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Mounting a winch and all the drilling, welding & battery shenanigans just to pull up a non-running mower seems like a major pain for minor gain.
I found I could get by moving non-running ATV & UTEs, & such to pull up & onto trailers with a pair of $19.99 "come alongs" from Harbor Freight and some simple nylon tube straps (at least 4) knotted into loops so you can loop around to have your pull points without damage to either end. . Plus you can use them for other work duties too as needed. It will take some sweat equity but if you alternate the two comealongs, you can winch nearly anything up and into your trailer and you will save a TON of money to use for your real needs. I've used that come along combo set up to pull a non-running 1/2 ton pick up truck up & onto a trailer, so a mower would be easy peasy! |
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Mounting a winch and all the drilling, welding & battery shenanigans just to pull up a non-running mower seems like a major pain for minor gain. I found I could get by moving non-running ATV & UTEs, & such to pull up & onto trailers with a pair of $19.99 "come alongs" from Harbor Freight and some simple nylon tube straps (at least 4) knotted into loops so you can loop around to have your pull points without damage to either end. . Plus you can use them for other work duties too as needed. It will take some sweat equity but if you alternate the two comealongs, you can winch nearly anything up and into your trailer and you will save a TON of money to use for your real needs. I've used that come along combo set up to pull a non-running 1/2 ton pick up truck up & onto a trailer, so a mower would be easy peasy! View Quote And how long did it take to move the truck/atv onto the trailer? I understand the come-along principle, but not seeing how you did this easily. They take a lot of effort, in my experience. ETA: Just quick mental calculations...I may be WAY off. ~~$40 for come-alongs, plus some for the tube strap thingies (and there is the experience needed to make them work--expensive when you are on paying jobs, but you gain quickly once you learn, right?) vs.. ~~$80-100 for a Harbor Freight winch, plus maybe another $80-100 for the box/battery/stuff--so $200? Or would it be more? Am I way off base? |
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Quoted: Not meaning to sound dumb, but......you used your truck to pull the ATV (etc) onto the trailer using these? Or you did it manually with the come alongs? And how long did it take to move the truck/atv onto the trailer? I understand the come-along principle, but not seeing how you did this easily. They take a lot of effort, in my experience. ETA: Just quick mental calculations...I may be WAY off. ~~$40 for come-alongs, plus some for the tube strap thingies (and there is the experience needed to make them work--expensive when you are on paying jobs, but you gain quickly once you learn, right?) vs.. ~~$80-100 for a Harbor Freight winch, plus maybe another $80-100 for the box/battery/stuff--so $200? Or would it be more? Am I way off base? View Quote The Harbor Freight winch issue is mounting their winch. First you have to buy the winch. Then you have to buy a mouting plate. then you You will have find a spot on your trailer to affix a Mounting Plate to bolt the winch too. You have to find a way to affix the mounting plate to your trailer. That means welding it onto the frame, or if you can find a place to drill, (hard to do on most trailers due to small rails - frame) you could try to drill holes in the frame and then bolt it in place with Grade 8 bolts. Then you have the power issue. Do you want to spend the bucks for a separate deep cell battery just to power the winch? and you need to remember to keep it charged so do you have a battery charger for it? and don't forget you will need to mount the battery (don't want it to bounce around down the road or worse yet bounce off) so you need a box & strap kit, plus you will need to run power & control cables too. See what I mean about a lot of work if you don't use it much? I went through the hassle to mount a winch in a flatbed to use as a car - truck hauler for a side business (moving hurricane flood damaged cars) when every single one of them as a non-runner mess. Worth it then for constant use with every trip, but how often in reality does your mower break to the point you'd need to winch it up your trailer to take it home? Spend $100-$150 winch, $30 winch plate, $150 - $175 battery, $30 battery charger, $30 battery box & battery mount, $20 cables, Plus weld or drill on your trailer for the mounting of the winch & battery. Or use your pair of $19.99 come along hand winches (don't forget you can get 20% off with your magic harbor Freight coupon!) with $8.00 of nylon straps. Plus you can use the come along winches for other business things too. (lower a cut tree limb, move a tree trunk, ect...) |
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ARB compressor on the truck. Easy to install and doesn’t cost much compared to the benefit. Carry a couple spare tubes, couple bottles of slime. Get a 4K HF winch and get a cradle to use on a receiver hitch. Have someone weld a receiver tube on front of your trailer so it can be used on back of truck and trailer. Long jumper cables from truck battery will work for winch power. Get a locking deck toolbox for the back of the truck or trailer. A couple few hand toolbox’s and walk every isle at HF. Get a Dewalt cordless impact and spent a few hundred on hand tools and your set. Also pick up a tire plug/ patch set and your in business. I could set you up for probably 2k-2.5k to start by using CL and HF, not included is mower /truck, that type of stuff. Add a new tool or 2 every payday that you figured out you need and you’re off and running.
Edit to ad that I have a 4.5 k HF winch for the back of my truck when wheeling. I built the plate from scrap from the weld shop in town. A good set of jumper cables to reach the truck battery and I’m set. I’ve about broke even on that set up on beer alone from going and pulling guys out of the snow up in the mountains in the winter. My last recovery netted me a truck wash for getting muddy, and 3/ 30 packs of beer. Attached File |
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OP, you need a rack for your trailer to put your trimmers and Blowers on, that also secures them.
I used to run my own Lawn Company and I've got a few friends that still do and I've seen many of Trimmers and Blowers walk away while workers were in the back yards or out of sight of the truck... Plus, If they are on the rack, they don't take up trailer floor space and there is more room in the bed for other tools. I mounted mine across the front of the trailer, so we could access it from either side. Also had a rack on the passenger side as that's the side almost always against the curb. One of my buddies welded a winch mount for a (detachable Winch) to the front of the trailer, so he could winch Mowers and busted ATVs up. Here is the link to the Trimmer Trap Page |
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OP, you need a rack for your trailer to put your trimmers and Blowers on, that also secures them. I used to run my own Lawn Company and I've got a few friends that still do and I've seen many of Trimmers and Blowers walk away while workers were in the back yards or out of sight of the truck... Plus, If they are on the rack, they don't take up trailer floor space and there is more room in the bed for other tools. I mounted mine across the front of the trailer, so we could access it from either side. Also had a rack on the passenger side as that's the side almost always against the curb. One of my buddies welded a winch mount for a (detachable Winch) to the front of the trailer, so he could winch Mowers and busted ATVs up. Here is the link to the Trimmer Trap Page View Quote Keep your eyes out for a truck box to mount to the front of the trailer. You can store some things in there as well (perhaps that come along which I agree you should get) I had both a regular truck and one with a service body. I loved the service body a lot more. I hated jumping up in the bed to get stuff, or reaching over the side to get things. For tools get one of the sets that comes in a blow molded case from the hardware store. Preferably something cheap that you can easily replace should it get stolen. Buy whatever is easiest to get to in your area (Craftsman at Lowes or Husky at HD) |
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Quoted: Pulled with trailer hooked to truck(you don't want it to tilt up when the load comes onto the back). come along(s) mounted to trailer. Pull (A) from maximum to the minimum, then Pull (B) from maximum to minimum. Reset (A) and repeat. I've only needed to do this twice to pull a truck up an 18' flatbed. The Harbor Freight winch issue is mounting their winch. First you have to buy the winch. Then you have to buy a mouting plate. then you You will have find a spot on your trailer to affix a Mounting Plate to bolt the winch too. You have to find a way to affix the mounting plate to your trailer. That means welding it onto the frame, or if you can find a place to drill, (hard to do on most trailers due to small rails - frame) you could try to drill holes in the frame and then bolt it in place with Grade 8 bolts. Then you have the power issue. Do you want to spend the bucks for a separate deep cell battery just to power the winch? and you need to remember to keep it charged so do you have a battery charger for it? and don't forget you will need to mount the battery (don't want it to bounce around down the road or worse yet bounce off) so you need a box & strap kit, plus you will need to run power & control cables too. See what I mean about a lot of work if you don't use it much? I went through the hassle to mount a winch in a flatbed to use as a car - truck hauler for a side business (moving hurricane flood damaged cars) when every single one of them as a non-runner mess. Worth it then for constant use with every trip, but how often in reality does your mower break to the point you'd need to winch it up your trailer to take it home? Spend $100-$150 winch, $30 winch plate, $150 - $175 battery, $30 battery charger, $30 battery box & battery mount, $20 cables, Plus weld or drill on your trailer for the mounting of the winch & battery. Or use your pair of $19.99 come along hand winches (don't forget you can get 20% off with your magic harbor Freight coupon!) with $8.00 of nylon straps. Plus you can use the come along winches for other business things too. (lower a cut tree limb, move a tree trunk, ect...) View Quote I had a plan for the power, and a box to mount to the front of the trailer (not without cost of course) based on a friend's design. But it does take work. Nothing like this sets up easily, in my observation. I'm going to look into the come-alongs, and see how easily I could manage those. Thank you! |
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OP, you need a rack for your trailer to put your trimmers and Blowers on, that also secures them. I used to run my own Lawn Company and I've got a few friends that still do and I've seen many of Trimmers and Blowers walk away while workers were in the back yards or out of sight of the truck... Plus, If they are on the rack, they don't take up trailer floor space and there is more room in the bed for other tools. I mounted mine across the front of the trailer, so we could access it from either side. Also had a rack on the passenger side as that's the side almost always against the curb. One of my buddies welded a winch mount for a (detachable Winch) to the front of the trailer, so he could winch Mowers and busted ATVs up. Here is the link to the Trimmer Trap Page View Quote I'll look at the trimmer traps too, though, before I purchase. Going to GIE this fall (since it's close to me) and was gonna wait til I look at this stuff up close and personal, but the ED racks impressed me, and they say no problem to mount to my square tubing. Definitely interested in looking at any other brands. Are you saying your buddy mounted the winch plate to YOUR trailer? Or his? I was just wondering whether the winch stayed on there most of the time, and how he/you covered it. I've got a friend with a boat trailer who built a stainless diamond plate box for his winch and battery, and even used a solar panel to keep it charged. He would build me one, but don't know what he'd charge. |
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I was going to post the same thing. Needs to be lockable, and something you use every single time. Keep your eyes out for a truck box to mount to the front of the trailer. You can store some things in there as well (perhaps that come along which I agree you should get) I had both a regular truck and one with a service body. I loved the service body a lot more. I hated jumping up in the bed to get stuff, or reaching over the side to get things. For tools get one of the sets that comes in a blow molded case from the hardware store. Preferably something cheap that you can easily replace should it get stolen. Buy whatever is easiest to get to in your area (Craftsman at Lowes or Husky at HD) View Quote I actually own many, many tools. Too many to carry on a truck. Which is why I need help knowing WHAT to put on the truck and what would be useless waste of space. The thing I don't own is the impact wrench and the sockets specific to said wrench. I do have several sets of sockets of course (all older, some Craftsman from when the name "Sears" meant something), but not sure they'd take the beating of an impact wrench. I just have no experience with that. Hoping to only have to buy whatever I need for the impact, and scavenge my garage for anything else I need. I'm a tool ho, odd for a female, I know, but there you go. |
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impact wrench hog ring vs pin detent (dewalt) I have one of the 20V Dewalt impact drivers. I'm sure its the smaller one, its light. Not enough torque to remove the lug nuts from my GMC 2500. Once I get them loose it will spin them. Works well enough though. Likely will be fine for other jobs. These are great things to have. Let you use the sockets you likely already have. |
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Quoted: Thanks. I actually own many, many tools. Too many to carry on a truck. Which is why I need help knowing WHAT to put on the truck and what would be useless waste of space. The thing I don't own is the impact wrench and the sockets specific to said wrench. I do have several sets of sockets of course (all older, some Craftsman from when the name "Sears" meant something), but not sure they'd take the beating of an impact wrench. I just have no experience with that. Hoping to only have to buy whatever I need for the impact, and scavenge my garage for anything else I need. I'm a tool ho, odd for a female, I know, but there you go. View Quote Personally I'd pick up a cheapo set of hand tools. Your old Craftsman set is actually worth something over the newer China made sets. As far as what to carry on the truck. Whatever you need to tighten down exposed bolts/nuts, get the wheels off, and any wear/maintenance items that you can easily do in the field. If it's bigger than that you're likely having to head back to your fully stocked shop to fix the problem. |
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For basic maintenance? An impact is a great starting point, so are sockets rated for the impact. Ratchets will be life-changing for anything hard to reach. I'd be looking for some combination wrenches, too, for free-turning bolts, otherwise the impact will just spin both the nut and bolt and accomplish nothing.
PB Blaster and brake cleaner, for unsticking and degreasing. Basic hand tools. You'll most likely actually come out ahead on just buying spare wheel-tire units for your mower versus a self-propelled compressor, or a compressor and generator. There's also a big difference between a basic work truck and a serious service truck. Most mine service trucks I've used are shops on wheels, with a welder/generator, diesel compressor, and oxy/acetylene torches. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RmhBd1wcEA I have one of the 20V Dewalt impact drivers. I'm sure its the smaller one, its light. Not enough torque to remove the lug nuts from my GMC 2500. Once I get them loose it will spin them. Works well enough though. Likely will be fine for other jobs. These are great things to have. Let you use the sockets you likely already have. View Quote I do want enough torque for lug nuts, because that's the thing that keeps me from changing the bigger tires on a truck/SUV. I have tricks to lift the wheel onto the lugs, but no tricks will let my 118 lbs loosen an overtorqued nut. |
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Tekton or Sunnex impacts won't set you back too much. Harbor freight ones are surprisingly good. Mine are going on 10 years of DIYer use without issue. Personally I'd pick up a cheapo set of hand tools. Your old Craftsman set is actually worth something over the newer China made sets. As far as what to carry on the truck. Whatever you need to tighten down exposed bolts/nuts, get the wheels off, and any wear/maintenance items that you can easily do in the field. If it's bigger than that you're likely having to head back to your fully stocked shop to fix the problem. View Quote Only piece of Snap On I will likely ever own. I had planned on going the HF route for my first impact sockets, so that's good to hear. It's not like I'll be using these EVERY day, or anywhere near what y'all would call hard use. But they do need to work. |
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For basic maintenance? An impact is a great starting point, so are sockets rated for the impact. Ratchets will be life-changing for anything hard to reach. I'd be looking for some combination wrenches, too, for free-turning bolts, otherwise the impact will just spin both the nut and bolt and accomplish nothing. PB Blaster and brake cleaner, for unsticking and degreasing. Basic hand tools. You'll most likely actually come out ahead on just buying spare wheel-tire units for your mower versus a self-propelled compressor, or a compressor and generator. There's also a big difference between a basic work truck and a serious service truck. Most mine service trucks I've used are shops on wheels, with a welder/generator, diesel compressor, and oxy/acetylene torches. View Quote That buying extra wheel units is something I hadn't thought of. One front and one back, with the tools to change them out--that's a good idea. Won't take care of my truck or trailer of course. I'm always going to make actually changing the truck or trailer tire a last resort, but I need the ability to do it myself if necessary. I'm definitely adding PB Blaster and Brake Cleaner to the list. |
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Take a look at the VIAIR compressors, I have the 85P and have used it many times to air up my pickup truck tires before towing. The 88P comes with battery clamps instead of the cigarette lighter adapter and is even better, I can’t imagine you needing anything more.
Just be aware the metal compressor housing gets VERY VERY hot after four truck tires on a hot summer day and will melt the skin on your legs in a heartbeat. It did when I kneeled on mine by accident. |
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I'm definitely adding PB Blaster and Brake Cleaner to the list. View Quote Does your truck have the 5.3 Triton? If so plugs 1 and 8 have a tendency to blow themselves out of the head. Repair is to helicoil them, but they're in a pain in the ass spot to get to. Easier to take the head off and do it on a bench. Find out what equipment rental place near you rents core aerators and start putting the bug in people's ears now about aerating in the fall. Get folks locked in for dates now and setup your rental for 1-2 weeks. Knock out as many as you can and make some extra $$$. Personally I'd let true green and outfits like that do the herbicides and pesticides. Some places put environmental restrictions and additional permiting requirements on you if you do it for pay. |
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I'm fixin' to buy one of these. I'm in the DeWalt battery system already. I will buy DeWalt. Dewalt has many impact wrenches available. I'm looking at the 1/2" drive ones. Tell me if I should be looking at something different. View Quote I also have the biggest, highest-power impact that DeWalt makes. If this won't get it off... you're gonna need a torch. It's an absolute beast. We're talking *twisting* 5/8" studs. I don't even bother getting this out unless I'm doing something REALLY hard, and that's fairly rare. Given what you're going to do, any of the 1/2" units would work. You can do the big, bad one so you never need a more powerful one, but that's up to you. ~~I don't understand detent pin anvil vs hog ring thingy, or why I should care. I want to understand. View Quote ~~The "mid-range" wrench is light and small. (300 lbs torque, 600 lbs breakaway torque) Obviously I like the light weight of it. (for anybody who doesn't know, I'm female and small) BUT it has a lot less torque, and a lot less breakaway torque than the bigger one. Mower wheel lug nuts torque to 95 ft lbs. No idea what else might need more. ~~The heavier one is...HEAVY for me. I can manage it. If I need it, that's what I'll buy (as an aside, my awesome mower dealer winched my mower up in his shop, handed me his DeWalt wrench and shoved his mechanic's creeper at me, then he walked back to the mower he was working on and said, "take your blades off. Holler if you need me." Yep, I've got the best mower guy on the planet. Anyway...The wrench was heavy, but I was okay with it.) View Quote Get deep sockets, not shallow! |
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Pro tip. 50/50 ATF and acetone in a spray bottle puts PB blaster to shame for loosening stuck fasteners. Have to shake it up before you spray it, they don't stay mixed together. Does your truck have the 5.3 Triton? If so plugs 1 and 8 have a tendency to blow themselves out of the head. Repair is to helicoil them, but they're in a pain in the ass spot to get to. Easier to take the head off and do it on a bench. View Quote Is it safe to carry in the truck, getting hot/cold/etc? I'm so far from a chemist you can't even imagine. Except for soil science, which I know sort of. Re the engine..I *think* I have the 4.6. (that right there should tell you that I haven't looked at it closely since I researched the trouble spots when I bought the truck. It's high mileage and still pretty new to me.) Now you have me thinking I'm gonna walk down the driveway and pop the hood and look. But because of time availability, anything that happens to the truck engine that is not simple maintenance, will go to Awesome Mechanic Shop Guy. While I am capable of wrenching on an engine (simple stuff, anyway) I am very, very slow, get frustrated and cuss a lot. I've learned to pick my fights carefully, and this fight is not worth it for me, when this is my only wheels that will tow my mower. It has to stay up, and Awesome Mechanic Shop Guy somehow squeezes time for my truck into a very packed schedule. As an aside, he owned this very model truck at one point, and has a freaky scary knowledge of the innards. He's solved a couple of diagnostic mysteries on the engine already. I'm grateful to have him. Okay brag over. |
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Quoted: Not a bad choice. I have two DeWalt impact wrenches - one is, I *think*, the lowest-power one they have made, it's only rated for something like 120 ft-lbs breakaway. Tightening, if you give it a while to work, it'll get up to MAYBE 70 ft-lbs. It is just a 1/4" unit that came from a kit. Yet, I've never had it fail to remove a lug nut with a few seconds of work, or *most* bolts/nuts for that matter. The only ones too heavy for it were the huge nut with a lock washer on a 2" receiver ball and the 5/8" diameter, highly-rusted-in bolts that were corroded through the shaft of my struts. I also have the biggest, highest-power impact that DeWalt makes. If this won't get it off... you're gonna need a torch. It's an absolute beast. We're talking *twisting* 5/8" studs. I don't even bother getting this out unless I'm doing something REALLY hard, and that's fairly rare. Given what you're going to do, any of the 1/2" units would work. You can do the big, bad one so you never need a more powerful one, but that's up to you. You want the hog-ring. The detent anvil means you need a tool to press in to release the socket. On a non-corroded bolt, breakaway torque is lower than tightening torque - so if you tighten it to 95 ft-lbs, you'd need something like 70 to get it loose. If it's corroded, you'd need more, but 600ft-lbs breakaway is far and away more than enough for what you're doing. If I'm doing things you're talking about, I would just grab my little one, I wouldn't even think of carting around the big one. Get deep sockets, not shallow! View Quote THIS IS AWESOME! Thank you so much for verifying what my gut choice was going to be. I'd pretty much decided on the mid-range for my first impact wrench, and yes, thought I'd choose deep sockets. They can do pretty much anything (except fit in a very tight space, I guess) which makes shallow sockets redundant for most things, for me. I don't think anybody has the hog ring anvil on the shelf, so I'll have to order that. Dang. ETA: Do you use a wrench to check torque after you use the impact? I mean do you tighten down mostly, then finish off with a torque wrench? Or do you just squeeze, go and pray? (not meant as an insult. I tend to be a rule follower and check torque on everything, but I also know that sometimes it's overkill.) |
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ETA: Do you use a wrench to check torque after you use the impact? I mean do you tighten down mostly, then finish off with a torque wrench? Or do you just squeeze, go and pray? (not meant as an insult. I tend to be a rule follower and check torque on everything, but I also know that sometimes it's overkill.) View Quote With anything more powerful, I would only get "snug" with the impact, then use a wrench or torque wrench for final tightening. Or, for something critical like lug-nuts, always a torque wrench. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RmhBd1wcEA I have one of the 20V Dewalt impact drivers. I'm sure its the smaller one, its light. Not enough torque to remove the lug nuts from my GMC 2500. Once I get them loose it will spin them. Works well enough though. Likely will be fine for other jobs. These are great things to have. Let you use the sockets you likely already have. View Quote Great explanation of how both systems work. Thank you! |
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Take a look at the VIAIR compressors, I have the 85P and have used it many times to air up my pickup truck tires before towing. The 88P comes with battery clamps instead of the cigarette lighter adapter and is even better, I can’t imagine you needing anything more. Just be aware the metal compressor housing gets VERY VERY hot after four truck tires on a hot summer day and will melt the skin on your legs in a heartbeat. It did when I kneeled on mine by accident. View Quote Didn't know about a compressor I could hook to my battery. Thank you! |
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I have the big Dewalt XR 20v impact gun with a detent. It's awesome and it rides in my truck all the time. I bought it off ebay from someone that buys damaged freight and breaks up tool kits. Much cheaper than big box store.
After about 6 uses I've never needed a tool to push the detent in. If the sockets don't have a detent lock hole it doesn't matter. I have a set of English and metric impact sockets from Harbor Freight. Also have a big breaker bar from there to help break lug nuts loose. |
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I have the big Dewalt XR 20v impact gun with a detent. It's awesome and it rides in my truck all the time. I bought it off ebay from someone that buys damaged freight and breaks up tool kits. Much cheaper than big box store. After about 6 uses I've never needed a tool to push the detent in. If the sockets don't have a detent lock hole it doesn't matter. I have a set of English and metric impact sockets from Harbor Freight. Also have a big breaker bar from there to help break lug nuts loose. View Quote I watched the video that @Eagle34 posted, and the guy in the video had to struggle a little with both the hog ring and the detent style anvils, when taking off a socket when the wrench is new. Looks like you can replace the hog ring when it gets too loose to hold the socket. Not sure about the detent. Incidentally, I went looking for a 1.5" socket from Harbor Freight last winter (for another application) and could not find anything bigger than 1.25" All the sets seem to stop at that size. People tell me they are available from HF in big sizes (thinking of the nut that holds on my trailer hitch ball) but I think maybe I'm looking in the wrong places. |
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Someone above mentioned a breaker bar. I concur. Get one that's 1/2" drive and 18ish" long. Then find a 3ish' long piece of pipe in your (or better yet, your buddies) scrap pile to have on hand for a cheater bar. The pipe won't take up much room, but is handy to have when you need it.
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Here’s what I would put on the truck. It looks like a lot, but most of it will fit in a 3-4 drawer tool chest:
1/4” drive metric and standard socket set to 1/2” (13mm) (deep-well and short) 3/8” drive metric and standard socket set to 7/8” (22mm) (deep-well and short) 1/2” drive deep-well impact socket set to 1” (25mm) Metric and standard combination wrench set to 1” (25mm) Ratchets to match socket sets Extensions (2, 4 and 6”) to match socket sets 1/2" breaker bar (12” minimum, longer is better) 6” slip-joint pliers and side cutters 8” channel locks 8” vice grips 6” needle-nose pliers Magnetic retriever #2 Philips and standard screwdrivers (stubby and 6” length) Lightweight aluminum hydraulic jack (HF makes a good one) 2 1-ton (minimum) jack stands Whichever impact wrench you prefer 4-way lug wrench 4’ long, 1.5” diameter steel pipe for cheater bar 12-18”, 3/4" diameter steel pipe for cheater bar As far as winching goes, I’d mount a boat winch to the trailer and use the impact wrench to spin it. |
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Someone above mentioned a breaker bar. I concur. Get one that's 1/2" drive and 18ish" long. Then find a 3ish' long piece of pipe in your (or better yet, your buddies) scrap pile to have on hand for a cheater bar. The pipe won't take up much room, but is handy to have when you need it. View Quote My cheater bar walked along with it. All the people on the job site with me were bigger than I am. I needed it more than they did. Adding these two things to the list to carry on the truck. |
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No worse than the gas and oil you carry with you.....which you're carrying for the mower & truck right? View Quote I carry all kinds of oil--mix, mower, truck.... So yeah. I'm a rolling explosion possibility. One reason the gas can racks will be first to buy, to get them out of the back end of my truck. I think they're a little safer attached to the trailer. That may be wishful thinking. |
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STuff in Red in the quote. You will see that I'm asking for any help as to WHY you recommend what you do (general situations for a mower out in the field), because you have obviously more knowledge than I do, and you are foreseeing things happening that I do not. Keep in mind that I will not work on my mower engine, nor my truck engine, in the field. I just won't. At that I will call my backup buddy and say, "you gotta mow my yards I'm stuck." Which is what he will do to me in a similar situation. We have an agreement.
That doesn't mean I won't or can't put all this on my truck. Just that it will help me to know how I might be using any/all of it with what I'm doing. Helps me to think through it. Quoted:
Here’s what I would put on the truck. It looks like a lot, but most of it will fit in a 3-4 drawer tool chest: 1/4” drive metric and standard socket set to 1/2” (13mm) (deep-well and short) 3/8” drive metric and standard socket set to 7/8” (22mm) (deep-well and short) 1/2” drive deep-well impact socket set to 1” (25mm) Do you have any faith in the 1/2 to quarter inch adapters? Most of my stuff is 1/2". Very little 1/4" but I do have some. Metric and standard combination wrench set to 1” (25mm) Got it, though they are not the best quality. My good combination wrenches are bigger. Some are VERY big, which I inherited, keep staring at and thinking, "I'll never use those." Some of them are all rusted up, but I refuse to get rid of them. I have some kind of weird attachment to tools. Ratchets to match socket sets Extensions (2, 4 and 6”) to match socket sets--Hmmm...don't have all of these. Adding to list. 1/2" breaker bar (12” minimum, longer is better)--Gonna get a longer one, per post above, and a cheater bar. 6” slip-joint pliers and side cutters--Got the pliers. WHAT ARE SIDE CUTTERS? Guessing this is a difference in what I call things. 8” channel locks Got em. 8” vice grips Got Plenty. 6” needle-nose pliers Got em. Magnetic retriever Got em. Thank you Harbor Freight. #2 Philips and standard screwdrivers (stubby and 6” length) Hmmm...got some versions of these, though maybe not stubby for all. Will fix that. Lightweight aluminum hydraulic jack (HF makes a good one) Okay knowing I have the farm jack, talk to me about what this is for? (I do understand lots of different purposes for each, but help me envision what you're seeing this used for in different scenarios? Because this will help me get my head in the right spot to handle situations. ) I have hydraulic jacks--probably four or five of them in the garage, from about 8" tall to a little bigger. They were once used to lift parts of my house (whole nuther story--jacking up a house). They are not lightweight and not aluminum (and probably all empty of oil). Teach me what I will need this for so I can either buy the lighter one or make best use of what I have? 2 1-ton (minimum) jack stands --Got em. Already in the truck. Whichever impact wrench you prefer Bought it tonight. No sockets yet though. 4-way lug wrench--I actually own one of these--a really old one. I don't have it on the truck because I assumed my impact was going to do this work for me. Am I wrong? 4’ long, 1.5” diameter steel pipe for cheater bar 12-18”, 3/4" diameter steel pipe for cheater bar As far as winching goes, I’d mount a boat winch to the trailer and use the impact wrench to spin it. I have used a boat winch a number of times--for a sailboat, which does not have much resistance at all, in comparison to the DRT mower. Would the impact spin this and not die? Is a boat winch rated for this kind of weight? I admit a serious lack of knowledge about winches in general. View Quote Thank you for this excellent comment. |
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For what you're doing 3/8 and 1/2 are more than enough. Can probably stick to just 1/2 and be fine. Do you have anything small enough to justify a 1/4 set? If so go pick up a harbor freight, Craftsman, or husky set. If you're cranking hard on a 1/4 drive you should be using 3/8.
Side cutters are also know as diaganol cutters or wire dikes. You got zip ties and bailing wire in your kit? A dead blow mallet is always handy to persuade things to move. Drill and drill bit set (mostly to zip tie or safety wire something that broke up so you can get it out/home Extra fuel hose for your equipment and hose clamps. See if the ID for the larger stuff matches to OD of the smaller stuff. Can "patch" in the field to finish the job and hot the parts store for the correct size on your way to the next. Extra plugs and wires...cuz shit happens A lithium jump pack to jump your largest engine can save your bacon. Pretty cheap too and often double as a phone battery pack. Toss some 2x4s in your truck bed. Helpful to get you unstuck sometimes. Same with 2 pieces of rebar, a driving cap, and that come along. |
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Quoted:
For what you're doing 3/8 and 1/2 are more than enough. Side cutters are also know as diaganol cutters or wire dikes. View Quote sidecutters To add to the above: Craftsman used to call them diagonal pliers = some manufacturers call them linesmen pliers = my sparky/linemen buddies all call them Kleins (regardless of brand, though they generally prefer Klein brand) = grandpa called them sidecutters (so that's what I stick with even if the rest of the world calls them something different!). |
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Look into a set of Torque Sticks.
They'll keep you from over tightening lug nuts etc. There's sever brands ranging in price. IIRC mine were in the 50 dollar range and work fine. Be safe.. |
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Quoted:
Look into a set of Torque Sticks. They'll keep you from over tightening lug nuts etc. There's sever brands ranging in price. IIRC mine were in the 50 dollar range and work fine. Be safe.. View Quote Good enough for that sort of application and essentially disposable should they get lost. Mines has stayed calibrated within an acceptable margin of error for 10ish years. |
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Stuff in red in the quote.
Quoted:
For what you're doing 3/8 and 1/2 are more than enough. Can probably stick to just 1/2 and be fine. Do you have anything small enough to justify a 1/4 set? If so go pick up a harbor freight, Craftsman, or husky set. If you're cranking hard on a 1/4 drive you should be using 3/8. This has always been my take on it...very few things have needed the quarter inch..BUT...every now and then, something tiny comes along that is in a spot a long handle can't reach..so...1/4" for the save! I'm just not envisioning that on the mower. I may be dead wrong though. Maybe my smaller tools would need those. Trimmers, blowers, hedge trimmers, bitty-bit chainsaw I carry in the truck....hmmm.. Side cutters are also know as diaganol cutters or wire dikes. OH yeah...got dikes. At least two pairs I think. You got zip ties and bailing wire in your kit?NO. Will fix that immediately. A dead blow mallet is always handy to persuade things to move. Okay I had to look that up. Still not sure if this is just a rubber hammer or if it's more specialized. Sounds like it's less "giv-ey" than a rubber hammer. Drill and drill bit set (mostly to zip tie or safety wire something that broke up so you can get it out/home Well well. I have that in the back of my van. I should transfer it to the work truck. Extra fuel hose for your equipment and hose clamps. See if the ID for the larger stuff matches to OD of the smaller stuff. Can "patch" in the field to finish the job and hot the parts store for the correct size on your way to the next. OH yeah. This is awesome freaking advice right here. I will hit my mower guy up for some fuel line in all sizes for my equipment. Extra plugs and wires...cuz shit happens Adding to list. A lithium jump pack to jump your largest engine can save your bacon. Pretty cheap too and often double as a phone battery pack. I am unfamiliar with these. I will have to look. Toss some 2x4s in your truck bed. Helpful to get you unstuck sometimes. Same with 2 pieces of rebar, a driving cap, and that come along. I carry some 2 X 6 pieces (about four feet long) on the trailer, because I use them to raise the edge of the back gate a little, to soften the angle of approach for my mower. And I have used those to get myself out of a ditch, per the photo in the OP. How would I use the rebar? (Clearly Kitties has not been stuck enough times to know this. The come-along is on the list already. View Quote |
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Quoted: I was gonna say the same thing. I think 1/4" is unnecessary in the field. sidecutters To add to the above: Craftsman used to call them diagonal pliers = some manufacturers call them linesmen pliers = my sparky/linemen buddies all call them Kleins (regardless of brand, though they generally prefer Klein brand) = grandpa called them sidecutters (so that's what I stick with even if the rest of the world calls them something different!). View Quote If my grandpa called them sidecutters, I'd call them that too. |
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Quoted:
Look into a set of Torque Sticks. They'll keep you from over tightening lug nuts etc. There's sever brands ranging in price. IIRC mine were in the 50 dollar range and work fine. Be safe.. View Quote So you put that little extension between your wrench and your socket, and it stops you from overtorquing stuff? Genius. |
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Quoted:
https://www.hfqpdb.com/coupons/3364_ITEM_CLICK-TYPE_TORQUE_WRENCHES_1560793093.2103.png Good enough for that sort of application and essentially disposable should they get lost. Mines has stayed calibrated within an acceptable margin of error for 10ish years. View Quote |
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Quoted:
ARB compressor on the truck. Easy to install and doesn’t cost much compared to the benefit. Carry a couple spare tubes, couple bottles of slime. Get a 4K HF winch and get a cradle to use on a receiver hitch. Have someone weld a receiver tube on front of your trailer so it can be used on back of truck and trailer. Long jumper cables from truck battery will work for winch power. Get a locking deck toolbox for the back of the truck or trailer. A couple few hand toolbox’s and walk every isle at HF. Get a Dewalt cordless impact and spent a few hundred on hand tools and your set. Also pick up a tire plug/ patch set and your in business. I could set you up for probably 2k-2.5k to start by using CL and HF, not included is mower /truck, that type of stuff. Add a new tool or 2 every payday that you figured out you need and you’re off and running. Edit to ad that I have a 4.5 k HF winch for the back of my truck when wheeling. I built the plate from scrap from the weld shop in town. A good set of jumper cables to reach the truck battery and I’m set. I’ve about broke even on that set up on beer alone from going and pulling guys out of the snow up in the mountains in the winter. My last recovery netted me a truck wash for getting muddy, and 3/ 30 packs of beer.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/224625/FCCFE51F-F0E3-46B4-8B09-557E940EE8AB_jpeg-984655.JPG View Quote Do you have it in a box to keep the weather off of it? Do you have the receiver tube you mentioned on your truck/trailer? I"m very interested in any photos so I can see what you do, or maybe even take the photos to the welder and say, "I want this." (Kitties feels shame that she has not made progress on her own welding. That's still in the hopper.) So that means you don't have to have a battery alongside the winch. You just use uber-long cables (which are probably not cheap but still) and your truck battery to run it. Am I understanding you correctly? |
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We discussed in the other trailer thread that you can use 2 tie down straps as a form of a winch for rare occassions.
Get the bigger ones, 3 inch strap width and bigger handles. You hook one on front of trailer and one onto mower. Start ratcheting til it won't ratchet any more. Take your 2nd strap and set it up the same way and just do a couple clicks til the pressure is off your first strap and on the 2nd strap. Now unhook the 1st strap so you don't run it over. Ratchet 2nd strap til it won't click anymore and now repeat with the first strap and go back and forth til mower is on trailer. Just adding a pulley or two and a lot of rope would probably give you enough mechanical advantage to pull the mower up onto the trailer. Winches use pullies to redirect pulling power or to double pulling power, it halves pulling speed. Winch on trailer is meh. Get 4k lb atv winch or something if you do it. Toolbox hacked up so you can mount a battery and winch in it and bolt it to trailer and have hole in side for winch cable to come out is the usual. Would recomend a solar panel battery tender or something to keep battery in good shape. To some extent you can rig up jumper cables to power winch but that is a lot of big wire and a long run from under hood of truck to winch. Can buy roll of wire and connectors or cut up jumper cables or whatever. I would get the big battery impact. Use it for breaking things loose. Use hand tools to spin the loose lug nuts off and back on. Buy a harbor freight torque wrench for final torque on lug nuts. Not as awesome as spiffy torque wrench but good enough. I don't have anything against torque sticks, just don't know if you will use em enough to be worth it. I have a portable viar air compressor that clips on the battery posts. It works fine for airing up tires and stuff. Lot better than one that plugs in cig lighter. If you put battery and winch on trailer you could put this in there as well. The factory hose won't be near long enough to reach everything you will have, it might reach all 4 pickup tires while attached to pickup's battery. Can replace hose or make mini jumper cables for it. I am not against a winch on the trailer. I just don't see you needing it often. Play with some good ratchet straps and see what you think. You could buy a couple come a longs or rig up some pullies like I mentioned. The ratchet straps have a lot of uses. I would focus on that. |
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Quoted:
We discussed in the other trailer thread that you can use 2 tie down straps as a form of a winch for rare occassions. Get the bigger ones, 3 inch strap width and bigger handles. You hook one on front of trailer and one onto mower. Start ratcheting til it won't ratchet any more. Take your 2nd strap and set it up the same way and just do a couple clicks til the pressure is off your first strap and on the 2nd strap. Now unhook the 1st strap so you don't run it over. Ratchet 2nd strap til it won't click anymore and now repeat with the first strap and go back and forth til mower is on trailer. Just adding a pulley or two and a lot of rope would probably give you enough mechanical advantage to pull the mower up onto the trailer. Winches use pullies to redirect pulling power or to double pulling power, it halves pulling speed. Winch on trailer is meh. Get 4k lb atv winch or something if you do it. Toolbox hacked up so you can mount a battery and winch in it and bolt it to trailer and have hole in side for winch cable to come out is the usual. Would recomend a solar panel battery tender or something to keep battery in good shape. To some extent you can rig up jumper cables to power winch but that is a lot of big wire and a long run from under hood of truck to winch. Can buy roll of wire and connectors or cut up jumper cables or whatever. I would get the big battery impact. Use it for breaking things loose. Use hand tools to spin the loose lug nuts off and back on. Buy a harbor freight torque wrench for final torque on lug nuts. Not as awesome as spiffy torque wrench but good enough. I don't have anything against torque sticks, just don't know if you will use em enough to be worth it. I have a portable viar air compressor that clips on the battery posts. It works fine for airing up tires and stuff. Lot better than one that plugs in cig lighter. If you put battery and winch on trailer you could put this in there as well. The factory hose won't be near long enough to reach everything you will have, it might reach all 4 pickup tires while attached to pickup's battery. Can replace hose or make mini jumper cables for it. I am not against a winch on the trailer. I just don't see you needing it often. Play with some good ratchet straps and see what you think. You could buy a couple come a longs or rig up some pullies like I mentioned. The ratchet straps have a lot of uses. I would focus on that. View Quote I did remember your strap-winch method from the trailer thread. I did not get a chance to try it. (actually grateful to not have the need). You are the second person to mention the Viar compressor. I'm gonna have to look at that. I hate the little cigarette lighter versions. My buddy who built his own box for the winch did exactly what you suggest--rigged a solar panel to keep the battery going. I was considering that, if I go the winch route. I need to talk to him about the overall cost of his setup. Thanks for the help with this! |
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Keep in mind a winch can suck a battery dry pretty quickly. I would oversize all wire and connectors so in the summer you don't build up a lot of heat in things if you use it.
Some people will bolt a hitch mount on part of the trailer frame and then use a portable hitch mount to just bring the winch out as needed. This lets you keep it locked away when not in use. Depending on rating of winch and all that, best use really strong setup. Viar has built their name and I am happy with the couple compressors of theirs I own. There are other options, even a small air compressor for air nailing stuff that runs on house current will usually run on the proper sized invertor and a normal truck size battery. I did this for a while on a wrangler. Invertor was used for other stuff as well. On board air and impacts are something most of the 4x4 boards have huge threads on. |
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Quoted:
Keep in mind a winch can suck a battery dry pretty quickly. I would oversize all wire and connectors so in the summer you don't build up a lot of heat in things if you use it. Some people will bolt a hitch mount on part of the trailer frame and then use a portable hitch mount to just bring the winch out as needed. This lets you keep it locked away when not in use. Depending on rating of winch and all that, best use really strong setup. Viar has built their name and I am happy with the couple compressors of theirs I own. There are other options, even a small air compressor for air nailing stuff that runs on house current will usually run on the proper sized invertor and a normal truck size battery. I did this for a while on a wrangler. Invertor was used for other stuff as well. On board air and impacts are something most of the 4x4 boards have huge threads on. View Quote |
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Been several years ago, a cheap air compressor called a puma was popular for off roaders to dismantle and install on their vehicle. I forget if they were 12 volt or needed an invertor. Could put the air tank under the vehicle and the compressor inside the vehicle to protect it. Some wire and switches and fuses and away they went.
I had some cheap rebranded house current portable air compressor for a while. Never mounted it but used it with the invertor. Had a 1 gallon or so air tank I guess. These days the viar stuff is good and has no air tank. Nice and portable. On any of these little things pay attention to their duty cycle. 100% means it can run all the time. So air up tire after tire after tire and no cool down needed. Some need cool down time. Part of this depends on the load, a 15psi mower tire vs a 45psi truck tire is going to make it work differently. Viar makes stuff for the low rider vehicles as well, the ones that can drop down low or rise up with the push of a button. I go back and forth on if a tank is needed. You would have some compressed air without running the compressor but generally these tiny tanks won't do much by themselves so you may as well hook up the compressor. Custom jumper cables and plugs have been discussed in the past. The military uses a connector someone here will mention or I will think of later and post tomorrow on it. These plugs are rated at certain levels but a portable small winch would probably be ok with them. So not only do you have jumper cables, but you could power the winch with em as well. I have storms rolling in so done for tonight. Have fun with your new projects. |
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Quoted:
I did look online for advice about an onboard air compressor and the bottom line seemed to be it was really expensive for what it could do. (a lot of the threads seemed to be about running a big train horn on a pickup truck just to be uber cool). I did not find anything that seemed reasonable in cost or easily installed, for the type of work I want to do with it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Keep in mind a winch can suck a battery dry pretty quickly. I would oversize all wire and connectors so in the summer you don't build up a lot of heat in things if you use it. Some people will bolt a hitch mount on part of the trailer frame and then use a portable hitch mount to just bring the winch out as needed. This lets you keep it locked away when not in use. Depending on rating of winch and all that, best use really strong setup. Viar has built their name and I am happy with the couple compressors of theirs I own. There are other options, even a small air compressor for air nailing stuff that runs on house current will usually run on the proper sized invertor and a normal truck size battery. I did this for a while on a wrangler. Invertor was used for other stuff as well. On board air and impacts are something most of the 4x4 boards have huge threads on. |
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2x 3-4' pieces of rebar hammered into the ground in the shape of an X with 30-40% sticking up makes for a field expedient anchor if a tree or truck is too far away. Works best in dry clay soils or Rocky soils. Getting the rebar out can be a bitch. Works best with 2 people. One to drive and the other on the come along.
I've also used that trick to pull a vehicle onto a trailer with a similar construction to yours. A 2x4 then the rebar on top of it on either side of the tongue. Wrapped the cable around the rail supports and the wood helped disperse the force out more broke the 2x4s in half the first attempt tossed the rebar in as a desperate measure. Speaking off toss some garden hose in your bed. If you have to wrap a cable around a tree you want to protect it. Dead blows have lead shot in the head. All the energy is transfered into whatever you are wailing on. Harbor Freight for this again. Might as well pick up a long pry bar in addition to the breaker bar. HFQPDB.com is your new best friend. Only suckers pay full price at HF. Get one of the $5 quantum pocket lights while you're there. Stupid bright and runs on AAs. |
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@Kitties-with-Sigs- sorry it took so long to respond- I was running around with my granddaughter and son. Comments below.
Oh yeah- a poster above mentioned dead-blow hammers. Get one of those and a 16-ounce ball peen as well, in addition to a punch and chisel set. A hacksaw wouldn't hurt either. Quoted:
STuff in Red in the quote. You will see that I'm asking for any help as to WHY you recommend what you do (general situations for a mower out in the field), because you have obviously more knowledge than I do, and you are foreseeing things happening that I do not. Keep in mind that I will not work on my mower engine, nor my truck engine, in the field. I just won't. At that I will call my backup buddy and say, "you gotta mow my yards I'm stuck." Which is what he will do to me in a similar situation. We have an agreement. That doesn't mean I won't or can't put all this on my truck. Just that it will help me to know how I might be using any/all of it with what I'm doing. Helps me to think through it. I am making note of the things I need to dig through my piles of tools and find, or buy. Thank you for this excellent comment. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
STuff in Red in the quote. You will see that I'm asking for any help as to WHY you recommend what you do (general situations for a mower out in the field), because you have obviously more knowledge than I do, and you are foreseeing things happening that I do not. Keep in mind that I will not work on my mower engine, nor my truck engine, in the field. I just won't. At that I will call my backup buddy and say, "you gotta mow my yards I'm stuck." Which is what he will do to me in a similar situation. We have an agreement. That doesn't mean I won't or can't put all this on my truck. Just that it will help me to know how I might be using any/all of it with what I'm doing. Helps me to think through it. Quoted:
Here’s what I would put on the truck. It looks like a lot, but most of it will fit in a 3-4 drawer tool chest: 1/4” drive metric and standard socket set to 1/2” (13mm) (deep-well and short) 3/8” drive metric and standard socket set to 7/8” (22mm) (deep-well and short) 1/2” drive deep-well impact socket set to 1” (25mm) Do you have any faith in the 1/2 to quarter inch adapters? Most of my stuff is 1/2". Very little 1/4" but I do have some. No- I have never had need to adapt- up or down- any socket. Metric and standard combination wrench set to 1” (25mm) Got it, though they are not the best quality. My good combination wrenches are bigger. Some are VERY big, which I inherited, keep staring at and thinking, "I'll never use those." Some of them are all rusted up, but I refuse to get rid of them. I have some kind of weird attachment to tools. Ratchets to match socket sets Extensions (2, 4 and 6”) to match socket sets--Hmmm...don't have all of these. Adding to list. 1/2" breaker bar (12” minimum, longer is better)--Gonna get a longer one, per post above, and a cheater bar. 6” slip-joint pliers and side cutters--[color=#980000]Got the pliers. WHAT ARE SIDE CUTTERS? Guessing this is a difference in what I call things. Wire cutters[/color] 8” channel locks Got em. 8” vice grips Got Plenty. 6” needle-nose pliers Got em. Magnetic retriever Got em. Thank you Harbor Freight. #2 Philips and standard screwdrivers (stubby and 6” length) Hmmm...got some versions of these, though maybe not stubby for all. Will fix that. Lightweight aluminum hydraulic jack (HF makes a good one) Okay knowing I have the farm jack, talk to me about what this is for? (I do understand lots of different purposes for each, but help me envision what you're seeing this used for in different scenarios? Because this will help me get my head in the right spot to handle situations. ) I have hydraulic jacks--probably four or five of them in the garage, from about 8" tall to a little bigger. They were once used to lift parts of my house (whole nuther story--jacking up a house). They are not lightweight and not aluminum (and probably all empty of oil). Teach me what I will need this for so I can either buy the lighter one or make best use of what I have? Farm jacks aren't called maiming or killing jacks for nothing. A hydraulic jack is way safer to use. I'm not talking about a bottle jack, but a floor jack like this one. 2 1-ton (minimum) jack stands --Got em. Already in the truck. Whichever impact wrench you prefer Bought it tonight. No sockets yet though. 4-way lug wrench--I actually own one of these--a really old one. I don't have it on the truck because I assumed my impact was going to do this work for me. Am I wrong? I like having a 4-way because sometimes It's easier to use. You could skip it. 4’ long, 1.5” diameter steel pipe for cheater bar 12-18”, 3/4" diameter steel pipe for cheater bar As far as winching goes, I’d mount a boat winch to the trailer and use the impact wrench to spin it. [color=#980000] I have used a boat winch a number of times--for a sailboat, which does not have much resistance at all, in comparison to the DRT mower. Would the impact spin this and not die? Should do it easily. Is a boat winch rated for this kind of weight? At least a ton I admit a serious lack of knowledge about winches in general. [/color] Thank you for this excellent comment. |
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