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Posted: 3/19/2018 10:31:15 AM EDT
Since all of my original OP is now completely irrelevant, here's where we're at.
Mrs. Puck and I close on a house on five acres, surrounded by about 180 acres of cropland, in mid-June. So this thread is now about everything that I end up doing with it after that |
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Depending on layout, shooting and issues with other neighbors may be a thing as they'll be closer to town...
Before buying either, I'd check into laws on shooting on your property for hunting and plinking. Maybe knock on a few doors and meet the neighbors, ask them a few questions. |
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Like mentioned above, depends on lay out. I looked at a house that was 20 some acres, only 2-4 acres were usable, the rest was literally cliff side mountains.
Im on 10 acres now that is more suitable for my needs (privacy and shooting capability). I bought the property across from me, its only 1/4 acre with excellent shape single wide on it (use for guests). Had I not bought that lil 1/4 property, I could have a nightmare neighbor living within ear shot of my house. So, it really depends. Look at the neighbors on all sides on both pieces of property, you might be getting LESS with MORE acres.. |
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Like mentioned above, depends on lay out. I looked at a house that was 20 some acres, only 2-4 acres were usable, the rest was literally cliff side mountains. View Quote Both are pretty comparable. The one has open pasture, as I mentioned, and is otherwise wooded, while the other is mostly wooded -- about 2.6 acres are clear, but that's including where the house/pole barn sit. |
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Longer shooting lane.
More privacy. Depends on if flat, wooded, grass, hilly, wet lands, etc. |
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Going from 1/4 to 40 is a pretty big difference
Sorry, had to. I'd say closer to town means town will be on top of you someday and that limits your options more. A nice, well built shooting backstop on 7 acres in the woods might be a better place than 14 close to town with open fields all around. On our 40 we tend to maybe 10 of that. The neighbor takes hay from another 10. The rest is woods and it's mostly just there and takes care of itself. The biggest advantage to acreage is, fewer neighbors. If I ever get a chance to scoop up another 40 I'll be all over it. Maybe you could do the same on the smaller place. Might be able to talk someone nearby into parting with some. |
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Going from 1/4 to 40 is a pretty big difference Sorry, had to. I'd say closer to town means town will be on top of you someday and that limits your options more. A nice, well built shooting backstop on 7 acres in the woods might be a better place than 14 close to town with open fields all around. On our 40 we tend to maybe 10 of that. The neighbor takes hay from another 10. The rest is woods and it's mostly just there and takes care of itself. The biggest advantage to acreage is, fewer neighbors. If I ever get a chance to scoop up another 40 I'll be all over it. Maybe you could do the same on the smaller place. Might be able to talk someone nearby into parting with some. View Quote |
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One of the things around here that makes a big difference in RE taxes is Ag exemptions. In my AO if you have 10 acres+
you could have a local farmer plant it to corn, or cut alfalfa on it, and greatly reduce the RE tax on that portion. |
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As others said.. It depends on what you want to do with it.
We have 18 acres where we live and I have 30 in another town. The home lot is for raising a few steers, pigs, chickens etc. The out of town lot is for harvesting 5-6 cords of firewood.. And gathering Balsam fir brush for our Christmas wreath business. There's also some huge pine and spruce I have my eye on.... Close to town means urban sprawl..folks will be on top of you. If you own the vista then no one can buy it.. Good Luck and check out the surveys, mineral rights, deeds, easements etc.. |
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Quoted: That's sort of been my line of thinking. The 13 is currently out of city limits, but that (likely) won't last forever. The smaller place is surrounded by crop land -- the nearest neighbor is half a mile as the crow flies -- and is carved out of a 90 that's currently just in CRP. I'd definitely look to add to it. View Quote But if you want to live and die away from town, it may be better to opt for the smaller property. Remember those exploratory digs! |
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6 acres? View Quote ETA: 20 gives me room for ponds, bees, shooting, garden, maple syrup operation, springhouses, stream, greenhouse.... you don't have to mow the whole operation, mine is probably half woods, and lots of water but you need a good tractor for mowing, and ambition Bordering the state forest adds an additional "buffer" |
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My view has always been if you cant ride dirt bikes and shoot on it then it's just more work might as well stay in the burbs.
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My view has always been if you cant ride dirt bikes and shoot on it then it's just more work might as well stay in the burbs. View Quote Pretty swampy here so no close neighbors. However, there was enough higher ground in a neighboring swamp to make room for a cell phone tower :( It’s not big enough to get a 100 yard range in safely, but I could do a 50. There’s actually zoning limiting the amount of domestic animals you can have. I have to drive 15 miles for another major chain besides fast food. So I’d be better off living in the cities, cutting out the 45 minute one way commute, and buying land in the boonies. What we can have on 5 is a cow or horse, small chickens, small wood lot, big garden, bees, an orchard, maple syrup, no close neighbors. If I had 14 closer to town, and chose a good lot I could have all this multiplied. Anywhere within 30-45 minutes of a major population center will grow. My town is within 30-40 minutes of high paying work and two medium size towns—so growth has been slow, it’s basically a commuter community. Most people move to bigger acreage and simply collect a bunch of junk and make the place look like southern state trash. That’s always an option . |
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You’ll have to decide for yourself what’s most important. Are both lots somewhat regular in shape? There’s 15 acres behind my property but the largest length across is less than 300 feet. I would base my decision off lot shape, usability, and ideas you may have. Some animals would take up more space of course, but if you have no intention of owning animals, an orchard, a pond, large food plots, etc. the extra space may not be necessary.
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I went from five acres with a 35 mile one way congested commute to almost ten acres with a 6 mile no traffic commute ... 350 miles away. First property was wooded, second is wide open. Both back up to larger parcels of private land. First had lots of game, deer, turkeys, second does not diring hunting season because it is so open, but there are lots of other public land places to hunt. First had awesome friendly neighbors. Second has decent people as neighbors, but they stick to themselves. Both have way more than needed to put in a big garden and let the kids run around playing and yelling.
I am really really really glad my commute is minimal. I miss the really friendly neighbors. I like the extra time at home, not creeping along in traffic. I miss hunting in my back yard, but enjoy exploring new areas. |
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You’ll have to decide for yourself what’s most important. Are both lots somewhat regular in shape? There’s 15 acres behind my property but the largest length across is less than 300 feet. I would base my decision off lot shape, usability, and ideas you may have. Some animals would take up more space of course, but if you have no intention of owning animals, an orchard, a pond, large food plots, etc. the extra space may not be necessary. View Quote I'd like to do all of those things at some point, but I don't especially get the impression that an additional six acres right now is enough to accommodate those things. |
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Quoted: The first is pretty much a square, with the exception of the easement out to the road. The second one is a bit of an oddball pentagon-ish sort of shape. I'd like to do all of those things at some point, but I don't especially get the impression that an additional six acres right now is enough to accommodate those things. View Quote We are doing all that on less than 4, and I could put another 1.5 acres into use, but its reserved as a place for kids to play. Its tight, but I'm maximizing every square foot I have to work with. |
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Buy the one with land.
You can make more houses or fix whats there. You cant make more land. |
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Smaller property, further from town.
ALWAYS further from town. (Says Kitties who now has houses all around her) 20 years will go by before you can snap your fingers. Developers are like roaches.Turn the lights out, they're everywhere. And it's illegal to hunt them with NVGs. ETA: I should qualify my reasoning. Okay if the whole property is wooded, and you want to be in woods, the bigger the better. But STILL...the burbs will come to you. For homesteading purposes for MOST people--those who do not want to do hard-core farming--they want a couple of cows. Some bees. A big garden. A place for the kids to run around and see space around them instead of a sea of houses. For a lot of open land, you're going to need a tractor. For seven acres with three open acres, I think you can get by without one. (A tractor is really NICE, and there are some awesome tractor threads here in this forum.) But if you have woods and three clear acres, what you have is enough for a two small cows (if you feed) a few chickens in a run for eggs, a good spot for some beehives, and a really good garden that is big enough that you can manage it but not so big you come to hate it. You will not be self sufficient on either property, so I think it's a matter of narrowing down to the reality of what you ACTUALLY want in your real life, not your fantasy life. ETA2: You will not be even close to self-sufficient without many more acres and many children to provide the back-breaking labor necessary, and if you're willing to be Amish, that's a better way, cuz the community will be your labor force. Of course you have to be THEIRS, too, so that counts. (I think Mrs. Puck would look way cute in one of those Amish bonnets. ) Just sayin. |
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Smaller property, further from town. ALWAYS further from town. (Says Kitties who now has houses all around her) 20 years will go by before you can snap your fingers. Developers are like roaches.Turn the lights out, they're everywhere. And it's illegal to hunt them with NVGs. ETA: I should qualify my reasoning. Okay if the whole property is wooded, and you want to be in woods, the bigger the better. But STILL...the burbs will come to you. For homesteading purposes for MOST people--those who do not want to do hard-core farming--they want a couple of cows. Some bees. A big garden. A place for the kids to run around and see space around them instead of a sea of houses. For a lot of open land, you're going to need a tractor. For seven acres with three open acres, I think you can get by without one. (A tractor is really NICE, and there are some awesome tractor threads here in this forum.) But if you have woods and three clear acres, what you have is enough for a two small cows (if you feed) a few chickens in a run for eggs, a good spot for some beehives, and a really good garden that is big enough that you can manage it but not so big you come to hate it. You will not be self sufficient on either property, so I think it's a matter of narrowing down to the reality of what you ACTUALLY want in your real life, not your fantasy life. ETA2: You will not be even close to self-sufficient without many more acres and many children to provide the back-breaking labor necessary, and if you're willing to be Amish, that's a better way, cuz the community will be your labor force. Of course you have to be THEIRS, too, so that counts. Just sayin. View Quote |
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Smaller property, further from town. ALWAYS further from town. (Says Kitties who now has houses all around her) 20 years will go by before you can snap your fingers. Developers are like roaches.Turn the lights out, they're everywhere. And it's illegal to hunt them with NVGs. ETA: I should qualify my reasoning. Okay if the whole property is wooded, and you want to be in woods, the bigger the better. But STILL...the burbs will come to you. For homesteading purposes for MOST people--those who do not want to do hard-core farming--they want a couple of cows. Some bees. A big garden. A place for the kids to run around and see space around them instead of a sea of houses. For a lot of open land, you're going to need a tractor. For seven acres with three open acres, I think you can get by without one. (A tractor is really NICE, and there are some awesome tractor threads here in this forum.) But if you have woods and three clear acres, what you have is enough for a two small cows (if you feed) a few chickens in a run for eggs, a good spot for some beehives, and a really good garden that is big enough that you can manage it but not so big you come to hate it. You will not be self sufficient on either property, so I think it's a matter of narrowing down to the reality of what you ACTUALLY want in your real life, not your fantasy life. ETA2: You will not be even close to self-sufficient without many more acres and many children to provide the back-breaking labor necessary, and if you're willing to be Amish, that's a better way, cuz the community will be your labor force. Of course you have to be THEIRS, too, so that counts. (I think Mrs. Puck would look way cute in one of those Amish bonnets. ) Just sayin. View Quote I think you nailed what my current goal would be, with your "woods and three clear acres" assessment. While I have a ton of interest, I don't have any background in farming and, though I'd love to have a half-section to myself, wouldn't know where to begin if I just jumped straight into large-scale farming. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, the goal would be to obtain more acreage, but it seems to me that it would be smart to dip my toe into things before going whole-hog. Being self-sufficient would be great, and might even be the long-term goal, but it wouldn't be an immediate reality even if I did have the available land. |
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Oh, and this decision was also partly made on my behalf last night -- the 13 acre property is sold
We're going back to look at the other place tonight after work, so it's a matter now of determining if we want to wait to see what else becomes available or pull the trigger. |
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Oh, and this decision was also partly made on my behalf last night -- the 13 acre property is sold . View Quote |
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BTDT,,,sux when ya get excited about something, but cant wait forever, property / housing market is out of wack, I have no idea if its a sellers market or buyers, it could be determined by locations honestly. Where im at houses sit for a while and most are asking too much.. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Oh, and this decision was also partly made on my behalf last night -- the 13 acre property is sold . I'm not brokenhearted -- we're under no pressure to buy, and there's stuff hitting the market almost every day in the general area we're looking. |
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Don't know what your work situation is like, but around the areas to the north of Redwood Falls, such as the Steward, Brownton, Hecter areas have stupid cheap hobby farms, when they come up. The land is flat, boring, NO LAKES (the only area of MN with no lakes apparently).
Just to say sometimes if you look around those small town, you can get great buying opportunities (not specifically the area I mentioned). The downfall is you HAVE TO drive for anything, and EVERYBODY keeps a good month of food on hand: there are no stores that sell food out there. ETA: One of my wife's hobbies is watching what the real estate market is doing, specifically hobby farms of 5+ acres. They rarely come up, and they sell FAST, and bring good money. 10+ acres is HARD to come by without buying an entire farm, which are usually sold as 2 parcels: homestead (usually 3-5 acres) and the tillable separately. The only ones that seem to stay on the market for a while are the ones with derelict houses. Also, check your county of interest to see if they abide by MN building codes. This is a double edged sword. If they DO, it can be nice in that you can pull up the permits for work done and know work done under permit was inspected. BUT that means you have the man involved in anything you want to do. If they DON'T, whomever can build whatever they want, however they want. This means that work done is done to the quality of whomever did it, but when YOU do something, have fun. Just abide by plumbing/electrical codes and life is good. I happen to live in a county where I have the man involved in anything I do. Though, through building this house, I can't say I've really run into any situations where I really disagree with code much. Most of it is for safety, some things are retarded (like the book on specs for stairs, landings and doors). The energy efficiency requirements are kind of retarded, should be able to build a house how efficient I want. I thought the air exchanger was stupid early on, but now I realize how important managing humidity and air are in these new uber-sealed houses. |
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Quoted: BTDT,,,sux when ya get excited about something, but cant wait forever, property / housing market is out of wack, I have no idea if its a sellers market or buyers, it could be determined by locations honestly. Where im at houses sit for a while and most are asking too much.. View Quote I have no idea where the people are coming from to buy all those houses. And I have no idea what we're going to do with all those people or their kids. We don't have the infrastructure. I don't want this area to crash, but I think we could use an adjustment. |
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Quoted: With 1500 feet of driveway, there's going to be a tractor in my future regardless (and it's a good excuse to buy a tractor) I think you nailed what my current goal would be, with your "woods and three clear acres" assessment. While I have a ton of interest, I don't have any background in farming and, though I'd love to have a half-section to myself, wouldn't know where to begin if I just jumped straight into large-scale farming. Like I mentioned in an earlier post, the goal would be to obtain more acreage, but it seems to me that it would be smart to dip my toe into things before going whole-hog. Being self-sufficient would be great, and might even be the long-term goal, but it wouldn't be an immediate reality even if I did have the available land. View Quote Don't underestimate the cost of maintaining that thing. "Lordy Mercy" as my grandmother would have said, gravel is not cheap, at least here. |
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Quoted: Is your driveway gravel? Don't underestimate the cost of maintaining that thing. "Lordy Mercy" as my grandmother would have said, gravel is not cheap, at least here. View Quote |
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Around here, a quad axle truck load is about $300 delivered for class 5. That gets you about 50 feet of buildup on a driveway (adding a few inches) or a hundred feet as a dressing. I can buy it for half that at the pit, haul it myself (we have big boy toys in which to do so). View Quote |
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Around here, a quad axle truck load is about $300 delivered for class 5. That gets you about 50 feet of buildup on a driveway (adding a few inches) or a hundred feet as a dressing. I can buy it for half that at the pit, haul it myself (we have big boy toys in which to do so). |
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Around here, a quad axle truck load is about $300 delivered for class 5. That gets you about 50 feet of buildup on a driveway (adding a few inches) or a hundred feet as a dressing. I can buy it for half that at the pit, haul it myself (we have big boy toys in which to do so). View Quote If there was money in broken rocks, I would be rich from that place. It's like god plunked down a pile of gravel 300' high, sprinkled a layer of dirt over it, planted some post oaks and pines and called it a day. |
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Quoted: Lucky for me the hillside my driveway comes in on is mostly rock already. Every now and then I have to pour in a truck or two of gravel to build up the ruts but overall the logging road maintains itself. Out entrance is right at 1250 feet from the road. We own the land that makes up the driveway too but not the land it passes through. It runs about $400 per load here, and if I had to really lay it down that would a little uncomfortable to say the least. If there was money in broken rocks, I would be rich from that place. It's like god plunked down a pile of gravel 300' high, sprinkled a layer of dirt over it, planted some post oaks and pines and called it a day. View Quote Gravel here when I bought it last fall was $430 per load. I'm told it's because they can't keep drivers, not because of the actual cost of the rock and crushing it. |
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If you have 7 fully usable acres, if you are willing to buy in some feed (mainly hay for the steers and hog feed), you could comfortably keep 2 steers in rotation (1 every year), all the chickens you want, 2-3 pigs over the summer, and a hell of a garden. We are doing all that on less than 4, and I could put another 1.5 acres into use, but its reserved as a place for kids to play. Its tight, but I'm maximizing every square foot I have to work with. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: The first is pretty much a square, with the exception of the easement out to the road. The second one is a bit of an oddball pentagon-ish sort of shape. I'd like to do all of those things at some point, but I don't especially get the impression that an additional six acres right now is enough to accommodate those things. We are doing all that on less than 4, and I could put another 1.5 acres into use, but its reserved as a place for kids to play. Its tight, but I'm maximizing every square foot I have to work with. |
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Quoted: I'd like to do that with the steers. The previous owners used to raise one every year. I don't know how to get started. View Quote Once you have your full plan figured out, you need to have shelter, pasture (or at least a place for them to get exercise and fresh air) hay source (large round bales are the cheapest way to buy hay, but you need equipment to move them), some grain (IMHO, grass only fed steers taste nasty) which increases when you get close to finishing, and a protein source. Protein can be different cereals or alfalfa. You can also get into sprouting grains, but that is another conversation, and I would NOT start this journey sprouting. I'm only just looking into it, and I've been at this a while. Buy a steer (or bull calf and steer them yourself, its just a rubber band) and start feeding them. Takes about 18mo give or take to get them to a good size to butcher. You by one steer every year to keep in rotation. Keep in mind, you WILL loose steer calves here and there. Any more questions, let me know. |
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We decided to pass on the seven-acre place. The surrounding acreage is part of the inheritance of the son of the current owners, so there's no guarantee that it would theoretically be available even twenty years from now, and after spending some additional time walking around outside, a lot of the property is really wet.
So, the search continues. I think this is now the Puck's Quest for a Homestead thread ETA: Yep, it is. |
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Good luck!
Best advice: be your own realtor. You need to search at least a couple times a week for properties. Be pre approved so you can jump on the opportunity when it comes up, because everybody else is ready to. Foreclosures can also be found, but they don't tend to be pushed by Realtors. I can get the scoop on where to look for them from the Mrs if you like. Foreclosures can provide for great deals if you are willing to invest some money and sweat equity into the property. What is your tractor situation? |
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Good luck! Best advice: be your own realtor. You need to search at least a couple times a week for properties. Be pre approved so you can jump on the opportunity when it comes up, because everybody else is ready to. Foreclosures can also be found, but they don't tend to be pushed by Realtors. I can get the scoop on where to look for them from the Mrs if you like. Foreclosures can provide for great deals if you are willing to invest some money and sweat equity into the property. What is your tractor situation? View Quote My tractor situation is yes, I want a tractor |
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I'd sure appreciate that. My tractor situation is yes, I want a tractor View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Good luck! Best advice: be your own realtor. You need to search at least a couple times a week for properties. Be pre approved so you can jump on the opportunity when it comes up, because everybody else is ready to. Foreclosures can also be found, but they don't tend to be pushed by Realtors. I can get the scoop on where to look for them from the Mrs if you like. Foreclosures can provide for great deals if you are willing to invest some money and sweat equity into the property. What is your tractor situation? My tractor situation is yes, I want a tractor For the tractor, do you want/need a tractor or a skidsteer? |
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Also to say: don't get a foreclosure unless you are willing to buy a tractor/ loader or skidsteer right away. You will need one or the other to get anything done. Not saying either either one has to be huge, look at the little equipment I run. Smaller (cheaper to fix and maintain) equipment just takes smaller bites.
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