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Link Posted: 1/23/2022 2:21:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FlatlandBusa] [#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:
If the OP wants me to branch off into a new thread about building kit techniques, please say the word. I thought this thread was kind of about that. (?) @Flatlandbusa

I have a table that I intend to bring into my shack that will be dedicated to the build. It is just a regular 3' x 6' formica topped table with folding metal legs, and unfortunately, the room is carpeted. Am I doomed?

I'll get a good anti-static mat like was linked, and will ground my iron. Do I need to put those anti static things on my shoes, and/or what if I put down one of those plastic chair mats that are supposed to protect rugs? This kind of thing:
http://www.stagecoachdesigns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Plastic-Floor-Mats-for-Office-Chairs.jpg

In browsing the kit instructions, this section on pg 9 (I made bold) gives me pause:

Step 6: Install the Antenna Module Board to the chassis:
A- Mount the Antenna board to the chassis using the remaining 4-40 Nuts (8)
Note: We always send an extra 4-40 screw and nut.
B- Solder the center contacts of the SO239’s and the RCA jacks to the board.
Note: You will have to carefully bend over the RCA jack center contacts to facilitate this solderjoint.


How does one bend these things and what does the bending accomplish?
View Quote


There is a lots of value to have this discussion here!  I'm glad others with more knowledge than me are answering questions!

Bending the center contact gives a much larger surface area to make the solder joint.  


As far as ESD control, I grounded the metal top on my work bench directly to the garage service ground and wore a wrist strap through the entire process.  I also added a ground wire to the soldering iron i used.  If you look closely in the pictures there is one that shows a ground clip to the amplifier chassis while I was working on it.
Link Posted: 1/31/2022 3:29:23 PM EDT
[#2]
As for the Mercury IIIs. I have had mine since Dec 15th 2020.  It has been a great amp, in use nearly every day. Probably 75 percent digital the rest SSB and CW usage. Of course you are limited to the 700 watts on digital. As amplifiers go, the fans are very quiet. The low speed is very quiet, and the high speed that kicks on at 51 degrees C is not bad either. In using SSB the high speed will seldom kick on as unless you are a real motormouth, the amp will never get to 51C in SSB mode. So no worries about sitting right on top of the amp and the amp noise getting into the microphone. As for the amps aesthetics, it is small, lightweight, and beautiful. I am running mine on 120 volts, as that was what I had for the previous amp, a 120 volt 20 amp dedicated receptacle. If I was pulling wire for a new install, I would probably run it on 240 volts. But I used what I already had, and it works great.  I would NOT put it on a 120 volt 15 amp with the rigs power supply though.

The amp has made a tremendous difference in DXing over my stock 7300's and 7610. Highly recommended in my opinion. 73  James K0UA
Link Posted: 1/31/2022 4:09:13 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K0UA:
As for the Mercury IIIs. I have had mine since Dec 15th 2020.  It has been a great amp, in use nearly every day. Probably 75 percent digital the rest SSB and CW usage. Of course you are limited to the 700 watts on digital. As amplifiers go, the fans are very quiet. The low speed is very quiet, and the high speed that kicks on at 51 degrees C is not bad either. In using SSB the high speed will seldom kick on as unless you are a real motormouth, the amp will never get to 51C in SSB mode. So no worries about sitting right on top of the amp and the amp noise getting into the microphone. As for the amps aesthetics, it is small, lightweight, and beautiful. I am running mine on 120 volts, as that was what I had for the previous amp, a 120 volt 20 amp dedicated receptacle. If I was pulling wire for a new install, I would probably run it on 240 volts. But I used what I already had, and it works great.  I would NOT put it on a 120 volt 15 amp with the rigs power supply though.

The amp has made a tremendous difference in DXing over my stock 7300's and 7610. Highly recommended in my opinion. 73  James K0UA
View Quote


Great info!

Can you elaborate a little bit on what you meant by "I would NOT put it on a 120 volt 15 amp with the rigs power supply though."?  I am not very savvy in these matters.
Link Posted: 1/31/2022 5:12:30 PM EDT
[#4]
If you had a room with only a standard 15 amp receptacle and you attempted to run this amp AND your rig, even it it is just one rig even without computers and possible lamps etc, this would NOT be recommended. The breaker at the fuse box would likely trip and the amp would be starved of the current it needs.

I am getting away with running the amp on a 120 volt 20 amp breaker but it is dedicated to JUST this amp. All other parts of the station are run from the original existing receptacle.  But If I was starting over, I would likely run the amp from 240 volts if I had to pull new wire and receptacle.

The only disadvantage of running off of 240 volts is the need for a double breaker in the box. But if your box has the room for that, then this is the way to go if your are starting out and have to run wire anyway.

73  James K0UA
Link Posted: 1/31/2022 5:20:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Ah! Ok, now I follow you. Thanks!
Link Posted: 1/31/2022 5:32:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K0UA:
If you had a room with only a standard 15 amp receptacle and you attempted to run this amp AND your rig, even it it is just one rig even without computers and possible lamps etc, this would NOT be recommended. The breaker at the fuse box would likely trip and the amp would be starved of the current it needs.

I am getting away with running the amp on a 120 volt 20 amp breaker but it is dedicated to JUST this amp. All other parts of the station are run from the original existing receptacle.  But If I was starting over, I would likely run the amp from 240 volts if I had to pull new wire and receptacle.

The only disadvantage of running off of 240 volts is the need for a double breaker in the box. But if your box has the room for that, then this is the way to go if your are starting out and have to run wire anyway.

73  James K0UA
View Quote




sounds spot on.  If you have to add a dedicated circuit then by all means make it 240v.  The difference in cost is the breaker.  The wire isn’t any or much heavier.   I have iirc a 240v 20A dedicated circuit for my metal lathe.  Off the top of my head #12 wire was sufficient but I had #10 on hand and used it.   It’s the amps that dictate the wire size.
Link Posted: 3/26/2022 6:36:39 AM EDT
[#7]
I see that they now offer the option of buying it fully assembled for an upcharge of $300.
Link Posted: 3/26/2022 9:00:27 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:
I see that they now offer the option of buying it fully assembled for an upcharge of $300.
View Quote


Yes, they do, and that will appeal to some. But I would assemble them all day every day for $300.  It just isn't very hard, and once you have done one, it would just get easier. It is mostly just putting together bolts, nuts and spacers.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 1:50:20 AM EDT
[#9]
My free time is worth $300.00, so I would gladly pay.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 7:36:42 AM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By K0UA:
Yes, they do, and that will appeal to some. But I would assemble them all day every day for $300.  It just isn't very hard, and once you have done one, it would just get easier. It is mostly just putting together bolts, nuts and spacers.
View Quote

Originally Posted By K9-Bob:
My free time is worth $300.00, so I would gladly pay.
View Quote


And these are the 2 conflicting viewpoints that I am wrestling with. In the not too distant future, my spot on the waiting list is going to come up and I will be asked to decide which way I want to go.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 8:39:27 AM EDT
[#11]
That $300 also gets you a bit more warranty doesn’t it?  I know it just a year on defects of materials and manufacturing.

The price with or without assembly is quite a deal either way.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 10:00:09 AM EDT
[#12]
As an old retired dude, I have more free time than money. 10 years ago, I might have bought the assembled one for $300 more too.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 11:23:20 AM EDT
[#13]
So this amp can run on 240 or 120. I may have to run it on 120 for a while until I can get an electrician to wire me a new 240v outlet.

With that thought in mind, I note this on the Mercury site: "The only thing we do not ship the C14 type power cord because many electrical outlets are different."

So, I need to get a power cord from someplace (first for 120 and later for 240). To me, the 3-prong power socket looks like what I would find on a random PC or computer monitor.  Is that a correct assessment? If so, assuming no crazy amp draw, can I just use one of the random PC power cords that you end up with after working in IT for a long time? If not, a link or pointer to a more appropriate power cord(s) would be greatly appreciated. I googled, but found the results to be somewhat confusing.

See page 8 for power socket image
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 12:02:41 PM EDT
[#14]
Interesting.  

I had to google it.  Amps are amps so as long as the cord is rated for 15 or 20 amps.

No expert here but I was wondering what the 240 V equivalent is.  I never saw a three prong computer male on the equipment end in 240v.  For my metal lathe I bought an equipment bare ended plug cable to wire the machine instead of hard wiring.  Granger had it on blow out for a few dollars.  Makes me feel better to pull a plug to completely disconnect if I have to do something like replacing a defective starting capacitor.

you have plenty of time to run the circuit.  I would email to see what the recommend for a 240v cable if that is the direction you are going.  For 120 V I cannot see an issue with what you have already.  Personally I would go 240v.  My utility room with the main panel is in the next room to my station, about  15-18’ away.  In the basement I would likely surface mount conduit on the surface.   Sadly my station is away from the shared wall with the utility room, the other side of that wall is not sheet rocked so it would be so easy on that wall.


I too have a box of those and printer cables from ancient retired computers.   I was looking for it as someone gave me a desktop to recycle for my ham station desk.  Took me a few days to find the box!

Link Posted: 3/27/2022 12:31:53 PM EDT
[#15]
The abbreviations below are "NEMA" connector designations.

The C13 to 5-15P cordset is your normal, garden variety electronic cordset. You should have no problem running a Mercury III off of a 15A 120VAC circuit. At power levels approaching 1KW you may need to dedicate the entire circuit. I ran my whole station off of a single 15A 120VAC circuit including a KPA500 amp at 500W, so there's a data point for you.

When and if you move up to 240VAC, either on a 15A or 20A circuit (although if you are installing a new circuit you might as well make it 20A), C13 to 6-15P or 6-20P 240VAC cordsets are a dime a dozen, and are often found in large datacenters. You can easily buy them on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=nema+6-20+to+c13
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 1:01:12 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
The abbreviations below are "NEMA" connector designations.

The C13 to 5-15P cordset is your normal, garden variety electronic cordset. You should have no problem running a Mercury III off of a 15A 120VAC circuit. At power levels approaching 1KW you may need to dedicate the entire circuit. I ran my whole station off of a single 15A 120VAC circuit including a KPA500 amp at 500W, so there's a data point for you.

When and if you move up to 240VAC, either on a 15A or 20A circuit (although if you are installing a new circuit you might as well make it 20A), C13 to 6-15P or 6-20P 240VAC cordsets are a dime a dozen, and are often found in large datacenters. You can easily buy them on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=nema+6-20+to+c13
View Quote



Ah,....there you go, thank you!
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 1:31:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FlatlandBusa] [#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:
So this amp can run on 240 or 120. I may have to run it on 120 for a while until I can get an electrician to wire me a new 240v outlet.

With that thought in mind, I note this on the Mercury site: "The only thing we do not ship the C14 type power cord because many electrical outlets are different."

So, I need to get a power cord from someplace (first for 120 and later for 240). To me, the 3-prong power socket looks like what I would find on a random PC or computer monitor.  Is that a correct assessment? If so, assuming no crazy amp draw, can I just use one of the random PC power cords that you end up with after working in IT for a long time? If not, a link or pointer to a more appropriate power cord(s) would be greatly appreciated. I googled, but found the results to be somewhat confusing.

See page 8 for power socket image
View Quote


I am running my entire station and this amp at 1KW on a dedicated 20 amp circuit that is low pass filtered.  I briefly monitored the station amp draw with a scope, it will reach 18.5 amps on voice peaks with the RF output set at 1.2KW.

Don't use the cheap 18awg cord that came with your computer, get a quality 14awg cord.
The one I used:
https://www.tripplite.com/heavy-duty-computer-power-cord-nema-5-15p-to-iec-320-c13-10-ft~P007010

The low pass filter I am running on the circuit feeding my station:
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/power_products_(electrical)/power_line_filters/roxburgh_1-phase_drive-rated_power_line_emi_-z-_rf_filters/high_performance_mif_series,_3a_-_23a/mif23

Edit: correct power cord link
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 2:08:45 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:


And these are the 2 conflicting viewpoints that I am wrestling with. In the not too distant future, my spot on the waiting list is going to come up and I will be asked to decide which way I want to go.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By Emoto:
Originally Posted By K0UA:
Yes, they do, and that will appeal to some. But I would assemble them all day every day for $300.  It just isn't very hard, and once you have done one, it would just get easier. It is mostly just putting together bolts, nuts and spacers.

Originally Posted By K9-Bob:
My free time is worth $300.00, so I would gladly pay.

And these are the 2 conflicting viewpoints that I am wrestling with. In the not too distant future, my spot on the waiting list is going to come up and I will be asked to decide which way I want to go.

Could send it to me to put together, I need the work
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 2:44:15 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
The abbreviations below are "NEMA" connector designations.

The C13 to 5-15P cordset is your normal, garden variety electronic cordset. You should have no problem running a Mercury III off of a 15A 120VAC circuit. At power levels approaching 1KW you may need to dedicate the entire circuit. I ran my whole station off of a single 15A 120VAC circuit including a KPA500 amp at 500W, so there's a data point for you.

When and if you move up to 240VAC, either on a 15A or 20A circuit (although if you are installing a new circuit you might as well make it 20A), C13 to 6-15P or 6-20P 240VAC cordsets are a dime a dozen, and are often found in large datacenters. You can easily buy them on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=nema+6-20+to+c13
View Quote


Thanks so much for this info!
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 2:49:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Emoto] [#20]
Originally Posted By FlatlandBusa:
I am running my entire station and this amp at 1KW on a dedicated 20 amp circuit that is low pass filtered.  I briefly monitored the station amp draw with a scope, it will reach 18.5 amps on voice peaks with the RF output set at 1.2KW.

Don't use the cheap 18awg cord that came with your computer, get a quality 14awg cord.
The one I used:
https://www.tripplite.com/heavy-duty-power-extension-cord-iec-320-c14-to-iec-320-c13-6-ft~P005006

The low pass filter I am running on the circuit feeding my station:
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/power_products_(electrical)/power_line_filters/roxburgh_1-phase_drive-rated_power_line_emi_-z-_rf_filters/high_performance_mif_series,_3a_-_23a/mif23
View Quote


Wow. Good stuff!

Maybe it is obvious (not to me), but how do you plug that cord into a wall outlet?

Originally Posted By Gamma762:

Could send it to me to put together, I need the work
View Quote


I wouldn't mind, but given the likely cost of shipping, it would probably not be worthwhile. What part of the world are you in? PM ok.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 3:52:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FlatlandBusa] [#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:


Wow. Good stuff!

Maybe it is obvious (not to me), but how do you plug that cord into a wall outlet?

View Quote




I linked the incorrect cord in my prior post, it is correct now.

Link Posted: 3/27/2022 4:10:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FlatlandBusa:
I linked the incorrect cord in my prior post, it is correct now.
View Quote


Link Posted: 3/27/2022 6:16:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: K9-Bob] [#23]
I tried retirement once, but found I ran out of spending money and things to do. At this point in my life I would enjoy building, but unformtunanly there just isn't enough free time. I think $300 is a reasonable amount of money to pay for an assembled amp, but for others it might not be a good option.
Link Posted: 3/27/2022 8:33:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: K0UA] [#24]
This is the one I ordered from Amazon:

Tripp Lite P007-006 Heavy Duty Computer Power Cord, 15A, 14AWG (NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13), 6-ft Black

I run No. 12 wire to dedicated 20 amp breaker in the breaker box. It just feeds this one outlet, a 20 amp rated outlet.  The amp is the only thing plugged in to this outlet. The rigs and accessories all run on another circuit.
Link Posted: 3/28/2022 9:06:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SteelonSteel] [#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K9-Bob:
I tried retirement once, but found I ran out of spending money and things to do. At this point in my life I would enjoy building, but unformtunanly there just isn't enough free time. I think $300 is a reasonable amount of money to pay for an assembled amp, but for others it might not be a good option.
View Quote




Having my soldering experience being just adding connectors on RC Batteries and ESCs plus a few coax connectors I am tempted to spring the $300 to not screw this up! lol.   I know there is limited soldering here, just a few things between boards, the major board work is done.



On the other hand.....personal attention to each soldered connection versus worst case scenario,...MFJ level soldered connection QC.   Yea I know this isn’t MFJ.

+1 on recently retired and there seems to be a mismatch between effective work time on projects and all my big ideas!

I half joke if I get one or two things on my list done today then it was a good day!

This weekend I assembled a small Grizzly band saw I ordered over a month ago.   Cut out some line winders from dollar store cutting boards and wrapped up my home made QRP field dipoles.  Total cost of my homemade dipole antenna not counting the coax feed line, about $10 for wire, winder,  crimp sleeves, and the BNCx 2 banana connector.  Beats $100 store bought! Next antenna to make is a QRP EFHW.  Waiting for some nicer wx for a nice walk and woods test. It is 20 F this morning.    

I was going to blather on more here but I am getting off topic.

Link Posted: 3/28/2022 10:09:36 AM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:




Having my soldering experience being just adding connectors on RC Batteries and ESCs plus a few coax connectors I am tempted to spring the $300 to not screw this up! lol.   I know there is limited soldering here, just a few things between boards, the major board work is done.



On the other hand.....personal attention to each soldered connection versus worst case scenario,...MFJ level soldered connection QC.   Yea I know this isn’t MFJ.

+1 on recently retired and there seems to be a mismatch between effective work time on projects and all my big ideas!

I half joke if I get one or two things on my list done today then it was a good day!

This weekend I assembled a small Grizzly band saw I ordered over a month ago.   Cut out some line winders from dollar store cutting boards and wrapped up my home made QRP field dipoles.  Total cost of my homemade dipole antenna not counting the coax feed line, about $10 for wire, winder,  crimp sleeves, and the BNCx 2 banana connector.  Beats $100 store bought! Next antenna to make is a QRP EFHW.  Waiting for some nicer wx for a nice walk and woods test. It is 20 F this morning.    

I was going to blather on more here but I am getting off topic.

View Quote

Add in some health problems and this sounds like the average HF contact.
Link Posted: 3/28/2022 4:19:00 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By lorazepam:

Add in some health problems and this sounds like the average HF contact.
View Quote



ha, so true!
Link Posted: 3/28/2022 8:50:27 PM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:



ha, so true!
View Quote


The beauty of FT8 and my CW contacts...nobody ever gives their current health status as part of the exchange.
Link Posted: 3/28/2022 9:13:47 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K9-Bob:

The beauty of FT8 and my CW contacts...nobody ever gives their current health status as part of the exchange.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K9-Bob:
Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:
ha, so true!

The beauty of FT8 and my CW contacts...nobody ever gives their current health status as part of the exchange.

K1JT could always add an extra line to the FT8 exchange for a list of medications or something
Link Posted: 3/28/2022 9:58:15 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K9-Bob:


The beauty of FT8 and my CW contacts...nobody ever gives their current health status as part of the exchange.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K9-Bob:
Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:



ha, so true!


The beauty of FT8 and my CW contacts...nobody ever gives their current health status as part of the exchange.



Link Posted: 3/29/2022 8:58:59 AM EDT
[#31]
I'm starting to talk to electricians. Are we thinking that for a 240v socket that a 20A circuit is sufficient? I will also ask the Mercury people.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 9:14:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Mach] [#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:
I'm starting to talk to electricians. Are we thinking that for a 240v socket that a 20A circuit is sufficient? I will also ask the Mercury people.
View Quote


Yes that should be plenty, the plugs used on 240 volt amps generally come with a 20 amp plug.

Current draw on an amp at full legal limit is generally about 12-15 amps dependent on how efficient the amp is.

My SB-220 draws about 15 at 1.5 kw and my ALS-1306 about 10, but that is at about 1.2 kw.


The mercury amp is a very efficient amp, it is all about the power supply efficiency. The tube amp I have is class AB, the solid state is class D


ETA: according to the specs, the mercury amp draws 14 amps at 120volts and 8 amps on 240volts at full power.

https://secureservercdn.net/166.62.112.107/rp7.052.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Assembly-Manual-v5.1.pdf

All the way at the bottom of the document
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 10:19:40 AM EDT
[#33]
Thanks, Mach!

They also responded to my email inquiry with this: The Mercury IIIS draws about 8 amps at 220v.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 12:25:49 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:
I'm starting to talk to electricians. Are we thinking that for a 240v socket that a 20A circuit is sufficient? I will also ask the Mercury people.
View Quote


Yes. that would be fine and the dandy.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 12:36:58 PM EDT
[#35]
If the regular 120v outlets are called NEMA 5-15P, what are the 240v sockets called?
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 1:01:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aa777888-2] [#36]
I can't let this one pass without ragging you for being lazy...let me Google that for you:

https://www.americord.com/nema-charts

A non-locking receptacle for 240VAC 20A is a 6-20R, for 30A a 6-30R.

You can also specify a twistlock receptacle, the chart for those is at the same link. It's just an L in front of the part number.

20A will be more than enough. All legal limit, 1500W amp's I know use less than that. My KPA1500 is running off of a 240VAC 20A circuit no problem.


Link Posted: 3/29/2022 1:03:36 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:
If the regular 120v outlets are called NEMA 5-15P, what are the 240v sockets called?
View Quote



There are hundreds of different ones.

A simple one would be a NEMA 6-20    This would be a straight plug in (not a twistlock) 20 amp 240 volt receptacle.

You should be able to find these at any box store.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 6:11:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Emoto] [#38]
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
I can't let this one pass without ragging you for being lazy...let me Google that for you:

https://www.americord.com/nema-charts

A non-locking receptacle for 240VAC 20A is a 6-20R, for 30A a 6-30R.

You can also specify a twistlock receptacle, the chart for those is at the same link. It's just an L in front of the part number.

20A will be more than enough. All legal limit, 1500W amp's I know use less than that. My KPA1500 is running off of a 240VAC 20A circuit no problem.
View Quote


Little did you know, that I did google, and found a whole giant assortment. More than you can shake a stick at. What I couldn't figure out was which were the most common ones that one is likely to encounter.

Originally Posted By K0UA:
There are hundreds of different ones.

A simple one would be a NEMA 6-20    This would be a straight plug in (not a twistlock) 20 amp 240 volt receptacle.

You should be able to find these at any box store.
View Quote


Yes, I looked at LOTS of them online.

--

So... most of the electricians in my area are flat out. Some so far that they don't feel able to take any new customers. I had some conversations over the last few days, and many who didn't answer, I left messages for, and didn't respond (yet, anyway).

Then I asked for recommendations on a FB page for my town, and got several. One of them (who several people recommended) called me back almost immediately and we had a nice conversation. He had guys on a truck who were free this afternoon if I wanted them to come out and provide an estimate and if I like it, do the work today. I said yes. They did. I did. And they did the work! Today. All done.

But wait, there's more (Sorry John for all the OT)... the main panel where the power comes into the house is in an addition. A line runs from there to a sub-panel in the original house with the rest of the breakers.  The main panel was tiny. It was stuffed full and there was no space for another pair of breakers to facilitate the new 240v dedicated circuit that I wanted. There was not space for anything at all. It was STUFFED.

So, what this meant was upgrading the panel itself, which was on my list of things to do someday. A price was offered and it was fine, so they went off to the supply house to grab the new panel so they could do the work. They were back in less than an hour and did a really nice job. I have my new outlet and a new panel that has a little room to expand should I ever need it, and an electrical company who left me cards because they want business.

I believe it is... drum roll, please...

a 6-20R? (P?)
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 8:21:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: aa777888-2] [#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:Little did you know, that I did google, and found a whole giant assortment. More than you can shake a stick at. What I couldn't figure out was which were the most common ones that one is likely to encounter.
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Originally Posted By Emoto:Little did you know, that I did google, and found a whole giant assortment. More than you can shake a stick at. What I couldn't figure out was which were the most common ones that one is likely to encounter.
What perhaps you didn't know is that it doesn't work that way. There were literally only a very few it could be, per the National Electrical Code.

First, you were provisioning a 3 wire circuit since the back of the amp is provisioned with a 3 wire, C14 receptacle which mates with 3 wire C13 plug. Combine that with 240VAC and that filters things down to only the "6" row.

Second, you knew it would be a 20A or 30A circuit, so that restricts you to the "20" and "30" columns. And once you decide on whether it's a 20A or 30A circuit, just that single column. This is because you are not allowed to use a higher rated receptacle, i.e. you can't use a 30A receptacle on a 20A circuit because you might accidentally plug in a 30A device on a 20A circuit, etc. And of course you certainly can't use an under-rated receptacle.

Finally, once you decided on an 240VAC 20A circuit, the only allowable choices are two: 6-20R, or L6-20R. That's it. Locking or not locking.

So it's not a matter of more than you can shake a stick at. After accounting for voltage, wire count and current, at the end of the day it always comes down to just two: locking or not locking.

I believe it is... drum roll, please...a 6-20R?
Correct!
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 9:15:31 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Emoto:


Little did you know, that I did google, and found a whole giant assortment. More than you can shake a stick at. What I couldn't figure out was which were the most common ones that one is likely to encounter.



Yes, I looked at LOTS of them online.

--

So... most of the electricians in my area are flat out. Some so far that they don't feel able to take any new customers. I had some conversations over the last few days, and many who didn't answer, I left messages for, and didn't respond (yet, anyway).

Then I asked for recommendations on a FB page for my town, and got several. One of them (who several people recommended) called me back almost immediately and we had a nice conversation. He had guys on a truck who were free this afternoon if I wanted them to come out and provide an estimate and if I like it, do the work today. I said yes. They did. I did. And they did the work! Today. All done.

But wait, there's more (Sorry John for all the OT)... the main panel where the power comes into the house is in an addition. A line runs from there to a sub-panel in the original house with the rest of the breakers.  The main panel was tiny. It was stuffed full and there was no space for another pair of breakers to facilitate the new 240v dedicated circuit that I wanted. There was not space for anything at all. It was STUFFED.

So, what this meant was upgrading the panel itself, which was on my list of things to do someday. A price was offered and it was fine, so they went off to the supply house to grab the new panel so they could do the work. They were back in less than an hour and did a really nice job. I have my new outlet and a new panel that has a little room to expand should I ever need it, and an electrical company who left me cards because they want business.

I believe it is... drum roll, please...
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GDw9QjQ/0/e64de0f0/L/i-GDw9QjQ-L.jpg
a 6-20R? (P?)
View Quote


So, did they leave you the matching plug so you could put it on the end of your cord?
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 9:21:26 PM EDT
[#41]
Also notice if you had the 15 amp rated plug, it would fit into your 20 amp rated receptacle also.  Breakers protect the wiring not the device. So if the electricians ran wire rated at 20 amps and put in the 20 amp receptacle, and a 20 amp breaker in the box, you can also run a 15 amp device with a 15 amp plug and plug it into your 20 amp rated receptacle. The 15 amp plug looks different (two horizontal blades) but it will also fit as will the 20 amp plug with a horizontal and a vertical blade.

This post is NOT to confuse you even further, but just some extra info, you probably didn't need.
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 9:27:30 PM EDT
[#42]
Here is a premade 6-20P plug to the C13 end that goes into the mercury 3s on Amazon for 10 bucks

6-20P to C13 end

Link Posted: 3/29/2022 9:41:05 PM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
What perhaps you didn't know is that it doesn't work that way. There were literally only a very few it could be, per the National Electrical Code.

First, you were provisioning a 3 wire circuit since the back of the amp is provisioned with a 3 wire, C14 receptacle which mates with 3 wire C13 plug. Combine that with 240VAC and that filters things down to only the "6" row.

Second, you knew it would be a 20A or 30A circuit, so that restricts you to the "20" and "30" columns. And once you decide on whether it's a 20A or 30A circuit, just that single column. This is because you are not allowed to use a higher rated receptacle, i.e. you can't use a 30A receptacle on a 20A circuit because you might accidentally plug in a 30A device on a 20A circuit, etc. And of course you certainly can't use an under-rated receptacle.

Finally, once you decided on an 240VAC 20A circuit, the only allowable choices are two: 6-20R, or L6-20R. That's it. Locking or not locking.

So it's not a matter of more than you can shake a stick at. After accounting for voltage, wire count and current, at the end of the day it always comes down to just two: locking or not locking.

Correct!
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
What perhaps you didn't know is that it doesn't work that way. There were literally only a very few it could be, per the National Electrical Code.

First, you were provisioning a 3 wire circuit since the back of the amp is provisioned with a 3 wire, C14 receptacle which mates with 3 wire C13 plug. Combine that with 240VAC and that filters things down to only the "6" row.

Second, you knew it would be a 20A or 30A circuit, so that restricts you to the "20" and "30" columns. And once you decide on whether it's a 20A or 30A circuit, just that single column. This is because you are not allowed to use a higher rated receptacle, i.e. you can't use a 30A receptacle on a 20A circuit because you might accidentally plug in a 30A device on a 20A circuit, etc. And of course you certainly can't use an under-rated receptacle.

Finally, once you decided on an 240VAC 20A circuit, the only allowable choices are two: 6-20R, or L6-20R. That's it. Locking or not locking.

So it's not a matter of more than you can shake a stick at. After accounting for voltage, wire count and current, at the end of the day it always comes down to just two: locking or not locking.

Correct!


Ah! Thank you for that very logical and ordered explanation of how to arrive at the right place. Very cool.

Originally Posted By K0UA:
So, did they leave you the matching plug so you could put it on the end of your cord?


Negatory.

I was delighted to get all the work I needed done RIGHT NOW, so I didn't press it.

Originally Posted By K0UA:
Also notice if you had the 15 amp rated plug, it would fit into your 20 amp rated receptacle also.  Breakers protect the wiring not the device. So if the electricians ran wire rated at 20 amps and put in the 20 amp receptacle, and a 20 amp breaker in the box, you can also run a 15 amp device with a 15 amp plug and plug it into your 20 amp rated receptacle. The 15 amp plug looks different (two horizontal blades) but it will also fit as will the 20 amp plug with a horizontal and a vertical blade.

This post is NOT to confuse you even further, but just some extra info, you probably didn't need.


But it is good info and matches some of what I have read while trying to figure it all out. Thanks.

Originally Posted By K0UA:
Here is a premade 6-20P plug to the C13 end that goes into the mercury 3s on Amazon for 10 bucks

6-20P to C13 end



Excellent. Thanks!
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 9:41:06 PM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K0UA:
Here is a premade 6-20P plug to the C13 end that goes into the mercury 3s on Amazon for 10 bucks

6-20P to C13 end

View Quote

14AWG wire per the question/answer section, which is excellent.

This did get covered already earlier in the thread. By yourself, even. Guess you forgot
Link Posted: 3/29/2022 10:20:08 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By K0UA:
Here is a premade 6-20P plug to the C13 end that goes into the mercury 3s on Amazon for 10 bucks

6-20P to C13 end

View Quote


I would be cautious of anything from Amazon, lots of the merchandise is knockoffs of inferior quality and wire gauges that are not the same as printed in the jacket.
Link Posted: 3/30/2022 6:19:03 AM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By FlatlandBusa:


I would be cautious of anything from Amazon, lots of the merchandise is knockoffs of inferior quality and wire gauges that are not the same as printed in the jacket.
View Quote


Amazon is the vender of last resort for me, due to AWS de-platforming sites with conservative views. I should be able to find name brand cords elsewhere. Amazon is good for finding products and seeing reviews, then buying elsewhere.
Link Posted: 3/30/2022 1:15:47 PM EDT
[#47]
I found a place in Connecticut that sells all kinds of cords and cables, and I think (but am not 100% sure) that they make some part(s) of them on site. I should have the power cords that I bought in-hand next week, and will report back on them good or bad, along with the company name and web site. I will say that they respond to emails and are nice and knowledgeable on the phone.
Link Posted: 3/30/2022 1:39:08 PM EDT
[#48]
You are making this too difficult. Just head down to your local electrical supply place. The real one, where the contractors buy their stuff. Bring a photo of the connector on the back of the amp, and a photo of the wall receptacle, and ask for help. They should have plenty of parts for you to take home.
Link Posted: 3/30/2022 1:43:51 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
You are making this too difficult. Just head down to your local electrical supply place. The real one, where the contractors buy their stuff. Bring a photo of the connector on the back of the amp, and a photo of the wall receptacle, and ask for help. They should have plenty of parts for you to take home.
View Quote


I am the King of overcomplication!
Link Posted: 3/30/2022 2:14:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Mach] [#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By aa777888-2:
You are making this too difficult. Just head down to your local electrical supply place. The real one, where the contractors buy their stuff. Bring a photo of the connector on the back of the amp, and a photo of the wall receptacle, and ask for help. They should have plenty of parts for you to take home.
View Quote


or do like I did, go to home depot without pics, buy a couple of them because I could not remember what it looked like, and then forget to return the other one that isnt right.

Now I have a drier cord I have no use for.
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