If it wasn't for weeds I wouldn't have a lawn. I have no neighbors to impress. When it gets long, I cut it with my riding mower.
There is some sort of crab grass in the front of the house - turns brown in the winter. And a fescue in the back of the house that at one point was planted to feed cattle.

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I’ve heard that you can overseed in the winter, ideally right before a snowstorm. Supposedly the weight of the snow and freeze-thaw action push the seed into the ground, and they sprout in the spring. Legit or no?

I just got done doing an experiment at my house for the past year which was a fescue lawn.  I have no irrigation, and then at another house, we had irrigation.  Both lawns got a Fert & squirt by a local company.  

My yard stayed green until June 1 and then browned out until I overseeded sept 15.  There was a lot of patchy spots too.

The yard that had irrigation only browned out in August for a couple of weeks and then popped back.  

Took pictures of it all so I can show customers.  

I own a franchise of a national irrigation company, not grass, so if you have any questions on that, I can probably point you in the right direction

The best advice I can give is to concentrate on growing grass, versus killing weeds.  This is a really important concept.
Many, many misguided folks are focused on "getting rid of the weeds" by dumping all sorts of esoteric and expensive products on their lawn.

Turfgrass is extremely competitive; given proper growing conditions (soil chemistry, sunlight, water, and some nitrogen), and treated with a modicum of respect, turfgrass will prevent most weeds from growing in the first place.  

In fact, the presence of weeds -- much like a runny nose -- is a sign that something is out of order.  So don't dump chemicals on the weeds, instead help the grass get stronger.  

Yes, some weed types combined with some environmental conditions will put the turfgrass under pressure; there is probably no better example of this than crabgrass.
Crabgrass flourishes in hot, dry weather when turfgrass is drought-stressed.  So for these problem weed types special approaches are required (namely, pre-emergent herbicides).

But in general, if you work to grow strong turfgrass -- and don't do stupid things -- you will have far, far fewer weed problems.

Stupid things include:
-- cutting the grass too short.
-- cutting the grass when the underlying top soil is soft/muddy.
-- cutting the grass when an extended period of high temperatures is expected.
-- fertilizing the grass in the middle of the hot summer.  Fertilizing cool season grass in the middle of the summer is like giving a box of saltines to a dehydrated person.
-- fertilizing the grass too late in the fall.  
-- watering the grass in the early evening.
-- watering too light/too frequently.

Cool season turfgrass recipe...

1. Springtime when the forsythia bloom: dedicated pre-emergent herbicide; examples include TEAM, Halts, Dimension, Pendelum, and Barricade.  IMPORTANT #1: pre-emergents work by interrupting an early aspect of seed germination and/or root development, thereby preventing the weed from growing in the first place.  Pre-emergents DO NOT KILL GREEN WEEDS.  Pre-emergents PREVENT WEEDS.  If you see weeds in your lawn, it's WAY too late for a pre-emergent -- you need a post-emergent herbicide.   IMPORTANT #2: the vast majority of pre-emergent herbicides WILL ALSO PREVENT GRASS SEED FROM GERMINATING.  So, if you are planning on spring seeding (not always the best idea, btw), then do not apply pre-emergent to the areas to be reseeded.  

2. Springtime after the first cut: 24-0-11 slow release fertilizer

3. Springtime about 1 month after the first cut: Spray application, if needed, of a "three way" post-emergent herbicide (such as Trimec).  I know this is new information for folks, but spraying post-emergent herbicide works 87,000 times better than granular post-emergent herbicide application.  At the weed plant, post-emergent herbicide uptake is via the leaves, not via the roots.  Getting granular herbicide to "stick" to the weed leaves is not very effective -- and as a result, most of the granular herbicide falls harmlessly onto the topsoil.  On the other hand, wet spray application delivers the post-emergent herbicide right to the leaves, where it is quickly absorbed and goes right to work.  If you are a lawn DIY'er and don't want to learn/invest in liquid application of post-emergent herbicide, I highly recommend that you engage a professional landscaper solely for this aspect of lawn care.  There are huge cost and performance benefits to wet application, and if you don't want to do it, then pay someone just to do the spraying.  

4. Summertime: Don't do anything.  Pretty much anything you do to the turfgrass except water it is going to cause more harm than good.  So leave it alone, and cut the grass high.  

5. Fall:  24-0-11 slow release fertilizer.  Seed bare areas.  Aerate soil if compacted.  

6. Winter: Don't do anything.

Cutting tips:
-- sharp blades
-- your grass will be greener if you cut in a different direction every time you go to cut the grass.  always cut the grass at a 30 degree angle (etc) compared to the last time you cut it.    don't take my word for it -- that's exactly what the pros do on golf courses, big league football/soccer/baseball fields, etc.

That's pretty much it.  

ar-jedi

ps
REMINDER TO ALL
Turfgrass varietals vary by region.  Do not apply any herbicide you read about on the internet until and unless you understand what turfgrass species you have.  Application of some post-emergents to cool weather turgrass types can maim or kill the grass, and the exact same thing can happen with application of other post-emergents on warm weather turgrass types.  So before trying the "great lawn stuff" that you read about on the internet, you need to understand what kind of grass you have in front of you and whether that "great lawn stuff" you read about is actually compatible with it.  Finally, always remember the secret to a nice lawn: concentrate on growing grass, not on killing weeds.  If you make the soil and water conditions optimal for healthy turfgrass, it will outcompete and crowd out the weeds -- and as a result you will need very little herbicide.

Everyone knows homesteaders only have lawns for one purpose.. to feed their chickens\goats\sheep.  Beyond that, it looks pretty green in the spring\fall. It looks pretty dead in the summer\winter. July to August is known as "dandelion season".
Mow it with the tractor when the weeds start getting out of control.

I responded

If anyone has any ideas let me know.  I’ll work on finding some unbranded stuff to post up, but there is a thing called the irrigation association, that’s a good place to start

WECSOG/Ghetto/Redneck/Improvised DIY Spray Rig...

all the gory details are here:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/Outdoors/Show-me-what-you-used-your-tractor-for-today-pic-thread-/19-681719/?page=9#i11729351

Nice job!

Here is my small spray rig Attached File

Renovation

In some cases, a complete makeover of a section of lawn is needed.   Before you do anything, first consider *why* it may be in the condition it is presently in.  

Not enough water?
Too much water?
Not enough sunlight?
Too much foot traffic?
Poisoned by synthetic issues?  (a common cause of this is runoff from winter time road salting ... the salt ends up in the turfgrass area, and the grass looks like crap or dies)
Poisoned by natural issues?  (example: the droppings from black walnut trees (juglone) does an excellent job of stunting everything growing nearby -- including turfgrass)
Soil chemistry poor?

If you don't correct these issues, the new turfgrass will fail again and you'll be back where you started.


Timing

The very best time to seed cool season turfgrass is the late summer/early fall.  
Spring seeding seems like a good idea, but it comes with a big problem: unless the seedlings get their roots down deep enough, they won't survive the summer.  This typically results in "blotchy" grass.
Seeding in the fall works much, much better simply because it gives ample time for the seedlings to "grow down".
Moreover, the fall weather is simultaneously cooler and wetter.  


Apocalypse Now

Mix generic Glyphosate (Roundup w/o long lasting additives) to label strength.  Apply via spray to area of renovation.  Wait 1-2 weeks.  Reapply to anything still green.   Note: seeding can start immediately.  There is no residual soil action from Glyphosate.  


Preparation

Rake away dead grasses and weeds.  Optimal results can be obtained by spreading a thin (1-2") layer of topsoil in the area of interest.  


Seeding

Apply seed by hand or by using a rental slit seeder.  Do not over-apply the seed.  More is not necessarily better.   Figure out some method of putting the seed in more initimate contact with the topsoil -- pros use a weighted roller, DIY'ers like me run the wide turf tires over the placed seed.   Cover the seed with straw -- lightly!  If you can't see the topsoil, it's too much straw.


Water

There is no way around this: you need to keep the seed/soil moist for at least 2-3 weeks.  This is one of the biggest challenges to reseeding, and yet another reason why the fall season is the preferred timing.  


First Cutting

Ideally, initially cut the newly grown area using a push-style rotary mower, rather than a heavy tractor.


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Overseeded with some Midnight KBG seed a year or so ago. It didn’t come up everywhere, but the patches where it’s the main component are nice. Based off that experience, I would like a higher percentage of that type of fine-bladed, dark KBG in the rest of my lawn.
I do not have the time or money to do a full lawn kill and reset from scratch. In a perfect world I could roundup everything, bring in a couple yards of finely screened compost, level it pool table flat, and reel mow every other day. That’s not going to happen for a while.

I also know irrigation, design and troubleshooting specifically.

note to you northern state "cool season turfgrass" folks: applying fertilizer when the grass is dormant due to cold weather is a waste of money.
dormant grass survives the winter on stored carbohydrates -- which it got from your fall fertilization.  

during cold weather, the dormant grass is not in an operating mode which converts applied NPK fertilizer into growing energy.  
hence, the applied fertilizer will simply dissipate and/or run off with snow melt.  
(the runoff has the side effect of adding NPK to nearby streams and waterways, which in turn increases unwanted algae growth...)

as a general rule of thumb for folks with cool season turfgass, the last date to apply fertilizer will be somewhere around mid-Oct.
it could be somewhat later for warmer areas, and somewhat earlier for colder areas.

also note, you generally don't want to apply "slow release" fertilizer very late in the fall; such products are "buffered" to effectively spoon-feed NPK to the turfgrass over a duration of approx 4 to 10 weeks.
but again, as it gets colder the turfgrass closes up shop, and ultimately it can not make use of the additional NPK which is still being "released".
all of the NPK at the back half of the slow release feature is simply wasted money and instead will just green up the nearby lakes and streams.  

ETA
some states prohibit the application of turfgrass NPK fertilizer after a certain date in the fall, and before a certain date in the spring.
the primary reason for the "blackout period" is the fertilizer runoff / algae bloom problem noted above.
hence you can be fined by the EPA or other AHJ for turfgrass NPK application within the blackout period.

Interesting thread.  I do this work full time and have years of experience doing it in my trade area and this an informative read w/ very good advice .   No real disagreement w/ anything posted but this is more of a Q and A type thread and not a discussion amongst contractors who do this work.    Will gladly offer opinions or comment on turf in my trade area of NE Kansas if asked.

In my area any Nov. fert app is a Urea /Ammonium Sulfate mix that is aimed at improving the alkaline soil as much as feeding soluble N.     Definitely not applied on frozen ground.    The Ammonium Sulfate part has more Sufate sulfur than gypsum.

Gotta start with good seed!

If you are just repairing bare spots and patches and not trying to overseed the whole yard, I have had good success creating plugs.  A cardboard flat with good topsoil and grown indoors in a sunny spot, then cut into plugs.  It takes less seed than overseeding the bare spots, the birds can't scratch and steal your seeds, and seems to grow much faster overall this way.

Obviously wouldn't want to do a large area that way but for patching up a yard works well for me.


I have Bermuda but have had tall fescue and buffalo grass before.  I often miss the buffalo grass, but it has its own issues.  


I also have whole yard subsurface drip irrigation, low water usage and no runoff, but it is nearly impossible to dig a hole for anything and not hit it unless I am really slow and careful.

TLDR;  

Apologize if I missed it.  A lot of concepts can overlap but there should be some type of identifier for questions between warm and cool season grasses.

I have 2 acre mix of centipede, wild bermuda and carpetgrass (Celsius WG helped me determine that )

I'm just a typical homeowner who cares way too much about my grass.  ( at least my wife would say)  

I’m in Texas so Bermuda is what I like in the yard.  Prior homeowner did f’all to keep the yard in order.  I have tons of weeds but my only real nemesis is sticker burrs/grassburrs.  I picked close to 200gallon (as measured by the volume of trash abs I filled up with them) worth by hand last season and finall just gave up and threw down heavy preemeegent before mowing the rest down. None yet but I know they’re coming.  I’d like to sand & seed with more Bermuda but what’s the best approach to get the grass thickened up while keeping the burrs in check?

Ok experts need some help here.
I live near Augusta, GA, zone 8a.
Our front yard is centipede but it's not great. There are alot of bare spots. We have 3 oak trees in the front yard. One of them is huge with a very wide canopy. As you might expect there is hardly any grass under this tree.
If possible, we would like to keep the trees and have a nice looking yard.
I'm pulling soil samples today and will follow the extension agent's recommendations. What type of grass would be good in our situation?
Will it be possible to get grass to grow under the tree's? Any help will be appreciated. Oh, and please talk to me like I'm a 5 y/o, I'm good at gardening but a total dumbass with grass. Thank ya'll much.

I don't know about lawns... but "frost seeding" is definitely a thing for pastures.

The idea is to broadcast the seed on moist soil before an expected freeze.

The seed sits on top of the soil until the freeze.  

The freeze heaves the soil in little clumps - this creates voids the seeds settle in and as the ground thaws and settles back down the seed is effectively sown.

Its success varies on seed type, timing/location, etc.  I use it mainly for legumes/clovers in my sheep pastures.

Frost is a poor man's seed drill.

Emerging lawn nerd checking in. Excited for this season as I just purchased my first reel mower (California Trimmer 7 blade)! Still waiting to scalp and for the grass to come out of winter dormancy and then will be leveling in the spring but can't wait to start reel mowing. Put down a pre-emergent last week and it looks like we have one final freeze to get through then I'll scalp it down super low. Thinking I'll do one scalp at 1" with the rotary and then a second one with the reel at .5" or 3/4" and keep it trimmed at 1" until it's growing well and can be leveled; might do a hoc reset once it's filled in.

My bumpy/uneven front yard, summer of last year. Having to rotary mow tall to avoid scalping

Thank you, yes I do.

OST

Hopefully get some pics up soon to check out.  Just bought a house this past November and yard is rough

Here’s my situation.

I have a large city yard.  I have 2 German shepherds. They run nonstop and have succeeded in fucking my yard up.
Easily 2/3 of my grass is gone and now only dirt remains.

I have gotten the wife on board and she agrees to keep the dogs inside for a few weeks (except for bathroom breaks) while the grass seed grows. Previously she would leave them out for hours at a time.
The dogs are one part of the issue. The ground slopes towards the back of my property and the storm drain is back there.  I have added dirt to a lot of places. Whenever I level up one section of yadd, the water seems to find another place to collect.

What else can I do to protect my grass that I put down?  Straw?  Any specific type of seed to use?  I’m in SE MI if the region helps.

In the past I fenced off half the yard and got grass growing and then flipped it and seeded the other half. It was a pain in my ass and we had a nice lawn for maybe a month before winter hit.

I have a single German Shepherd and have given up keeping my backyard as nice looking as my front. He has dug a few shallow holes and turned grass to dirt along a few trails he's made when running to/from the backdoor and other areas where he chases squirrels along the fence or by the trees. The added benefit is when he runs he digs his claws into the ground, aerating and verticutting it for me

What sort of grass do you have? If you have an established grass already I'd just go with that and seed/sod it and temp fence it off while the roots take hold. Some grasses are more favorable to heavy traffic than others so it may be futile but might be worth trying.

No clue what grass I have.  It’s that fucked up.
Two years ago I just used a contractor blend and fenced off half the yard while it grew.

If you can find a small patch of grass you can take a sample to a local turf/sod place and they should be able to ID it for you. I'm no expert by any means and only have experience with St. Aug and Bermuda.


Got my cali trimmer reel mower in on Friday and scalped the front/back yards. First took it down to 1.25" then did the reel in the front only and took that down to 3/4". Between the front and back I filled up about 16 lawn bags and my one 96-gallon yard bin in clippings alone. Naturally it was windy those days so that was fun. Also cleaned out the flower beds, put down some rubber mulch and planted some flowers in the pots so hopefully I'll have a good looking yard this year.

Post-scalp pic of the front after I took it down to 3/4". Can't wait to get this thing levelled and for it to start greening up.

Great thread, hope you are doing good

We are fixing to start from bare dirt in a couple months, perfect time to start...summer

We got about 1-1/2 acres to do.

We have had field grass for 23 years, when it got 3 ft tall we mowed, dried and baled

We have lots to research for sure, about as far NE TN you can get, 1 hr from everywhere, 2750' 1st frost is 1st week of Nov, then snow, rain, 70+* or -10* and snow until April...

Whatcha recommend

A bulldozer

We are going to start next week, gotta cut about 8ft off and level off so we can place our module home on. Soil has been perfect for tobacco,  potatoes etc..

We are atleast 4 months out, we need to run, water,electric, septic tank, drain field etc.

So we will hopefully have good soil on everything.

After dozer work, how can I test samples or is that something I need to send off? I can test goat and Alpaca poop for parasites and I got the hottub testing down but I can't build a rocketship

But I can build parts for said ship.

I will post a few pics later, grade will be very mellow

Assuming you mean test soil samples? Local extension office or university should be able to do it for ya easily and fairly cheaply. I'd stay away from the consumer "soil test kits" though I've heard good things about Waypoint Analytical.