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Posted: 1/13/2021 4:09:23 PM EDT
We have multiple out buildings on the property, 7 or so.  I am in the process of re-siding the barn with metal siding.  It seems to be turning into an expensive project for a barn.  I would like to look at re-siding a couple other buildings this summer also.  The shop is about 20x40. I would like to insulate it, sometime in the future.  The other shed is maybe 10x20.  The shed will strictly serve as storage for garden / landscape tools for my wife.  Really, I just need to keep wasps and critters out of the shed.  They are both covered in deteriorating wood siding right now.  I should add that we are based in MI.  We don't have super bad winters, but we do get some snow.

What would be the most cost effective siding for these types of buildings?  Is T1-11 the only option?  Can I put new wood siding over old wood siding?  Do I need to add a house wrap?
Link Posted: 1/13/2021 4:40:22 PM EDT
[#1]
you don't really need to use a wrap (weather resistant barrier) unless you are going to insulate and try to heat or cool it.
You should still overlap and flash everything so water runs down and out.

If you put good siding on rotten siding, it will eventually rot too. If it's dry and stable, you could go over it.

Link Posted: 1/13/2021 6:21:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Find someone that buys siding material by the roll, and forms it themselves.  They can cut it to your exact length.   Bubble wrap insulation is cheap, and it will keep the roof from dripping with condensation after the ground inside the building gets cold, and the air gets warm and humid.  Also, if you get the white bubble wrap, it helps a lot with the lighting.
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 3:13:40 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
Find someone that buys siding material by the roll, and forms it themselves.  They can cut it to your exact length.   Bubble wrap insulation is cheap, and it will keep the roof from dripping with condensation after the ground inside the building gets cold, and the air gets warm and humid.  Also, if you get the white bubble wrap, it helps a lot with the lighting.
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So does the bubble wrap insulation go between the studs and the exterior siding?
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 3:20:08 PM EDT
[#4]
hardy plank and foam insulation
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 3:37:05 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:



So does the bubble wrap insulation go between the studs and the exterior siding?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Find someone that buys siding material by the roll, and forms it themselves.  They can cut it to your exact length.   Bubble wrap insulation is cheap, and it will keep the roof from dripping with condensation after the ground inside the building gets cold, and the air gets warm and humid.  Also, if you get the white bubble wrap, it helps a lot with the lighting.



So does the bubble wrap insulation go between the studs and the exterior siding?


Yes.
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 3:42:38 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
hardy plank and foam insulation
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My neighbor had his hangar insulated with foam.  An unexpected down side of it is that it turned it into an echo chamber.  The acoustics are so bad, it's hard to have a conversation unless your standing close together.  Forget about enjoying some music while you work.
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 3:59:02 PM EDT
[#7]
that is very oddm we have been using open cell foam around here since 98 and it deadens sound
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 4:13:55 PM EDT
[#8]
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that is very oddm we have been using open cell foam around here since 98 and it deadens sound
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I was surprised.  It's not covered with anything, and the sprayed the roof, too.  Maybe it's because they laid it on thick.  You can't see the girts or purlins at all.
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 4:29:58 PM EDT
[#9]
they spray the bottom of the roof in metal buildings here just for that
Link Posted: 1/14/2021 10:37:44 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
they spray the bottom of the roof in metal buildings here just for that
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The bottom of the roof is sprayed.  No idea.  We had a get-together in there with about ten people, and it was unbearable.  We had to open the hangar door to kill the echo.  It was a cacophony of voices.
Link Posted: 1/15/2021 10:33:38 AM EDT
[#11]
Rough cut 1x has lasted 30 + years on my grand daddy's barn. Wood id great just need good roof over hang to keep water off. You could go 4 ft up with tin to give it extra water proof zone. It's funny to see everyone looking super new high tech materials when low tech barns lasting 100 years or more.
Link Posted: 1/15/2021 12:26:06 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
Rough cut 1x has lasted 30 + years on my grand daddy's barn. Wood id great just need good roof over hang to keep water off. You could go 4 ft up with tin to give it extra water proof zone. It's funny to see everyone looking super new high tech materials when low tech barns lasting 100 years or more.
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Wood would probably be MUCH more expensive.  Especially now.
Link Posted: 1/15/2021 2:12:38 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:


Wood would probably be MUCH more expensive.  Especially now.
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20+ acres of pine and a woodmizer here.

my 14x24 barn is going to cost me 9 PT 6x6x12 and metal roofing and however many nails I need. Thats it.
Link Posted: 1/15/2021 2:15:59 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:



20+ acres of pine and a woodmizer here.

my 14x24 barn is going to cost me 9 PT 6x6x12 and metal roofing and however many nails I need. Thats it.
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Quoted:
Quoted:


Wood would probably be MUCH more expensive.  Especially now.



20+ acres of pine and a woodmizer here.

my 14x24 barn is going to cost me 9 PT 6x6x12 and metal roofing and however many nails I need. Thats it.


20 acres costs a LOT more that metal siding.  
Link Posted: 1/15/2021 9:50:52 PM EDT
[#15]
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20 acres costs a LOT more that metal siding.  
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the 20 acres was purchased a long time before the mill
Link Posted: 1/17/2021 10:03:14 PM EDT
[#16]
I was looking through my materials for the barn, I might have enough left to start covering the shop.  So if I could get more of the same metal sheets, at a decent price, I will just go that route.

Right now, I should have enough to cover the one side with the garage door, and partially cover the ends.

With metal siding, could I just house wrap over the old wood siding, add ribs to attach the metal to, and call it good?



Also, any advice with oxidized/ rusted galvanized roof?  The same shop has one side of the roof that is badly oxidized.  There are no visible holes.  Are there products to stop the rust and make it paintable?
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