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Posted: 2/9/2018 1:00:36 AM EDT
I am trying to find a good gas log splitter - any suggestion?
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[#2]
Lowe's
Northern Tool Local auctions Local folks moving, (how we picked ours up for $350 and scored a trailer load of firewood). Semper Fi |
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[#3]
Going on about year 10 or 11 on one of the red ones from Lowes that has the Honda engine. Was about $1,100. IIRC. Did it on a six month same as cash deal back when I financed stuff.
I always use treated gas and when we are done for more than a day, I use the fuel shutoff to kill the engine. Other than having to get a tube put in one of the tires, it's worked flawlessly. We don't cut a lot of firewood, but it splits a few cords every year. |
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[#4]
Horizontal and vertical or just horizontal? Vertical is easier to use!
How much will you be using it? Display fireplace once a month or primary heat source for an old drafty home? What dollar range are you looking to spend? $0.-$500. -- $500.-$1000. -- $1000.-$2000. If you have a low dollar range, search and search and search some more until you find one in that range. Are you able to repair engines and hydraulics? You may find one that needs repair real cheap. Looking for new low dollar unit? Just keep searching. Unlimited budget? Why even ask? I suggest hearth.com for great information on heating with wood. Bill |
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[#5]
In my area, Home Depot is selling a Champion splitter that looks pretty well made.
If I had a wood splitter, I'd convert it to propane and never have bad fuel. Since I don't burn much wood, I split by hand. |
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[#6]
What kind of wood are you splitting? I just used a 22ton to split a cord of oak and it just barely handled some of the older stuff. Get the biggest, baddest one you can afford. You can not hand split oak. It will laugh in your face.
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[#7]
In my area I generally use Home Depot first before Lowes.
When I decided to get one I was disappointed with the stuff HD had. Picked up a Dirty Hands brand from Lowes and have been very happy with it. Only brand I saw that had a good Kohler engine. |
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[#8]
I'm looking in the $1000 range. I probably can't do much more than that.
I will be splitting oak mostly...lots and lots of oak. I have about 13 trees remaining that overhang/are too close to my house that need to go. I have already cut down 5 trees and hand splitting those logs was enough to convince me that I need a better way. I'm looking at Lowes, but I don't want to spend all that money to get something that will only last a year or two.i have two wood stoves and a fireplace to feed |
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[#9]
Quoted:
What kind of wood are you splitting? I just used a 22ton to split a cord of oak and it just barely handled some of the older stuff. Get the biggest, baddest one you can afford. You can not hand split oak. It will laugh in your face. View Quote The wood I'm burning right now is all red oak, a little white oak, some hickory, and a small amount of maple. All split by hand with no issues. Well, the hickory was cut and allowed to dry for awhile and then I split it by hand. |
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[#10]
Quoted:
I'm looking in the $1000 range. I probably can't do much more than that. I will be splitting oak mostly...lots and lots of oak. I have about 13 trees remaining that overhang/are too close to my house that need to go. I have already cut down 5 trees and hand splitting those logs was enough to convince me that I need a better way. I'm looking at Lowes, but I don't want to spend all that money to get something that will only last a year or two.i have two wood stoves and a fireplace to feed View Quote |
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[#11]
I have an old splitter that was gifted to me by a neighbor that I helped make firewood for years. I actually use it for about 2 days a year and it sits the rest of the year. If I didn't have it I would rent one for a weekend when you are ready to split the wood you have piled up and get some help to get it done if necessary.
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[#12]
Have the 16# Monster Maul my Dad bought in the 70s. Only split 2 cords or so a year these days.
And get my sons to do most of it. |
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[#13]
Quoted:
Going on about year 10 or 11 on one of the red ones from Lowes that has the Honda engine. Was about $1,100. IIRC. Did it on a six month same as cash deal back when I financed stuff. I always use treated gas and when we are done for more than a day, I use the fuel shutoff to kill the engine. Other than having to get a tube put in one of the tires, it's worked flawlessly. We don't cut a lot of firewood, but it splits a few cords every year. View Quote |
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[#14]
I bought a DR electric. My neighbor had a gas one and really liked it. I was impressed with how fast it split wood. I don't care much for small gas motors. I ran out of time to split my pile of firewood before winter set in. With the DR I can split in the garage. We have a little Spruce, but mostly split Birch. The DR is pretty fast. I really like mine. Opt. table is required!
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[#15]
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[#16]
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[#17]
Quoted:
Look into conversion kits for your existing engine. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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[#18]
Wont be in your budget new, but look for a used super split.
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[#19]
The thing new people always forget is that you are cutting and splitting wood now for NEXT YEAR'S fires at the earliest.
I can't tell you how many people have complained that their firewood "smoked a lot and no heat." When you ask "How long ago did you cut it?" The answer is always "a few months ago." Cut it, split it, stack it and let it dry for AT LEAST a year, preferably several. Put it up off the ground on pallets and COVERED. The stacks you see sitting out with snow on them won't burn worth a crap compared to that under sheds. So this is truly not an "immediate gratification" deal- you really have to plan ahead with firewood. |
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[#20]
Quoted:
The thing new people always forget is that you are cutting and splitting wood now for NEXT YEAR'S fires at the earliest. I can't tell you how many people have complained that their firewood "smoked a lot and no heat." When you ask "How long ago did you cut it?" The answer is always "a few months ago." Cut it, split it, stack it and let it dry for AT LEAST a year, preferably several. Put it up off the ground on pallets and COVERED. The stacks you see sitting out with snow on them won't burn worth a crap compared to that under sheds. So this is truly not an "immediate gratification" deal- you really have to plan ahead with firewood. View Quote Been a heck of a winter so far: Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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[#21]
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[#22]
Know what you mean. We have three stoves in the house- A Vermont Bunbaker next to the kitchen area. This is a 750 with the Soapstone. We can cook food on it as well as bake in it as well. Then a Waterford Erin in the living room and a Waterford Leprechaun in our bedroom.
Maybe it's our humid climate but six months doesn't seem to dry it well enough under a shed down here. We have a couple of wood sheds and usually keep about 3-4 years of wood on hand. So most of the wood we burn is a couple years old when it actually goes in the fire. Have not turned on our electric heat in probably 5 years, and then it was getting home from a trip one night at 12pm with no time to get fires warming the house up. I hate electric heat, it dries you out and makes you feel like shiiite. 90% of what we burn comes from deadfall type stuff or trimming near property lines, clearing site lines, etc. Probably close to half of what we normally burn is pine. Dried long enough it burns fine. |
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[#23]
One little tip that folks might find handy is to measure the inside of your wood box. Then make a corresponding length (maybe slightly shorter) mark with a permanent marker or with spray paint on the bar of your chainsaw.
This helps with not cutting wood too long when cutting in the field. Early on, I cut wood too long a LOT. And at first, before we built our addition, we were running just one stove. So if it didn't fit in that stove it could really just be used for outside fires and cooking. Now I cut based on the smallest woodbox we have- the Bunbaker. If it ends up too long and doesn't fit in there, it will 99% of the time fit in one of the other stoves. Also the biggest PITA in wood processing is HANDLING it. Try to make your work as efficient as possible so your not handling the wood more than you need to. Ideally this would be for example splitting your wood right next to a woodshed, with someone picking up the split pieces and immediately stacking them. One time we had a bulldozer near where we were cutting and we gripped and lifted up the long logs with the bucket and each of us worked off the ends cutting. The kids pulled the splitter over to the rounds, split them there and tossed them into a truck sitting right next to the splitter. That saved a little bit of handling also. |
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[#24]
Talked to a woodstove shop about glass wood stove doors. We had a beautiful etching on our old stove and was trying to find something nice on our new stove; no luck, so have a plain glass door. She said they replace a lot of glass doors because folks cut their wood just a bit too long and then try to force the door closed...crack.
I usually have a measuring stick marked at 16" and mark my log with a logging crayon using what ever color shows up best, I keep white, red, orange, and yellow on hand. My stove will take 18", but sometimes my 16" mark grows to a 17"+ piece of firewood. If I don't have a stick I just run a tape measure (part of my cutting kit) and mark every 16". I've been meaning to mark my splitter at 17" or so to be sure the wood will fit in the stove as a final check. For now I just keep a tape handy and measure any piece that looks long. Every now and then I find one that has grown since being cut. |
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[#25]
Great information, however the question is about a woodsplitter.
Any suggestions there may assist the OP. |
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[#26]
Quoted:
Great information, however the question is about a woodsplitter. Any suggestions there may assist the OP. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Great information, however the question is about a woodsplitter. Any suggestions there may assist the OP. Quoted:
Quoted:
Going on about year 10 or 11 on one of the red ones from Lowes that has the Honda engine. Was about $1,100. IIRC. Did it on a six month same as cash deal back when I financed stuff. I always use treated gas and when we are done for more than a day, I use the fuel shutoff to kill the engine. Other than having to get a tube put in one of the tires, it's worked flawlessly. We don't cut a lot of firewood, but it splits a few cords every year. Attached File Attached File Boy that Rancher and splitter used to look so shiny when they were new! Just for the heck of it I grabbed a link, and I didn't think I paid much over 1K for it, but apparently they have gone up in price... Not only that they don't have a Honda engine on them anymore... Probably doesn't really matter because most of the small engine stuff on things like this all come from the same parts factory in China. Coming in at 2K before taxes is well above OP budget. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Troy-Bilt-33-Ton-Gas-Log-Splitter/1000210285 |
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[#27]
Believe that is the same model we have. It's very solid and has been a worthwhile investment.
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[#28]
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[#29]
I have a 5 ton electric that does 90 percent of what I need. Maybe once a year I rent a bigger one. Now I am very selective on the wood I harvest. Mostly standing dead wood on my land.
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[#30]
Does op have a tractor or skid steer?
You can buy a 3 point or skidsteer mount one cheaper since there is no $1000 engine on it. |
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[#31]
Quoted:
I have a 5 ton electric that does 90 percent of what I need. Maybe once a year I rent a bigger one. Now I am very selective on the wood I harvest. Mostly standing dead wood on my land. View Quote After 6 years you have paid for a decent splitter. However, with renting them you have no storage issues to concern yourself about. Bill |
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[#32]
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[#33]
I recently picked up the Tractor Supply brand - Country Line 25 ton, splits both up/down and sideways. $999 + I got the extended warranty for like $229 for 4 years that covers most everything. It has a Kohler gas engine. Had good reviews online.
I was prepared to be underwhelmed but have been VERY impressed and I'm definitely not easily impressed. This thing starts smoothly, runs great, sips the gas, and it goes through big oak logs like butter. I mean it doesn't even slow down. The big pieces I used it up and down, the smaller ones I do standing up left/right. The design has been well thought out. It has a little plastic tube built on to hold the manual. It has an easy flip up or down mechanism. It has a cool retractable arm that locks in place nicely. 1 person can move it, where the 30 ton just was built a lot heavier and I'm not sure I could move it alone easily. I really have been impressed. I gave that one to my FIL and he's run it also. I'll get me another of the same. |
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[#34]
Quoted:
$1,000.00 Engine?!?! Wow what engines are you running? Bill View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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[#35]
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[#36]
Quoted:
Dang! That's what I gave for my used 22 ton splitter, it's not pretty but it gets the job done. Semper Fi View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Around here, rental goes for about $300. to $350. per day. Bill That's what I gave for my used 22 ton splitter, it's not pretty but it gets the job done. Semper Fi Hell, I'd buy it even if it was dead! I could rebuild any part of it. Bill |
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[#37]
$300 to 350 per day to rent a splitter seems high, are you sure that is correct?
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[#38]
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[#39]
I picked up a 25 ton splitter at Tractor Supply for $799+tax on sale late Summer 2017. It split several cords of pine, aspen and oak with no drama.
I'm burning that wood now, as here in the very dry Colorado high country, wood cures quickly. |
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[#40]
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[#42]
Quoted: Same here, I did the same thing about a decade ago. Mine is a Troy Bilt with a Honda engine. I keep it covered and change the oil every year. I try not to let it sit for more than a few months without running it. We heat with wood for most of the winter so it gets a few work outs every season. View Quote |
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[#44]
Another timely Arfcom splitter thread: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/log-splitter-thread-/5-2079976/
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[#45]
I would personally hold out for a Honda engine and as much tonnage as you can afford.
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[#47]
Quoted:
Sounds like TSC improved on the Huskee/Speeco version of their 22 ton splitter; which was pretty much the gold standard for the best splitter for it's price. I've had my Huskee/Speeco 22 ton for +4 years now, paid $500 for it at the same auction where I got my house, land and tractor. It's split everything I've been able to throw at it: Hickory (one of the worst), Sweet Gum, Black Gum, White and Red Oak, Poplar (easy), Hackberry, Black Cherry and Pine (super easy). As Lowdown said, you need to be thinking ahead for burning firewood cleanly and efficiently for home heat; sometimes years ahead. The firewood I'm processing now won't be needed until some time in 2022 or 2023. That's good because most of it is White Oak and Hickory, firewood notorious for taking up to +3 years to dry and season well. People who burn wet wood suck; don't burn wet wood. Pics of my Huskee/Speeco splitter that's been modifed to increase the height of the splitter wedge (and sharpen the edge) and increase the size of the anvil: https://i.imgur.com/qqlNWaq.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YPZghGH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jf9ANe4.jpg View Quote Ethical self-disclosure requires me to tell you that I finally found two pieces of wood that my modified Huskee/Speeco 22 ton splitter could not split! Both were 2'x4' or so sized rounds that were cut on either side of a crotch. I was able to finally split one of them after noodling (cutting against the grain with a chainsaw) right down the crotch about 6". I haven't bothered with the other since I can't lift nor easily move it without my son. Worse, the 2nd crotch severely bent my wedge base plate. See the wedge base plate in the last pic above and how flat it is? It now has a +1/2" gap between the bottom of the plate and the splitter beam. After the season is over, I'll have to take it to a welding or machine shop with a +50 ton press and bend it back straight again. |
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