There are about 0 consumer protection laws on transmission fluids, gear oils and… anything besides engine oils.

Some states are starting to enforce a little bit here or there. But if you wipe a transmission out because you put a multi vehicle ATF in it that claims to meet the spec.  Welp, you’re not getting your money back in 95% of cases.

First off, the blenders play the game of wording:

1.  They’ll claim it “meets or exceeds” XYZ spec OEM spec.  Which, it could.  Or… it actually doesn’t.    Because there’s no license testing done for it.

2. They’ll just claim its “universal” or “multi vehicle.” Which is also normally, a straight up lie.


Some oems are going to licensed products - Such as Dexron 6 / Mercon Lv / Eaton FE / etc.  

In brand new applications such as the 8-10 speed Ford and GM automatics - they’re factory filled. That’s it. The end basically. The only way to get replacement Ford Mercon ULV / Dexron HP - is buy the Mobil / AC Delco / Ford Mercon ULV product. No one else makes a licensed product for consumer use. End of story. Phillips 66 is the oem producer for Ford Mercon ULV for factory fill. I’m literally one of the largest (top 2 or 3) and I can’t buy it from them.

In gear oils it’s the same way. No real consumer protection. Which means you either have to buy oem or know what you’re buying. Which means reading reviews or knowing the tech specs you’re looking for and then buying aftermarket. Or… ask someone like me.


I recommend redline a lot in this case because it’s worth the extra cost. And they specifically name drop what a product is designed for in terms of application.  As mentioned above - specific manual transmission fluids vs gear oils. And they have white papers as well as in-depth product data sheets.

I’ll look into sometime tomorrow - I’ve never personally had a saw you’ve had to grease. I’m strictly stihl and they’re all grease-less bars. I think Husky is the one you need to.

So I’ll look at the tool and the grease they use.  I’m guessing it’s a semi fluid grease. But it’s 1am and I’m super tired.

Assuming you’re using the right viscosity gear oil with limited slip modifier. It’s hard to fuck up diff gear oils.  Basically one company owns the patent on the additive.  So, if it’s blended right. You’re basically good to go.

Everything I sell has limited slip in it.  You’ll do damage if it doesn’t have limited slip. But you won’t do damage if it has it and is not needed. So it’s worth the 10 cent or so a gallon on the whole sale side of things to have it.

Kitties, your local farm and home type store should have a grease gun that will work for this (TSC link.)  I realize that the $7 County Line isn't real whiz bang fancy, and I'm sure it comes with grease that is not on par with something Foxtrot could specifically spec out, but I don't think I've ever seen anyone wear out the sprocket on the end of a bar before the bar was pretty well junk from other normal wear and tear.  After every few tanks of fuel I tear all the covers off my saw, blow everything out with an airgun and while the chain is off the bar just give it a few pumps.  It's been several weeks, but I think 2 or 3 pumps and I normally see grease splooging out the sprocket.

Looks like Oregon makes a refillable grease tool.  I haven’t found a fitting that you could put in your normal grease gun that is intentionally designed for it.

That being said, there are a thousand different types and sizes of needle greasers.  You could find something that’s probably close enough. Put a zerk fitting on the back of the needle greaser and just hook your grease gun up to it.  Would work well enough I think.


Also it looks like the same Oregon grease just an NLGI 2 lithium grease.  So the JT6 would work great.

Here - Lock'n'Lube makes one that would work.


https://locknlube.com/products/seal-off-grease-adapter?variant=7788694863927¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjw2P-KBhByEiwADBYWCkoIH4dTiuGJc7PO8B12uoJmLbVpG-BN5lmt2i5n78toC-qm7a3n_BoCEPAQAvD_BwE


Note, I don't always use lock'n'lube because it doesn't fit into grease fittings on a lot of equipment I use. It's generally helpful, but in my opinion - it's too long by about 1/2 inch. Needs to be shorter in over all length.

I am looking for a grease that would be good for the wheel bearings on my RZR sxs as well as suspension components on my Jeep both see water and mud would the JT-6 HT #2 be a good fit for me or is there a better option? Would most likely be used on anything with a grease port around here cost is not really a concern do to the low volume I go through in a years time.

Assuming when you say suspension components you mean A Arms, ball joints and such correct? Not actually inside of the shock?

If so yes.

If you’re actually looking for a shock fluid, that’s a different story.

I mean there’s some legitimate reasons to do the meet or exceeds thing. But there’s a lot of games being played with the wording too.

There’s some universal ATFs that say they meet a high viscosity and a low viscosity ATF spec at the same time.

That’s physically… impossible.

I used to have problems with grease guns but after I started hanging them with the hose end down they always work.

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Learned about Mystik from Foxtrot 08

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Bobcat recommends only using their hydraulic fluid of course. There seems to be a lot of difference of opinion on what can or cannot be used in its place. I have been ordering the Bobcat brand fluid but it's rather expensive. I was curious if you had any opinion on the subject.

What piece of bobcat equipment?

I’ll cross reference it and give you some options.

2013 E50 mini excavator. Thanks.

So bobcat gives 0 information about their oil.

From what I found through some digging, in their hydraulic systems they want a ISO 46 with a 150 VI.

So something like the P66 powerflow HE 46 would do it.

They probably want that for the temperature range application.


Doosan, bobcats parent company, uses just a 4000 hour “premium” Iso 46. Which is basically most quality AW46’s which you can find inexpensively at a local oil distributor. Beware of cheap shit at Napa and such. Ask how many hours it’s rated for.

I appreciate your help, as always. I'll have to compare prices and see if there is enough savings to warrant changing. Your vast knowledge has been incredibly helpful to many on here. Thanks for taking the time and putting up with all the questions.

Companies like bobcat, AVS and others spec some pretty exotic hydraulic fluids as a universal fluid. Instead of like CAT and Deere that will spec multiple fluids depending on your regional temperatures. A high VI fluid will have a better cold flow, but hold together better when hot. So it’s easier on the pump.


But if you’re running from 20f to 90f normally (outside temps) you really don’t need anything crazy. If you’re operating below 0f regularly or above 100f normally, we’ll reconsider.

So a follow up to my gl4 and gl5 question:

if I have a case that calls for 66 oz of lubricant and I have 64 oz of the correct stuff.... can I add 2 oz of the off spec stuff and be ok or is even that risky and I should buy another quart for the additional 2 oz?  

Thanks

BTW, @Foxtrot08, are you an Andy S. fan?

Bobcat All-Season Hydraulic Oil is repackaged Mobil DTE 10 Excel 46 (formerly DTE 15M), so yes it's just a high-VI 46 hydraulic fluid.

I thought so because I saw M10 in one of the safety data sheets I saw on it.  And it looked like from the news release I found on it, that it was 150vi.  So technically Powerflow HE. But mega flow HVI would be close enough.


Edit:

I also didn’t want to bother you as I know you’ve been slammed busy for a cross reference. But I think I got close enough.

Normal rule is 3-5% before starting to worry about it.

2oz out of 60 something. No worries at all.


And who is Andy S?

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it very much.

@Foxtrot08

Thanks.  

Andy Stanley.  I believe the quote in your signature is attributable to him:  


Direction, not intention, determines destination.

I think he has a great message. Although personally I’m not super religious, although I think, if people can take benefit away from it - they should.

However, it is an amazing quote that I think people should follow and take to heart.

Kitties, I was cleaning up one of my saws last night and took a pic of the bar grease gun.  3 pumps had it splooging out.
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Millennial farmer uses mystik products.





Anti-shill notice:  Millennial Farmer may be officially sponsored by Mystik sooner than later. Currently, not - but it was a mutual approach - He already used them and Mystik is interested in using MF as a brand ambassador.

While not a grease or homestead lubricant related question.

What would be a good common (found at Walmart) 10W-30 FC-W oil?

Its for a Honda 135HP outboard.  Of course Honda recommends their branded marine oil, but I have to order it online for around $7 a quart shipped.

eta, found this about the Honda branded and other FC-W oils  

https://www.nmma.org/certification/oil/fc-w

FB-44228JHonda Marine 10W-30 Engine Oil
Idemitsu Lubricants America Corporation



Also congrats to the MF for the future sponsor  He has definitely directed enough of sales to them

Honda well priced - which is fortunate, or unfortunate depending on the way you look at it.

Only other recommendation I have is Mystik JT-4  Marine 10w30.  But it's not cheap either at around $6 a quart retail.


The Idemtisu products are really good, so no fear in using them.


In theory, you could use a CK4 10w30 diesel engine oil or 5w30 diesel engine oil. But 1 - The 10w30 (normally) won't be a full synthetic.  2. The CK4 5w30 Full synthetic will be fuck off expensive.

FW-C oils have three main qualifiers:

1.  They use a high ZDDP additive package - normally around 1200 PPM zinc, which puts them in the realm of a HDMO (Diesel) engine oil, in terms of ZDDP.  Which means they're not your off the shelf gas engine oil - which is why they carry the dated SL approval, not a newer SN/SP approval.

2.  They're also formulated for a salt water corrosion resistance, which is not normally found in gasoline engine oils.

3. They're approved by NMMA.

- All these things cost money. Thus making a standard quart more expensive.


In my father's 300 or 350 hp yamaha (I forget to be honest) - that is in the florida keys - we run Redline 10w30.  Does it meet 2 or 3? No.  But it has significantly more ZDDP and detergent then needed. So I'm sure it covers 2 firmly.


So, in my opinion - don't change what's not broken. Honda is a great product.

I’m glad you posted photos as I was concerned about the fact I didn’t know about this lubricant point
I use multiple Husky XP saws but all have Sugihara bars on my saws.  I guess I’m lucky I didn’t lock up a factory bar during a cut. Maybe I should read a manual every now ans then.

I don't think any of my factory Sthil bars have the grease point, but my aftermarket Oregon's do.

Don't know if my question fits this thread but I'll ask anyway:

What is everyone's preference for diesel anti-gelling additive?  

If you can get it:  FT08's branded version.  

I've had a 1/3rd of a reply written for this 3 times and just ran out of time. It's on my radar - it's a bit of a bigger post. Just lack of time right now.

Thanks....

I'm patient.  

Your knowledge and advice is gold and well worth waiting to hear.

Dude, I think you just changed my whole outlook on life.  Before, I was miserable and gloomy about the grease leaking out of my grease guns in my hot workshop.  Now I feel like there is a reason to hope in this world!

So a few things to cover on this topic. Because it’s a complicated topic.


If you’re strictly looking for anti-gel: Pick your favorite brand and go for their winter grade fuel additive. Majority of your major brands are made by 1 company. The additives are formulated by 1-2 companies.

Don’t believe me? All fuel additives have to be registered with the EPA. There is a public list. You’ll notice “Afton” and “Allegheny” as the majority of registrations. People rebrand their products or their raw materials.

Now. There are a two basic technologies in fuel additives.


Your traditional type that binds to the sulfur in the fuel.

And a surfactant type that changes the surface tension in the fuel.  


Your traditional type will probably have a cetane booster (not really needed in today’s fuels), injector cleaner, some lubricity additive for fuel pumps and in cold weather applications - a cold flow improver.

Your surfactant types, will emulsify with water and carry water through the fuel filter for it to be burned off. Literally changing the surface tension of the fuel. Amongst other things.

This is good if you have water contamination.  But tragically expensive.

What most additive companies will never tell you:

How well they work completely depends on what refinery is making the fuel.

We do fuel sampling every year. Right now actually. Because next week we’re switching to our winter additive. So we do testing out of all the terminals to know what to expect.

Some refineries: fuel additive doesn’t do anything. At all. Ergon, Newell WV - doesn’t dewax their fuel. Great, super high cetane fuel in the summer.  Clouds up around 0f in the winter.  Which will plug filters.

Other fuels like Husky out of Bp-Husky Toledo - doesn’t cloud up till -52f.

So knowing the source point for your fuel is very important. Also, it is much better to under treat your fuel, then over treat it - so know you’re treat rate.

Once you hit the x3 treat rate - fuel additive will go backwards. And start gel’ing up faster. Plugging filters.  Etc.

So x2 the treat rate is the max I would ever go, on purpose.


Off the shelf, Power service, Howes, are fine for normal additives.

FPPF is the “big” brand for surfactant based.

Pick your poison.

I don't drive or own any diesel vehicles but holy shit this is information that I never knew and probably would never have known. You're doing God's work.

That’s the very condensed version of this conversation. If anyone wants more details on any topic I can fill the blanks in. But I also don’t want to write a 20 page paper on it.

I know I have a lot of posts. But I really only post about Oil/Oil industry, trucking and farming. That’s it.

I’m not a pro shooter. I’m not former mil. I’m not up on the latest nvg / ar builds / optics / whatever. I’m a guy that shoots guns, a functional idiot, but I know what I know well. And I know what I don’t know, so I know when to listen.

My condensed version is (again) you're doing God's work. Seriously.

And Kitties

And Fox...

in reply to my answer

Amen....

I know what I know and I know what I don't know...

The real expert on fuel chemistry it D_man.

He’s also significantly smarter than I am with oils / cross referencing.


But I’m much better at being an idiot online.

Yes, ditto to A_G. Maybe even saving lives by people using correct grease/lubricants so lower incidence of mechanical failure among other things. I’m not really exaggerating; trailer axles not overheating and/or seizing is a good example just for starters.