore. In all reality, I don't need 110v that often...but these sure are cool. This need will not go away as we become more and more battery dependent. In all reality...I don't need 110 v that often EITHER. But dang. After getting the awesome little compressor (which I can lift EASILY in and out of the truck, in and out of ANYWHERE really, as opposed to my bigger compressor, which rolls, but which I cannot lift on my own)I'm getting kind of addicted to "My truck is a rolling, self-sufficient little work station, so don't f*ck with me" concept.
It's ridiculous. I'm a five-foot, (maybe) 120-lb female. On the one hand, I need lots of self-sufficiency because...I'm a five-foot, 120-lb female. Not gonna pretend I can win the tug-o-war. I can't muscle what most manual laborers can muscle, so I need to have a plan in place for mechanical muscle of every kind. On the other hand, help is a cell phone call away, and honestly, even if it weren't, folks help a girl in trouble, yaknow? I'm not exactly alone, half naked on the streets of New York (city). I'm just liking the idea of having everything I need on one truck and trailer I like that idea a lot. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 12:34:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been intrigued by these engine mounted generators. What they use on fire trucks and scissor lifts. http://www.fabcopower.com/images/bgen/safeuse-engine.jpg PM-110 120v 29A 3500peakW 2500W 3600 RPM27 lbs. http://www.fabcopower.com/generat/bgen.htm My truck has a spare bracket position, but getting the right pulley and serpentine belt might be a chore. In all reality, I don't need 110v that often...but these sure are cool. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 12:54:43 AM EDT
[#5]
Stuff in the quote in red.
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On the air output of new compressor vs old. Are we talking same pressure shown on the gauges of each compressor? I figure we are, but always start there. Not sure I'm gonna answer right, but I *think* it's more than that. Background......My bigger compressor is a 200 lb available, five-gallon tank, portable rolling compressor. I seldom crank it above 100 lbs, cuz my framing nailer is the most air-hungry tool I use as a rule. The little battery compressor maxes out at 135 lbs. I have not turned it up above 90, so far. MOSTLY because I think filling a tire isn't going to take anything beyond that. You should be able to change tools without losing all the air in the air hose. I don't understand this part. Every compressor I own tells me to NOT pop the hose on and off a tool without letting the pressure off the hose. That it can damage the tool if I do. LISTEN....I follow the rules unless I know better, so I don't pop the hose off the tool, cuz every one of the instructions say not to. Never worked in a garage, though I grew up watching my dad play checkers in one corner of a garage while the guys changed tires in the bays. Yeah, they popped the tools on and off. Yeah, I know everybody but me probably does. But I don't. Cuz the instructions say to NOT do that., and nobody has taught me how to break the rule, yaknow? My cousins who taught me to work on cars did not have impact drivers or compressors. 
Those couplers, like what is pictured on left of your compressor for hose to connect to, allow you to just pop things on and off. 
Should have one on end of hose for the tool in use. That said, smaller tank like a 2 gallon tank at 90psi will push less air out than 5 gallon tank at 90psi. Just a fact of life. This is probably the part I'm not understanding. My 5 gallon tank seems like a gorilla compared to the new 2 gallon tank at the same pressure. I don't understand that. If you want to play games you can rig up a tank for your compressor to fill as well as its tank. This is not efficient but if you need 5 gallons of air and only 5 gallons of air I could see doing it. Your air compressor will run longer to bring all this up to pressure, and you need to know the duty rating of your compressor. Running it for too long lets stuff get hot and while not a big whup on a cold winter day it may melt something in the summer or just wear out really early. Got it. I probably don't need that, but it's interesting and I'm filing it away in my head. The post above mentioned there are some chargers for vehicles, I don't happen to be up on current dewalt stuff. I am running 20volt stuff in my 18volt xrp stuff I have had forever using adapters but I don't have much time in on em. I have a car charger for the 18volt batteries but have not been buying them as much since the 20volt tends to be better price wise. The post talking about adding a generator under the hood of the vehicle is getting into more expensive stuff, but there is a lot of options out there for someone who needed to use their stuff more often. I can see where a fire truck might use something like that. I somewhat will compare it to someone who goes off road a lot adding a 2nd battery to their vehicle so the winch has more battery to drain when running and some people rig up the 2 batteries to do stick welding as well. If you decide you want an invertor figure out what size you need. Much like the generators people buy for power outages an inverter has ratings. And if your vehicle is not running, a huge invertor may not receive enough juice from your truck battery to do much. I was kind of worried about this. Of course, if the rules say my vehicle should be running, I would start my vehicle before running the tool cuz....rule follower, right? Yeah. I think I'm on the verge of getting over that whole rule-follower thing. 
People who modify their vehicles have walked this road already and made lots of mistakes. While I consider em silly, low riders often use air compressors for the air bags in their vehicle. Viair is common in that market. So while I don't care about lowering my vehicle, I can read up on viair stuff and how it holds up on their vehicles. Of course 4x4 off road vehicles use em as well. But when I get to reading I like to read from all over. Invertors are now coming in vehicles and have been for a couple years. Not sure when it started. So lot of folks are moding their old vehicle with invertors. This is across the board, no one area seems real big on it other than people modifying stuff. Some take the invertor apart so they can place the plugs where they make sense and then they hide the guts of the invertor elsewhere. Some use a short extension cord to do this as well. Life is way too short to worry about hiding any invertor. There are bigger fish to fry, but hey...I'm not them. Anyway, glad you are happy with your new toy. I AM! And thank you. I still have more to learn than I can even fathom. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 1:04:21 AM EDT
[#6]
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I've pulled a ztr onto my landscape trailer with just a climbing rope by myself a couple of times. Tie one end to the front of the mower, wrap the other end around the front rail 3 or 4 times and run the free end back toward the middle of the rope. Stand on the free end and using both hands lift the middle. The wheelmotors will bypass, slowly letting the mower roll, might take several seconds for the mower to move a foot, but it will move. Once your standing upright and no more forward progress is made, drop the rope and quickly pull the slack out by flipping and pulling the free end and and step on it again. It will roll backwards while resetting the knot, just be quick. Repeat. If you know more knots doubling the rope back and tying a friction hitch where you can reach it is easier than using the front rail as a hitching post. You really only have to fight it up the ramp. Once it's on the trailer loosen the bypass valves and push it. If the bypasses are open you won't have time to reset the rope before it rolls backwards. If you have a helper with a wheel chock following the mower along and keeping it from moving backwards that's awesome, I never have anyone around when my mower breaks down. I've used the method a number of times to load broken down cars onto u haul trailers with a helper working the brakes. I now keep a hi-lift jack on the truck. Have used it to sharpen blades (back the mower against a curb so it can't roll backwards while you lift it), unstuck the mower, and you can also hand winch with a chain. I'm having trouble picturing some of what you suggest. I think you believe I know more than I actually know.
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Posted: 7/22/2019 1:05:38 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: $450 for the unit, and $200 worth of batteries to make it run, all for 1800W? I think I'd just carry a generator. For that money, I could get an invertor on the truck. Which seems like a more efficient idea than carrying a generator proper. But I'm honestly just staring to learn about the options. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 1:06:13 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Who pays msrp? I got mine bare tool for under $250 shipped. Already have lots of batteries (which can be found locally on craigslist & facebook marketplace pretty cheap). |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 1:38:42 AM EDT
[#9]
One reason the 5 gallon setup weighs more is it is rated to way more pressure. So thicker walls in the tank. And if this is an older sort of setup, probably more metal in it than what the new compressor uses since new stuff will go with way more plastic where it can do so. To some extent consider the 5 gallon compressor is 2.5 of your little compressor just in tank size.
No issue with you being a rule follower. I read instructions after I fail to get something new assembled and working. My opinion is they want you to remove air pressure for safety reasons so that is fine. I suck at being a rule follower on a lot of stuff. When you get into high draw electrical items, I read about winches forever so gonna use that as the example, you get into a game of electrical energy available as well as how much energy the winch needs. Say the jeep is upside down. Kinda don't want to run the engine if it is upside down so the winch is gonna run on battery power only. Lot of folks install a larger battery in their jeep if they only have 1 battery. And a whole lot of folks buy a kit to install a 2nd battery in their jeep as well. So if jeep is upside down, should not take a lot to make it roll over and battery power is fine. But lets say jeep wants to climb a steep hill or something and can't do so with just 4x4. Run that cable all the way out and want to do one big long pull all at once will probably drain the battery if that is all you use for the steep hill. In this instance, letting the jeep run helps the alternator charge the battery while the battery is running the winch. This is simplified, there is tons more people do to add electrical capacity or help the winch work easier which means it needs less power but probably needs less power for a longer period of time. Anyway, want to charge your batteries with stuff in the vehicle look at what the battery charges need power wise and you just need a cute little baby invertor. Want to run a corded sawz all, probably gonna need a bigger invertor. With vehicle stuff I try to buy things either 12 volt or made for vehicle plug outlets or clamping on the battery. There will be some wasted electricity if you get an invertor because you are changing 12volts to 120 volts. Size an invertor much as you would size a generator. You want to run x then you need to be able to not just run x but also get it started. An electrical motor has a higher draw when starting up than it does once running, same as sizing generator for your fridge or freezer or whatever. In some cases it may be cheaper for you to buy the 2 cycle 900 watt generator from harbor freight and charge batteries off it but then you have the generator running. An invertor could do its job with the vehicle doors shut and locked. On the post about pulling the mower onto the trailer, if your trailer has the round tubes you could basically wrap the rope around the front tube and tie it to mower with one end and start pulling with other end. This would be sorta like getting a pulley and putting it on the front of the trailer, but I would recomend a pulley instead. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 1:51:03 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One reason the 5 gallon setup weighs more is it is rated to way more pressure. So thicker walls in the tank. And if this is an older sort of setup, probably more metal in it than what the new compressor uses since new stuff will go with way more plastic where it can do so. To some extent consider the 5 gallon compressor is 2.5 of your little compressor just in tank size. No issue with you being a rule follower. I read instructions after I fail to get something new assembled and working. My opinion is they want you to remove air pressure for safety reasons so that is fine. I suck at being a rule follower on a lot of stuff. When you get into high draw electrical items, I read about winches forever so gonna use that as the example, you get into a game of electrical energy available as well as how much energy the winch needs. Say the jeep is upside down. Kinda don't want to run the engine if it is upside down so the winch is gonna run on battery power only. Lot of folks install a larger battery in their jeep if they only have 1 battery. And a whole lot of folks buy a kit to install a 2nd battery in their jeep as well. So if jeep is upside down, should not take a lot to make it roll over and battery power is fine. But lets say jeep wants to climb a steep hill or something and can't do so with just 4x4. Run that cable all the way out and want to do one big long pull all at once will probably drain the battery if that is all you use for the steep hill. In this instance, letting the jeep run helps the alternator charge the battery while the battery is running the winch. This is simplified, there is tons more people do to add electrical capacity or help the winch work easier which means it needs less power but probably needs less power for a longer period of time. Anyway, want to charge your batteries with stuff in the vehicle look at what the battery charges need power wise and you just need a cute little baby invertor. Want to run a corded sawz all, probably gonna need a bigger invertor. With vehicle stuff I try to buy things either 12 volt or made for vehicle plug outlets or clamping on the battery. There will be some wasted electricity if you get an invertor because you are changing 12volts to 120 volts. Size an invertor much as you would size a generator. You want to run x then you need to be able to not just run x but also get it started. An electrical motor has a higher draw when starting up than it does once running, same as sizing generator for your fridge or freezer or whatever. In some cases it may be cheaper for you to buy the 2 cycle 900 watt generator from harbor freight and charge batteries off it but then you have the generator running. An invertor could do its job with the vehicle doors shut and locked. On the post about pulling the mower onto the trailer, if your trailer has the round tubes you could basically wrap the rope around the front tube and tie it to mower with one end and start pulling with other end. This would be sorta like getting a pulley and putting it on the front of the trailer, but I would recomend a pulley instead. I understood this, pretty much totally. In your last example, I also will go with the pulley. Or three pulleys and a much longer rope. just sayin.
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Posted: 7/22/2019 3:42:35 AM EDT
[#11]
I'd forget about the electric winch if your only need is "just in case". I have one on my dump trailer that I use the shit out of only because I was always buying dead equipment or other machinery that had to be dragged up onto the trailer. I would recommend a chain come a long with a 20' chain. I picked one up off amazon for around $100 if I remember correctly. I kind of prefer to use that sometimes just for the control and automatic braking. Last time I used it was cutting down 3 big evergreen trees. Had houses and powerlines close by and wanted to guarantee where they fell. Hooked to my trailer for one and to other tree trunks for the others. Had the neighbor slowly tighten as I cut.
I think this is the one I got. There are some cheaper ones with other brand names on them if you look. https://www.amazon.com/Ratcheting-Lever-Block-Chain-Hoist/dp/B01FOQK824/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=3%2F4+ton+20+ft+lever+chain+hoist&qid=1563781233&s=gateway&sr=8-6 |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 8:57:09 AM EDT
[#12]
I went fishing last night and this occurred to me this morning. How about a manual boat trailer winch for the trailer? Most seem to use straps these days, but if you can find one with a cable you could add a pulley too.
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Posted: 7/22/2019 5:16:45 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm set up like this.
150amp forklift battery connectors with 1/0 SO wire. (soft welding type cable) The first one is hard bolted to the battery terminals. A 15' section with jumper cable leads. They came from the welding house, takes two hands to open them. Another 20'ish section of cable that will get the inverter away from engine heat or get power to a winch mounted on the trailer. Have a 12,000lb winch that I need to build a trailer receiver mount for. That way I can stick it in the truck or on front of the trailer. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 5:35:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd forget about the electric winch if your only need is "just in case". I have one on my dump trailer that I use the shit out of only because I was always buying dead equipment or other machinery that had to be dragged up onto the trailer. I would recommend a chain come a long with a 20' chain. I picked one up off amazon for around $100 if I remember correctly. I kind of prefer to use that sometimes just for the control and automatic braking. Last time I used it was cutting down 3 big evergreen trees. Had houses and powerlines close by and wanted to guarantee where they fell. Hooked to my trailer for one and to other tree trunks for the others. Had the neighbor slowly tighten as I cut. I think this is the one I got. There are some cheaper ones with other brand names on them if you look. https://www.amazon.com/Ratcheting-Lever-Block-Chain-Hoist/dp/B01FOQK824/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=3%2F4+ton+20+ft+lever+chain+hoist&qid=1563781233&s=gateway&sr=8-6 |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 5:41:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went fishing last night and this occurred to me this morning. How about a manual boat trailer winch for the trailer? Most seem to use straps these days, but if you can find one with a cable you could add a pulley too. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 5:45:41 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm set up like this. https://live.staticflickr.com/8789/28218542920_c2ff169375_z.jpg 150amp forklift battery connectors with 1/0 SO wire. (soft welding type cable) The first one is hard bolted to the battery terminals. A 15' section with jumper cable leads. They came from the welding house, takes two hands to open them. Another 20'ish section of cable that will get the inverter away from engine heat or get power to a winch mounted on the trailer. Have a 12,000lb winch that I need to build a trailer receiver mount for. That way I can stick it in the truck or on front of the trailer. What size is that invertor and does it run whatever you need easily? |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 6:28:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So...does the invertor ride around under the hood of your truck? Or --what I think you're saying--you keep it somewhere else and hook it up when you need it? What size is that invertor and does it run whatever you need easily? Lives in the tool box in a padded cardboard box. It will run the blender. 
The wiring set-up is more than adequate for a bigger one, I just haven't needed it. ETA: FABCO wants you to call for a pricing quote. I can't even guess a budget number. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 6:30:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It will run the blender.
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Posted: 7/22/2019 6:37:26 PM EDT
[#19]
Been looking at the Badlands winches at Harbor Freight. (just had a 25 percent coupon, but wasn't ready to purchase.
)
How do you know how big a winch you need? And for a bigger winch, I need more juice, right? So if I decide to get a winch and put it in a box with a battery/etc, the more power I go, the bigger the whole package will be I'm guessing. Am I thinking correctly? Also, if I let the battery run down to full dead, will it charge back up? Or will my procrastination kill an expensive battery pretty quickly? I have experience with car batteries, but usually only fool with them when there is trouble, cuz...that's how I roll.
ETA: I have not decided for sure to buy a winch. I'm just exploring options and trying to learn all I can. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 10:01:00 PM EDT
[#20]
I did not see where you asked about capacity of boat winch stuff.
You should be able to look at various boat winches and find different ratios. A rolling mower is not hard to move on flat ground. Put it in neutral and lean against it and it rolls away. Always put it in park before using it to lean against. :D Anyway, if you are considering dragging it onto the trailer then look for a boat winch with more capacity. Flat tire or out of a ditch or whatever. I would make certain you mount the winch very very well. If it is pulling with x force then its mounting setup is seeing that much force. Harbor freight and national tool or whatever some of those other ones are have boat winches you can read about on their web sites. Someone above mentioned the chain winch thing as well. There are a lot of options. Some are more portable than others. If you buy an electric winch and mount it and a battery on the trailer you will want something to keep the battery happy. I would go more along the lines of monster jumper cables and run it off the trucks battery. |
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Posted: 7/22/2019 11:26:52 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I would make certain you mount the winch very very well. If it is pulling with x force then its mounting setup is seeing that much force As I'm looking at things, it might be that a tubing trailer, in some ways, is not as strong as an angle trailer. Then again, it might be. it is kind of two angles put together. I need to become an engineer, clearly.
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Posted: 7/23/2019 2:04:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Youtube is a good place to go watch some videos on winches.
Side x side toys have winches that are smaller than what a big 4x4 truck will have. You can probably run a search on "loading old mower" or something like that and see how other folks do stuff. Some are examples of what not to do. The tube has its good and bad points. I have never had a tube trailer and I am used to just doing what I want with my angle iron trailers. Never bent or damaged em personally but bought em slightly bent or damaged and all I did was straighten it out and then put a piece of metal over it to strengthen that weak spot. You can research come a longs, boat winches, electric winches, and different weight capacity stuff playing around on youtube and killing some time. I figure the tongue of your trailer is square tubing, I am too lazy to go see if you posted pics of whole trailer or not. Some people put a winch in the back of the main vehicle and use it to winch things onto trailer. I don't really like this because the trailer ball and hitch pin are now taking the load as the item is pulled onto the trailer. If the winch is mounted on the trailer, the trailer ball and hitch pin just see more normal forces. Within reason, no biggy. But potential oops is there so I like winch on item being pulled or on trailer pulling item onto it. Note I just haul little pieces of stuff on single axle trailer. Anyway, if you research "portable" winches you will find a bunch of mounting plates that go into a hitch receiver. Some folks then modify the trailer with bracing and a hitch receiver and can slide this winch mount into it and that way the winch is able to be locked up normally and is out of the weather always. If you mount a battery and stuff on the front of your trailer you will add a decent bit of tongue weight to it. Not that big a problem but something to consider. One thing about the round tubing, within reason, is rope or a strap will "slip" around this easier than the square tubing. Item at ramp of trailer has rope attached to it, run rope forwards and around tube and back down to item. You pull on loose end of rope and tube is kind of giving you a pulley setup with this. I don't like this that much though cause you bend your tube I am not sure what cost to repair would be. Angle iron, I mentioned above not a big whup in my opinion. I can also see inside and outside of my angle iron. Would suck in 5 years to find out you have a weak spot rusting from the inside and your "pulley" setup has a hiccup cause of that. Have you researched the crappy cheap ratchet come a longs? I don't like em cause they seem fiddly to me at times but they are better than using the ratchet straps I sometimes use. A winch is just turning force and distance around for you. Less force over greater distance lets it get the work done easier. Does not matter if you are supply force or electric motor is. Boat winch that cranks in circle amuses me but I have not really mounted one permanently. They make bigger crank winches you run by hand, but due to forces involved weight goes up a lot. Play on youtube. Consider what you have and what would work best for you. A small 2k lb electric winch does not cost much. A huge, and I mean monster sized, set of jumper cables made for jumping a diesel truck will cost a lot but could also be used to just clip on that winch and run it so you don't have to mount the battery to it. Still need to mount winch and jumper cables are heavy and annoying to pop hood or you could rig up something like the military plug in jumper cables to run the little winch. But I like monster jumper cables because they are also jumper cables. |
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Posted: 7/23/2019 9:46:02 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Youtube is a good place to go watch some videos on winches. Side x side toys have winches that are smaller than what a big 4x4 truck will have. You can probably run a search on "loading old mower" or something like that and see how other folks do stuff. Some are examples of what not to do. The tube has its good and bad points. I have never had a tube trailer and I am used to just doing what I want with my angle iron trailers. Never bent or damaged em personally but bought em slightly bent or damaged and all I did was straighten it out and then put a piece of metal over it to strengthen that weak spot. You can research come a longs, boat winches, electric winches, and different weight capacity stuff playing around on youtube and killing some time. I figure the tongue of your trailer is square tubing, I am too lazy to go see if you posted pics of whole trailer or not. Some people put a winch in the back of the main vehicle and use it to winch things onto trailer. I don't really like this because the trailer ball and hitch pin are now taking the load as the item is pulled onto the trailer. If the winch is mounted on the trailer, the trailer ball and hitch pin just see more normal forces. Within reason, no biggy. But potential oops is there so I like winch on item being pulled or on trailer pulling item onto it. Note I just haul little pieces of stuff on single axle trailer. Anyway, if you research "portable" winches you will find a bunch of mounting plates that go into a hitch receiver. Some folks then modify the trailer with bracing and a hitch receiver and can slide this winch mount into it and that way the winch is able to be locked up normally and is out of the weather always. If you mount a battery and stuff on the front of your trailer you will add a decent bit of tongue weight to it. Not that big a problem but something to consider. One thing about the round tubing, within reason, is rope or a strap will "slip" around this easier than the square tubing. Item at ramp of trailer has rope attached to it, run rope forwards and around tube and back down to item. You pull on loose end of rope and tube is kind of giving you a pulley setup with this. I don't like this that much though cause you bend your tube I am not sure what cost to repair would be. Angle iron, I mentioned above not a big whup in my opinion. I can also see inside and outside of my angle iron. Would suck in 5 years to find out you have a weak spot rusting from the inside and your "pulley" setup has a hiccup cause of that. Have you researched the crappy cheap ratchet come a longs? I don't like em cause they seem fiddly to me at times but they are better than using the ratchet straps I sometimes use. A winch is just turning force and distance around for you. Less force over greater distance lets it get the work done easier. Does not matter if you are supply force or electric motor is. Boat winch that cranks in circle amuses me but I have not really mounted one permanently. They make bigger crank winches you run by hand, but due to forces involved weight goes up a lot. Play on youtube. Consider what you have and what would work best for you. A small 2k lb electric winch does not cost much. A huge, and I mean monster sized, set of jumper cables made for jumping a diesel truck will cost a lot but could also be used to just clip on that winch and run it so you don't have to mount the battery to it. Still need to mount winch and jumper cables are heavy and annoying to pop hood or you could rig up something like the military plug in jumper cables to run the little winch. But I like monster jumper cables because they are also jumper cables.
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Posted: 7/25/2019 11:37:48 AM EDT
[#24]
I read a few posts in the first page, so this may have been covered:
In my experience, you will run across a few common issues with small engines: Electrical issues Fuel filters fouled plugs at the worst time clogged/gummed carbs broken pull ropes holes in tires. All of those things you can fix in the field (maybe not cleaning carbs, but that generally doesn't sneak up on you). What I would pack:
Get to know every sound your equipment makes. My wife used to (and still does on occasion) give me shit about hearing the slightest off-noise from the vehicles and saying "well, this needs to be changed". Yes, it still runs and you can't "tell" anything is wrong, but I heard that belt idler squeak, so I know it WILL go out and leave me stranded. I'd rather change it now, when I'm ready for it. Fix stuff at home the MOMENT you know something isn't right. When you are greasing/changing oil, otherwise servicing your machines, look them over for stuff that isn't right. This should also be done every day when you are done for the day, and keep a log of what you notice. When your dead tired, its easy to forget to change that idler bearing or that you chipped a mower blade, etc., and completely skip the repairs before heading out again. |
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Posted: 7/25/2019 12:01:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Regarding if you really want to go with an electric winch of some sort:
You have 2 options: bigger winch and single line pull OR Smaller winch and pulleys to multiply your torque and a few resets per pull. The smaller winch has some advantages worth considering though:
For actual winch sizing, I would say get a 2500 pound winch. It will take more force than you think to pull the mower up ANY kind of ramp. Also keep in mind the duty cycle of the winch: they need a lot of time to cool after not running very long. Obviously, whatever you do (winch or come-alongs), do a practice load from home. That way you know exactly what to expect, how to do it, any changes to your plan needed, and you won't look like a first-time amateur when you load up at a customer's place. Oh, one more thing: ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS have a lithium jump starter pack big enough for your truck. Those things are AWESOME, and have saved my bacon a few times. Don't use it for a phone charger or otherwise like a power bank, it is dedicated (in all but true emergencies) as a jump starter. I keep a separate lithium power pack for power pack needs. |
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Posted: 7/25/2019 11:56:17 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Regarding if you really want to go with an electric winch of some sort: You have 2 options: bigger winch and single line pull OR Smaller winch and pulleys to multiply your torque and a few resets per pull. The smaller winch has some advantages worth considering though:
For actual winch sizing, I would say get a 2500 pound winch. It will take more force than you think to pull the mower up ANY kind of ramp. Also keep in mind the duty cycle of the winch: they need a lot of time to cool after not running very long. Obviously, whatever you do (winch or come-alongs), do a practice load from home. That way you know exactly what to expect, how to do it, any changes to your plan needed, and you won't look like a first-time amateur when you load up at a customer's place. Oh, one more thing: ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS have a lithium jump starter pack big enough for your truck. Those things are AWESOME, and have saved my bacon a few times. Don't use it for a phone charger or otherwise like a power bank, it is dedicated (in all but true emergencies) as a jump starter. I keep a separate lithium power pack for power pack needs. Okay this is going to sound SO dumb...but...how do I know the lithium jump starter pack is big enough for my truck? Listen y'all...I understand how to wire a house. We wired ours a few years back. But vehicle batteries and wiring are different animals. I'm kind of afraid of it. It's why I don't understand my trailer wiring. It's just...different. So I'm happy to buy a starter pack that will...if I'm understanding you right...jump my truck batter. But how do I know I'm buying the right one--one big enough? 12 v is 12 v, right? i'm guessing not, given the complexity of purchasing a vehicle battery. (I know that changes based on where the terminals are located, etc.) But still... |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 12:50:43 AM EDT
[#27]
I have this one, starts my 6.8 liter v10.
BASAF Car Jump Starter 1200A Peak,12V Portable Battery Pack (up to 8.0L Gas, 6.0L Diesel Engine), Power Bank Type-C in/Out and Dual USB Quick Charge Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQNSZ8L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IxOoDbNFFDQ6B Italso started my 5.4 in a pickup similar to yours. It was actually easier to start the v10! The 5.4 must not have as much gear reduction on the starter? I tested it on both with the battery disconnected: it was all done with the jump pack. I wouldn't go much smaller. They are spendy, but oh so worth it IMHO. |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 12:53:03 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have this one, starts my 6.8 liter v10. BASAF Car Jump Starter 1200A Peak,12V Portable Battery Pack (up to 8.0L Gas, 6.0L Diesel Engine), Power Bank Type-C in/Out and Dual USB Quick Charge Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQNSZ8L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IxOoDbNFFDQ6B Italso started my 5.4 in a pickup similar to yours. It was actually easier to start the v10! The 5.4 must not have as much gear reduction on the starter? I tested it on both with the battery disconnected: it was all done with the jump pack. I wouldn't go much smaller. They are spendy, but oh so worth it IMHO. |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 1:35:09 AM EDT
[#29]
didnt read the whole thread may have been settled already but I have one of these aircompressors and I have beat the shit out of it in the desert inflating 32's on my jeep and its been solid. take care of it and use it correctly and it should last a very long time.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-compressors-tanks/12volt-150-psi-compact-air-compressor-63184.html you need to start it with the hose unhooked to it can spin up and then connect the hose thats attached to the tire. |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 12:59:45 PM EDT
[#30]
The battery in your vehicle will have cca, cold cranking amps, on its label. There is also cranking amps as well.
A jump starter pack for a v8 will pretty much start any v6 and 4 cylinder and most v8s. As mentioned in the post with the v10 starting easier than some v8s there are variations. There are jump starter packs for diesel pickups and there are packs for diesel big rigs. A site like amazon will let you enter your vehicle info into the site. Then when looking at something, windsheild wipers, it often tells you if this item fits your vehicle or not. Now some parts are entered wrong, so don't just trust the site as always being perfect. I don't know if the jump start packs would show under working for your vehicle or not. For prime day amazon had a nice noco pack on sale. Today's lithium jump starter packs are tiny compared to what we had 20 some years ago. |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 2:40:39 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The battery in your vehicle will have cca, cold cranking amps, on its label. There is also cranking amps as well. A jump starter pack for a v8 will pretty much start any v6 and 4 cylinder and most v8s. As mentioned in the post with the v10 starting easier than some v8s there are variations. There are jump starter packs for diesel pickups and there are packs for diesel big rigs. A site like amazon will let you enter your vehicle info into the site. Then when looking at something, windsheild wipers, it often tells you if this item fits your vehicle or not. Now some parts are entered wrong, so don't just trust the site as always being perfect. I don't know if the jump start packs would show under working for your vehicle or not. For prime day amazon had a nice noco pack on sale. Today's lithium jump starter packs are tiny compared to what we had 20 some years ago. The sellers do list "starts up to xx liter gasoline engine", but consider those as a warm engine in a warm climate. I'm honestly not sure if my jump pack will start my V10 on its own in the dead of a MN winter, but it did give it a jump on a battery that just "clicked" early this spring, started up just fine, and start it all on its own in 60-ish degree weather on a cold engine. |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 6:59:20 PM EDT
[#32]
She has a v6 in her vehicle I think. And she will get the point to pay attention to what it can do and not consider it a do everything.
I mostly consider these jump packs more of a "helper" for a battery that got drained overnight vs. jumping a totally dead battery that is junk from sitting for years and your jump pack is gonna do everything. Winter morning with old battery I should have changed is what I am most likely to need the jump pack for. And go drive to someplace to sell me new battery to swap out there. Or, help others. The help others I am not gonna worry about trying to cover every single base. |
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Posted: 7/26/2019 7:31:25 PM EDT
[#33]
If its a V6 and not the V8 in her truck, the pack I have is honestly overkill.
I like overkill though  .
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Posted: 7/26/2019 11:50:15 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If its a V6 and not the V8 in her truck, the pack I have is honestly overkill. I like overkill though .It sucks gas like a pig sucks slop. Just sayin.
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Posted: 7/27/2019 1:57:43 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a V8. It sucks gas like a pig sucks slop. Just sayin. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If its a V6 and not the V8 in her truck, the pack I have is honestly overkill. I like overkill though .It sucks gas like a pig sucks slop. Just sayin.
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Posted: 7/30/2019 1:14:29 AM EDT
[#36]
Mower in the shop.
I broke it.
Fortunately, my dealer texted me through fixing it enough to get it on the trailer WITHOUT having to winch it,. BUT...it could have gone so differently. It was sitting on my sidewalk. My trailer was thirty feet away (at a right angle). I was changing the oil. And yep, I broke the mower. If I'd had to get it on the trailer, I would have been SOL. A winch is looking Mo Bettah, after this event. Cuz it would have RUINED my weekend if I'd had to figure out how to push/tow this damn thing onto the trailer. Honestly I'd have texted my mechanic, "Come get me on Monday. I'm stuck." He is fixing what I broke and making it a warranty repair. (Have I said how glad I am that I did NOT go with the other Exmark dealer? Yeah, I'm so damn glad.) But I doubt he could have rescued my mower without charging me. And anyway....I wanna be more independent than that. I need a winch. And power to run it, darnit. 
Okay going back to re-read the posts about the winches. |
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Posted: 7/30/2019 10:40:35 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sure sounds like a Ford modular engine So I don't know what the "modular" part means, really. This is my first V8, so I was thinking maybe they all suck fuel like this. I'm not used to forking out that kind of $ for gas. It makes me get serious about pricing my work, though. Overhead just got real.
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Posted: 7/30/2019 11:06:59 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
She has a v6 in her vehicle I think. And she will get the point to pay attention to what it can do and not consider it a do everything. I mostly consider these jump packs more of a "helper" for a battery that got drained overnight vs. jumping a totally dead battery that is junk from sitting for years and your jump pack is gonna do everything. Winter morning with old battery I should have changed is what I am most likely to need the jump pack for. And go drive to someplace to sell me new battery to swap out there. Or, help others. The help others I am not gonna worry about trying to cover every single base. This exactly (though I have a V8). I'm going to assume that the new packs are as "much better than the old packs" as the new "battery tools are better than the junky crap from before." All due to Lithium Ion. Is that correct? I hit a moment about the "help others" earlier today. I was working on the gardens at a gated entry to a higher-end subdivision, and had to go back into the edge of town (a couple of miles) for a cheap pair of scissors (daylilly cleanup) and a bathroom break. Passed by the I65 interchange for the main highway that runs by the subdivision, and saw a vehicle sitting there at the top of the exit ramp. It was on the other side of a six lane highway (six lanes at that point--it's not a very big road beyond the overpass) so I "couldn't get there from here." The best place to turn around was the strip center I was going to, with a gas station bathroom and a dollar store (for scissors) so I went on. Rushed back, thinking I would stop, but two other folks had stopped, and one had a work truck with toolboxes all around. He was actually working under the hood. They were in good hands. But it made me wish to have my truck even more tricked out. I've gotta tell ya....there is a feeling of invincibility that comes from having a full complement of stuff on a truck. I'm not there yet--not even close-- but already I feel it. And I like it.
I would LOVE being able to stop and help somebody. I'm not gonna spend a ton of money just to do that, cuz that's not my end goal. BUT.... Can I do that with a set of jumper cables as easily as I can a jump starter pack? So MAYBE the jump pack is just for me when I'm stuck? Is that right? Obviously I cannot work on anybody's car. But your comment about helping others made me wonder if there are advantages I'm not seeing. ALREADY I could... A---Air up a flat tire with my awesome little compressor, assuming the tire would hold enough air to get them down the road to a source of help. B---Bust their stuck lug nuts loose with my awesome little impact wrench (I now own the Harbor freight versions (chrome moly) of both SAE and metric deep socket sets--which means I need to buy the ones the sets are missing. I wish they wouldn't leave holes in the sets like that.  ) So HOPEFULLY I would be able to bust loose most lug nuts for somebody little like me, who cannot loosen them.
Truth: I don't have a set of jumper cables dedicated to the truck. But it's on the list (Budget requires spreading out these purchases, since I want good cables.) I'm just not seeing how the pack would be better than the cables for this. Am I wrong? EDITED TO ADD: What, exactly, constitutes "GOOD" cables? I see tiny ones that I think are junk, and I see ones that cost a boatload of money. This falls into the same category, I think, as understanding the energy needs of an engine and the battery that will start it. I have a lot to learn, but when I say "I want good cables" I generally think I am going to spend $50-70 or more. But I have no idea WHY I'm spending that much, other than that weight of the cables, thickness of the insulation, and size/heft of the clamps. Should I spend more? I am the stupid consumer for stuff like this. 
EDITED TO ADD 2: I am stupid about vehicle electrical systems. They scare me, and it's starting to really piss me off. I CAN WIRE A FREAKING HOUSE. But I don't understand how vehicle electrical stuff works. Is it a loop, like house wiring? Can it kill me (Like house wiring)? I need to work on my truck's trailer hookup, but I'm probably going to pay a lot of money to have somebody else do that (okay part of that is that I don't have time or patience). I look at the fuse panels for vehicles, and yeah, I get the concept in an abstract kind of way. But I'm scared of it. But house wiring? I've installed the damn panel. I've hooked up the 200-amp cable (that sucked). I've thought through how to wire a ceiling fan and light combo with a dimmer for the light and a speed control for the fan and oh-by-the-way a separate switch for the light on the other side of the room, and it WORKED! I can do ALL of that. But I'm scared shitless of vehicle electrical. I don't understand what happens between 110/120 (or 220/240) and 12 volt. They seem like different worlds, and the 12v is alien. I am over being dumb. Being dumb is pissing me off. 
Where do I go for simple (for dummies) tutorials about vehicle electrical systems? I've looked on youtube, and I get idiotic stuff about very specific uses that does not help. Do you have sources? You want to make your own, or explain it in simple terms for me? I will send you presents. Alcohol if you want it.
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:17:02 AM EDT
[#39]
12 volt automotive "can't" kill you. But can burn you and arc, spark, and cause fires.
A jump pack is a self rescue tool. Jumper cables need something to jump off of. Good jumper cables are in fact pay to play. Jumper cables can act as temporary high amp wiring (almost like they were designed for that...) For things like a winch. Jump pack put out high amps for a few seconds, but they can't run something like a winch. Household current is constantly changing polarity; the electrons are taking one step forward, one step back. The neutral is something to have potential against, ground is safety. That is why 240v doesn't need a neutral: they have potential against each other. This is called "alternating current". Automotive wiring is "direct current". The electrons have to travel from the battery, though the wiring, through the load, then all the way back to the battery. That is a lot of movement. It's also basically impossible to electrocute yourself because your body is a bad conductor. The low voltage also plays a part in that though. So household power is like a ratcheting wrench: back and forth to do the work. Automotive is a standard wrench you turn round and round to do the work. Clear as mud? |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:21:24 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
12 volt automotive "can't" kill you. But can burn you and arc, spark, and cause fires. A jump pack is a self rescue tool. Jumper cables need something to jump off of. Good jumper cables are in fact pay to play. Jumper cables can act as temporary high amp wiring (almost like they were designed for that...) For things like a winch. Jump pack put out high amps for a few seconds, but they can't run something like a winch. Household current is constantly changing polarity; the electrons are taking one step forward, one step back. The neutral is something to have potential against, ground is safety. That is why 240v doesn't need a neutral: they have potential against each other. This is called "alternating current". Automotive wiring is "direct current". The electrons have to travel from the battery, though the wiring, through the load, then all the way back to the battery. That is a lot of movement. It's also basically impossible to electrocute yourself because your body is a bad conductor. The low voltage also plays a part in that though. So household power is like a ratcheting wrench: back and forth to do the work. Automotive is a standard wrench you turn round and round to do the work. Clear as mud? You should do a youtube about that. Break it down. Explain AC vs DC. Then explain household current vs Automotive current. AT LEAST three videos. At least. I would watch. I would subscribe again (were that possible). I would share. I bet I'm not the only one. People who explain basic things well win subscribers. This is what I have observed. EDITED.. You know... I don't think, in all my years, that anybody has said to me.... Automotive electrical is DC. I already knew house wiring was AC, obviously. And school taught me the fundamental difference. But everybody just says "12v" Or 120. Or 240. 
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:23:27 AM EDT
[#41]
@Rat_Patrol
SO...for this thread..
Explain pay to play. What should I expect at certain pay levels for cables? Don't include the $30 stuff. That's just toys, based on my judgement. |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:41:04 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Rat_Patrol SO...for this thread..
Explain pay to play. What should I expect at certain pay levels for cables? Don't include the $30 stuff. That's just toys, based on my judgement. I think I paid around $65 for a decent set on Amazon. |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:49:02 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If the cables are pure copper wire, not copper coated aluminum, they are good (about guarantee if they are using that good of cable, the clamps are gtg), just get the size wire you need. Compare the cranking amps of your battery to the ratings on the cables. I think I paid around $65 for a decent set on Amazon. I never thought to look at what the wire was. I assume that my battery is as big as I should buy, since I can't help somebody with anything bigger, right? |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:50:33 AM EDT
[#44]
240 volt in your house isn't actually 240 volts.
It only is because it cheats. A 240 volt circuit always consists of at least 2 wires, both hot. That is all that is needed, technically (but it should always have safety ground). Why? A 240v circuit is actually 2x 120 volt lines. The cheat is they are from opposite legs of your panel. When side A on your panel is positive, the other is negative. While they are only ever 120 volts from neutral, since they are opposite polarity, they are 240 volts from each other. A graphic makes this easy to understand. Automotive has no such wizardry. Seriously, don't fear automotive wiring. |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 12:52:44 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay that's a great help! I never thought to look at what the wire was. I assume that my battery is as big as I should buy, since I can't help somebody with anything bigger, right? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If the cables are pure copper wire, not copper coated aluminum, they are good (about guarantee if they are using that good of cable, the clamps are gtg), just get the size wire you need. Compare the cranking amps of your battery to the ratings on the cables. I think I paid around $65 for a decent set on Amazon. I never thought to look at what the wire was. I assume that my battery is as big as I should buy, since I can't help somebody with anything bigger, right? Personally, I would never jump anybody with cables. Liability. Jump packs are protected against mistakes. |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 1:00:07 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can always buy bigger, won't hurt anything but the wallet. I start semi trucks with the same pickup as you all the time. Personally, I would never jump anybody with cables. Liability. Jump packs are protected against mistakes.
You said earlier that jump packs were for self rescue. You seem to be saying the opposite here. *raises eyebrow* |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 1:28:33 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wat?
You said earlier that jump packs were for self rescue. You seem to be saying the opposite here. *raises eyebrow* Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You can always buy bigger, won't hurt anything but the wallet. I start semi trucks with the same pickup as you all the time. Personally, I would never jump anybody with cables. Liability. Jump packs are protected against mistakes.
You said earlier that jump packs were for self rescue. You seem to be saying the opposite here. *raises eyebrow* 
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Posted: 7/31/2019 1:31:47 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You are just borrowing a tool so they can rescue themselves 
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Posted: 7/31/2019 10:05:32 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No.....explain the whole liability thing and why you won't jump somebody with cables? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You are just borrowing a tool so they can rescue themselves If you do that to someone's car, or something worse happens such as a vehicle fire, you don't want to be liable for that. If they hook up the cables themselves then you should be immune from liability. And, most states do have good Samaritan laws to help you, but it would still suck to go through that hassle, all for just trying to help someone. |
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Posted: 7/31/2019 10:14:10 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some vehicles these days have funky quirks regarding being jumped. My wife's BMW (early 2010s) for instance. If done incorrectly it goes into some "valet" mode or something. I bet as time goes on and vehicles get more and more electronics and fancier computers, they only want you to jump a certain way. It used to just be hook it up to the battery and do it, but now there might be specific jump points to use. If you do that to someone's car, or something worse happens such as a vehicle fire, you don't want to be liable for that. If they hook up the cables themselves then you should be immune from liability. And, most states do have good Samaritan laws to help you, but it would still suck to go through that hassle, all for just trying to help someone. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You are just borrowing a tool so they can rescue themselves If you do that to someone's car, or something worse happens such as a vehicle fire, you don't want to be liable for that. If they hook up the cables themselves then you should be immune from liability. And, most states do have good Samaritan laws to help you, but it would still suck to go through that hassle, all for just trying to help someone. AND
It can all be avoided by handing them a jump pack and advising them how to clamp it on the batteries. All you did was loan them a tool. Added perk: you taught them how to do something and an good piece of equipment to have. Maybe they will learn from it. They probably won't, but you never know. And now that I have my jump pack, the only thing I use jump cables for is using my pickup to jump my semi truck, and that is only until I spring for $600 in new batteries for it. |
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