Wearing fleece a lot, and sometimes being caught in the snow/freezing rain, can be a hassle.  Most fleece garments will not absorb water into their fibers, but will allow water to penetrate, and so soak the user.

I've tried this stiff on a few fleece garments, and it actually seems to help shed light precip.  Certainly will NOT make your fleece jacket into a raincoat, but it's a definite help.

https://www.nikwax.com/en-us/products/productdetail.php?productid=739&itemid=-1&fabricid=-1   Disclaimer: no financial interest.

I suspect that the tighter the outer/surface weave of the fleece garment, the better this will work.  Many modern fleece garments are made so, at least to avoid "pilling" of the fleece on the outside.

Note that the instructions for this compound are to wash the garment, and rinse twice before application.  I STRONGLY suggest Woolite, as it contains no "optical brighteners" which serve to make one's  garments, of any type, more observable to Night Observation Devices, and possibly to game animals.

Submitted for consideration.

Post pictures.

I've got some softshell proof from Nikwax I need to use on a softshell jacket (Polartec air02 or something - hard outer surface with air membrain and high loft interior - great for me since I sweat easily). It's only about a year old so still doing okay in water resistance.

Polartec used to make windpro with a hardface which was some kind of coating and that to me was the best fleece ever since it blocks most wind. Coating provided water resistance. I have an REI fleece that is 5 years old or more and the coating is still good. I've only seen windpro on the Arcteryx Naga pullover these days.

Neh, posting pics would reveal little; too many variables.  Softshell stuff is perhaps different from Polar wash (fleece) stuff, as mentioned.  Different purposes, perhaps.  Got all the softshell/GoreTex stuff already, and am familiar with such.  The treating of fleece is something new to me, although perhaps not unfamiliar with more advanced users than myself.

I have some fleece items, from Duluth, which claim to incorporate a "windproof" and breathable membrane.  So far, seems like the claim is substantiated.  Fairly windproof, compared to ordinary fleece.   I assume the "membrane" needs to be treated like similar Gore-Tex membrane, which is another topic.  One with which I am familiar.

All I can say is that treated fleece allows me to get less wet than untreated fleece.  A LOT less wet, in soft rain, and a little less wet than driving rain.  After driving rain exposure, when in shelter, the fleece can be shaken-off, and dry almost instantly.  Far faster than untreated fleece, which is fairly quick.  Big difference, IMHO.  Spending my own $ on treating all my fleece items, FWIW, and YMMV.

Disclaimer: no financial interest.

I agree with what you are saying and Nikwax has a great reputation for restoring DWR. I just haven't used the soft proof or whatever I have but intend to and think it does the same thing, makes water bead on the surface.

The windproof membranes shouldn't need treatment, I think most are just perforated polyurethane so they breathe, but just guessing on what I've read.  Not counting windstopper which I also never liked because I sweat too easily as I said.

Gore-Tex, and like membranes, need nothing more than to be properly laundered, with approved detergents, and then the outer shell sprayed-down with DWR.  Spraying a dirty, clogged GT membrane  (Undetectable for the average person) with expensive DWR will likely do nothing.  BTDT.

Most complaints about Gore-Tex are likely due to users not giving the garments the care that such garments require.  Follow the laundering recommendations supplied by the MFR, and only then spray with DWR.

Most folks have not gotten this simple, but essential, process through their heads.  I've "revived' many GT garments through proper laundering/cleaning, and subsequent spraying with DWR.  The original owners call me a magician, but I just read the laundering instructions, and followed them to the letter.

YMMV.

Nikwax products are excellent and this might be fine for casual use, but I have been cold and wet in the woods.  Unpleasant and dangerous.

I would never count on what keeps me warm to also keep me dry.  Two different things best dealt with separately.

Spend a little and you can fit a quality rain jacket in a quart freezer bag.  Spend a lot of money and you can get one to fit in a sandwich bag.

Agree with all you've said.  Suggestion above was intended to help people make some garments water-resistant, which is no substitute for a water-proof garment.

Interesting.

I don't own any high end fleece garments so I wonder what would happen if sprayed one down with a cheaper generic fabric DWR treatment?  I imagine it would be ruined by one wash cycle.

Oh, and +1 on the proper washing and detergent for gortex or similar membranes.  Most of my gortex or similar stuff is all hunting our outdoor specific gear so I just don't wash them.  If they get really dirty I will hose them off with water only and let them air dry.  I have an LLbean soft shell coat that I have used for several outings each year for well over a decade and, while not a rain coat it is still very water resistant and will breath, and keep me dry in very inclement weather rain or snow.

Gore-Tex (and similar) typically fails to work, as advertised because either the DWR has become inactive and/or the garment has been laundered with a detergent that has managed to clog the pores in the membrane.   If that wasn't bad enough, it has been claimed that many typical laundry detergents contain "optical brighteners" which can cause your clothing/gear to "glow" when illuminated by lights used in most NVG items, and possibly cause it to be more "observable" by some animal eyes.  It should be noted that Natick now claims "no difference" in NVG visibility for clothing treated using detergents containing "optical Brighteners".  Note that this claim says nothing about the eyes of game animals.  For washing non-GT, simple clothing, uniforms, and gear, then use simple, plain old Woolite.  Be careful, there are different formulations, some of which apparently have "optical brighteners".  YMMV.

Link to Natick statement; read down: https://www.armytimes.com/news/your-army/2015/08/22/caring-for-your-new-acus-dos-don-ts-and-myths/

For washing non-GT hats, it might be best to use simple, non-scented, basic, hair shampoo.  It's designed to remove hair oils, right?  Apply directly to both sides of heavy staining, and work-in the detergent/shampoo with your finger.  L et sit for a while, and let the stuff work-in and do its' magic.  A trick I've used with hats is to use plenty of detergent in WARM--not hot-- water, and let them soak for a few hours, agitating by hand every so often;  Work the detergent/water in and out of the stained areas, dissolving the oils.  Air dry the hats, and apply water repellant, if desired.

Quite often, simple dirt and body oils can have a negative effect on the membrane.  In general, the cleaner the GT is, and the fresher the DWR, the better the GT will work.  A "trick" to "rejuvenate" DWR that is beginning to show signs of wearing-off is to put the garment(s) in a clothes dryer, and heat them up a bit.

From Gore-Tex site:  "Line dry your garment, or tumble dry it on a warm, gentle cycle. Once it's dry, tumble dry the garment for 20 minutes to reactivate the durable water repellent (DWR) treatment on the outer fabric. You can do this anytime you notice the water repellency needs a boost."

It's always a wise idea to use a detergent specifically intended for GT membranes, and to rinse the garment at least twice to remove all traces of it, and to help in unclogging the pores in the membrane.  This procedure has worked well for me in rehabilitating GT garments which the user thought worn-out. The idea of hosing-down GT garments with simple water will do no harm, but eventually the garments will need laundering, hence this post.

I'm sure many people here already know all this; just posting for the benefit of those who don't.  Sorry for being a bit wordy.