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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:16:42 PM EDT
[#1]
Maybe because they are cheap? Never owned one, but my cousin does and likes it.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:20:50 PM EDT
[#2]
The high carbon content?
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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:27:11 PM EDT
[#3]
Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:30:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Inexpensive, wickedly sharp out of the gate, regularly on sale at Amazon, GD hive mind sale FOMO.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 8:31:31 PM EDT
[#5]
They're cheap and durable. Ive used one at work for a few years now as a "side cutting chisel" and routinely hit the spine with a 21oz framing hammer. I get about a year out of them before they finally break. No qualms about abusing one because of the price, and at $1/mo they're decent tools well worth the money.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 9:49:38 PM EDT
[#6]
I always liked them as there are no hot spots on the handle (for me) so you can use one for quite a long time and not get blisters, etc. Plus they were reasonably priced and held a good edge. A very usable blade shape and serviceable sheath. I've since given the 3 or so that I had away but may pick up another sometime soon as they are great to have in a backpack or BOB.
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Posted: 7/22/2020 9:53:45 PM EDT
[#7]
Inexpensive. Lesser knives for twice the price?
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Posted: 7/23/2020 12:53:53 AM EDT
[#8]
Their simplicity makes them so good. They are no frills knives that have good steel and come with a decent enough sheath and a blade profile that doesn't take any nuance to get sharp.
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Posted: 7/23/2020 8:20:28 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Their simplicity makes them so good. They are no frills knives that have good steel and come with a decent enough sheath and a blade profile that doesn't take any nuance to get sharp. All that for the price^ I use them as my primary butchering weapons because I can have five or six sharpened up on the table which gets me through about 20 chickens, a whole hog, or a couple deer without having to stop and clean up just to sharpen knives. Then spray them with the hose and they're clean, soap and water without a lot of scrubbing to get in a million unnecessary cracks/crevices. Are they the best possible knife? Nope. Are they a very high quality knife and tool? Yep. |
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Posted: 7/23/2020 12:00:19 PM EDT
[#10]
Cause even us poors can afford to have a few stashed here and there and they don't weigh much.
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Posted: 7/24/2020 12:18:46 AM EDT
[#11]
They are good cutting knives, have decent steel, and are cheap.
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Posted: 7/24/2020 10:32:45 AM EDT
[#12]
Cheap, decent steel, and the scandi grind is ok for people who don't know how to sharpen. I have a couple here and there. I use a 511 for field dressing because its decent enough for the job, has a blaze orange handle so I don't lose it, and is cheap enough that I dont really care about it. I would much rather have a higher grind, but at $11 for a semi disposable it works. I've been exploring using a vic parring knife instead for the field dressing and liking it a lot. It cuts better, is cheaper, and weighs less. I would be 100% sold it it had a little integrated plastic finger guard.
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Posted: 7/24/2020 10:57:52 AM EDT
[#13]
They get cheap around the holidays. They are made of high quality Sandvik steel. The blades are very stout.
I have one in every truck. Amazon I prefer the 5.8" length, but the shorter ones work well. |
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Posted: 7/24/2020 11:00:51 AM EDT
[#14]
Sharp
Cheap, Easy to sharpen Handles well |
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Posted: 7/24/2020 1:41:25 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world. How are they over-rated? I do think some of their new models that are full-tang and almost as expensive as a comparable ESEE are slightly over-rated for their value, but the inexpensive versions have a pretty solid, world-wide, track record of performance and excellent value. I've said before that the Swedish Ranger School issues the Mora 2000 knife to their students. I worked with one of the Swedes who is an instructor at that school. He personally doesn't like the looks, but said they've abused the hell out of them and they just keep asking for more. The only criticism for general purpose work is the Scand-grind. It excels working with wood and food prep, but unless you have a good flat sharpener, it's a PITA to keep sharp in the field for long-term use (the Mora 2000 blade is a little more conventional and not as acute as the typical Scandi-grind). I've always loved the simple Mora 510 (basically a 511 without the finger guard). A great backup blade in the bottom of all my packs. While their stainless is okay, I still prefer the carbon steel versions as they sharpen much easier for me despite needing a little more attention with maintenance. I've forced a patina on several and they do much better against surface rust. More like "over-used" as opposed to over-rated. If the basic models cost 5x as much, I would completely agree... ROCK6 |
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Posted: 7/24/2020 1:49:36 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sharp Cheap, Easy to sharpen Handles well Pretty much sums it up. I have a couple. One stays in the truck and another with my camping gear. I like to file the spine a bit to make the edges nice and square so it works a bit better on the ferro rod. I also hit it with a bit of cold blue to minimize the rust/corrosion without adding a coating that might chip off. |
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Posted: 7/24/2020 2:02:59 PM EDT
[#17]
All of the above. And if you lose one you hardly care.
I've got a bunch of 'em and use them almost daily. |
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Posted: 7/24/2020 2:34:48 PM EDT
[#18]
Light
Strong Cheap Excellent at wood carving Excellent feather stick potential for firestarting Ergonomic Engineered for arctic conditions with a very wide air space around the blade in the factory sheath. If wet and frozen that airspace will not freeze the knife into a sheath like a close fitting kydex sheath. Consistent high quality While they are good they should be looked at as a moderately strong knife. Since most aren’t full tang you have to be careful about forcing it if it is a single item to be depended on. The Scandinavians have perfected this design for many years. The design is sound. The design came from what worked primarily in arctic conditions. Carving wood was a large task of that. Carving items like snow shoes, fine traps such as dead falls, specific notches. They prevail nowadays mainly because of cost, ergonomics, light weight and it seems like everyone has one which in some way perpetuates it even more. The tip in my opinion is too sharp and breaks easily. Reshaping the tip into a drop point makes it more durable if you use the stab split technique for making tinder and kindling. I change that as well as make the spine sharp to scrape a ferro rod and scrape powder shavings off of wood. Very useful tool but only if you have a lot of knowledge and imagination. |
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Posted: 7/25/2020 4:54:37 PM EDT
[#19]
I have 18 or so mora knives by now. One or two might even be the newer spiffy ones when found on sale.
However a dozen were the cheapest ones long ago. Especially for someone just learning to care for a knife they rock. You will learn to keep rust off the blade by taking care of it. The thing takes an awesome edge if you do your part. Much as many a boy scout got a swiss army knife or even a webelo got a swiss army knife, the mora rocks for learning and is not a big cost if damaged or lost. For those who want a sharpened pry bar, buy cold steel tantos. I got some. I call em a sharpened pry bar. If looking at paying 20 bucks or more for a mora, look at what compares in that price range. If at $8 or less out the door I like a mora unless something else more expensive is on clearance at similar price. I bought some winchester branded made in china stainless steel knives a couple decades ago at wally world. They are smaller than anything I saw recently. Were $5 each maybe. I bought several and wish I bought more. Nylon sheath. Take a good edge. Wood grips and full tang. Anyway, mora has its place but you need to watch and learn in my opinion. Lot of us middle aged and older folks may have started off with some rambo knives. Using one of those in the kitchen sucked. A mora is a good all purpose knife for someone to use and learn on, and at the same time it does not handicap the experienced person by much. It is not a pry bar. It is not a step. It is a piece of steel that can take and hold a decent edge. If you want to make a handle or sheath for it, then it is perfect for stuff like that because you don't have much in it to begin with. |
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Posted: 7/30/2020 10:29:37 PM EDT
[#20]
They are not made in china..... Huge plus.
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Posted: 7/31/2020 7:01:15 AM EDT
[#21]
Price to quality. They are cheap enough to actually use. I keep them in the garage and shed. Tried to kill one, really tried for about 3 years. Lost it.
Replaced yesterday. I have nicer knives but can’t argue the value in a mora  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/31/2020 8:02:10 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world. How can a $10.00 knife not made by the CCP be over rated????? |
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Posted: 7/31/2020 8:18:25 AM EDT
[#23]
Simplicity.
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Posted: 7/31/2020 3:31:19 PM EDT
[#24]
You can buy cheap, and stack deep. Great, disposable knives; Im not afraid to do things with them that I wouldn't dare use a more expensive knive for.
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Posted: 8/3/2020 5:45:26 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world. The expensive ones are over rated. The cheap basic knives like the 511 are awesome. Hard to find a better value than that knife for about 8-10 bucks. |
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Posted: 8/3/2020 6:58:11 PM EDT
[#26]
Well for one thing they aren't made by the fucking chinese, that alone makes them good.
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Posted: 8/3/2020 7:34:38 PM EDT
[#27]
I bought one a long time ago, should have bought a bunch because they've crept up in price.
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Posted: 8/4/2020 8:20:16 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world.  laugh harder Dude, that is amazingly dumb. They are tough as hell, cheap as hell, and they work. |
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Posted: 8/4/2020 9:42:45 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted: Inquiring mines and all that. Mora knives- what makes them so bad? Inquiring mines and all that. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 11:14:28 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How are they over-rated? I do think some of their new models that are full-tang and almost as expensive as a comparable ESEE are slightly over-rated for their value, but the inexpensive versions have a pretty solid, world-wide, track record of performance and excellent value. I've said before that the Swedish Ranger School issues the Mora 2000 knife to their students. I worked with one of the Swedes who is an instructor at that school. He personally doesn't like the looks, but said they've abused the hell out of them and they just keep asking for more. The only criticism for general purpose work is the Scand-grind. It excels working with wood and food prep, but unless you have a good flat sharpener, it's a PITA to keep sharp in the field for long-term use (the Mora 2000 blade is a little more conventional and not as acute as the typical Scandi-grind). I've always loved the simple Mora 510 (basically a 511 without the finger guard). A great backup blade in the bottom of all my packs. While their stainless is okay, I still prefer the carbon steel versions as they sharpen much easier for me despite needing a little more attention with maintenance. I've forced a patina on several and they do much better against surface rust. More like "over-used" as opposed to over-rated. If the basic models cost 5x as much, I would completely agree... ROCK6 Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world. How are they over-rated? I do think some of their new models that are full-tang and almost as expensive as a comparable ESEE are slightly over-rated for their value, but the inexpensive versions have a pretty solid, world-wide, track record of performance and excellent value. I've said before that the Swedish Ranger School issues the Mora 2000 knife to their students. I worked with one of the Swedes who is an instructor at that school. He personally doesn't like the looks, but said they've abused the hell out of them and they just keep asking for more. The only criticism for general purpose work is the Scand-grind. It excels working with wood and food prep, but unless you have a good flat sharpener, it's a PITA to keep sharp in the field for long-term use (the Mora 2000 blade is a little more conventional and not as acute as the typical Scandi-grind). I've always loved the simple Mora 510 (basically a 511 without the finger guard). A great backup blade in the bottom of all my packs. While their stainless is okay, I still prefer the carbon steel versions as they sharpen much easier for me despite needing a little more attention with maintenance. I've forced a patina on several and they do much better against surface rust. More like "over-used" as opposed to over-rated. If the basic models cost 5x as much, I would completely agree... ROCK6 @ROCK6 what do you like for sharpening moras? |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 5:37:15 PM EDT
[#31]
I find my Spiderco Sharpmaker to work very well on my Moras.
Probably not the exact correct angle however it returns them to shaving sharp in short order and I have not seen any really negative side effects. |
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Posted: 8/10/2020 5:45:42 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @ROCK6 what do you like for sharpening moras? At home, Japanese water stones. In the field, the fallkniven DC4 ceramic stone. A micro secondary bevel is good for harder use than just soft wood. |
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Posted: 8/16/2020 1:49:57 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good knife but the most over rated thing in the world. They are a great cheap knife that is not made in China but they are more of a stepping stone knife / intro knife. Full tang knives made of 1095 is the best route to go and there are several really good ones. |
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Posted: 8/24/2020 10:16:34 PM EDT
[#34]
You can get a Mora 511 for $10. Pick one up. It'll answer your question.
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Posted: 8/26/2020 8:17:10 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They get cheap around the holidays. They are made of high quality Sandvik steel. The blades are very stout. Quote HistoryQuoted: They get cheap around the holidays. They are made of high quality Sandvik steel. The blades are very stout. Quoted: Well for one thing they aren't made by the fucking chinese, that alone makes them good. That's correct. The Mora's Sandvik steel is excellent and very durable over time under hard field use. Excellent price-point for the quality. Knowing also that it's NOT a cheapo Chi-Com product is value-added right there. 
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Posted: 9/4/2020 12:06:41 PM EDT
[#36]
You go out to do some work in the yard or hike in the woods and grab a Mora.
IF you snap the tip or nick the blade, it's not a tragedy. Being Norsk, we've used them for decades with great success. |
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Posted: 9/5/2020 12:43:27 AM EDT
[#37]
What most everyone else has said, they're a great value for a basic tool that will do most of what you realistically want or need a knife to do. If I want to play bushcrafter I've got larger knives.
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Posted: 9/9/2020 8:36:35 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: At home, Japanese water stones. In the field, the fallkniven DC4 ceramic stone. A micro secondary bevel is good for harder use than just soft wood. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @ROCK6 what do you like for sharpening moras? At home, Japanese water stones. In the field, the fallkniven DC4 ceramic stone. A micro secondary bevel is good for harder use than just soft wood. I use a masahiro wet stone. |
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Posted: 9/15/2020 3:20:36 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: At home, Japanese water stones. In the field, the fallkniven DC4 ceramic stone. A micro secondary bevel is good for harder use than just soft wood. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @ROCK6 what do you like for sharpening moras? At home, Japanese water stones. In the field, the fallkniven DC4 ceramic stone. A micro secondary bevel is good for harder use than just soft wood. I did extensive testing with zero grind scandi with a truly flat bevel all the way to the apex. They didn't hold up well at all. Usually rolling within a few cuts. A few strokes per side on fine diamond and white ceramic yielding a 0.005" or less micro-bevel at a higher angle gave huge benefits with zero difference in cutting forces. I won't link to my threads on bushcraftusa. |
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Posted: 9/16/2020 3:28:53 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I did extensive testing with zero grind scandi with a truly flat bevel all the way to the apex. They didn't hold up well at all. Usually rolling within a few cuts. A few strokes per side on fine diamond and white ceramic yielding a 0.005" or less micro-bevel at a higher angle gave huge benefits with zero difference in cutting forces. I won't link to my threads on bushcraftusa. Well, I prefer a full convex grind, so there is that as well  I agree though, I can get a good zero-grind on a large bench stone, but I typically run it on a ceramic rod for a micro bevel. I have a beautiful zero-grind custom from Charlie May, it chipped pretty bad. Part of that was likely heat-treatment, but that's why I don't consider scandi-grinds as the best general purpose utility edge. They work great on most woods, food prep, small game/fish cleaning etc., but if I was going to go with a scandi, I would put a micro-bevel on it without hesitation.ROCK6 |
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Posted: 10/9/2020 11:05:21 AM EDT
[#41]
Just a cheap kitchen knife. Stainless is junk. I use daily in the garden. I don’t like the thick blade HD for daily use, but the handle is a hair more comfortable. Cheap sharpener from the kitchen works fine. The blue patina is from opening chestnut husks.
 Checked a couple years ago on how to be a dealer. They will sell them to you with a minimum buy of only $300. Decided not to do it cause the margin is too narrow. Might be better on the newer more expensive knives, but you still have to deal with the dirtbags who buy stuff, take it on a trip, then return it. |
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