What's the max HP rating for that hull?

I like the new Mercury 200HP if you can go with that much HP. Digital throttle/shift.  Quiet and smooth as silk.

Probably about $16k

BOAT=bring over another thousand.

In this case, you may consider a line of credit on your house.

I am damn lucky I got that boat stuff out of my system early in life.

Hulltruth is what you seek.

200hp is anywhere from 13-19k

I’d go 200 you will see a massive improvement.

I believe anything over 200 and you’re going to the bigger block. More speed more maintenance more cost

Zuke is the best deal out there right now. I recently priced a 200 and and it’s about 14k rigged. That’s just about the cheapest you can do it

If the current engine is running well don’t change it out. But start saving for when it starts to become unreliable.

Btw, no issues running salt water gear in fresh, but not the other way around.

Yes - thehulltruth website is a wealth of information.

Run her until she blows up, unless you have $$$ burning a hole in your pocket.

Going from an OMC to another brand will require a new control box

and associated cabling. That said, repower with the largest outboard

your boat is rated for if possible. I've never heard anyone say

"I bought too big of a motor".

True as long as you use the proper anodes.

I thought about repowering my 17 foot alumacraft.... has a 60 hp merc on it but its rated up to a 115.  After researching the costs and everything it would be smarter to just buy a new or newer boat with the motor you want.  Hell... a new boat half the cost is the motor.

True.

However, "if you like your hull, you can keep your hull".

This gives you the option of a brand new propulsion system, with warranty, for 1/2

of the new boat price.

If your hull is clapped out, then it's not worth it to repower.

My experience is $100 per 1HP that is going new with new controls and install.  A lot a variables but has always served me well with a project or five.

ETA:  With most boats you pay for the engine and drive and the platform to set it in is nominal.  Jet boats and bigger outboards seem to tilt that theory a bit, old school jet boats are just that and I've found a lot of 'bass boat' guys will re-power just to nab the latest and greatest leaving a used unit on the market for a fraction of the price.  Another thing I've learned over the years is sometimes a re-power isn't the best route, rebuild and or proper troubleshooting can save a ton of coin.  Have also learned that props, proper loading, and even piloting (driving) correctly can make a ton of difference.  Just my experience but listen to KB he's one of the best around.

So, for a n00b - why is a boat motor so expensive?

The old school mentality of 'if you can afford a corvette you can afford to by and pay for parts and service'.   That is the best I've came up with...  I have 2 decades of professional experience in the automotive and heavy equipment/machinery world as a tech, instructor, and analyst and I still cannot wrap my head around boats.

With that said, there is a ton of good info on the .net for someone handy with a wrench.  2 stroke is a 2 stroke if you have ever been a dirt bike guy, one thing I have noticed and messes me up is service literature on marine "stuff" is not written from the same breed of engineers or publishers like just about everything else on the planet (feel bad for marine techs!).

I/O drives, outboards, heck even jets are silly expensive when you say BOAT (break out another thousand).  Look at the the 5.3L outdrives going for crazy cash (30K+) and GM (LS based) power head with a right angle gear box...  What kind of engine could you build in a car for that with a hydraulic transmission and a few gear boxes?

It is marketing and niche trade and I respect that fully respect, but to beat you have to put in the time to learn it.

An very good boat builder a long time ago I blue printed engines for told me " you pay for the drive the hull hopefully works".  After owning a dozen plus of them I am slowly understanding that! And he was the hull designer...

But there's the Johnson line that some parts aren't available for? Such as My 96 35hp pile of junk. If you can find a lightly used upgrade outboard sometimes it's money in the bank.

Like aircraft and the FAA, marine engines have to pass USCG specs and conform

to EPA standards. They are also having to step into the 21st century unlike

aircraft engines which are 1940's tech. The new outboards are far more advanced

than motors of just 10 years ago. 2-strokes, for the most part, are gone and the new

4-stroke outboards are EFI and some are even "fly by wire". The only 2-strokes available

today are larger, direct injected and pretty complex but still made to appease the "muh 2-stroke"

crowd.

I just paid 7k for. Repower of my 13ft whaler with a 40hp Yamaha. Best deal I could find

This 100%. Despite what the boat salesman told you when he sold you the boat with a low hp (highest profit margin for him), the boat designer designed the damn thing with the rated hp in mind. No, your boat will not get better fuel mileage with the small one, unless you idle everywhere. You’ll get far better with a large outboard effortlessly pushing it on plane CS the small one struggling.

Mine has twin 115 Yamaha. Typically also sold with twin 150’s. I’m looking at twin Suzuki 200’s if/when I repower. But I’m not in a rush. Snapper season is coming in 2 months and I’m going to fish it the way it is for at least one summer.

I’ve got a 2006 key west 17 With a 90 hp Evinrude E tech. Out of curiosity I stopped at the Evinrude dealer and asked where the new 90 would cost and they said about 13.5 K. I about fell over I only paid 11 for the boat

Bought a new Tracker 19.8' with a Mercury 225 XS Pro.  Took it on a 110 mile trip on Big Horn Lake with 4 adults and a 10 year old
and it got 4.4 mpg.  Supposedly that is really good.  Someone told me that some of the cylinders cut out (it's a v8) at cruising.